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a great bridge, called Cornigliano, composed of Corniglinine arches, of fufficient strength and extent to resist the overflowings of the river. It appears well in prospect. Farther on, the sea and the palace Durazzo are clearly discernible; but the post-road does not pass over the bridge; it turns to the left, and leads to Genoa by the magnificent fuburb of St. Pietro d'Arena*. You may suppose, I have seen nothing as yet of Genoa, but from the Genoa. windows of the inn. The town seems much alive, and thickly peopled, without noise or riot. The women's dress is fine, but fingular, I mean the Bourgeoise, for I have seen no noble ladies pass by: their heads are wrapped up in a piece of printed cotton, which looks like a counterpane: reaches, down to their wastes, and rolling it round them, they fold their arms over the ends, bringing it fo, close together before, that scarce any part of their faces can be seen. They have straight bodied gowns, with very long trains of rich fattins, damasks, &c. these they do not give themselves the trouble to hold out of the dirt; fo their tails sweep up all the ordure of the streets. This custom is, I presume, a pretence to magnificence. They generally wear long aprons of fine muslin, trimn with lace. The poorer fort of women and païsannes are wretchedly clothed; they wear a



* The post-masters obliged us to take fix horses for our carriage, when we had reached half-way from Novi to Genoa, for the remainder of the journey.


petticoat of woollen, or striped linen, with a cora set; their heads are quite naked, the hair of the chignion rolled round and round at the top of the back of the head, and several pewter bodkins, as long as skewers, stuck through it by way of orna. ment. Our host kindly advertises me, that the poft is going out. You see I do not neglect to seize every opportunity of writing. Adieu. You shall hear from me again, as soon as I can collect sufficient materials to form (I hope) a more entertaining letter. I remain, as always, &c.

P. S. We have had no trouble with the customhouse officers; for a small consideration they cheerfully let us pass without any difficulty, on M-'s affuring them we had nothing seizable. Our name has been sent to the Doge. This custom is what all strangers must comply with.


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Genoa, Nov. sth, 1770. | Have been confined to my bed two days, with I a rheumatic pain in my cheek, and a bad cold; M-- has had a blood-shot eye, which has been extremely troublesome to him; but at present we are both pretty well recovered. I lo dreaded being confined by illness, and consequently detained here longer than agreeable to us, that I determined to apply an outward remedy to my cheek, of spirit of guaiacum, and to take it inwardly at the same time; that by giving the rheumatism no quarter, I might have routed the enemy, so that he should not be able to rally again. For this purpose, I sent to an apothecary for the above drug: when it was brought to me, it appeared fo unlike, in colour and confiftency, to the guaiacum I had seen in England, that I feared he had made some mistake; fo I sent for him: he came prefently after; I was in bed, and my curtains drawn, and M-- had him into the room. Upon seeing a handkerchief tied over his eye, he concluded him to be the patient who had sent for guaiacum ; and as I suppose he had been already informed by the servants, that we had questioned the quality of his drug, he with great vehemence, and violent action, cried out, on entering the room, Bueno, buono per, gli occhi, bisogna frettare frottore.

Finding Finding M— did not instantly comply with his prescription, he changed his note from frottare to avalare. I laughed so much in my bed, that I could not speak; as for M he was too much charmed with the apothecary's error to attempt undeceiving him for some moments; at last he asked him gravely, whether it was equally efficacious for a rheumatic pain, as for a blood-shot eye. He replied in the affirmative, and had we added any other malady, he would, no doubt, have perlisted in the same remedy. In short, with him, spirit of guaiacum was the Grand elixir. But his wretchedneis, poverty, or avarice, was luch, that all his ardour proceeded from the fear of his not disposing of his drug, as he demanded twentyfour sols for a small phial half full. This man, in appearance, was the counterpart of Shakespear's apothecary; and had he been of Mantua, I should have concluded him a lineal descendant of that caitiff wretch, whose tattered weeds and overwhelming brows, &c.' However, upon inquiry, finding his drug to be really some preparation of guaia. cum, 1 ipread it over my cheek, and in half an hour ir gave me ease; though it was at the same time so strong, that had it been applied to the eyes, I suppose M would never have seen more. He is perfectly recovered, by using plan. tain-water and tutty.

There is something very shocking in being ferved entirely by men, till custom and necessity, reconciles you in some measure to it. Not a



female to be seen in an Italian inn. Our expences. here are a sequin a head per day*; for this they give us three or four dishes, consifting of a soup, the fowl that has been boiled in it, with or without rice, very indifferent indeed; a fry of liver and brains, or some such thing: these are our standing dishes; besides which, they vary from one day to another, pigeons a la crapodine, and sometimes ragoued in oil; partridges in fricando, and 'wich cabbage, &c.; but their constant use of oil (which is seldom good), even sometimes in

their soups, is extremely disgusting to us. We · may have roast meat if we choose it; but their manner of roasting is thus, after oiling the meat with a feather, they suspend it over a charcoal fire, until it is become fo dry and brittle as to admit of pulverisation. Fish is rarely to be had, except upon les jours maigre, when the galley Naves, chained two and two together, cry it about the streets; it generally consists of oysters, shrimps, small founders, and sprats. I have had these

• The valet de chambre, who is our courier, about fix livres per day; laquais de louage, 40 fols each, and they find themfelves. As the wine of the inn is not good, we have any fort we choose, by the Alak, from the noble families of Doria, Balbis, Spinola, Durazzo, Grimaldi, &c. &c.; for these nobles do not esteem themselves at all debased by vending a flask of wine, or a halfpenny worth of oil and vinegar, and all forts of liquors by the glass. This is what one may call trade ing in a great fiyle. There is nothing a noble Genoese would not sell; yet they fancy themselves much superior in rank to what is called the mercantile part of Genoa,

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