HOTHOUSE DEPARTMENT.

EXOTIC ORCHIDACEÆ.

SECTION III.-THE PROPER AMOUNT OF HEAT, MOISTURE, AND AIR THE PLANTS REQUIRE AT ALL TIMES OF THE YEAR.-This section of orchid culture is of great importance to their successful growth. If it is neglected or carelessly attended to, all other cares which we have previously described, will be almost bestowed in vain. We entreat our readers, therefore, to pay particular attention to this section, and endeavour to carry out our instructions to the very letter, or, at least, as far as circumstances will allow.

This section naturally divides itself into four heads. 1st. Heat. 2nd. Moisture to the air inside the houses. 3rd. Watering with the garden-pot and syringe. 4th. Giving air.

As we intend our instructions to be full and explicit, so that there can be no mistake about these important matters, both to gardeners who may not have had much experience on these particulars, and to amateurs who may have had no experience at all, we shall descant upon each head more fully than we have hitherto done, though we run the risk of sometimes repeating directions we may have incidentally given in former numbers.

HEAT. AS orchids for the greater part are natives of the hottest parts of the globe, they require a corresponding temperature to be secured to them in our colder regions. To accommodate these warmth-loving plants, we build houses, and to give them light we use glass roofs. This material not only admits the rays of light, but also the rays of the sun which warm the interior of the house. This heat when thus confined is, during at least four months of the year, sufficient for these plants, and is, sometimes, even more, during the day, than they require. To moderate this excess of heat, and to prevent the rays of the great luminary of the day from scorching the leaves, we give air and use shades. But, though the sun, in general, will give us heat sufficient from the middle of May to the middle of September; yet during the rest of the year artificial heat to keep up the required temperature is necessary. There are several methods by which this may be accomplished. Now, orchids may be grown, and successfully too, at least, in a degree, by the old common smoke flue, provided the flues are well built and covered with deeply-dished covers to hold water, whilst the plants are growing. We mention this possibility of growing orchids in a house heated by such means, to encourage amateurs who might wish to cultivate them, but cannot afford the more expensive, though by far the best, mode of heating by iron pipes and tanks filled with circulating hot water. A house built with brick walls glazed with cheap glass, and heated with such flues to hold a hundred of the best kinds might be put up in the country by common workmen, and all materials found for thirty or forty pounds, which is not such a very heart-breaking sum of money. The only dif ference in the expense between an orchid house and a common greenhouse, will be in the size of the fireplace, and the amount of fuel, with a little more cost in the dished covers. Those who have already a greenhouse, and would like to change their geraniums, calceolarias, heaths, camellias, &c., for orchids, would only have to rebuild the flues, put proper covers upon them, and enlarge the fireplace, to convert their greenhouse into a house for orchids. Do not, however, mistake our meaning. We do not

recommend smoke-flues, excepting as of a matter economy in the first cost of the orchid house. A boiler and range of pipes (and tanks), for plants requiring moist air, is by far the best mode of heating for every kind of plant requiring artificial heat; but more especially for orchids. To heat a house with hot water of the capacity above mentioned, would cost at least half as much more. To such amateurs as can afford it, we would say, by all means heat with hot water in the manner described at page 64 of this 3rd volume. As is there stated, the size of the boiler and quantity of pipes and tanks required depends entirely upon the size of the house. The power of heating should be more than is required in ordinary winters in order to be prepared for those very severe ones that sometimes occur. It is always easy enough to give less heat in moderate weather by having less fire applied under the boiler. The degrees of heat required, we shall now give for all the year.

Our readers will perceive that the lowest temperature at all seasons is in the morning; that is, before the fires are stirred. The heat in the mornings in summer will depend upon the heat of the atmosphere out of doors; the rest of the day may be regulated by giving air, which we shall allude to under the 3rd head of this section. The principle of having a lower temperature during the night is perfectly natural. The variations even in tropical countries in that respect is great. In the West India Islands the night air is comparatively cold, accompanied with a great fall of dew. This, though refreshing to plants, reinvigorating them, as it were, and enabling them to sustain the fierce heat of the sun, is very injurious to human life, so much so, that if a man unfortunately is exposed to its baneful influence by sleeping in the open air, it often proves fatal; whilst orchids are refreshed, and then send out their splendid flowers in great luxuriance. We must, therefore, imitate this kind of climate. Have great, or at least, greater heat during the day, and a lower temperature during the night; and syringe freely during the growing hot season, of which, more anon.

A correspondent having requested a list of a score of easily-grown, freely-flowering, and moderately cheap orchids, that will flourish in a common stove, we shall fill up our remaining space this week by complying with his request; thinking, with him, that the information will be acceptable to many of our readers.

5. Calanthe veratrifolia (Veratrum-leaved C.), pure white flowers, produced on a long spike, lasting a long time; a terrestrial species, requiring the same treatment as Bletia, excepting having a little water given to it even in winter. Price 10s. 6d.

6. Cattleya crispa (curled-flowered Cattleya). Rio Janeiro; sepals and petals white, labellum or lip with a splendid purple spot; pot culture. 10s. 6d. small; strong, 218.

7.

Mossiæ (Mrs. Moss's Cattleya). La Guayra; rose petals and sepals; labellum or lip yellowish, stripes upon a rose ground; a superb species; pot culture. There are several varieties. Price 21s.

8. Cattleya Skinneri (Mr. Skinner's Cattleya). Guatemala; rosy purple; best on a log close to the glass. Price 21s.

9. Cypripedium insigne (Noble Lady's slipper). Nepal; sepals and petals yellowish green, the upper petal deeply tipped with white, labellum orange, the outside of a rich brown; pot culture, in turfy sandy peat and loam. Price 7s. 6d.

10.

venustum (Beautiful Lady's slipper), Nepal; handsome variegated flowers, and prettily mottled leaves; pot culture. Price 7s. 6d.

11. Dendrobium chrysanthum (Golden Dendrobium), Nepal. Basket culture. Price 15s.

12.

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13.

nobile (Noble D.), China; sepal and petals fleshcoloured, tipped with rose, labellum yellowish with a dark purple spot; a truly handsome species; pot culture, easy to grow. Price, small 10s. 6d. ; strong, 21s.

pulchellum (Pretty D.), Sylhet; small branching species, basket culture; sepals white, petal marked with a rosecoloured spot; labellum fringed and spotted with a large blotch of rose. Price 7s. 6d.

14. Epidendrum macrochilum roseum (large-lipped, rose-coloured Epidendrum), Guatemala; log culture; a beautiful variety. Price, 31s. 6d.

15.

vitellinum (Yolk-coloured E.), Mexico. The whole flower is of a rich golden scarlet; log culture; cool treatment. This is a truly splendid species, but rather scarce. Price 428. 16. Lælia autumnalis (autumn flowering, L.), Mexico; equal in beauty to any orchid in cultivation; sepal and petals blushdeepening to rose, labellum white, tipped with rose; log cul

ture.

The

17. Lycaste Skinneri (Mr. Skinner's Lycaste), Guatemala. colours of this splendid species are so rich and varied, that it is almost impossible to describe them; the sepals are pure white, tinged with crimson at the base, the petals have more rose colour in them, lip covered with spots and stripes of the most brilliant scarlet or carmine; pot culture easy; requiring a cool treatment; well worth having. Price, small, 218.; strong flowering plants, 42s.

18. Odontoglossum grande (magnificent tooth-tongue flower), Guatemala-well named. It is the butterfly flower trebly magnified. The flower is from five to seven inches across; sepals and petals yellow ground, barred with purplish brown like the back of a tiger, labellum delicate French white ground blotched with dark pink spots. The flowers are produced on long footstalks, sometimes as many as eight on one stem, and lasting a long time in flower. This is an accommodating plant, it will grow in a pot, in a basket, or on a log. Price, small, 15s.; strong, 25s. 19. Oncidium crispum (curled oncidium), organ mountains; large flower, rich brown, barred with brownish yellow; a handsome species; block culture. Price, 21s. small; 42s. strong. 20. Oncidium papilio (butterfly O.), Trinidad. The flower has a great resemblance to some gigantic butterfly; the flower stems rise to the height of two feet, and the flower sits upon them so like the insect that an ignorant person might be excused for mistaking them for a real butterfly; colour, rich brown, barred with yellow. Price, for strong plants, 218. Being confined to 20, we have necessarily omitted many splendied species. All the fine family of Stanhopea require more heat than a stove. Also the fine families of Erides, Vanda, Saccolabium, and, in fact, all the Indian species that grow in the hot jungles of that country.

FLORISTS' FLOWERS.

WE beg to refer our readers to our instructions in the last two or three numbers. These months may be denominated protective, as the great art of the florist is now to protect his plants, whether in frames or in beds, from this adverse season. As we have frequently stated, the great object is to preserve

these favourites from damp, insects, and over excitement, we had prepared a few remarks upon shading, when such plants as auricula, polyanthus, carnation, &c., had been accidentally frozen; but our good friend, Mr. Fish, has anticipated us, and we cordially agree with all his excellent remarks on the subject. T. APPLEBY.

THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. ROUTINE WORK.-At this season all cauliflowers young carrots, beans, and peas, that are above ground, as well as lettuce plants, late endive, young radishes, &c., should be kept tolerably dry, and also clear from decayed leaves. Abundance of air should be given on all favourable occasions, to keep them in a healthy and vigorous state, and dry dust should be occasionally applied, not only for the same purpose, but also on account of its beneficial influence in frosty weather, when such crops are under temporary shelter only. Radishes sown in frames, as soon as they are all fairly up, should be nicely thinned out with the hand, and have a little dry earth afterwards sifted amongst them. Young carrots, too, sown in frames, should be treated in the same way.

Onions, potatoes, carrots, and all other varieties of root vegetables that may be thickly stored away, should be examined, and those shewing even the slightest symptoms of decay should be picked out for immediate use. The autumn-sown onions would be better secured against the influence of a severe frost by a dredging of charred dust, or dry dust of any kind.

Successions of endive should be secured, when dry, for blanching, and that which may be growing in different borders and quarters should be secured by taking up each plant with a ball of earth attached, and placing them all in pots or frames, or on sloping dry banks under hurdles, or, indeed, putting it in any place where it can be easily protected in frosty weather.

The Bath Cos, Hardy Hammersmith, and other varieties of lettuce that are now of a tolerable size, may be stowed to advantage in the same way, when required for use throughout the year.

Peas and Beans may be sown in succession, and a dry border selected for sowing the early short-topped radishes, and the early Horn carrots, in alternate drills of six inches apart, protecting them with thatched, slightly-made frames or hurdles, or mulched with litter. The blanching of cardoons and celery should be attended to on dry afternoons, and gardeners must be careful to have some kind of protective material in readiness for frosty weather. Ferns, mulch, leaves, pea or bean haum, or evergreen boughs, are all, as has been before stated, useful for this purpose.

Continue to sow small salading, according to the supply that may be required.

RADISHES may also be sown in the open warm borders, to be protected in various ways; but the best way at this season is to make up snug little slight hotbeds for such purposes, and if a good frame cannot be spared, four boards may be nailed together, of any depth from six inches to a foot, to receive a light-an old window-sash, canvas, or thatched hurdle will serve for the purpose, though of course there is nothing so good as glass of any kind. Let the materials be well worked up and turned over three or four times previous to making up the beds, which beds should be, when finished, at least a foot higher at the back than in the front. Let the soil on the

beds be from nine inches to a foot in thickness, at least, and also let the frame be filled up to within two inches of its top before the seed is sown, and if the upper six inches of it be run through a coarse sieve, all the better for the radishes to run down into. Sow the seeds rather too thick than too thin; press the whole surface down-seeds and all-with the back of the spade; then sift over the whole with a fine sieve, so as to cover all the seeds neatly; put on the light, and the work is done. Let the light remain on until the plants are all up and ready to be thinned out, which should be done with the hand. After thinning out, sift a little dry earth over and amongst the whole, after which give plenty of air in all favourable weather, by taking the lights quite off on dry and fine days.

A few pots of rhubarb may be brought into the forcing pit or vinery, in order to keep up a succession of this excellent vegetable; the out-door beds should be cleared of weeds, forked up carefully, and topdressed, as before directed, if not already done.

Give plenty of air to cauliflower plants in frames, by taking the lights quite off on all fine days, and also the hand-glass crop, removing all decayed leaves, and keeping a watchful eye upon the slugs.

JAMES BARNES & W,

MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.

ALLOTMENT FARMING FOR JANUARY THE advent of another season of sowing, planting, and cultural operations, will bring with it fresh hopes to those who are fortunate enough to hold a plot of land; and hence the great advantage of a system of the kind, not only in an individual but a national point of view; for whilst the cottager who occupies a mere hovel without a garden in all torpidity and indifference, the allotment holder, who takes a pride in his plot, is all animation. He, indeed, feels that he has a stake in the country, whilst the monotony of the day dreams of the former is scarcely disturbed by anything but thoughts of the poor-law unions or of the almshouse. It has been well said, "give a man something to hope for, and he immediately becomes a better member of society." Now this is not a mere poor-law question, but a question connected with England's future weal or woe. In mere daily labour, at a minimum amount of wages, the position of the labourer is fixed-appears, of course, unalterable; and whilst the dieting, clothing, &c., of the family are all at the very lowest ebb, what inducement can there be for him to persevere? The man becomes a mere machine, and a machine, too, of the most sluggish motive powers. How different the case with the allotment holder, or one who holds a nice garden, of from a quarter to half an acre, attached to his homestead? More especially if the holder be the son of a labourer who holds, or did in his day, a similar plot. His children will have been taught and made to work many an hour when the children, of the former class have been lounging about the lanes, pillaging sticks out of every hedge, robbing orchards, or, if nigh a village, dawdling about the village green, or congregating in nooks and corners, to the moral corruption of each other.

We would now address a few words to the allotment holder or cottager who possesses a garden, and which we trust may not be without their use; the prospect at hand of another course of useful labours must be our apology. In the first place, then, comforts long enjoyed are but too apt with some charac

ters to be lightly esteemed; and when such is the case with allotment holders, even they may become supine or slothful in spite of the many inducements to industry. When such is the case it is a most lamentable affair, for we have certainly known cottage gardens and allotment pieces held by sluggards, who proved themselves quite unworthy of so great a boon. Great as has been the distress among the labouring classes at times, it has ever been, as far as our experience reaches, in the power of an industrious and civil labourer, who held a plot of ground, to keep his family above parochial relief-God giving him health; exceptions there may be, but they are few indeed.

The cottager, therefore, who holds a good situation should thankfully embrace the opportunity placed before him of rearing his family in industrious habits, and should at all times emulously consider the possibility that exists of raising some of the members of his family in the social scale; or, at least, of ensuring them the respect always accorded to honest perseverance.

Amongst other duties of the allotment holder, there is one which should receive some attention at this dormant season, and for which time can scarcely be found whilst cultural operations are pressing. The duty we here allude to is to endeavour to improve his plans yearly. Now, his own practical observations, made annually, will be of no small amount we are aware. But why not avail himself of the benefit of the experience of those, perhaps, a hundred miles away? It will be seen that we mean reading; that is to say, to those who can read; and we little doubt that those who cannot might easily get their neighbours, or, perhaps, their own children, to read to them. This will be a source of much more comfort, and more profitable in its results, than lurking for hours in the village alehouse. We would here point especially to the reading, occasionally, of works connected with agriculture or cottage gardening. There are now cheap little handbooks on such subjects within reach of all; and although all they contain may not be correct, nor the most economical view of affairs, yet much may be gleaned out of them by a mind anxious for knowledge, and desirous of introducing every real improvement within its reach. We are sorry to observe, however, that a good many of this class lay such stress on a few facts they may have already gleaned, that they become prejudiced against anything foreign to their notions; hence they must of necessity remain stationary or nearly so. Let all such, however, understand that there is no standstill point in any art or science. The history of the past, did they reflect on it-even no further back than within the memory of old men now living— would prove to them that there has always been a constant advance in knowledge of every kind. Why, then, should we suppose that we have just reached absolute perfection in the year 1850? The main business is, like lads playing with snow, to keep the ball rolling, and it will be sure to increase. We vill now proceed to look over our allotment affairs preparatory to the advance of spring.

FALLOWS.-We use this term to denote land laying at rest after receiving spade culture. This is done, according to the old way of expressing it, to sweeten." Our allotment friends should not rest satisfied with the term "sweeten;" but in this, as in all such cases, dive into the hidden meaning of such off-hand terms. Trenching and ridging was adverted to in the last month allotment paper. We may here add that the extra amount of evaporation, encouraged

by presenting a greater amount of surface, and the atmosphere, enables the soil to empty itself, in some degree, of mere moisture; and this, in conjunction with drainage, paves the to a more free reception way of the renewing powers of the atmosphere or air. Other benefits pertaining to ridging were pointed out briefly last month.

DRAINAGE.-Little can be added to our last remarks. It may merely be observed that there is still time, if hitherto neglected, to carry out such plans.

IMPROVEMENT OF TEXTURE. This term will not at first sight be thoroughly understood by the ordinary labourer. In plain words, then, we mean adopting measures to make adhesive or sticky soils lighter and more free; and those which are too light and sandy, or peaty, as the case may be, more solid. Cinder-ashes are at all times within reach of the allotment holder, and of these he can hardly apply too many, if his soil is too clayey, or too stiff, as it is commonly termed. People will perhaps tell him they canker crops-this is nonsense they not only do no harm, but much good in such cases. Open sand-if to be had-is another excellent material, or even old lime-rubbish: any or all of these materials, when easily procurable, should be seized on by the allotment holder, to open his soil if too close or adhesive. We may again repeat that if stagnant and undrained much of the benefits arising from the application of such correctives will be lost; these materials should be applied, if possible, before ridging the ground; and being equally spread, and trenched in, the benefits will be readily perceptible at cropping time, when the land is levelled down.

Sandy Soils are improved by marl, or burnt clay; also by adding much old mellow peaty matter, and ditchings, or pond mud, if at hand.

Peaty Soil must have some drainage to begin with, or the labour will be entirely thrown away. This done, sandy materials or ashes will open its pores to receive the air, and in a second season, when the waters have passed and it becomes mellow, marly materials will benefit it, for it must be rendered somewhat firm. Burning is here of great service, especially where the peat is deep; it produces an ash on the very spot, which is of great service in mellowing the soil.

MANURES. A good manager, who keeps a pig or two, and it may be a cow, will not leave his manureheap to ferment as it likes, and to become grown over with weeds in some portions of it. Of course, the cottager's manure heap is a very small affair, especially just after his last spring crops are got in. Towards autumn, or Christmas, however, there will be something to look at, and a little labour will be requisite. Turning becomes necessary; and as there will be some at the bottom very old and rotten, and some at the top very fresh, some system of management must be fixed on in the mind. Now, this depends on two or three matters. If he has a cow we may presume he has a little pasture or mowingground; in such case we would turn the fresher material by itself for the mowing or pasture, and the oldest portion by itself for drill cropping of roots, &c. Indeed, a portion of the former may at once be led away to the mowing-ground; if the pasturage requires any it may not be expedient to cover that as yet, as a bite" may still be required. With the older portion for root crops it would be well to mix any old rotting material that can be scraped together to increase bulk. Mellow ditchings, old tan, old plaster-rubbish, old rotten weeds, burnt or charred materials, leaf soil, &c., are all eligible, and indeed

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valuable; and the sweepings of chimneys, or peat ashes, may at once be thrown on the heap. All this, well-turned and thoroughly mixed, will increase both the bulk and the value of the manure, a matter of great consequence to the cottager, who should be always on the look-out for articles of the kind: for many a one in a less needy position throws away, with the utmost indifference, things which will prove of much value to the allotment holder.

We take for granted that every cottager is careful that all soapsuds, urine, and the house slops, are daily thrown on the muck-heap all the year. Surely every one by this time is aware of the great importance of this proceeding.

ROTATION OF CROPS.-Many fanciful schemes may of course be devised, but in the present position of allotment gardening-which we consider quite in its swaddling-clothes-it appears to us that simplicity will be best. Besides, the diagram scheme given last spring requires carrying out, and being, as we conceive, pretty well concocted, it will be best to pursue it another summer. Farther remarks on that head must therefore give place, until our next, to some miscellaneous remarks.

HEDGING, FENCING, &c. - -We need scarcely say that any fencing repairs, or new hedge making, necessary, should be done before spring cropping begins in fact, before February is out. In planting new hedges let the soil be well loosened, and all coarse weeds, hedge dubbings, &c., may be buried in the bottom of the trench. It would be well for all those setting out allotments in districts of a cold character, to consider the vast benefits arising from the use of holly hedges. The only drawback is, that they are somewhat longer in making a good hedge. We have known holly and quick (mixed) to form a good hedge; about one holly in every yard.

THE COW.-If the cow is dry some straw diet will be sufficient for her for awhile, adding a few sliced turnips each evening, with a handful or two of bran strewed through them. The same treatment may be given to heifers or yearlings, although the latter should have more generous diet, if possible, in order to keep them growing, as their full-grown size depends on this point. Let us advise cottagers against letting their cow, or calf, stand out in all weathers; this is very great folly. We know many who will "turn out" at one hour precisely, and "take up' in a similar way, whilst half the time the poor beast stands shivering at the gate. It is not the hour of the day but the character of the weather that should rule this operation. If the allotment holder or cottager has a "winter's cow," that is, one lately calved, he may make some cash of his butter, provided he has persevered in obtaining plenty of roots from his plot of ground. Plenty of swedes and mangold, or waste carrots and parsnips, sliced, with a little bran shook over them, and some sweet hay or good oat straw, will force plenty of milk. If he is short of roots, we would advise him to use a little linseed in cold weather. We boil roots and linseed together; scarcely half a pint of linseed to each meal, adding a little bran or other meal. Of course there will occasionally be the refuse leaves of green kale, &c.; all these help to keep the bowels of the animal in proper order-the one thing counteracting the extreme tendencies of the other. As before observed, all refuse or rejected meats from the cow's manger should be cleaned out every morning the moment the cow is turned out, and given to the pig. The cottager's wife or children will attend to these little matters.

THE POULTRY-KEEPER'S CALENDAR.
JANUARY.

By Martin Doyle, Author of "Hints to Small
Farmers," dc.

THE good results of now possessing pullets of last March for winter laying has been fully experienced by those persons who have had the precaution to provide them in due time. Some old hens are still indisposed to resume their laying in consequence of the moulting fever which affected them at a late period of autumn. For this reason it is judicious, (unless for the propagation of superior breeds) to dispose of hens, as well as cocks, before they become old. Even with the liberty of scratching for the undigested corn which had escaped from the stomach of the horse on fermenting litter, and thereby acquiring warmth as well as amusement and food; and of rolling in warm sifted ashes which, while it communicates heat to their skins, relieves them from vermin; aged hens will be at this season languid in temperament. To induce laying, occasional feeds of hempseed will be found useful. We would recommend also the cultivation (on a small scale) of buckwheat, for feeding layers. This grain is of a stimulating quality and given constantly to poultry in the provinces of Normandy and Picardy, which supply England with millions of eggs annually. The French peasantry consider as much of this grain as a fullsized wine-glass would contain to be a sufficient average allowance for each fowl per day. As this grain is very hard and angular, it ought to be ground, (though this process is frequently omitted) lest it should cause inflammation in the throat, which is not uncommon in pullets. Fowls, when unconfined, instinctively swallow gravel, or other gritty substances to aid the work of grinding by the gizzard, which is a sort of thick machine worked by a powerful muscle; in a coop they cannot supply the sub stances necessary to aid the action of the gizzard; and, therefore, if their food be of unground corn, those substances ought to be placed within their reach.

Lime, also, in some form, should be conveyed in the food of hens about to lay, because it is the principal element of the egg-shells. One of the first symptoms of laying, which a hen, with the power of following her instincts, will exhibit, is to pick up grains of limestone, mortar, or any other calcareous matter. Some of our own hens have been busily occupied lately, among other indications of laying, in picking mortar from a wall, which had no previous attractions for them. Wheat contains lime--water also may contain a sufficiency for the purpose of generating shell-but in some manner it must be conveyed to all laying poultry. Providence acts mysteriously and bountifully in meeting necessities of this kind, but the care and skill of man are not for this reason to be dispensed with. Proceed with the cramming and general fattening of fowls as in the two preceding months.

Whether fowls at liberty should be fed twice or three times a day will depend on circumstances. If they can pick up food for themselves it will be sufficient to feed them with corn early in the morning and in the afternoon before they roost. If they are not allowed opportunities of foraging for themselves, they ought to be given (and more decidedly so, if in course of preparation for the table) a feed at noon of meat, mixed with boiled potatoes, parsnips, &c., if great economy be desirable, and skim-milk if it be easily procurable. It is evident that more artificial feeding is required in winter than in summer for

poultry unconfined. It is supposed that ground corn goes much farther in fattening than raw grain; and that the boiling of barley increases the bulk so much that a considerable saving is thereby gained.

Our chief breeds of the fowl have arisen from crosses obtained by the aid of varieties imported from warmer climates. One of the most recent of these importations is the gigantic Cochin China fowl. Two fine specimens, represented in the annexed drawings, were sent in 1846 by our Queen as a present to Lord Heytesbury. This kind is so large and powerful as to have led unscientific persons to think them a variety of the Bustard, or wild Turkey; and having the ends of their wings peculiarly jointed, so as to double them forward between their body and the upper part of their wings, gives them an appearance which has attained for them the name of the "Ostrich fowl."

Their plumage is generally a rich glossy brown, with a blackish horse-shoe mark upon the breast. The comb is middle-sized, not deeply toothed; and the wattles are double. The flesh is white and delicate, and the eggs good flavoured, large, and with a chocolate-coloured shell. They have been known to lay two and even three eggs in one day. This fact has been doubted, but Mr. Richardson, who records it, refers as witnesses to the Right Hon. Mr. Shaw, Re