every nation, decked in their various colors,) had these colors waving over it, while the bells were ringing a loud peal, and the gondolas, with their colored awnings, were driving about in every direction. My arrival and its agony have been already told; but as I said in my greatest paroxysm of disappointment, so now I say it was all for the best. Had I gone by steam, I had omitted to purchase several comforts indispensable in Asia, and not to be had there; and now I have them all for about fourteen dollars, and besides, save half the sum of the steam-ship, and yet have one of the most magnificent ships in the port. Surely I have said this is the hand of my Heavenly Father, who, from 'seeming evil, still educes good ;' besides they all tell me, that owing to the stoppage of the steamship, I shall arrive first in Alexandria. This is yet to be seen,' my times are in his hands.' Oh! how I have felt the comfort of my religion, and of that better light which has dawned upon America, and for which we never can be sufficiently grateful. Base and deplorable is the ignorance of the common people on these most interesting of all subjects, and even the more intelligent, who wink at follies which their reason revolts at, how sad to see them upholding a system which robs religion of her soul, and leaves but a poor external decked out in fantastic colors of a harlequin, and exhibiting such childish fooleries as, while it attracts the vulgar, disgusts even some of these, and are a derision to the intelligent.

"Alas! to see the procession of bishops, priests, and deacons, women and children, with their motley crew; some bearing gilt maces, some flowers on sticks, and then, what they call the penitent dresses,

as if ready to be laid in the grave, with shrouds through which you see twinkling a pair of eyes not always looking very penitent: to hear the drums beating, the bells ringing-as we ring for fire-the cafés crowded with tiplers, genteel and ungenteel, of all sexes and sizes; duets singing in the street, some on foot, and some in little low carriages; then when the procession enters the fort where the Madonna resides, to hear the several discharges of cannon. Well, thinks I, if this is religion, I know nothing about it: certainly I am a heathen or a heretic, or whatever else you please to call me. I retired to my room sickened by the sight, and after prayer, laid my wearied head to rest, where steamboats and processions were soon forgotten; and I awoke in the morning refreshed and invigoratedthese latter much promoted also by a bath which I previously took. And, now my unwearied friend, Sampon de Mola, has been with me making my little purchases, and obtaining them better and cheaper than I could.

"I wish you could see me in my travelling dress, a green frock-coat, cross-barred pantaloons of brown and gray stripes, and my straw hat tied under the chin, a narrow band of crape for my dearest mother, and, alas! I fear for my beloved and much beloved father. A little tea, and a few bottles of prepared lemonade, completed my equipment, and I want no more but camels and a guide when I pass the desert, and my feet stand upon the holiest of earth's places. And now, adieu! unless to-morrow, at the latest hour of closing, there should be something still to say; to be sure I could fill my paper very soon with sentiment, but you wish a traveller's notes, and so I give you such as I think you will

value most-adieu till to-morrow. I have just been around my ship, or rather brig. She is a fine new French vessel, having made, as yet, but one trip. I have chosen my berth, as before in the Siddons, it is next to the captain's, but of course not so large or genteel; yet there, I doubt not, I can sleep as sound as I could in a palace. We do not start till the day after to-morrow (25th). I have been to Mr. Croxall's, where I found an American captain, ready to sail to-morrow, and he has promised to take my letter, and a little view of some of those places I have passed in my route, and which will give you a better idea than I have done, though certainly I cannot say this of Grenoble, where the high Alps are not faithfully represented, nor the beautiful panorama of the low lying city, and its beautiful river Isere."

CHAPTER VII.

Alexandria-Harbor, shipping, and inhabitants-Change of route-Celebration of divine service-Alexandria as a missionary station-Health of the city-Facilities for acquiring the Oriental languages-Statistics of the plague from January to July, 1840.

We are without information in regard to the date of Dr. Bayard's arrival at Alexandria in Egypt, for which place, as noticed in the journal, he sailed from Marseilles on the 25th of June, 1840. His journals, indeed, preserve no record of his travels and engagements, until the day of his arrival at Jaffa by a steam vessel from Beyrout, to which latter port he had proceeded direct from Alexandria. The following extract, however, from a communication forwarded from Alexandria to the editor of the Churchman, gives an interesting and sufficiently minute account of his sojourn in that city, and of the impressions there received.

"I was prepared to find in Alexandria every thing that was disagreeable and downright uncomfortable, with nothing to interest me; but to my great surprise I found, on approaching it, a fine harbor filled with shipping, and a city of some one hundred thousand inhabitants, principally Turks and Arabs, but of at least ten other varieties of the human family. The Turk, Arab, and Greek part of the city presents rather a miserable exhibition of architectural convenience; but that part which is occupied by the Franks (Europeans) has a fine large square of well built houses, presenting every comfort that a man could reasonably wish. I am hospitably lodged in the room of a fellow-citizen, who most

kindly has insisted on my sojourn with him while here, and being well acquainted with every thing by a residence of two years in the place, I am at once shown all I could expect or wish. Truly, my dear sir, our travellers have either not given a fair account of this place from having spent but little time in it, or I have been singularly fortunate not to meet with nuisances, many and great, which I was taught to expect as soon as I touched the land of the Pharaohs. I can easily perceive how troubles can be accumulated upon the head of an unfortunate traveller, who, ignorant of language, manners, or customs, finds himself in the midst of difficulties and discomforts, not obtaining access to the regions where they may be quickly dissipated by the intervention of a friend who is there at home; such a kind allotment has been my portion, so that I have scarcely felt myself in a foreign land, until mixing in the crowded narrow streets, my eyes were presented with the picturesque and grotesque multitudes of almost every nation. It was my first intention to proceed straight to Cairo, and cross the desert to Jerusalem; but finding I should have a long quarantine to make at a place in the desert bordering on the Holy Land, and that the heat was so excessive as to kill two persons of the very few who had ventured, I chose the other route by sea to Beyrout, and consented to give up Cairo and the pyramids, at least for the present. Though it was Saturday when I arrived, notice was sent to the Church people, and an invitation to perform divine service and preach was given me; and accordingly on Sunday a congregation of between sixty and seventy were in attendance, and the responses, with singing, were duly made. The chapel is a neat,