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1816.) A Trip to Paris in August and September 1815. 291 the quay, with an impression of the It was like a tilted cart, completely coform of the king's foot, which he there vered with plain leather, old and dirty, set on French ground for the first time having only two seats in front, all the since his exile.
back part being allotted for baggage and While taking a solitary evening walk goods. The shafts of this two-wheeled round the ramparts of this place, with carriage were almost as heavy as those the sea and coast of England in view, of an English wagyon, and were supthe mind is naturally led to a recollec- ported by ropes across an old clumsy tion of the history of former times; and saddle, laid over a heap of straw upon the fact of some patriotic inbabitants of the back of a very strong horse of the this place voluntarily offering, after the Flanders breed. Iwo other horses of memorable siege, their lives as a sacri- a slighter make were harnessed to the fice for the salvation of their fellow ci- cart on each side of the shafts. Mr, tizens, made me look upon the descend- Commissary, who was to be my sole ants of such men with respect. In the companion for two days and nights, church of this place I found nothing re- sat on his seat in front an old squat markable, except a whole length figure short-necked, rosy-faced, and hawkof our Saviour carved and painted white posed gentleman, with his bead in an with the wounds marked with red, lying old dirty travelling cap. By the side of under an arch, as in a tomb. There this being I took my seat in the cart, were many candles burning before this which was abundantly furnished with tomb, which served to make the gloom old straw emitting a disagreeable smell, and dirtiness of it the more visible. The I was going to heave a sigli, but sucpersons who were kneeling before this ceeded in substituting a smile for it, retomb, and praying from their books, ap- collecting the advice of Horace: peared to me only females of an ad- “ Amara læto temperare risu !" vanced age. I met some of them com- Our postilion soon stopped the carriage ing out, after a walk I took about the at the door of a house, where Mr. Comchurch: I was struck with the respect- missary had business; be opened the able appearance of some of these ma- front of this miserable vehicle, defrons, their beads in plain cambric scended, and hobbled into the house, caps, the pallid colour of their fine skin for he was quite lame with the gout. setting off the darkness of their eyes, After we had proceeded on the road for where still might be seen a gleam of some time, I was desirous of commentheir former fires; they now apparently cing a conversation with my companion, sought a refuge at this shrine from the who, I was pretty sure, was not likely to illusions of this world. Quand on a annoy me with his loquacity. I seized passé le tems des illusions (says Vol- the opportunity afforded me by our taire) l'on ne goute plus de cette vie, on meeting with many soldiers with bunla traine.
dles on sticks upon their shoulders. I There is no military garrison in this asked my companion where all these town; but in the market place I saw soldiers might be going to. Monsieur the national or city guards on duty. They le Commissaire gave me not the least were romping, and making a most inde answer ; I ascribed this silence 10 his corous noise. They wore no uniform; great knowledge of the world, which such a set, I am sure, Falstaff would would not allow bim, in these tinies, to not have marched with through Coven- enter into conversation with a stranger try.
on any subject which bore in the least Not meeting with any travellers at upon politics. But I soon discovered a Calais, whom I might have joined in more substantial reason of the Comtaking a carriage to Paris for ourselves, missary's silence-he was deaf. I preferred to the common diligence a Our road led through Boulogne; seat offered me in the carriage of the the country, forming hills and dales of commissary of the Post-uffice, who was green fields, intersected with bedges, going with the London mail to Paris at seems still to belong to England, whose an hour which suited me exactly. This shores are bere plainly seen with the commissary can take only one passen- naked eye. We passed the monuinent, ger; you are sure of horses on the road, begun to be erected by the French and that the gates of fortified towns will army in honour of Buonaparte; it seemed be opened to you in the night. I was as yet only a scaffolding of wood, withstanding at the gate of the inn at the ap- out any inasonry; it may be seen on pointed bour, when behold the carriage, the beach at Dover. Our clumsy.carwith Mr. Commissary in it, approached. riage went on tolerably fast, and easily, 292 A Trip to Paris in August and September 1815. [May 1, over the roads, as they were paved in Mama, a very respectable-looking old the middle; but, from the uncommon lady, offered a cold leg of multon roasted, strength of these and other carriages &c. As Mr. Commissary had not comhere, one would suppose that in worse municated to me his plan of foraging, I seasons they are subject to destructive, would not lose this opportunity, and sat concussions, which I also understood down to this cold collation; Mademoifrom my companion to be the case. This selle standing by me, whom all my perit is dithcult to conceive upon this and suasions could not induce to be seated. other great paved roads; and I am in. “Is your inother a widuw, may I take clined to suppose that it is from excess the liberty to ask?" "Yes, Sır, she has of econoniy that they make their car. been so for several years."-" Have you riages so very strong, to prevent as long any brothers?” “ No, Sir; I am sorry as possible the expense of repairs, or of I never had one. I live very happily with building new ones.
my mother; I love my mother more than My anxious desire to reach Paris pre- I love mysell, and she loves me on ne vented me from regretting that I had peut plus (as much as possible); I every not tiine enough allowed me to take a morning in my prayers thank God that proper view of the places we travelled he has given me so good a mother, and through. Mr. Commissary had been beg that he will spare ber life, and not well known on this road for the last allow me to do any thing to displease thirty years; he bad been with Buona- her.”-“ It is to be hoped that you will parte in Spain: he had a defect in his soon be married to some worthy young mouth, yet I think I could understand man, who may be deserving of you; for his politics from an observation of his, it must be awkı ard for you and your somewhat distinct, about Napoleon- good mother to carry on such a concera & L'Entie détruit souvent l'Ambition." as yours.” “ Ah, Monsieur!” she ex
On approaching certain cabarets on claimed, turned her head aside, and it the road, the cracking of the postilion's appeared to me as if her eyes became whip made some matron or damsel ap- suffused by a tear.—“ I am afraid," I pear at the door of the public-house said, “ that my observation has been inwith a glass of brandy for Monsieur le trusive." “ Oh no, Sir," she replied; Commissaire, who joked with them fami- " but-recollections"-she stopped: I
iarly. After the commissary had taken durst not inquire; but she soon resumed: a certain number of these doses of " I expected to have been married bebrandy, and some claret from his own fore this time to a very good young man, store, he began to sing; but on account the eldest son of a friend of my late of the defect in his mouth, I could not father's, in -, (one of the newlymake out a word of it, except now and acquired French provinces in Germany.) then l'amour! He had told me before My father came from the same place. that he was 74 years old. So we trot- The young man had lived with us here ted on, whilst now and then little beggar before for two years; every body loved girls threw bouquets of flowers into our him. The conscription fell upon his carriage to obtain a few sous. The younger brother: their mother being a commissary, to whom I had paid four poor widow, was not able to raise the Napoleons for my passage, had the trou- money for the necessaries with which ble of paying the postilions, and of quar- the conscript must absolutely be furrelling with thein about drink-money, or nished ; the elder brother enlisted voloneven balances due from a former jour- tarily, to obtain a sum of money which ney; one of them threatened Mr. Com- is paid to volunteers before they march; missary that he would overturn him the out of this money he furnished his next time he should happen to drive younger brother with the requisites for hiin.
had passed through Montreuil his equipment: they were both marched and Abbeville without Mr. Commissary to the army in Spain, and were there saying any thing about diuner. Ato killed."-"Oh the melancholy consewhen he was gone into the place about quences of these wars!" I exclaimed. his business, a young interesting female, Very true, Monsieur,” she replied; with a silk handkerchief tied about her “when a young man has not distinguished head in the form of a small oyster-barrel, himself in the army, he is not looked came to the carriage, and asked when upon here."-Whilst this good creature ther I would not alighit and take some was talking, I observed her looking trice refreshment, Linquired what she could or thrice through the window, as if somegive me': she requested me to walk into thing out of doors attracted her notice. the house and she would ask mama, This induced me to look through the
1816.) A Trip to Paris in August and September 1815. 293 window myself, and I saw Mr. Commis- vate carriages dashing along;-you are sary putting his red face out of his dirty here disgusted with their lumbering, cart, like a fiery meteor emerging from a waygon-like diligences, the poor appeardark cloud. He seemed to be swearing ance of the generality of their horses, like a musquetaire at my long stay. I their beggarly harness, and ridiculous was obliged to take my leave of this postilions; and with the meagre scenery amiable dutiful daughter. This little and the little life that is stirring on these episode consoled me for many hours of roads:--no neatly-raised footpath for the commissary's dull monotonous so- the well-dressed villager to walk along, ciety.
no village-green, no rosy-faced children, Picardy, through which this road no fair blue-eyed village maids; no green passes, is exceedingly uninteresting with turf, nor shady lanes among beautiful regard to rural scenery; but the soil is hedges and trees, cheer the drowsy samecultivated with the greatest industry. ness of the wearying straight line of these Boundless oceans of corn (if I might roads. use the expression) offered themselves to At Beauvais I met with the first foview, uobroken by hedges or trees. The reign troops I saw in France; they were corn was rife, and partly cut; but there English cavalry. I inquired of the miscertainly seemed to be a scarcity of tress of the inn how the Prussians, who hands för so much work; though among had been in this town before, had bethe reapers there did vot appear to me a baved; she shok ber head, and expressed greater, if so great a proportion, of wo a hope that the English tou might soon men as in England.
a inost intelligent The villages had rather a better ap- agreeable Frenchwoman; she joked me pearance than I expected; the cottages about my entertaining travelling compawere in good repair, and had a clean nion, who, as she knew, was deaf and outside; but the country in general, dumb. I told her I should be very happy compared with England, seemed to me to exchange his society for hers. “ When to bear evidence, that a good soil and one cannot possibly lose by a change," diligent cultivation may give subsistence she answered, “ one may venture upon to a numerous population, but cannot any." Understanding that I had never furnish them with many conveniences been in Paris, she expatiated on the and comforts, inuch less with luxuries. grandeur and beauty of that place; and No well-built private houses with gar on my observing that it was once called dens, no country gentleman's elegant (by Voltaire) the capital of Europe, she seat and park, no extensive buildings quickly replied, “Elle l'est toujours" (Itis for manufactories, here interrupt the so still). Poor woman! she might have said eternal monotony of white stone cot so, but in another sense of the word, if she tages. The roads are everywhere desti- bad seen it filled with the soldiers of all tute of what the roads in England abound the sovereigns of Europe. --At this place with-the neat public-house with a lime. Mr.Commissary always halted and dined. tree and sign before it, a jolly landlord - The houses bere were a great part of and a comely landlady, a clean fire-side, Saxon architecture, with gable ends, and furniture, and utensils,--aye! and stout the posts among the brick-work painted, politicians too, daring to canvas the The place has a manufacture of conimon measures of the prime minister; not to cloth. Near this town I saw the first mention the grand inns which adorn the vineyard: it was small and unproduce English roads and villages. The taste of tive, owing to a frost in the spring. the gentry in France seems to be in this
(To be continued.) respect the reverse of that which prevails in England; the former establisha MR. EDITOR, ing their residence in the capital, or in IN travelling lately through Stafford: the country towns; which circumstance shire, about a mile from Walsall I was gives to the French country towns a su shewn a remarkable tree, which grows, periority in appearance to those of Eng. on the road-side near Bentley Hall. Au jand. I met with but one nobleman's the time I saw it, it was leafles, and seat during the day; it was the chateau from that circumstance might have been of Mons. Clermont-Tonnerre. Instead passed without observation; but in the of the lively bustle upon the roads in sunumer it must excite the attention of the England, day and night of handsome curious, from its partaking otike nature stage-coaches with decently-dressed pas- of the oak and the cash. It is a wellsengers, drawn by five horses with good grown tree, and may be considered räharness--post-chaises, and elegant pri- ther elegant; the two priucipal benches
294 Mr. Pye on a Remarkable Tree and the Escape of Charles II. (May 1, diverging a short distance from the ground King asked him whether there were none in an angle of about ten degrees. The of the English taken that had joined trunk for some distance appears to be with the Scots; he answered, he did not one entire stem, and to throw out hear that that rogue Charles Stuart branches that are decidedly of different was taken; some of the others, he said, species-one being oak and the other were taken, but not Charles Stuart. ash. What makes it more remarkable is, The King told him, that if that rogue that the branches appear to vie with were taken, he deserved to be banged each other, in length, there being little more than all the rest for bringing in the difference between them; and on that Scots; upon which the man told the account it would not be so obvious at King, that he spoke like an honest man, first sight that they were tivo distinct and they parted." I remain, &c. species. This tree is as remarkable for
CHARLES Pre. the situation in which it grows as for the London, March 10, 1816. peculiar properties of its nature, being ön the estate of the distinguished family MR. EDITOR, of the Lanes, so honourably mentioned THOUGH tbe excellency of our church in history for the hazardous assistance liturgy hath been treated upon at large they afforded King Charles the Second, by many and learned divines, yet, these when most closely pursued by his ene- treatises from their length, hare deterred mies. As the circuinstance is so inti- many from reading them, while the learnmately connected with the history of this ing and quotations with which they have country, and as the King's own narrative been fraught bave rendered thein inconof his escape after the battle of Wor- prehensible to others whose understandcester is not frequently to be found, I ings have not been improved by the adshall take the liberty of transcribing that vantages of education and science; thus portion of it which relates to the Lanes, however clear and perspicuous its utiwho resided at Bentley Hall, and to lity hath been proved, however argumenwhom Charles the Second in all probabi- tative the necessity of conforming to it, lity owed his life.
yet, on account of the reasons above " That night the King, accompanied stated, many are led to think upon it by Richard Penderell, went to Mr. Whit- with indifference, and to read it with greaves, about six or seven miles off. unconcern.--At a time when this our Here he spoke with Lord Wilmot, and venerable establishment is not only se sent him away to Colonel Lane's, who cretly, but openly, attacked by those lived at Bentley, about five or six miles who dissent from her forms, and use every from thence, to find what means could exertion in their power to prove her piety be found for his escaping towards Lon- cold, and her liturgy formal; it may not don; who told my lord that he had a be improper through the medium of the sister who had a very fair pretence for New Monthly Magazine, a publication going near Bristol to a cousin of hers whose pages are ever open to the cause married to a Mr. Norton, who lived two of truth, briefly to state a few of those or three miles towards Bristol, on So- excellencies which are to be found in the mersetsbire side, and she might carry common prayer of our established church, the King thither as her man; and from and prove as far as we are able, that he Bristol he might find shipping to get out who shares the advantages of living under of England.
a British Constitution, ought to conform “ The next night the King went to to the established religion as much as to Colonel Lane's, where he changed his the established laws of his countryclothes into a little better habit, like a though I doubt not, that a host will rise serving-man, being a kind of grey cloth up and say that it is the glory of this suit; and the next day the King and nation, as well as the peculiar privilege Mrs. Lane took their journey towards of every individual in it, to worship, bis Bristol.
Creator in such a manner as couscience " They had not gone two hours on dictates, or his will inclines. Hence ariso their way, but the mare the King rode so many sects, each prosessing their own cast a shoe; so they were forced to ride tenets, and each using distinct forms. to get another shoe at a scattering vil- Unhappy for mankind that this should be lage; and as his Majesty was holding the case ; for it causes the infidel and his horse's foot, he asked the smith what scorner, to reject religion altogether. It news; who told him, there was no news gives an opportunity for the lower orders that he knew of since the good news of of society to doubt respecting its necesthe beating of the rogues the Scots. The sity, and causes them to be indifferent 1816.] On the Liturgy of the Established Church,
295 with respect to the observance or choice pastor preaches redemption through of any. It was maintained by a writer Christ, and is faithful in impressing the of pbilosophy, and one greatly skilled in doctrines of christianity on the minds of the study of divinity, “ that differences his hearers, then indeed religion cannot of opinion promote inquiry, discussion be the cause of his removal, for these and knowledge; that they help to keep important doctrines are the same now ap the attention of religious subjects, as they always were, nor will it cease to and a concern about them, which might be the case until the world itself shall pass be apt to die away in the calm silence away, of universal agreement.”—This, though And like the baseless fabric of a vision, it may appear specious in theory, I am Leave not a wreck behind. afraid is generally contrary in practice. We must attribute it then to the dea For the inquiry 'made is not that uni- sire of novelty, the pleasure of gratifica formity of sentiment should be gained, tion, and the short satisfaction of bearing but to establish and confirm some favo- some new preacher. From these remarks rite opinion, or soine new doctrine, to we may not be surprised at seeing our dispute about some unfathomable coun- churches deserted, especially when the sels of the Deity, or the intricate mys- hoary locks of a parish priest indicate teries of the Divine Godhead. Thus that he long hath served, and perhaps "ever learning, they never come to the in the same place where Providence first knowledge of the truth.” Others discuss, placed him there he remained; nor shall bat like unto the Athenians of old, spend he have been indifferent with respect to their time io nothing else, but either to the discharge of the important duties of sell or to hear some new thing," and to his office, being found ever active in the this passage we might add Person, for cause of religion, and zealous in the gratification is now a days, as much vineyard of his Lord and Master-yet sought after in the religious world, as with him it is, as it was with Christ edification.-A preacher of a certain himself: many leave him and forsake class of people must be first tried, or as him; they run to hear some new thing, it is termed, “ come upon trial :" thus to listen to sonie fresh teacher, though not only his matter," but his“ manner," wholly ignorant with respect to his senundergoes the strictest scrutiny, and it timents, his life, or conversation. Thus romaios for his criticising hearers to as children may they be tossed to and determine whether he shall continue fro, and carried about with every wind their teacher,--but should he fail, ano- of doctrine, by the sleight of men and ther perlaps, not in any measure better cunning craftiness.” But a small porqualified than the one rejected, taking tion from the inspired volume of truth the bint of his fellow candidate's fail is read; this is not wbat the people wish ings, corrects that which hath been the to hear: it is extempore preaching-excause of his rejection, and meeting with tempore praying; these are the grand the applause and approbation of his objects. The prayers of the Church come judges, gains the object of his wishes, not from the heart; they are read with and preaches to them as they like. But coldnessm-answered with indifference; short is his continuance among them. they partake not of that devotion which A year or two may be the limit of his is experienced and felt in extempore stay. Having just been long enough to worship; they are known before-hand: know his congregation, he is removed to in a word, the Book of Common Prayer some distant part, for according to the is become so old and common, that we opinion of one, who, by some was desire to hear some new thing; and bereckoned very zealous in the good cause. cause the parson of the parish hath acted La preacher, if he preaches above with zeal, though tempered with pru# year to the same congregation, will dence, and maintained a character irrepreach them all away," and after that proachable,-yet, however excellent the period, though it is a very short one, prayers may be which he uses in the " he will preach to empty benches and church, because the former hath lived a naked wail."--How far the doctrines many years in the same situation, and of such preachers, or the sentiments of constantly uses the latter, they leave the such thinkers, are consistent with true church, and, as an excuse for such conreligion, or genuine piety, I leave the duct, find fault with the prayers of our judicious reader to determine for him- establishment, self, and also to decide whether it is
But to answer these objections, and gratification or edification that congrega- point out their inconsistency, shall, Mr. tons of such a nature seek forr--If the Editor, be the subjects of future papers