THE FLOWER-GARDEN, SOWING SEEDS: Half-hardy Annuals.-Sow the following seeds any time before the middle of the month, if you have the convenience of a slight hotbed; but, if you never reared such things before, it is better that you should wait to the end of the month, for all the seeds that I shall mention to-day will do if they are got in before the end of April. The only difference is, that they will be later in coming into flower-but not in the proportion of the time that may be lost in the spring. I have sometimes noticed that seeds out of the same packet sown at an interval of six weeks in spring, have flowered within twelve days of each other in the summer. Much depends on the season, and the convenience one has to rear them; and, no doubt, much depends on the skill of the manager. In general, I would not advise new beginners to attempt too much early in the season, for we all know how tiresome it is to lose things after we have taken all the pains we can with them; and without some considerable practice, very little seedlings are apt to be lost through very slight and unforeseen causes.

Soil. For annuals, and indeed for most other seeds, I put little stress on the kind of soil for them; for this reason, that as soon as the seedlings are large enough to be handled, they ought to be removed into other pots and transplanted singly; and this will be necessary in about three weeks, or a month at farthest, after sowing. The only thing which I can think of now, to give strong advice about, is this: if I have a packet of very choice seeds which, for various reasons, I must trust to a young man, to whose department the seeds belong; as, in large places, this and all the rest of the work is divided among so many foremen-every one of them looking after his own things, and is responsible for them; well, suppose this young man has not had much experience yet in managing seedlings, I would caution him particularly not to use any leaf-mould, or soil with which manure has been mixed-two very good things in their way, and much used with our common seeds; but knowing that the young plants from this packet of seeds come up very slender, and are peculiarly liable to damp-off while very young, and knowing that enriched soil is more favourable to damp than very poor sandy soil, I charge him to guard against this, and to use the poorer compost; and for the same reason, knowing that very poor soil is more favourable to bring the seedlings on firm and hardy, I would advise all new beginners to use nothing better for their seed pots. The rest I shall notice under each head or name as I proceed.

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM PYROPEUM, or TRICOLOR, as it is oftener called, is one of the most dwarfish and prettiest little annuals I know, and not at all difficult to manage. It is one of those things we call succulents, and belongs to a family of Cape plants. The Ice plant is of this family, and there are I know not how many hundreds of different kinds, or species, of this one family, all of them living on the most scanty food in the barren plains, and on rocks in South Africa. The largest book with coloured figures of plants I ever saw, was entirely devoted to this single family, by a German prince (Prince Salem Dick);

and I am almost sure this annual is the prettiest of the whole. Therefore, it is surely worth growing; and a sixpenny packet of seeds would fill a good sized bed. It is the best thing we have to fill a very shallow fancy vase, for it will flower in profusion if the soil is three inches deep. It will grow equally well on a rich vine border, flowering for two months; and might be had in flower from Midsummer to the end of September, by sowing it now; again about the middle of April; and a third sowing about the tenth of May; but those sown in March do best. For growing seeds of choice things like this, five-inch pots are best. They are not too small to be always wanting water, nor too large to hold the soil long wet after watering, and so encourage dampness among the seedlings. All seed pots should be well drained; and for almost all the finer annuals the pots ought to be watered before the seeds are sown, and not after, for small seeds are very liable to be displaced by the first watering before the soil is settled round them; and by watering the pot first, then sowing the seeds, and pressing these down very even and gently after they are covered, the seeds get imbedded in their proper places: the covering of dry mould, which should not be deeper than just to cover the seeds, will suck up part of the moisture from around the seeds, and the whole surface is then in that comfortable condition which we call "neither wet nor dry." If the pots are put by in this state, and kept in the dark in a slight hotbed until the seedlings begin to appear, very little water indeed will suffice; and the less of it given to seed pots the better, provided the pots are not allowed to get too dry. As soon as this and all other half-hardy seedlings are well up out of the soil, they ought to be inured to the light and air at once, and be brought out of the seed bed in a few days, and placed in some warm, dry situation, away from draught, for the first ten or twelve days; but early in the spring much depends on the weather. Whether the weather be favourable or not, however, they must not remain in a hotbed longer than I stated, unless it is a very slight one indeed, and that large portions of air can be given; but if this can be admitted, it would be the best possible way to manage them for the first six weeks, or until they are strong enough to stand in a cold pit or the front of a greenhouse.

MESEMBRYANTHEMUM GLABUM is a very old -fashioned annual of this class, but rather a pretty one if well managed. It has large, lemon-coloured flowers, and lasts a long time in bloom. One sowing of it any time in March will be enough, as it is an autumnal flowerer. The same treatment as for the last will do for it.

CLINTONIA PULCHELLA.-The pretty Clintonia is also an elegant but very dwarf plant; just one of those gems which all lovers of flowers like to see in their season. The flowers are blue and white, and although I range it with half-hardy things, it is in reality as hardy as a crocus, being from North West America. Nevertheless it is well worth early nursing as a tenderling, after the manner first directed.

RHODANTHE MANGLESII, or Capt. Mangles' Roseflower, is another of these little gems, and the last of them which I shall mention to-day. It is very like an everlasting flower, and is nearly one in reality. The same treatment will bring this forward also, indeed, I grouped them together on this account. D. BEATON.

(To be continued.)

GREENHOUSE AND WINDOW

GARDENING.

EPACRIS-contrasted in some respects with Erica.— The different species of the beautiful family of the Epacris are peculiarly fitted to suit those with limited means and space, and who may yet wish to possess as great variety as possible of flowering plants. Many of them, such as the crimson Impressa and the snowwhite Nivalis, with their congeners and varieties, flower freely during the winter months; and others, such as Grandiflora and Miniata, with their reddish crimson and vermillion flowers tipped with white, bloom in spring and early summer, and almost at any time, according to the diversity of treatment they receive in the matter of potting and growing the young shoots. They cannot be very successfully used as a window plant in a sitting-room, unless for the period when the plant is fully in bloom, as, like their near neighbours in appearance, the heath family, they dearly like plenty of fresh air. The closish atmosphere of a sitting-room, however, if not kept hot, will not affect them injuriously nearly so soon as it would the most of the ericas. The difficulty of growing the latter well, even in a small house where geraniums, cinerarias, calceolarias, fuchsias, &c., are grown, arises from the fact that the moist atmosphere in which these at one time or another delight, is the most fruitful cause of producing mildew among the heaths, which would soon impair the beauty of, if not totally destroy, the finest specimens. This dreaded enemy of the heath grower seldom or never makes its appearance among epacrises-their hardy leaves not affording a tempting enough feeding and reposing place for the fungus; and hence we find that they flourish in an atmosphere and a temperature that would be ruinous to the erica family, accommodating themselves, in many respects, to the treatment given to the soft-wooded plants referred to; though even then prudence would dictate the necessity of keeping them together where the greatest quantity of fresh air could be given.

We are not aware that this distinctive feature of the two families has been greatly noticed, though of considerable importance to the amateur; nor do we think we can fully and satisfactorily account for its existence, though with respect to the fact there can be no doubt. The heaths cultivated are mostly natives of the Cape of Good Hope, or hybrids raised from them. Their natural localities there are the tops and sides of mountains, and the fissures and clefts of rock, where the soil is scanty, and chiefly consisting of the decaying debris of the rock, and vegetable matter which had been growing and decomposing for centuries. Their position removed them from the scorching heat of the plains, and, unless in the rainy season, exposed them to a dry, clear, coolish atmosphere. Unless, therefore, when starting into free growth, after the free-growing kinds have been pruned after flowering, coolness and airiness are the essential elements of success-elements which demonstrate the importance of giving heaths, where practicable, a place for themselves. The epacrises, on the other hand, may be said to be the heaths of Australasia. No ericas are found there, and no epacrises found at the Cape. The name (from epi upon, and akros the top) is designed to give us an idea of the localities in which they are found— the tops of the mountains. As the climate there, in many places, in several respects resembles our own— and as, at least, the atmosphere near the coast will be less dry than in the interior at the Cape-we

may thus see one reason why the epacris will submit to variations of temperature, and a degree of closeness and humidity in the atmosphere which would soon destroy a heath.

"But then," says a young friend, "how am I, without glasses and much knowledge of botany, to know an epacris from a heath? Uncle Richard took me the other day to see what he called a beautiful crimson heath, and it was exactly the same as this, that you call the Epacris impressa; and really the leaves and little tubular flowers look exactly like many heaths." Without going into the depths of botany, because there we should be afraid of getting overhead ourselves, we shall, without noticing other great distinctions, merely advert to the difference in the leaves and flowers. The leaves of the heath are generally opposite each other, or in a whorl round the stem. The leaves of the epacris are not opposite, but alternate. Again, the leaves of heaths have generally netted veins, similar to our hardy trees; the leaves of the epacris have generally their veins more longitudinal in their character, extending from the base to the apex; resembling more, in this respect, the leaf of a leek than the leaf of a cucumber. The monopetalous tubular blossom of a heath is divided into four segments at its point, and contains within it eight stamens, inserted at the base of the corolla. The segments of the blossom of an epacris are five, and there are five stamens, not free, but adhering, for the greater part of their length, to the inside of the corolla.

CULTURE. Here the first thing to be considered is soil. This should be the same as that used for the generality of heaths, namely, sandy turfy peat, using it as rough as possible; proportioning, however, the roughness and the size of pieces to the size of the pot, and the large or small nature of the shift given. For instance, pieces of the compost, the size of marbles, may be used in a pot four inches in diameter; but in a pot of twelve inches, the pieces may range from the size of marbles to that of a turkey's egg. Pieces of charcoal will also assist in keeping the soil open and also be useful for drainage.

SELECTION OF PLANTS.-Where fine future growth is desirable, very young healthy plants should be chosen in preference to those which are older and somewhat stunted in their growth. A plant, with its pot crammed with roots, may be made to flower successively where it is, but it is not to be depended upon for repotting and starting afresh into vigorous growth.

POTTING. The pots should either be new or perfectly clean outside and inside, and porous rather than hard. Before potting, be sure that the plant has been thoroughly watered, and then allowed to drain. If potted dry, nothing will again thoroughly wet the ball, but placing the pot in a tub of water, which, in any case, and especially when the one-shift system is used, would reduce the new unappropriated soil to something of a marshy state. In potting either upon the continuous, or the one-shift system, we consider it preferable to adopt the first until the plants have been placed in five-inch pots. The pieces of charcoal blended with the soil, independently of acting as chemical absorbents, will act mechanically as well, and be much lighter than pieces of sandstone. The roots should reach the outside of the ball, after passing and surrounding the lumpy pieces, but should not get matted there to any extent before being shifted. The surface soil should always be fine, or too much air may enter. The same atten

tion must be given to the end of the chapter. On the one-shift system, a plant is at once transferred from a five-inch pot to one of twelve inches or more, or less; the soil, of course, is used much rougher, and more attention must be paid to drainage, and rapid growth after being shifted. Anything like a clogging up of the drainage is ruinous. Above the broken potsherds should be placed a layer of moss, and some small clean-washed pebbles, or broken charcoal sifted, to take out the dust. The moss, if fresh, will not only for a long time keep the drainage clear, but will act as an equaliser of moisture. There is no necessity for elevating the ball in the centre of the pot. By the common method of potting, your plants will grow more slowly, but every year will be improving; by the other, you will obtain a fine specimen in a third of the time, but it will sooner begin to deteriorate.

AFTER-MANAGEMENT: Watering.-Like heaths, no plants suffer more from being allowed to get very dry. Strange, and they natives of such high and dry places." No! not so strange after all. There, however meagre the soil, the fibres had next to unlimited range, and in the driest and clearest weather the moisture raised by evaporation and capillary attraction from the subsoil and the rocks beneath, would supply their hair-like fibres as it passed them. Here we give them no such advantages when confining them in a pot, and setting them, it may be, on an isolated shelf. When potting on the old system, the general principle in watering must be attended to-namely, water thoroughly, and give none until again wanted. This same principle followed out in the one-shift system, would render failure more than problematical. The great rule here is not to potch the new soil with water, until the roots are getting into it.

Potting being done generally in spring, or early in summer, the plants in both cases, but especially for the one-shift system, should be set in a close pit, to encourage growth; giving and increasing the air only as that has been effected. Shading at first to keep down the temperature when the sun is hot, and syringing the plants and the walls of the pit, thus imitating the rainy season in their natural localities; increasing the air and full exposure to light, as the growth approaches completion; removing then the sashes entirely, and allowing the plants either to stand in the pit, or be placed in any sheltered situation, where they can stand full in the sun, and yet be protected from drenching rains; taking care, however, to protect the pot from full exposure to the sun's rays, either by plunging it, or setting it inside of another of larger size, that the fibres within be not scorched; removing them inside the house before danger of frost; giving them the lightest and airiest position; when in winter and spring they will reward you with blossoms nearly as numerous as the leaves on the well-ripened shoots. When done flowering, cut the shoots back; keep the plants rather close until they break afresh, after which the general routine must again commence. There are numerous species, and some beautiful hybrids. We have already indicated what we consider the four most beautiful species.

PROPAGATION of approved kinds, by cuttings of the points of the young shoots taken off in spring, and placed in in suitable soil covered with white sand, and inclosed with a bell-glass. The young shoots, just as they begin to break, with a small heel of the older wood, strike freely, either with or without a bed with bottom-heat. When struck, plant three or four round the sides of a three-inch pot. R. FISH.

HOTHOUSE DEPARTMENT.

EXOTIC ORCHIDACEE.

PLANTS REQUIRING PECULIAR TREATMENT.

CYPRIPEDIUM. This genus recommends its species to the favour of the cultivator on three accounts. first, because they all produce handsome flowers that last a considerable time in bloom; secondly, because several species have leaves prettily marbled; and, thirdly, they are easily cultivated and propagated with the peculiar treatment we are about to describe.

Cypripedium barbatum (Bearded Venus's Slipper).— Sepals and petals brownish purple; labellum whitish, with reddish stripes; leaves mottled.

C. purpuratum (Purple Venus's Slipper).-Very like the former, but the purple deeper, and labellum more clearly marked; leaves more vividly mottled.

C. insigne (Noble Venus's Slipper).-Sepals and petals yellowish green, shaded with red and spotted with brown, the centre petal has the end tipped with pure white; the labellum is orange, tinged on the outside with rich brown; leaves green.

C. venustum (Beautiful Venus's Slipper).-The flowers are yellowish green, tinged with bright red; the outside of the labellum is of a light greenish brown, veined with dark brown; leaves mottled.

Cypripedium Lowii (Low's) and C. caudatum (Tailed Venus's Slipper) are two species introduced by Messrs. Low and Co., Nurserymen of Clapton, from Borneo. The latter is very curious and handsome, each sepal and petal being lengthened so as to have the appearance of tails; hence its specific name. We have only seen dried specimens, so cannot describe the colours. We have been told that the C. Lowii is not very handsome. (There are several species natives of N. America, and one even is found in Britain, all worth growing; but as they do not require hothouse, or even greenhouse treatment, we shall not mention their culture in this place.) They all belong to that division of orchids we have named "terrestrial," aud grow best in turfy-loam, fibrous peat, and leaf-mould, in equal parts, with some coarse river sand to keep the compost open. March is a good time to pot them; let the pots be well-drained. They love plenty of water from the potting time till August, but from thence to March again only just enough to keep them from flagging. We have found them to do well in a pit during the summer months, without any shade, and with but little air; in this pit they grew strong, produced fine, highly-coloured leaves, and flowered remarkably well the spring following. We know but little of their native habitats, whether they grow on plains, in thickets, or other shady places, but from the fact of their thriving well in an unshaded pit facing the south, we should suppose they are found in open places in their native country. They will grow and flower well even in a common stove, but not so well in a greenhouse, excepting during the summer months. In places where there are vineries, or pine-stoves, these plants may be set upon the kerb-stones, or on shelves, or on a platform over the pipes, or in any other convenient place, among such plants as gloxinias, achimenes, gesneras, &c., where they will grow and flower well, and be an ornament and a variety among the other plants. In fact, numbers of the terrestrial species of orchids would be benefited by being placed in such situations; more air being required for the regular inhabitants of such houses than is usually given, or is prudent to give, to the orchidaceous house,

and these terrestrial orchids requiring it, they are proportionably benefited thereby. Indeed, most orchids when in bloom would last much longer in flower if they were removed into the cool stove whilst in that state. Barkerias, Cattleyas, Lolias, Dendrobiums, some Epidendrums, and other Mexican species, will bear this treatment, but we would not advise the removal from the orchid-house of such species as come from the hot jungles of Java, Borneo, and Hindostan,-such, for instance, as all the species of Erides, Saccolabium, and Vanda. These, having no pseudo-bulbs, and producing frequently fleshy roots in the moist air of the orchid-house, would suffer much by the change from a moist atmosphere to a comparatively dry one; we must, therefore, be content to bloom them in their own house.

FLORISTS' FLOWERS.

CARNATIONS AND PICOTEES.-The time has come to put these flowers into their blooming pots. We are now busy potting our winter stores-that is, removing them out of the pots they have been in through winter into the blooming pots, 12 inches wide at the top, and 10 inches deep. At page 119 of vol. i., every particular about potting, soil, pots, &c., is given; and to that place we refer our readers. For the benefit of such as may not possess the first volume, we will as briefly as possible give the substance of the directions. The soil we prefer is-loam, made of turf from an old pasture, three-parts; very rotten dung, one-part; rotten leaves, one-part; one-sixteenth soot, and onesixteenth river sand. Mix and turn over once a month for a year before using. If old pots are used, clean them well in hot water; drain effectually, and pot firmly, rather deeper than the old surface. Place them under shelter of some kind for a month longer, previously to putting them on the blooming stage, which is described on the 110th page of the first volume of THE COTTAGE GARDENER.

THE OLD CLOVE CARNATION.-Though this is not strictly a florists' flower, yet on account of its beauty and agreeable fragrance there are few florists that do not grow a few pairs of it-at least, they did formerly; but in the rage for novelty it often happens that an old deserving flower is thought but little of, and is neglected. This is the case with the clove carnation. This variety, in its true state, is a good formed flower, of a dark crimson colour, with a rose edge, by which is meant an edge without serratums or teeth; the petals should have the outermost edge perfectly smooth and flat. Now this good old variety is nearly lost. We shall refer to this subject again shortly. T. APPLEBY.

THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. ROUTINE WORK.-A busy and interesting season has now arrived, when both energy and perseverance are required with regard to cropping, cleanliness, and the establishment of good order, as well as some degree of forethought, as to what crops are to succeed one another on each spot of ground. Previously to sowing and planting at this season, encourage the growth of the early cabbage by frequent surface-stirrings, and the application of liquid-manure; the earliest crop will be taken off in time for the second planting of kidney beans. Let the cabbage-seed sown be of the best kinds, such as Atkins' Matchless, Nonpareil, Shilling's Queen, the Early York, and all such moderate-sized growing kinds which are quick in coming in, and produce a nice compact head, with

but few outside leaves. Expel all starters from the main crop as soon as discovered, and make out such vacancies with good strong plants. Plant the winter saved plants of the Red Dutch, and sow a little more seed also for the pigs and cattle, or even for the next autumn and winter for culinary use. The drum-head (also termed flat pole by some) or cattle cabbage is a good variety for this purpose. Plant out also the winter stored plants.

CAULIFLOWERS.-Sow little and often; plant out in succession from the winter store plants, and encourage those now growing under hand-glasses with applications of tepid liquid-manure after the surface of the earth has been well stirred, taking care as the plants grow on, to earth up and raise the hand-lights, so as to afford room enough for the leaves to grow without becoming crippled. A small sowing of Cape brocoli and celery should also be made, as well as celeriac. Sow also spinach-little and often, underground onions, and the store bulbs of the two-bladed onion. Those transplanted from the autumn-sown beds should be looked to, as well as shallots and garlic; observe whether any have been removed by worms or frost, and if so replace them, giving, at the same time, the whole surface a good stirring between them. Take care that the ground for springsown crops of onions, carrots, and parsnips is now speedily got into good condition, and let the onions and parsnips be sown in good order in full crops before the 21st of March. Early carrots should be sown now, but the full crop of large-growing late kinds are best deferred until the last week of the month, or the beginning of April. Everything in the shape of refuse lying about should at once be charred for drilling in with the seeds. Our practice always is to drill everything, as we consider it of great consequence as far as regards the after-management, the thinning, surface-stirring, &c., all which is afterwards performed with much greater expedition and economy.

Plant out in succession the winterstored lettuce, and prick the early spring-sown, as soon as they can be handled, on a little warmth, or in a well-protected situation. Globe artichokes should have their winter's protection removed, the small, weakly suckers at once taken away, which will encourage those intended for producing the season's crop, as well as those intended to be used for making new plantations next month. Sow parsley in full crop, angelica, salsafy, scorzonera, radishes, leeks, and rampions. Look to the herb-bed. Sow chervil, replant chives, pot-marjoram. Plant out lavender, and put in fresh cuttings. Top-dress the mint-bed, and make fresh plantations as soon as the shoots are two or three inches in length. Tarragon requires the same treatment. Sow thyme and winter savoys. Plant out Lemon thyme, chamomile, fennel, and hyssop. Layer and peg down the last year's wood made by sage, and make new beds from the last year's layered plants.

FRAMING CUCUMBERS.-Maintain a brisk kind of heat; air freely in the fore part of the day; and shut up early, sprinkling down the interior of the structure with tepid water, sometimes mixing a little manure-water with it, just to charge the atmosphere with ammonia. Stop or pinch out the points in due season of all young shoots which may show fruit at every joint; all young plants stop at the first joint; then allow them to make three joints previously to stopping again; on their next breaking they will most likely show fruit. Sow in succession, so as to keep up a sufficient stock of young plants as may be required.

FRAME POTATOES, that may be at this season freely growing, should be examined, to ascertain whether they are getting too dry; if so, apply tepid water, but by no means be too liberal in its application, as it might be likely to make the tubers close and watery, and be an encouragement to disease, should it appear. With us, up to the present time, the early crops of potatoes are very healthy and clear from any disease.

RHUBARB. This very useful vegetable may be forwarded at least a fortnight, by merely inverting good large flower or sea-kale-pots over each crown. Search out the crowns with some care, so as not to injure them, and finger them round well, to see that there are no slugs in any crevices or corners; if any are found, give a good dusting of quick lime, and on with the pots immediately. Advantage should be taken of any dry hour in the day to do such sort of work as this.

PEAS. The present is a good time for sowing a row or two of any of the tall Wrinkled Marrowfat peas. I have generally found it a good plan to sow these Knight's tall-growing peas in solitary rowsthat is, a row here and there about the garden; the plant is the more open to light and air, and is, consequently, much more productive. Neither is there so much harbour for the sparrows to secrete among them, as when sown in parallel rows over a whole quarter together.

BROAD BEANS may still be planted in full crops, or a few rows as a succession to the principal crops which were planted in November.

ASPARAGUS BEDS.-The spring dressings should now be attended to; take the digging-fork and carefully fork them over; break the soil and manure it well up together; that is, give plenty of labour, but be careful not to injure the crowns in so doing. Pick out all sticks and stones, as it often happens that such matters come in with the manure. If you particularly wish to finish the beds on the same day, do so; but if not, as in some heavy soils, the beds would be as well, and perhaps much better, if forked up about the first week in March; breaking the earth pretty well, and then letting them remain so for a week or ten days; then, on some fine day, rake them off neatly, raking the refuse into the alleys. The beds being made complete, the refuse may be forked in, in the alleys, the whole being made neat, and a row of lettuce may be planted along the centre of each alley. J. BARNES & W.

MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.

OUR VILLAGE WALKS.
(No. 22.)

Ir is very cheering once more to see the cottagegarden and cottage-allotments in activity, and daily increasing in interest and beauty; but I miss the potato or rather, I should say, I miss the ground that used at this season to be waiting for its accustomed crop. The cottager has patiently planted his potatoes every year since the fatal disease attacked them, hoping that he might rejoice still in a fair return from this most valuable root; but this season he seems to have given up the attempt, or the seed was too scarce and dear to be procured. Lines of light, delicate green now fill the narrow strips of the allotment ground; very few patches are left unoccupied; and the summer beauty of the gardens will consist chiefly in the waving corn, and thick masses of swedes, instead of the rich foliage of the neatly-hoed

potatoes. The loss of this root has been seriously felt by the poor; it has fallen heavily upon them, and has deprived them of one of their principal sources of profit and enjoyment. Bread is allowed to be the staff of life; but bread alone-merciful as is the gift-is not so nourishing, so comfortable to the poor, as a dish of hot potatoes. They seem to warm and satisfy the stomach more than a crust of dry bread, which, in the district where I live, is the chief food of the labouring classes-" and," as many, many have said quietly and unrepiningly, “not enough of that." The potato disease bears the impress of God's hand, deeply and clearly; it comes immediately from Him. Men have tried unweariedly and scientifically to discover its origin; they have endeavoured to assign this reason, or that cause, but in vain; it is not this or that; it stands boldly and awfully before our eyes as one of God's "sore judg ments;" and the poor view it as such. They set us a bright example. Science, learning, and unbelief, sometimes walk hand-in-hand, and lay subtle traps for the "wise and prudent;" but the poor look directly to the hand that "gives them their food in due season," and if it fails, they know from whence the affliction comes. Were it not for this firm conviction, how much we should lament for the privation that has befallen the people! But let us remember the declaration of God himself, when "his arrows went abroad" among the Jewish people: "Your iniquities have turned away these things, and your sins have withholden good things from you." This is the secret of a nation's adversities-of the famine-the pestilence the mildew-and of all the troubles and evils that befal the people. Let us "hear the rod, and who has appointed it." Let us humble ourselves before the just chastening of an Almighty Father, and in these days of pressure, of doubt, and of perplexity, let us look to Him only for deliverance.

The way in which the poor dress their favourite vegetable has always been a subject of regret to me, because it is so difficult to persuade them to alter their long-established habits, and do anything in a way in which they were never used to do it. If you see the lid removed from the large black saucepan boiling on the fire, you will find the water bubbling over a heap of potatoes, lying hidden beneath the flood, soaked and sodden. When the water is poured off, and the potatoes placed in the dish, they are swimming in liquid, and cut open like pieces of soap, instead of looking dry, floury, and enticing. A dish of "laughing" potatoes is seldom seen in Englandthey are drowned in water; and are as unwholesome to the stomach as unpleasing to the eye. Potatoes should never be peeled before boiling, but placed in the pot in their skins, with only a little water at the bottom, just to prevent the lower ones from burning, and to produce steam. Cover them with the lid, and let them steam till they are soft. When a fork will pass through them, place the pot by the side of the fire, remove the lid, and let the steam pass off. In this situation they will keep hot till they are wanted, and will then be floury and wholesome, and ten times more agreeable to the taste. I wish I may induce some of my cottage readers, who still possess, or can procure them, to dress them in this way, and try if they are not nicer and more wholesome both for themselves and their children, who are generally so fond of potatoes as to eat them whether good or bad; and when such lumps of indigestible food are swallowed, with little else to afford nourishment, weakness and disease naturally ensue. In Guernsey, the lower classes steam their potatoes in a large