veller will here observe husbandry in a more flourishing situation than in the country he is soon to visit. The husbandmen in this part, as elsewhere, are slow in imitating new practices; but the continued success which attends his lordship's improvements, has not failed to effect a reformation amongst the Cartmel farmers."

Lord George Cavendish mentioned by Mr. West, was succeeded by Lord Frederick Cavendish his brother; and the present Lord George Cavendish, who is uncle to the Duke of Devonshire, became possessed of Holker on the death of Lord Frederick Cavendish. The domains of Holker are superbly rich in wood, and when at high-water, the river Leven, with the mountains of high and low Furness, make admirable pictures. The coast is in some places bold, and occasionally woody all the way from Holker to the Low Wood powder-mills; and the views on the fresh-water part of the Leven to Newbybridge, if not equal to others in the country, would be eagerly attended to in some of the southern counties. The cotton-works at Backbarrow reflect credit on the proprietors by the neatness of the buildings and the cleanliness of

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seeing a good collection of pictures; amongst which are, by Claude Lorrain, a very capital landscape, exhibiting a view of the Tiber, with the temple of Apollo, the nine muses, xc. another representing the departure out of Egypt, and two more small views. Also a large landscape by Rubens; two fine church pieces by B. Neefs (the figures by Elshamer); and several others by Woverman, Hobina, Teniers, Swanevelt, Zuccarelli, Rysdal, and other eminent

masters."

all around them, and the artist will find exercise for his pencil if he views this combination from the river, particularly if he can avail himself of the high wooded back-grounds on the Furnessfells side of it.

The road from Backbarrow by Bigland Hall to Cartmel has some fine scenery attached to it.

Cartmel is placed in a luxuriantly wooded valley; the church rises grandly, and is a most interesting object from many points; the high lands on the north, east, and west, occasionally assist as back grounds to the buildings and trees.

Wraysholm Tower, an old farm-house, is half a mile to the left of the traveller, as he passes between sand and sand, and near it is Humphreyhead, a rocky and wooded promontory, rising very boldly from the sea; at the foot of this hill is the famous spa called Holy-well, "found to be of great service in most cutaneous disorders, and much resorted to in the summer season from distant parts."

Cark Hall is an ancient farm-house, and worth studying.

Grange, finely situate on a steep bank above the sea, three miles south-east of Cartmel, is esteemed the most picturesque village in that neighbourhood.

"In crossing Leven-sands, to Ulverston, you have on the right, a grand view of Alpine scene

ry. A rocky hill patched with wood and heath, rising immediately from the coast, directs the eye to an immense chain of lofty mountains, apparently increased in magnitude and height since they were seen from Hest-bank. On a fine morning this is a pleasant ride, when the mountains are strongly illuminated by the sun beams, and patched with shadows of intervening clouds that sail along their sides; or when they drag their watery skirts over the summits, and admitting the streaming beams, adorn their rocky heads with silver, and variegate their olivecoloured sides with stripes of gold and green. This fairy scene soon shifting, all is concealed in a mantle of azure mist. At the Eau, or ford of the river Leven, another carter conducts you over. On the dissolution of the priory of Conishead, King Henry VIII charged himself and his successors with the payment of the salary, fifteen marks per annum, which the guide received from the priory.

"Ulverston, the London of Furness, is a neat town, at the foot of a swift descent of hills to the south-east. The streets are regular and excellently well paved. The weekly market for Low Furness has been long established here, to the prejudice of Dalton, the ancient capital of Furness. The articles of export are, iron-ore in great quantities, pig and bar-iron, oats, barley, beans, potatoes, bark, and limestone. The

principal inns are kept by the guides, who regularly pass to and from Lancaster, on Sunday, Tuesday, and Friday, in every week. Their

entertainment is good, the attendants civil, and the charge reasonable."

Since Mr. West's time Ulverston has been much enlarged, and the trade and commerce of the town increased.

"The church during the summer of 1804 was enlarged, or almost wholly rebuilt; it contains three aisles, and is a plain handsome edifice*. An organ of considerable power and sweetness was not many years ago erected, and much effect produced from it by the abilities of the present organist.

"In this town are several commodious inns, a small theatre, and an assembly-room."

There are now in Ulverston considerable manufactories of check and calico, large public breweries, a daily coach from Lancaster; and, for the accommodation of its increasing trade and commerce, in 1796 a canal about a mile and a quarter in length was completed, in order to form a communication between the east side of the town and the channel of the river Leven.

In 1797 the spirited and liberal-minded Mr. John Soulby, printer and stationer in Ulverston,

* New edition with additions of West's Antiquities of Furness, by the late Mr. William Close.

was the means of establishing a public circulating library" of new and well-chosen books in the superior departments of literature," the subscribers are respectable and numerous, and increasing annually.

Mr. Close says, that "the people of Low Furness have long been respectable for their loyalty. In 1537 the Earl of Sussex, in a letter to King Henry VIII., observes there could be no subjects more dutiful and obedient, and in 1642 most of the ancient families attached themselves to the royal standard." In 1803, when Bonaparte talked of invasion, three hundred of the inhabitants of Ulverston and its vicinity enrolled themselves as volunteers for the general defence of the kingdom. Thomas Sunderland, Esq., son of the celebrated amateur, and brother to the Rector, was their Lieutenant-Colonel.

Ulverston, the key and mart of Furness, has a weekly market on Thursday, which is well supplied with all sorts of excellent provisions.

The writer can bear witness to the truth of Mr. West's assertion, that in 1778 their entertainment was good, the attendants civil, and the charge reasonable. He is unacquainted with the present state of the inns in Ulverston, but he has found great good humour and a much greater quantity of courtesy and politeness from the inhabitants of Ulverston, than could reasonably have been expected from a town so remote from the public roads, and it is really surprising that as "ci