other competitors, for accuracy, neatness, and ngenuity. A defign of his, which gained the prize-medal, represents a gallery for a palace, with all its proper architectural ornaments and furniture: ftatues in niches, pedestals, fountains, pictures, &c. many of which he had made choice of to ornament his gallery, from drawings now at Rome, from whence this defign was fent. Hẹ has difpofed of these neat sketches with great judgment, in an excellent tafte.

Against the wall in the fame room is fixed a piece of coarse painting in fresco, its shape irregular, having been defaced in recovering it from amongst the ruins of Velleia. It is curious, and seems to reprefent a garden ornamented in the Chinese tafte; terraffes furmounted with balluftrades, and flower-pots upon them, with gravelwalks, are plainly to be diftinguished. There is also a plan of Velleia, that is, what it appears to have been, as near as they could judge, after the late excavations, which have been difcontinued ever since the year 1764; the present Infant and Monfieur Tillot, his minifter, not choofing the farther expence of carrying on that work.

They fhew strangers two tables of bronze found at Velleia; not unworthy the infpection of the: curious. One contains, in a fmall character, but extremely legible, the names of the principal places belonging to the country of the Vellei, There are feveral villages in the neighbourhood that have fcarcely, if at all, changed their appellations

T 3

Royal Fa

fanta.

ters,

lations fince that time, making allowance for the different accenting and pronunciation.

The other table contains the Roman laws, as commanded by the Emperor Trajan to be enforced throughout the Cifalpine Gaul. Here is also a piece of antique mofaic of Velleia. It is composed of black and white marble in small square bits, and cemented ftrongly together: it seems a rude representation of the Sun. I think I have omitted nothing worth mentioning in the virtu ftyle.

We have heard a piece of news to day which gave us great pleafure. The Inquifition is totally put an end to here; the grand Inquifitor being lately dead, their prifons are fhut up, and no Monks are in future to be received into the Dominican order; therefore when those that still remain extinguish, that wicked fociety will exift no more in this country.

The prefent Royal Family of Parma are much mily. In- beloved: the Infanta is esteemed one of the most Charac- amiable Princeffes in the world; fhe is lively, active, and of great courage; is very fond of the chace, as well as an admirable marks-woman, and will pursue the game frequently on foot, when the frozen fnow lies on the ground: there are few of her ladies who are fufficiently keen to accompany her. She is extremely humane and generous for her menu plaifirs her allowance is a thousand fequins a month, and I was credibly informed that she gives the greater part of it

away.

away. She encourages, and frequently excufes the foldiery from punishment, where it is poffible to extenuate their faults; and as fhe is not difficult of accefs, petitions reach her inceffantly, with which the endeavours to comply. As fhe is a German (being fifter to the present Emperor), you may suppose she has many applications from the diftreffed of her own country, though Monfieur Tillot does all he can to prevent their penetrating the palace; yet they frequently fucceed, and scarce ever fail of getting at the speech of the Infanta, who rarely disappoints their expectations. This tendency towards her country-people does not charm Monfieur Tillot, who doats upon the French, and who governs this little court with unlimited sway. The Infanta is a perfect mistress of mufic, has a charming voice, embroiders much in the tambour, and reads a good deal. She is tall and fair; never wears rouge or fard. The Infant is of a mild, indolent, unambitious difpofition, totally devoted to his minifter Tillot: all favours are obtained through him. His ftrong prejudices are to the French, their manners, politeness, &c.; he diflikes the Parmefans, and detefts the Germans. He has lately laid a new tax upon his Principality, which the people receive with great difguft; it is to the amount of an English fhilling, to hilling, to be paid half-yearly, for every hearth, or place upon which a fire is kindled; not excepting those temporary machines in the streets for the roafting of chefnuts.

Principal families.

Remark

ture.

The Infant and Infanta give ftrongly into de votion; they hear mafs twice every day, and are rigid obfervers of the tenets of the church. The court is brilliant and gay. The principal families are thofe of Roffi, Pallavicini, San Vitale, Mellilupi, &c. The two ladies of the court particularly diftinguished for their beauty are the Countess of Garimberti and the Marchionefs Malafpina

*

The Countess of San Vitale is faid to receive and entertain the moft company, particularly ftrangers; by whom she is much efteemed for her politeness and address. What I have faid above, I give you as from good authority, not from experience, for our very short stay in this town does not permit the availing ourselves of the amufement and diffipation our letters of recommendation might have procured us, from the fociety they would have opened to us. We have not prefented one of them, being determined to keep our word with you, in regard to the time allotted to our tour through Italy. We fhall haften on to Bologna, Florence, &c. that what time we can spare may be divided between Rome and Naples.

I believe I forgot to mention a fingular picture able pic in the church of St. Micheli. It reprefents St. Michael and the Virgin weighing fouls in a pair of fcales. There is an old one weighed against a young; the old foul finks down fo low, that it falls into hell, whilft the young is fo light that

it kicks the beam (one would think the late Mrs.

Mrs. B. held the balance). This airy foul has wings, fomewhat like a bat, with a very thin body, a bald head, and long weak arms and legs. I fuppofe the painter's idea muft have been that fouls have no hair, by his giving this one a bald pate; and no bones, as one of his arms bends like that of a rag-doll; by which an angel feizing him, pulls him away into Paradise.

The fashion of Cicefbeios is not banifhed the

polite focieties of Parma; for the fole object of contracting marriage here, as in France, is that of intereft. Young ladies at Parma are educated in convents, and brought out to be married when their parents have provided them a husband. The choofing for themselves is unheard-of, and would be esteemed the most enormous licentioufnefs. Wherefore the ftate deemed here the most happy, is that of a young rich widow. We shall find upon reflection, that thefe and many other matters, however shocking or unnatural they may appear to us, muft ever be the unavoidable confequences of all arbitrary and defpotic governments, whether in Italy or elsewhere. Adieu. I fhall write next from Modena, I believe.

Cicef

beios.

LET.