Peril he sought not, but ne'er shrank to meet : XLIV. Here the red cross, for still the cross is here, XLV. Ambracia's gulf behold, where once was lost XLVI. From the dark barriers of that rugged clime, coast. XLVII. He pass'd bleak Pindus, Acherusia's lake,‡ It is said that, on the day previous to the battle of Actium, Antony had thirteen kings at his levée. XLVIII. Monastic Zitza! from thy shady brow,* XLIX. Amidst the grove that crowns yon tufted hill, L. Here in the sultriest season let him rest, LI. Dusky and huge, enlarging on the sight, Flocks play, trees wave, streams flow, the moun- Nodding above; behold black Acheron ! Once consecrated to the sepulchre. Pluto! if this be hell I look upon, Close shamed Elysium's gates, my shade shall seek for none. LII. Ne city's towers pollute the lovely view; + Nicopolis, whose ruins are most extensive, is at The convent and village of Zitza are four hours' some distance from Actium, where the wall of the journey from Joannina, or Yanina,, the capital of the Hippodrome survives in a few fragments. These pachalic. In the valley the river Kalamas (once the ruins are large masses of brickwork, the bricks of Acheron) flows, and not far from Zitza forms a fine which are joined by interstices of mortar, as large as cataract. The situation is perhaps the finest in Greece, the bricks themselves, and equally durable. though the approach to Delvinachi and parts of According to Pouqueville, the lake of Yanina: Acarnania and Etolia may contest the pan. Delphi. but Pouqueville is always out. Parnassus, and, in Attica, even Cape Colonna and The celebrated Ali Pacha. Of this extraordinary Port Raphti, are very inferior; as also every scene in man there is an incorrect account in Pouqueville's Ionia, or the Troad: I am almost inclined to add, the Travels. approach to Constantinople; but, from the different features of the last, a comparison can hardly be made. The Greek monks are so called. Five thousand Suliotes, among the rocks and in the castle of Suli, withstood thirty thousand Albanians for eighteen years: the castle at last was taken by bribery. In this contest there were several acts performed not unworthy of the better days of Greece. The Chimariot mountains appear to have been volcanic. Now called Kalamas, Childe Harold saw them in their chieftain's For many a joy could he from night's soft presence tower, Thronging to war in splendour and success; That saddening hour when bad men hotlier press: And fellow-countrymen have stood aloof_ In aught that tries the heart how few withstand the proof! LXVII. It chanced that adverse winds once drove his bark Full on the coast of Suli's shaggy shore, sore That those who loathe alike the Frank and Turk Might once again renew their ancient butcherwork. Alluding to the wreckers of Cornwall. glean. LXXI. On the smooth shore the night-fires brightly blazed, The feast was done, the red wine circling fast, And bounding hand in hand, man link'd to man, Yelling their uncouth dirge, long daunced the kirtled clan. LXXII. Childe Harold at a little distance stood, The Albanian Mussulmans do not abstain from wine, and indeed very few of the others. +Palikar,' a general name for a soldier amongst the Greeks and Albanese who speak Romaic: it means, properly, 'a lad.' LXXVII. The city won for Allah from the Giaour, Yet mark their mirth-ere lenten days begin, LXXIX. And whose more rife with merriment than thine, O Stamboul! once the empress of their reign? Though turbans now pollute Sophia's shrine, And Greece her very altars eyes in vain : (Alas! her woes will still pervade my strain !) Gay were her minstrels once, for free her throng, All felt the common joy they now must feign; Nor oft I've seen such sight, nor heard such song, As woo'd the eye, and thrill'd the Bosphorus along. LXXX. Loud was the lightsome tumult on the shore; Glanced many a light caique along the foam, Seem to re-echo all they mourn in vain ; And long to change the robe of revel for the shroud! LXXXIII. This must he feel, the true-born son of Greece, most Their birth, their blood, and that sublime record Of hero sires, who shame thy now degenerate horde! LXXXIV. When riseth Lacedæmon's hardihood, When Thebes Epaminondas rears again, When Athens' children are with hearts endued, When Grecian mothers shall give birth to men, Then may'st thou be restored; but not till then, A thousand years scarce serve to form a state; An hour may lay it in the dust: and when Can man its shatter'd splendour renovate, Recall its virtues back, and vanquish Time and Fate LXXXV. And yet how lovely in thine age of woc, Land of lost gods and godlike men, art thou! Thy vales of evergreen, thy hills of snow,* Proclaim thee Nature's varied favourite now; Thy fanes, thy temples to the surface bow, Commingling slowly with heroic earth, Broke by the share of every rustic plough: So perish monuments of mortal birth, So perish all in turn, save well-recorded Worth; LXXXVI. Save where some solitary column mourns Above its prostrate brethren of the cave ;t Save where Tritonia's airy shrine adorns Colonna's cliff, and gleams along the wave;+ *On many of the mountains, particularly Liakura, the snow never is entirely melted, notwithstanding the intense heat of the summer; but I never saw it lie on the plains, even in winter. Of Mount Pentelicus, from whence the marble was dug that constructed the public edifices of Athens. The modern name is Mount Mendeli. An immense cave formed by the quarries still remains, and will till the end of time. In all Attica, if we except Athens itself and Mara These hours, and only these, redeem'd Life's years thon, there is no scene more interesting than Cape of ill! LXXXII. But, 'midst the throng in merry masquerade, *When taken by the Latins, and retained for several years. Mecca and Medina were taken some time ago by the Wahabees, a sect yearly increasing. Colonna. To the antiquary and artist, sixteen coumns are an inexhaustible source of observation and design; to the philosopher, the supposed scene of some of Plato's conversations will not be unwelcome; and the traveller will be struck with the beauty of the prospect over isles that crown the Egean deep: but, for an Englishman, Colonna has yet an additional interest, as the actual spot of Falconer's shipwreck. Pallas and Plato are forgotten, in the recollection of Falconer and Campbell: Here in the dead of night by Lonna's steep,, The seaman's cry was heard along the deep.' This temple of Minerva may be seen at sea from a |