Theatre.

at finding this picture every way fo difagreeable and disappointing, I could not avoid criticising it a little before the Ciceroni; who exclaimed at my finding fault (though he could not deny that he perceived fome abfurdities) with the work of il divino, il grande Corregio.

The Theatre of Parma, erected in the time of Ranutio the Firft, is esteemed one of the most magnificent buildings at Parma. Vignola was the architect. The plan is a demi-oval. That part that fronts the ftage rifes in fteps, after the antique models, intended for the spectators to fit on. They rife about as high as the fecond row of boxes at the Italian Theatre at Paris. These steps are fo narrow, that they feem dangerous to fit upon; and rife at the fame time fo near the perpendicular, that I apprehend few English ladies have nerves fufficiently ftrong to venture to place themselves upon them, could this Theatre be transported to London. These are crowned by a gallery, ornamented and divided in front by columns, equally diftant, fupporting arches. Higher up, and above all, is a gallery for the common people. Lalande makes a capital miftake, in afferting that this Theatre will contain above twelve thoufand perfons; it appears barely large enough to accommodate four thoufand. The ornaments make a beggarly appearance; the pillars, frizes, cornices, &c. are all of wood, and wretchedly painted: the figures of the genii, intended to hold large wax-tapers to light the

Theatre,

Theatre, are poorly executed in plaifter: the other figures, higher up, are of the fame materials, and equally meritorious'; and the two Equeftrian ftatues, placed at each end of the Profcenium, are miferable performances. The height and breadth of this Theatre confidered, I am at a loss to imagine how it is poffible to light it. The ceiling appeared to be a parcel of old brown planks ill joined together, and much damaged by fmoke and damps. There is no orchestra; but the place where it should be is occupied by a long leaden trough, reaching the whole breadth of the Profcenium; from which are pipes or shoots fo contrived as to enable them to fill the trough with water, intended for the, reprefentation of a naumachia or fea-fight. I imagine this trough was to have ferved the double purpose of an orchestra and artificial fea: but when it fo happened that a naumachia was to be represented, what became of the poor musicians? they furely were not to remain in the trough; that would be a symphony al frefco indeed. As we could get no intelligence concerning this point, we contented ourselves with viewing the veffels intended for the fea fight, which are behind the half scenes; they are fmall, and move upon wheels. The stage flopes more than any I have feen; it is of a rapid defcent, and fo ill floored (I fuppofe from œconomical confiderations), that you cannot eafily walk over it without ftumbling. The effect of the voice from the stage is very surprising; every word, though VOL. I.

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spoke

fpoke under the common voice, is heard diftinctly at the fartheft extremity of the house, which is the pit-door of entrance, fronting the ftage, at the diftance of 106 yards. But the voice does not found agreeably; it seems to the distant auditor as if proceeding from a tomb: the fpeaker on the stage, as he pronounces, perceives a certain vibration in the air, as if the words at utterance became condensed, and rolled forward towards the audience. Perhaps the emptiness of the Theatre may in fome degree occafion these effects: but it has not yet been discovered to what power this extenfion of the voice is owing; it is therefore fuppofed to be fomething accidental in the architecture; many builders and others have carefully examined its conftruction, but to no purpose; a caufe having never yet been affigned for this effect. The fcenery and decorations are in a wretched state, and do not appear to have ever been magnificent or ingenious.

Upon the whole, you are ftruck at entering by a want of proportion: the building appears too high for its breadth; the fteps fupporting the gallery fhock the eye, and you feel as if under ground in a vaft deep and dark mine.

There has been no representation here fince the Emperor paffed through Parma: at that time an opera was performed on purpose for him in this Theatre: it is never made ufe of but on particular occafions.

This town affords another Theatre for operas ferious and comic, and for the comedie. The grand or serious opera during the months of May and June; from that time till Christmas, the French comedie; and from Christmas to the end of the carnival, buffoon or comic operas. The Infant defrays most part of the expence for theatrical representations.

Here is alfo a Caffino, or Affembly-room, for the nobility. The Infant provides the cards and lights, and two of his gentlemen do the honours. He fometimes honours the Caffino with his prefence, and plays. The company meet generally three times a week during the ceffation of theatrical amusements. This is a very œconomical, as well as agreeable scheme in a country where the Nobleffe are not accustomed to have affemblies at their own houses, and where the expence would be very inconvenient to them.

church.

Agostino

We have seen another church belonging to a St. Paolo female convent: it is called St. Paolo, and was founded by a Princefs Volgonda, niece to Cunigonda, widow of Bernard King of Italy. Volgonda was a nun in this convent, and died in the year 899. In the third chapel to the right is a very good picture by Agoftino Carracci, repre fenting a Virgin, a St. Margaret, St. Nicholas, and St. John. The picture over the great altar is by Raphael: the fubject is Jefus Chrift in Glory, Raphael. with St. Paul and St. Catherine; but this picture has been unfortunately retouched by fome prefumptuous

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Carracci.

Palace.

Gallery.

Academy.

fumptuous wretch of a painter, who has done his utmost to spoil it, and has fo far succeeded, as that fcarce a trace remains of the work of that prince of painters.

The palace is large, and feems to confift of feveral buildings joined together. The architecture irregular, and the front unworthy of obfervation. The court of this palace, which leads to the apartments, is in a fine style of architecture.

The vaft collection made by the Farnese family, of bronzes, pictures, medals, and a library of books, is removed to Capo di Monte, a palace belonging to the King of Naples.

The apartments are hung with crimson velvet embroidered with gold, as alfo with fome fine pieces of tapestry from Flanders, and from the Gobelins at Paris.

There is a gallery appropriated to the medals, defigns, &c. that have gained the prize in the Academy of painting and fculpture of Parma.

The Infant encourages this Academy as much as poffible, and I make no doubt that in a few years the students of Parma will diftinguish themfelves in these arts. Here are feveral of the prizedrawings for fix or feven years past. Those for buildings, and all that reprefent architecture, do honour to their authors; they are principally done in Indian ink, and amongst them are fome drawings by one George Dance, an Englishman, that I think are equal, if not fuperior, to thofe of the other