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tuations in the inclosures between the higher and the lower roads.
Those who wish to see this lake from the higher grounds, may skirt the boundary of the inclosures from the common gate, or ascend the common between Bampton and that gate, from which they may observe all the interesting changes in the elegant scenery of this little aquatic paradise, in a more desirable line than from any other beaten path.
Haws Water. No. Twenty-five.
Commands a view of the upper and lower reaches of the lake, with the wooded promontory stretching far into it, and at its head a few stripes of the inclosed ground at Mardale, with the rugged banks on the east and west rising abruptly from the water. In distance Riggendale appears, and over it the high lands separating Kentmere and Mardale. This view is from the path upon the common, and near its first edging the inclosures.
By stepping occasionally into the fields on the left, between the last point and Fordingdale Beck, several fine views may be obtained of the head of the lake: No. 59 in the small etchings is one of them. In this scene, part of Harter Fell appears beyond Naddle Fell, by which, from the former stand, it was wholly hidden. Here, as in the other view, is the
projecting land separating the upper and the lower waters.
Perhaps the grandest assemblage of mountain lines seen in connection with the lake, is that presented to the spectator on his having ascended from Fordingdale Beck, in his progress towards the water's head.
Harter Fell is here the principal object; under which is the lower end of Riggendale, and at its foot, Chapel Hill, in Mardale, with all its pleasant accompaniments of wood. This view is exclusively of the upper lake, and is No. 60 of the small etchings.
From the inclosures somewhat nearer the head of the lake, the views towards the foot are replete with beauty, and highly in contrast to the bold features at the Mardale end of the valley. The woody promontory is here again interesting: from some points it appears like Curwen Island on Windermere. Wallow Crag, a rocky precipice, softened by trees, has some resemblance to that part of Furness Fell which rises above the Station House, and this aspect of Haws Water has altogether more likeness to the southern end of Windermere from Troutbeck, than any other scene among the lakes.
The upper road joins the lower road about half a mile from the head of the lake, from which junction it is about a mile and a half to Chapel Hill, in Mardale.
Chapel Hill consists of three houses, one recently built by Mr. Richard Holme, in which he now resides: Mr. Holme is brother to the Rev. William Holme, of Emanuel College, Cambridge. The late Mr. John Holme, father of the above gentleman, was a most respectable and intelligent man. Mr. Holme, with much kindness, occasionally received travellers in his house to eat and to lodge, there being no puplic-house nearer Haws Water than Bampton, which is six miles from Chapel Hill, and two from the foot of the lake.
An ancestor of the family of Holme settled anciently in these parts, and the Holmes of Mardale have lived here ever since the reign of King John.
Riggendale stretches in a craggy descent, with a ridge as sharp as the back of a deserted racer, from High Street down to the bridge between Chapel Hill and Mardale Green. Riggendale probably gave name to Mardale, though it divides the vale of desolation from that of fertility; for between Riggendale and the lake the river passes, in many a sportive curve, through level but well cultivated lands. These flats are succeeded by easy undulations and rocky knolls, over which the native trees are scattered with a bewitching wildness, while others travel high up the rugged steeps towards the summits of the circumjacent mountains.
Mr. West says, "above the chapel is all hopeless waste. The little vale contracts into a
deep glen, strewed with the precipitated ruins of mouldering mountains, and the destruction of perpetual water falls."
From Ambleside there are two mountain roads to Haws Water, one by Stock Gill Force, the Lower and Middle Groves, Wound Hill, the Troutbeck Hundreds, High Street, and down Riggendale to Chapel Hill, in Mardale.
The other road is through Troutbeck and Kentmere. One way to Troutbeck is by Low Wood Inn; the other by High Skelgill. Troutbeck Church stands on the banks of the river below the village, and there is a road into Kentmere from a Bridge near the church over Applethwaite Common. The descent into Kentmere is amidst huge stones which have been tumbled from the mountain. At the bottom of this hill, upon the right, stands Kentmere Hall, the ancient family seat of the Gilpin's. Here was born in the year 1517, that eminent preacher Bernard Gilpin, who possessed extraordinary energies of mind, was a man of sound and extensive learning, and whose labours for the present comfort and future happiness of mankind have rarely been equalled.
"The Hall," (says Burn), "is an old building with a tower, standing under a vast craggy mountain." It is accompanied by Sycamores and other trees in abundance, which, with the 66 vast craggy mountain" above, is an excellent study for those in search of the picturesque.