mutilated by your neighbour, can only maintain a lingering existence, unless the snags break out strongly; and if not, then the longer the timber stands the less worth it will be, as it will be full of rotten knots.

LOUDON'S HORTUS BRITTANICUS (Rev. H. W.).-A second supplement and a general index of this work, including all plants known down to March, 1839, has been published.

LIQUID-MANURE TANK (H. R., Essex).-Your old steam-engine boiler will answer for this purpose admirably. Its being of iron will not injure the manure, nor the plants to which this is applied.

GOOSEBERRY AND CURRANT CUTTINGS (A. R.). Never mind what the market-gardeners tell you, you were quite right in removing from the cuttings all the buds that were to be buried in the earth. It you cut out the buds deep enough you will not be bothered with suckers.

A BOWER.-R. Reynoldson says, "I have on one side of my little summer-house a horse-chesnut, and on the other a sycamore--halfgrown trees; and it strikes me they, and my summer-house too, would be made more pleasing objects, if I could train up some hardy climbers round the naked stems." Nothing can look better than a summer-house within a bower, as you propose, by getting climbers to run up the trees around it. There is not the least fear to be apprehended by cutting some old roots, to make room for a tar, or any other barrel or vessel, only keep strictly to our rules. All the climbing roses which we have often recommended are peculiarly suitable for this kind of decoration, because we know where to apply our liquid-manure to their roots; for, after all, what are these contrivances but immense pots? And by pouring doses of moderate strength into them regularly, throughout the growing season, we have our climbers just as much under our own control as the geranium on the window-sill. Honeysuckles, clematis, Virginian creeper (ampelopsis), jasmines, the sweet-scented grape-vine (vitis odoratissima), Aristolochia sipho, and many others you will find mentioned in previous numbers; and, of course, half-hardy climbers, as Maurandia, Lophospermus, Cobea, Eccremocarpus, &c,, may be planted in summer for additional decoration, and for filling the bottom. You will recollect that Mr. Beaton closed abruptly his observations, but he, probably, will take it up again, and finish it.

TREE MIGNONETTE (E. B. W.).-Your plants, "now running into weak spindly flowers," have been either stifled for want of pure air, since last October, or their roots have perished through some fault in the soil, drainage, or watering; but to know what is the real cause is not in our power. You certainly did not injure them by nipping off the tops; and, as soon as you read this, take a sharp knife, and cut off all the "spindly" parts down to the last four leaves on each shoot; turn the plants out of doors every fine day for a few hours, and do not water oftener than twice a week till the end of March, and if the roots are right you will see them thrive rapidly. The long-continued frosts of January, and the soft muggy weather at the beginning of February, have caused a great prevalence of spindly growth, in most places, through want of air.

PURCHASING PLANTS (Ibid).-The proper time to purchase plants is late in the spring and early in the antumn. All bulbs ought to be bought while they are at rest, and that is the only absolute rule; plants in general are bought at all times.

CLIMBERS AMONG TREES.-A Parson's Wife inquires for some that will succeed among a group of trees, in good ground, near water. Clematis montana, C. flammula, or, indeed, any of those mentioned in Mr. Beaton's list will suit you; also young Glycine sinensis, Aristolochia sipho-for its handsome foliage, honeysuckles, jasmines, climbing roses of all sorts. And you may try also Solanum jasminoides; it has lived out at Shrubland Park this winter without the least protection. The blue passion flower would also suit you; and if cut down in winter, a barrowful of leaves put over the roots would preserve them from frost, and they would bloom every year; and the same treatment would do for the Manderilla, which in a good aspect would be likely to flower. The Torenia asiatica will not do for beds or borders generally.

NEAPOLITAN VIOLETS (Ibid).-You confirm the statement that the runners of the Neapolitan violet do not flower the first year, by saying, "mine, which were simply pegzed down last summer, are covered with buds." But the wording of the statement was not so clear to you as to us gardeners, and such instances will stimulate us still further to write more minutely.

Cow URINE (An Inquirer).--This, if fresh from a cow-house, is too strong for any thing! We write emphatically, to guard our readers against the use of strong doses. One bucketful to four of water will be strong enough.

VINES FOR GREENHOUSE (Ibid).-"A dozen kinds of grapevines" are by far too many for your greenhouse. The Black Hamburgh is the best black grape for a greenhouse, and the next best black one is the Black Prince. The best white is the Royal Muscadine, and the next best white is the Sweet Water, but this is a bad setter, unless the bunches are shaken daily while in flower, to disperse the pollen. The Chasselas Musque is the very best white grape in cultivation, but is liable to crack when nearly ripe. A dry house, with abundance of air, prevents this cracking. The White and the Black Frontignan are two excellent grapes for a greenhouse, but the plants are of a tender constitution, and ought to be grafted on the Black Hamburgh. The Verdelho is a strong, hardy, white grape, but the bunches and berries are small.

THE SLATER (Ibid).-The flattish blue insect which troubles you on the peach-tree is, we believe, the woodlouse, known in some districts as "the Slater." It is a troublesome one to keep down. Gastar, as you propose, would do little good; you had better trap them, by laying down pots on their sides, with a little dry moss in them: the creatures will lodge under the moss, and you can empty the pots daily and destroy the insects.

MISTLETOE-SEED (Ibid).-We cannot forward the seeds as you propose, but if you will send us a stamped envelope, with your address, and with the word "Mistletoe" written inside, we shall

hand it over to a friend who has promised to supply them; and if any more of our readers want seeds of the plant this season, we ought to have their envelopes forthwith, as the seeds will be over for this year.

FLOWER-BEDS (Novitius).-You wish to fill twelve small beds with as many kinds of flowers which will keep gay as long as possible. If you have no "furnishing" plants on hand, and cannot buy many, you must put up with annuals; and Mr. Beaton will describe all the best annuals about the middle of March, and the proper way of treating them, so as to keep up a cheap succession of flowers all the summer; meantime procure those annuals he wrote about late last autumn. BELL-GLASSES FOR BEES (Juventus).- Bees can see to work in very slightly illuminated places; they would coat the inside of the glasses with wax, if they were not covered over so as to exclude the light. Geraniums and fuchsias might be kept through the winter under hand-glasses, if trouble and labour were no object, to exclude the frost, give air, &c., &c. The mould may be dispensed with in striking cuttings in phials of water. You will find your other questions answered in previous volumes, if you will refer to the indexes. DARK CLIMBING ROSE (E. Ward).-Crimson Boursault would suit you.

MAKING HOTBEDS (Original Subscriber).-Every one of your questions are anticipated at pp. 146 and 163 of the present volume.

PLANTING POTATOES (Enquirer).-Plant every potato you intend to plant without a day's delay. A foot apart in the row, and two feet between the rows, are good average distances. The tall-growing varieties had better be six inches further apart. Read our "twelve golden rules," at p. 72.

SUPER-PHOSPHATE OF LIME (Bank).-This is a salt composed of phosphoric acid and lime. It is made for manure, by dissolving bones in oil of vitriol.

LIQUID MANURE FOR CELERY (Ibid).-A bucket full of the drainage from a stable, added to four buckets of water, will answer your purpose; or any of the liquid manures mentioned by Mr. Turner, and other celery-growers. See our indexes.

BLACK-BEETLES (J. A. R.).—If we had space to spare, we would insert your very amusing letter. The cat would not eat the phosphorus paste, nor could she get at it if you put it into holes and crevices. If you cannot make it, buy some of the phosphorus pills prepared by Mr. Purser, 40, Bridge-street, Blackfriars.

BARKERIA (G. B. C.).—We are obliged by your correction. This genus, as you state, was named after the late George Barker, Esq., the justly esteemed orchid-grower as Birmingham. We published "The Modern Gardener's Dictionary," which, though not "explaining every term," may suit your purpose.

ROSES BUDDED LAST JULY (R. P. G.).—These being budded in hedgerows, you had better cut down the stocks to the buds, and move them into your garden next November. If you move them now, you will injure the buds probably.

CELERY SPLITTING (Ibid).The soil about the stems, if too wet and clayey, will cause them to split and canker. Order the Indexes through your bookseller; we have no stamped copies to send by post. PLUMBAGO LARPENTE (Verax). Your plants, now dry and withered, should have their tops cut off when the plants begin to grow.

CASTRUM AURANTIACUM (Ibid).-This, received by you in frosty weather, has become withered. Though a hardy greenhouse plant, the frost has injured it. Cut it down near to the pot, and try it in a gentle hotbed. Perhaps the roots are safe.

3

2

5

therefore, be sown in the bed any time in April. In Nos. 2 and 4, Nemophylla insignis; sown in the first week in April, and will transplant. To succeed it, sow Viscaria occulata in an open border about the 20th of May, and

NOTT'S CELERY (Ibid).-You can obtain it of Mr. Nutt, near St. John's Church, Park, Sheffield. You could have a bark bed for pines in your vinery. You will much oblige us by sending us a few of the seeds you name. It must be a variety of the Kohl Rabi. BEDS OF FLOWERS OF ONE COLOUR (A Lady Subscriber).-You have two sets of beds, each set arranged in this order; your garden is exposed to the winds and sun, and in a cold part of Yorkshire. To meet your wishes, that the flowers may be low and shrubby, put in bed No. 1, Eschscholtzia crocea, sown as proposed. It will not transplant, and must transplant it when the Nemophylla has done flowering at the end of July. In Nos. 3 or 5, whichever of them is nearest the walk or windows, Saponaria calabrica. Sow it under a hand-glass about the middle of March, and transplant it about the end of May, or a little earlier if your plants are strong. It will flower on to October. In Nos. 5 or 3, the one farthest from the window or walk, Eucharidium concinnum grandiflorum. Sow it in the bed on the 1st of April; and sow Sweet Alyssum about the middle of May, to transplant after the Eucharidium; all these will carry you on to October. In the middle of the second set of beds plant Tagetes tenuifolia, from seeds sown under a hand-glass about the middle of August; and we shall ask Mr. Beaton to furnish you with a different set of annuals for the other beds; but we would repeat the others.

COMMELINA COLESTIS (W.).-There is no such plant as Camilla celesta; is it not Commelina cœlestis? If so, put the seeds in a cucumber frame till they vegetate, and harden them off; plant them in a rich border about the end of May. They will be two feet high by the autumn, and will then flower; but the frost will kill the tops, but you can save the roots, and treat them as dahlia roots.

DOUBLE ANEMONE (Ibid).-Sow your double anemone now in a box of rich light soil; place it in a cold frame till the seedlings appear, and then harden them off to stand out of doors in some sheltered place.

LILIUM SPECIOSUM SEED (Ibid).--Sow in a cucumber bed, and

304

when the seedlings are three inches long, harden them off to stand in a cold pit. If your seeds are true, you have a treasure.

CAMELLIA BUDS FALLING (Ibid).-Your large camellias were not half watered while they stood in the passage in your house, and the air of such a place will never grow camellias to bloom well. They should never get very dry at the roots.

SMALL PIT (A. Z.).-You ought to be able to get inside your nice pit in bad weather from either end. A passage through the middle, 18 inches wide, would be sufficient; and to get head room, you might sink this passage. Then you would have a back shelf, as you propose, up to the chimney, and one along the whole front; and if you were hard up for room, the passage might be covered with a moveable stage or shelf, but we should prefer it without this.

MELILOT CLOVER.-We have had some seed of these sent to us; and, finding that they have been cultivated by a friend, it will be useful to publish his experience. He says: "I experimented, for several years, with several Melilots, but have not found them sufficiently profitable, or convenient, to induce me to pursue their culture. In the first place, do not let your cows get at them, for they impart an abominable taste to milk and butter. They are biennials; very productive, but very difficult to manage. One-Trifolium melilotus sibericum, which I received under the name, I think, of Candahar clover-in rich and trenched soil, grew fourteen feet high; but, in that state, the base of the stalk was as big as my two thumbs, and so ligneous, that it could not be cut with a common scythe. You would require a short, strong scythe, such as the Welchmen cut furze with. If you had a furze-cutting machine, wherewith to reduce it into fragments of an inch in length, it might make fodder for elephants, hippopotami, or giraffes! or any animal that crunches the branches of trees. Perhaps a horse might pick a little of it; but it would be too woody for him to eat it all in its adult state; nor does the horse much like it. I saved between one and two acres for sheep-feed, and put in the sheep as soon as the flowers appeared, before it had attained half its stature. The sheep ate of the leaves and buds, and the top part of the stalks, but left a great part of the stalks standing. It, therefore, seems difficult to appropriate its vast produce in any catable and profitable form. It will appear, from what I have said, that A neighbour of mine, who it would be an unsuitable crop for hay.

saved a crop for sheep, said that he could not get his sheep to eat it at all. Mine did eat what was tender. Whether, if it were depastured continually from its first springing, it would answer better, I cannot say perhaps it might; but I have not tried. I also tried the Bullock Melilot of America, but its character was nearly the same, If these continued though it was not quite so gigantic as the other. succulent up to the time of their attaining their full growth, I think they might be rendered valuable; but their rigidity present difficulties, which I shall be glad to see some ingenious adapter overcome. I should add, that my Asiatic species was white-flowered, and my American yellow-flowered; and it is possible, that these two species which you have sent may present some difference of growth or habit, which may render them more available; but, from having also cultivated the Melilotus macrorhiza of Hungary, and Melilotus officinalis of Britain, and Melilotus cæruleus, I find their habits so much alike, that I should not be sanguine in my hope of their utility. The produce of seed is enormous from all of them, so that the experiment may be easily tried."

CALENDAR FOR MARCH.

FLOWER GARDEN.

GREENHOUSE.

FRUIT GARDEN.

APRICOTS, prune, if before neglected, b.; young ones, head down. APPLES, dress for blight. BLOSSOMS of wall-fruit, protect. CURRANTS, finish planting and pruning, b. ESPALIERS, generally finish FORKregulating, b. FIGS, plant; make layers; plant cuttings. OVER the borders and quarters, if betore omitted. GoOSEBERRIES, GRAFTING, in prune, if before neglected, b.; finish planting, b. mild weather, is best done this month. SCIONS, prepare. HOEING MULCH round the trees newly-planted, cannot be done too often. MEDLARS, MULBERRIES, and NECto keep the roots moist. TARINES, neglected before, prune, b.; young, head down. PEARS, carefully prune and train. PLANTING, omitted, complete, b. (See Feb.) PRUNING, in general, complete, without fail, b. BERRIES, fish planting, b. STRAWBERRIES, finish dressing, b.; plant. STANDARD ORCHARD-TREES, finish pruning, b. for stocks, may be planted (See Feb.) SUPPORT, with stakes, trees newly-planted. STOCKS, raise from seeds of apples, pears, quinces, and mediars. TRENCH, &c., ground for planting. VINES, finish pruning without fail, b.; plant cuttings, and make layers. WAL

NUTS, P.

RASP

SUCKERS,

In Grafting, commence with plums and cherries; but scions on the latter, if inserted on large trees, seldom succeed. Loose branches and last year's shoots of pears and other fruit-trees, trained as pyraR. ERRINGTON. midals, fasten in their proper positions.

FORCING DEPARTMENT.

AIR, admit freely. APHIDES, destroy in all forcing structures by fumigation. ASPARAGUS, provide succession. CHERRIES ripening require but little water. CAPSICUMS, SOW, b. Forward CUCUMBERS, PLANTS to flower in to replace those which fruited in winter. pots, continue to introduce. KIDNEY BEANS, provide successions. LEAVES, clean by the sponge and syringe. MUSHROOм bed for spring, make. PINES require more water and greater heat; syringe their crowns; give liquid manure; shift into larger pots. PEACHES, thin; the day temperature for them should not exceed 70°; disbud; trim; water abundantly. PROPAGATE hothouse plants by slips, cuttings, suckers, and layers, according to the plant's nature; it is the best season. SEEDLINGS of culinary plants, remove to a cooler place. STRAWBERRIES in pots, continue forcing. TEMPERATURE for pines should be about 85° at midday, and during night 60°; in the flower-stove 65° and 55°. SULPHUR, apply on flues and pipes to TOMATOES, destroy red spider. TOBACCO fumigations continue.

VINES are now all in motion; thin; train; keep well sow, b. supplied with liquid manure; air, keep moist, except to those in blossom; but be cautious, or the mildew may visit you; temp. as R. ERRINGTON. last month. MELONS, provide succession.

KITCHEN GARDEN. ANGELICA, SOw or plant. ARTICHOKES, dress; plant. ASPARAGUS, BALM, plant. BASIL, SOW. sow; plant; force; and dress beds. BEANS. plant; earth up. BEET (red, white, and green), sow. Borage, sow. BORECOLE, SOW, e. BROCOLI, SOW; mark for seed. BURNET, plant and sow. CABBAGES, plant; earth up; sow. CAPSICUM, SOW, e. CARDOONS, sow, e. CARRAWAY, SOW. CARROTS, sow, e.; main crop. CAULIFLOWERS, plant from frames; give air to those under glass; prick out spring-raised: sow, b. CELERIAC, SOW. CELERY, CHERVIL, SOw. sow; dress and earth up. CHAMOMILE, plant. CHIVES, plant. CLARY, SOW. CRESS (American), sow. COMPOSTS, prepare. CORIANDER, sow, e. CORN SALAD, Sow. CUCUMBERS, sow; prick out; plant; impregnate those under glass, &c, DILL, HOR generally in SOW. FENNEL, sow or plant. GARLICK, plant.

Sow.

dry weather. HORSE-RADISH, plant. HYSSOP, sow, e. JERUSALEM ARTICHOKES, plant. KALE (Sea), plant or sow; force. KIDNEY BEANS, SOW, e., in slight hotbed, to be protected; attend to those forcing. LEEKS, sow. LETTUCES, Sow; prick out, and plant out from frames. LIQUID MANURE, give to Cabbages, &c. MARIGOLDS, MELONS SOW, for succession, or MARJORAM, sow and plant. strike cuttings. MINT, plant; clean beds. MUSHROOM BEDS, attend to; make. MUSTARD and CRESS, SOW. NASTURTIUMS, SOW. ONIONS, sow main crop; transplant autumn-raised; plant for seed, b.; (Potato and Tree), plant. ORACH, Sow. PARSLEY (Com. and Hamb.), sow. PARSNIPS, Sow, e.; main crop. PEAS, sow; earth up; stick, &c. POMPIONS and PURSLANE, SOw, e. PENNYROYAL, plant. RADISHES, sow; thin. RAMPION, SOW. RAPE (com, and edible-rooted), sow, c. RHUBARB, Sow, b.; plant, b. ROCAMBOLE, ROSEMARY, and RUE, plant. SAGE and SHALOTS, plant. SALSAFY and SCORZONERA, SOW. SAVOYS, SOW; lay in for sprouts. SEA-KALE, Sow in patches, in a prepared bed. SKIRRETS and SUCCORY, SOW. SORRELS, plant and SPINACH, SOw; weed, &c. TANSY and TARRAGON, plant. TETRAGONIA and THYME, sow, e. TOMATOES, sow, e. TURNIPS, SOW, b. e.; or once a fortnight.

SOW.

LONDON: Printed by HARRY WOOLDRIDGE, Winchester High Street, in the Parish of St. Mary Kalendar; and Published by WILLIAM SOMERVILLE ORR, at the Office, No. 2, Ainen Corner, in the Parish of Christ Church, City of London.-February 28, 1850.

PERPETUA is recorded by some authorities as a Roman maiden, who suffered martyrdom for refusing to abjure Christianity during the fifth general persecution of its believers under the Emperor Severus. Other authorities state that she was a matron, and that her firmness when sentenced, and separated from the child upon her bosom, was said to have influenced, even to conversion, her judge. Hillarian. She was exposed, A.D. 205, to the attacks of an enraged bull; but the sword of the executioner had to complete the murder.

GREGORY, surnamed THE GREAT, has been described as "the worst bishop of all that went before him, and the best of all that came after him" He is called by our historian, Bede, "the Apostle of England;" and although he was not the introducer of Christianity into these islands, yet Augustine, whom he sent hither, was the means of converting the chief of the heathen inhabitants. He was raised

to the pontifical chair about the year 590, and died in 604. Our ignorant forefathers had a custom on this anniversary that is thus recorded:-"Some are so superstitiously inclined, as upon the night of St. Gregory's day to have their children asked the question in their sleep, whether they have any mind to book, or no?' and if they say yes,' they count it a very good presage; but if the children answer nothing, or nothing to that purpose, they put them over to the plough."

METEOROLOGY OF THE WEEK.-During the last twenty-three years, the average highest temperature of these days has been 51.2°, and the average lowest temperature 33.8°. The number of days on which rain fell was 64, and 97 days were fine. The greatest heat was on the 9th in 1826, when the mercury rose to 68°; and the greatest cold was on the 10th in 1847, when it fell to 7°.

INSECTS.-We have lately had the opportunity of seeing several specimens of the widely celebrated Death Watch, so named

Because, like a watch, it always cries click;
Then woe be to those in the house who are sick!
But a kettle of scalding-hot water injected

Infallibly cures the timber affected:

The omen is broken, the danger is over;

The beetle will die, and the sick will recover.

It belongs to a genus of minute beetles named Anobium, and the most common is A. tesselatus; but that which it very closely resembles, and which we shall describe, is A. striatum. Our drawing represents it magnified, and of the natural size. The antennæ are red, and the three last joints longer and more club-form than the others. The body and legs brown; the wing-cases greyish, and marked with slightly impressed parallel lines. These insects burrow

NATURAL PHENOMENA INDICATIVE OF WEATHER: Lilies. -Although not strictly relevant, we may observe under this head that all the lilies have their marked time of blooming the daffodil, or Lent lily, early in March; the lily of the valley in the middle of May; the Orange lily at the commencement of June, and the White lily during mid-July. March dust and May sun, both implying a fine dry spring, have for centuries been regarded as a good omen for the husbandman; and there is no doubt of a dry spring being the usual forerunner of a productive summer. Every one knows the old adage relating to this, which values "a peck of March dust" as high as "a king's ransom."

holes in old wood; and in the spring commence the ticking noise which is so ominous in the eyes of the superstitious. The noise is made by the insect striking its jaws or mandibles against the wood, and is a call to its mate, which, if not answered. is repeated in another place. The number of ticks at once usually varies from seven to eleven, and are repeated at uncertain intervals. The insect abounds in many old houses, and may be heard during the whole day, though most noticed during the stillness of

night. It will often answer to a gentle tapping with the finger nail. The larve pierce old furniture, and other woodwork; and some species ravage flowers, natural history specimens, &c.

Ar the present season, when the judicious gardener, to protect the roots of his newly-planted trees and shrubs from the drying winds, has recourse to mulching, or covering the soil above them with long dung, or other substances, which will prevent injurious evaporation, the following remarks from a very judicious correspondent are particularly opportune:

"During the last autumn, I visited the grounds of a florist who is celebrated for growing dahlias. Observing that large masses of dung were placed around each of the plants, I inquired of the person

No. LXXV., VOL. III.

who shewed the grounds, what purposes were intended by these mulchings? He replied,First, to keep the roots cool; and, secondly, to supply the plants with liquid manure when it rained, or when they were watered by the hand.' Now, as much has of late been written on the subject of mulching, it may not be unprofitable to say a few words on the use and abuse of this practice.

"To apply myself to the first object intended by the mulching of plants, namely, to keep their roots cool,' it may be asked, Why should one part of a tree be kept in a cooler state than the other parts? why permit the leaves and branches to receive the benefit

of the solar and atmospheric influences, whilst these advantages are withheld from the roots? Strange that persons who know that bottom-heat is necessary to induce a cutting to emit roots, should in practice admit that, in its subsequent stages of growth, the plant is benefited by keeping its roots cooler than its head. Those persons who grow grapes, and who unfortunately have the vines placed in the border, find their great difficulty to be when the roots are chilled by cold rains in the early part of the season, whilst the leaves and fruit are growing under glass in a temperature of, perhaps, 20 above that in which the roots are placed. Why then voluntarily attempt to create an almost equal difficulty,' by keeping the roots of a tree in the border several degrees below the temperature which the other parts enjoy?

In other

"It is admitted, that the practice of mulching trees in hot weather greatly diminishes the labour of watering them. But then it should be considered whether this advantage is not obtained by sacrifices that more than counterbalance the benefit. words, that by depriving the roots of the advantages of the solar and atmospheric influences, by surrounding the tree with heavy coatings of dung, a greater injury is perpetrated than can be compensated by the diminished labour of watering. And, with respect to the benefit which it is alleged that the tree derives from the mulching, in the form of liquidmanure from the rains, &c., it may be briefly answered that, after the mulching has been exposed for a few weeks to the action of the sun and air, its nutritive properties have been already, for the most part, washed into the ground, or dissipated into the atmosphere, and the mulching reduced almost to a mere caput mortuum; encumbering the plant, and depriving the root of the beneficial influences of the sun and air. The occasional applications of liquidmanure would, surely, more effectually invigorate the tree, whilst the ground could in that case be kept open by the repeated use of the fork and the rake.

"But the mulching of trees has, doubtless, its uses, and very important uses too. Every tree planted in the autumn should be mulched, but for the very contrary reason of keeping the roots cool.' These trees should be mulched for the purpose of retaining as long as possible the solar heat imparted to the earth during the preceding season, and to prevent the roots from being paralysed by the frost; enabling them thereby, on the return of spring, to second the efforts of the head, in producing a regular and effective circulation of the sap. For if the condition of the roots and the other parts of a tree be dissimilar, the circulation of the sap must, in that case, be disturbed; and hence, probably, one prominent cause of green eye' in the flower, and premature falling of the fruit. Whereas, if all the parts of a tree be growing in an equable temperature, and all, as nearly as can be effected, receiving the benefits of the sun and air, the condition of the tree will then be harmonised, and a regular and healthful flow of sap in all its parts be promoted."

The florist's theory of mulching his dahlias, so justly animadverted upon by our correspondent, is a fair specimen of the reasoning powers of a large class of cultivators, whose practice is founded on scientific truths, but whose explanation of that practice is the very reverse of scientific. Our correspondent's observations deserve the attention of cultivators. Mulching need not, and indeed should not, be of a nature to exclude the influence of atmospheric

heat, and we quite agree with him about the questionable benefit of enriching a border through the agency of mulching, for, at the most, the enrichment to a soil derived from the practice is merely a secondary consideration. The objects most important to be secured by its employment, and for which alone it should ever be adopted by the gardener, are to check evaporation from the soil, and to prevent it becoming wet and chilled. When the first object has to be attained, the mulch is best placed over the roots about two inches below the surface, and then the earth returned over the mulch. To exclude rain, and to retain the temperature of the soil, the mulch is best placed upon the surface, and covered with a tarpaulin or reed panels. Neither, to attain one of these desired objects, warmth in the soil, ought the mulch to be kept over the surface continually, but upon the occurrence of every sunny mild day, it should be taken off during the middle of the day, and returned about three o'clock. By such judicious attention, the heat to be accumulated in a given spot of soil will far exceed that in the surrounding soil not similarly treated.

THE FRUIT-GARDEN.

STRAWBERRY FORCING.-By referring to page 138, it will be seen that the general principles of strawberry forcing were discussed; we are tempted again to make a few farther observations before the season draws to a close. We advised a very cautious mode of procedure at that early period as to watering, and not hurrying them; and such, at an early season, is peculiarly necessary. Now, however, some of these cautions become shorn of their weight in some degree; and the principal care now necessary will be to see that they do not suffer for want of water, or from too high a temperature. Some of our amateur friends may have conveniences for a regular succession of forced strawberries, so as to have some ripe from the time this reaches our readers until they ripen in the open ground. But this is not the case with the majority; and to those who can ill spare house or pit room we say, do not introduce any to heat until the middle of February, when the produce will be much more certain, as well as of much higher quality; then good strawberries may be gathered a month before those in the open ground.

We may now direct especial attention to a point or two of much importance, and although adverted to at page 39, and again at page 139, we may, perhaps, be excused for glancing at it again.

Watering. We advise the use of ordinary water until the moment the truss of blossoms may be discovered just emerging from its socket; then, a regular system of manure watering may be resorted to; for unless the bloom stalk shoots with freedom, so as to throw the berries ultimately beyond the rim of the pot, there is small chance of success; not that the berries would not swell when nearer home, but that this dumpy character argues a want of power in the plant-a root action inadequate to the proper supply of the plant.

We have before, at page 140, suggested the use of guano-water; we now beg to say that a favourite plan with us-indeed, the only one we have recourse to at present, in all cases where liquid manure is

wanted-is to mix soot-water with the guano-water, equal parts. Both these must be highly clarified; indeed, ours is like pale porter when ready for use. This is easily accomplished by keeping a couple of vessels at work-the one guano, the other soot. Now admitting that one ounce of Peruvian guano and one pint of soot will make a large waterpotful, holding three gallons of liquid manure, as strong as it ought to be applied to any plant when constantly used, it will be easy to ascertain how much of mere clear water should be added to a much more highly concentrated liquid manure, brewed thus for mere convenience' sake. Thus, suppose the mixture is brewed ten times as strong, of course it will require to be diluted with ten times the amount of mere water. This is our practice; and our waterpot of strong mixture will water a whole house of plants; the operator, who knows the power of his mixture, merely pouring a little into each pot of clear water, as he draws it. We do not mean to say that this is the only proper way of making manure water; we merely say it is at present our practice, and seems to answer with everything to which we have applied it; and, in the present imperfect state of horticulture, as to the bearings of chemistry on it, we must be content for awhile with rule of thumb work.

Strawberries, those rising for blossom, will at this period require almost daily watering in this way; those on elevated shelves, in airy houses, requiring twice as much as those in low pits or frames.

It is good practice to place a pan beneath the pots as soon as the truss begins to rise, especially if the pots are on an elevated shelf in a house.

Thinning the Berry.-When they "set" thickly, it is necessary to apply the scissors; thinning them out as grapes. All crippled or imperfectly "set" berries should be removed the moment they can be perceived; and as soon as a good crop of well-formed berries can be secured, all the remaining pips in course of blossoming, or just swelling off, may be cut away.

But you will hinder the succession, Mr. Somebody will say: true, we shall in some degree; we shall save you the chagrin of being obliged to eat a dozen or two of half-starved berries, which would have been produced a fortnight later on the same plants, had our present advice not been followed. There is no real gain, however, in reserving all the late buds or blossoms after a good crop is secured; for the water necessary to get them imperfectly swelled off, will prove a deteriorator of the flavour of those colouring. It is an excellent plan with those, who, when they get a full crop, would wish to retard some of them, to remove them as soon as a dish or two has been gathered, to a cold frame or pit; here they will ripen slowly, and acquire more flavour, and a much higher colour, than they get in hothouses. We have seen fine Keen's seedlings placed on exhibition tables thus managed, which were almost black with colouring; and which have beat all competitors. It must be remembered, however, that this course would not answer at an earlier period than the present; it would scarcely be safe, for a hard frost could scarcely be kept out of a cool pit, and frost would ruin the whole crop.

This is an excellent period to make up a frame, to produce a good crop about three weeks prior to those in the open soil. A small bottom-heat of 60° to 70° would be desirable; and good strong young plants may be removed from the open ground, with good balls of earth, and immediately planted in rich soil. They must be frequently syringed, and kept rather close for a week, shading them slightly if the weather should

We

prove very sunny. Their subsequent management will be similar to pot-strawberries, except that they may be allowed to carry a much heavier crop. need scarcely add, that the water used must always be equal, at least, to the temperature of the structure they are in this is a maxim that applies with equal force to every species of forcing.

CLEANSING FRUIT-TREES.-Those who have not looked carefully over their fruits, to see if any of the insect tribes infest them, should lose no time; for strong applications are much easier applied before the leaf unfolds than afterwards. For the American blight, spirits of tar, rubbed in with a brush, seems to be the favourite remedy at present. Where trees are infested all over, however, we would advise a wash, applied by the syringe or engine. Soft-soap-water, four ounces to the gallon, and plenty of finely-dissolved clay, will, if applied twice or thrice, block up the rogues in their dens, and, if not totally destroy them, much impede their operations. Every portion of the trees should be soused with it. If red spiders infest them, plenty of sulphur must be added to the soap-water mixture. The same mixture, indeed, will be antagonistic to most of the insects which infest our fruit-trees, including the Coccus, or scaly insect.

GRAFTING.-We made so many observations in February, last year, that we need do no more at present than observe, that it is absolutely essential to success that no delay take place in the operation. We consider that the best period is that when the buds of the stock can first be perceived to enlarge; better be done too soon than too late. Of course this rule will regulate the grafting of different kinds in due succession, beginning with those which swell first. We hope our advice, in the Calendar and elsewhere, of preparing scions in due time, has been attended to; our nurserymen always like to have the scion taken off and "heeled," a few weeks previous to the operation, in order that the stock may be a trifle in advance of the scion. It is supposed, also, that the slight amount of perspiration, or loss of juices, which a scion removed from the parent-tree always undergoes, paves the way for a speedy reception of the juices of its new foster-mother

NEWLY PLANTED TREES.-A trying time is now at hand, when the appliances of good staking, fastening, shading, and mulching, will occasionally be requisite. Of course we do not suppose that every appletree planted in an orchard can be shaded: most people are too busy in other ways to be able to accomplish so much; but this we say, that the benefits derivable from such little attentions are of much import, and that our amateur readers who have periods of leisure, will do well to render all the assistance in their power in such cases. Mulching we however consider indispensable with all fruit-trees; this we have already pointed out in a preceeding article; as also staking. We merely advert to them here to refresh memories for the last time, as mere spring business. In fastening newly-planted wall-trees much care must be taken to have the bands loose. We never finally train our newly-planted wall-trees until the end of May, by which time they will have settled considerably; we merely sling a long and loose strip of sheds here and there, enough to keep the main branches in their place, for fear of wind waving. Towards the end of the month, if dry weather previously, a little watering may be necessary; and our practice is to use warm liquid-manure, just such as we described for the strawberries, and about 10° warmer than the soil-say about 75°.

We do hope before very long that our worthy