window-plants are to the freezing point, the more safely will they bear a lengthened covering up from light and air. The difficulty we have chiefly to contend with is, the rapidity of the changes of temperature in this country, which render frequent covering and uncovering necessary. For instance, verbenas are yet quite green, after the frost on the 28th, but a temperature of 50°, and a heavy fall of rain, will keep them so growing again that they will become easy victims to the next severe frost. Were our winters confined to a certain number of frosty weeks or months, we might allow many of our bedding-out plants to be slightly frozen, and then cover them up for the winter, removing the covering only when the cold season had passed away. This is the treatment that the majority of Alpine plants receive, from nature clothing them in winter with a mantle of snow, and the care and attention requisite for their cultivation in this country arises not from their tenderness, but from the changes to heat and cold, to which they are unavoidably subjected. R. FISH.

HOTHOUSE DEPARTMENT.

EXOTIC ORCHIDACEE.

MORE ABOUT BLOCKS.-There are some plants that require fastening to the blocks in a peculiar manner. Though we have written pretty largely already on this part of the subject we cannot quit it without mentioning the treatment the following plants must have in order to cause them to grow satisfactorily:

Cattleya citrina (the Lemon-scented Cattleya).-This is a beautiful species, with oval-shaped middling-sized pseudo-bulbs and lanceolate leaves. The whole plant is glaucous, that is, of a milky-green colour. The flowers are solitary, on long peduncles; the colour, a beautiful greenish-yellow; they are large and handsome. The peculiarity in culture is that, as it grows downwards, it is necessary to fix it on a sloping or perpendicular log; the last formed pseudo-bulb to be the undermost or lowest. In that position, without any bark (unless a block of the cork-tree is used) or any moss, it will thrive and flower well. If, on the other hand, the plant is placed in the usual way, with the youngest bulb uppermost, it will make every growth less and less, and will eventually perish. This plant, with its beautiful fragrant flowers, which last a long time in bloom, is deservedly a favourite.

Scuticaria Steelii (Mr. Steel's Scuticaria).This is also a beautiful species, with a cluster of short stems and leaves, frequently 2 feet long. These are round, something like a rush, but thicker. Unlike most other orchids, it has no pseudo-bulbs, both leaves and flowers springing from very short stems. The flowers are large and sometimes numerous; their colour a deep cream, richly marked with brownish-red. As this plant has leaves that naturally hang down, the proper way to grow it is thereby indicated. The plant must be fixed to one side of a block, and a small quantity of moss put about it, allowing the young roots to project beyond the moss. The finest plant we ever grew, or ever saw, was grown in the rich collection of T. Brocklehurst, Esq., at the Fence, in Cheshire. This plant was fastened to a block in the manner we have mentioned; it grew very well on it for a year; then a pot, the top of which would just admit the block within it, was filled with a compost of small chips, peat, and chopped sphagnum; and a strong copper wire was put round the pot just under its rim. One end of the wire was left long enough to stretch over

the pot, to form a handle; it was put under the wire on the opposite side, and the end twisted round itself to keep it firm in the pot. The block, with the plant on it, was then laid upon the compost, and just patted down sufficiently hard to keep it firm in the pot. A small quantity of Lycopodium denticulatum (Toothed Club moss) was planted round it, and the pot was hung up within eighteen inches of the glass. In this situation it had abundance of water given to it during the growing season, when it produced a considerable number of healthy fine leaves, some of which were from two to near three feet long. As soon as these leaves were matured very little water was given to it, and the temperature of the house, it being then winter, was considerably reduced. The following season we had the pleasure to see it produce several flower stems; and the flowers bloomed in great perfection. There were open at one time upwards of a dozen of its truly beautiful flowers. This plant grows on

branches of trees in the hot moist woods on riverbanks in Demerara. The clusters of stems and leaves of the plant catch the falling leaves, bits of stick, &c., and the humidity of the peculiar situation causes moss to grow about the plant. Being aware of these particulars we adopted the block, compost, moss, and abundance of moisture, as above stated, and the consequence was that the plant did its duty nobly, and amply rewarded us for our pains.

Notylia bicolor.-The late Rev. John Clowes, of Broughton Hall, near Manchester, a gentleman who was a most enthusiastic admirer and successful cultivator of orchidaceous plants, imported this curious little epiphyte. Unfortunately we are not in possession of its history as to its native country, or what kind of flowers it produces. We were informed by Mr. W. Hammond, Mr. Clowes' late gardener, that it is a beautiful species. The plant is small, with thick, short, fleshy leaves, disposed in two rows, and spotted with dark brown. Messrs. Henderson possess two plants of it that were obtained from Mr. Clowes, just before his death, in exchange for some other plants. We are indebted to Mr. Hammond for the information how to cultivate it. In that respect it is a truly singular plant. It will not grow in a pot, neither will it grow on a log. How then is it to be cultivated, on a stone, or on nothing? our readers ask. Patience! we do not mean to keep the secret any longer, but print it for the benefit of all concerned. We described that Cattleya citrina requires to be grown downward, Scuticaria on one side of the log in a pot, but this curious, fantastic little fellow is not satisfied with those ways, but must have a way of his own, a situation different to any other plant. This curious place is not on the log, but directly under it. This plant has antipodean propensities; he will only thrive with his head downwards and his roots upwards. The block should be round; the wire fastened at each end; four or six tin tacks driven in at each side; a small quantity of moss laid on the log, and fastened to it with metallic wire. Then the plant should be held to the block upon the moss, and the wire brought over the roots to fasten them to the block, which may then be hung up near to the glass, the plant being under the block, and frequently syringed and occa sionally dipt over head, the log and all, in tepid water. With this treatment this curious little plant will grow, and, we hope, flower, though our plants are not strong enough yet to do so.

The plants belonging to the genus Notylia are all of small stature, more curious than beautiful. They are mostly natives of Demerara, requiring great heat and moisture to grow them successfully. We should,

therefore, recommend Notylia bicolor to be grown in a similar way with regard to heat and moisture.

We trust we have now given full and explicit directions how to manage orchids that require blocks to grow upon. As the space allotted to us this week is nearly filled we shall not now commence with the third head or division of orchid culture, but will take this opportunity to fulfil our promise to give a few hints on the culture of exotic terrestrial (earth-growing) orchids.

TERRESTRIAL ORCHIDACEÆ.—Amongst these occur the beautiful!Peristeria elata (Tall Dove Plant), and the no less elegant Anoectochilus setaceus (Fringed Anoectochilus), remarkable for its lovely variegated leaves. In this place we shall give the generic or family names by which they are known:-Acanthophippium, Arundina, Anoectochilus, Bletia, Bromheadia, Calanthe, Colia, Cymbidium, Cypripedium, Cyrtopodium, Eulophia, Goodyera, Govenia, Grobya, Isochilus, Lissochilus, Neottia, Paxtonia, Peristeria, Phaius, Sobralia, Stenorhynchus, and Warrea. It is evident, therefore, that this section of orchids is large and important. There are some few more, but they are either small species or have insignificant flowers, and, consequently, are not worth cultivating.

Soil.-These plants require a light, rich compost. Turfy loam, half decayed leaves, and sandy peat, in equal parts, will suit the most of them. If some charcoal, broken into small pieces, be added, it will be useful. Let the pots be rather deeper than those for epiphytal orchids; and be careful to drain them well, by putting at the bottom of each pot from 1 inch to 3 inches of broken potsherds, according to its size. The season of potting ought to be in early spring, and in order that that may be a right time, they ought to be at rest by the end of October, and kept dry till the right potting time. After potting they should have more heat and moderate supplies of water, and as they advance in growth more water should be given.

Heat.-The Indian species require the same heat as the E. Indian house, and the others as the Mexican. If a tan bark bed is convenient, they will all thrive the better for being half plunged in it. Plenty of air must be given them during the season of growth on all suitable occasions, therefore it would be better if a house could be devoted to them alone; as, however, one cannot have separate houses for every section of plants, these terrestrials may be placed at one end of the house, and air given to that end more abundantly.

Rest.-All these plants require a perfect cessation of growth. It is best to accomplish this during winter, excepting such as flower during that season, of which Stenorhynchas speciosus is an instance. Some, too, have no bulbs to hold a reservoir of life while the plant is at rest; we may mention the beautiful Anactochilus as an example. Such plants must have a small quantity of water given to them during winter. The plant last mentioned is such a beautiful and desirable one that we must refer to it again at an early opportunity.

FLORIST FLOWERS.

WE have not left much room for remarks on these, but at this time of the year there is not much work to do beyond the ordinary routine of conserving the objects of the florist's care. Protect from frost effectually; give air whenever the weather will permit; shelter the tulip bed from heavy rains; do not forget the ranunculus bed, but turn it over once every three weeks or a month, doing this in dry weather. Now

THE KITCHEN-GARDEN. ASPARAGUS, when taken up and forced, requires some attention with regard to the just regulation of the bottom-heat, which should be kept moderate, and, if the slight hot-bed on which the roots are placed is likely to become too warm, it is an easy remedy to bore a few holes with a stake along the middle of the bed, and pour down a few pots of water. The plants on their being first placed on the old decayed dung, leaf-mould, or tan, of which the hot-bed is composed, should be covered very shallow at first, and as soon as the shoots begin to make their appearance they should be covered over two or three inches deeper. Whilst in full cut, the asparagus may be much improved by an occasional application of tepid liquid manure, with a small portion of salt added

to it.

CELERY.-When frost is likely to set in, the most forward of the sticks of celery should be slightly protected. Mulch, or fern, or pea and bean haulm, will serve for this purpose, and should always be prepared in readiness for any sudden emergency; stakes, crooks, and small poles, the sticks of peas and scarlet-runners, are all good articles for pegging over such protections to prevent their being blown away.

KIDNEY BEANS.-Those who have the convenience for forcing this vegetable will find it a good plan, for the next six or eight weeks, to raise the plants first in light healthy soil placed in pans at the hottest end of the structure, removing them as soon as they are up close to the glass and light, and planting them as soon as their young stems are erect, and whilst the plants are young and sturdy, into the pots, pans, or boxes, where they are to remain, and produce their crop. These pots, pans, or boxes, with the soil (which should be light and open) in them, must of course at this season be placed in the house to warm a day or two previously to planting out; and, the principal point to attend to at this time of the year, is to keep the plants high and in the middle of the pots, leaving a cavity next the pot and all round it, so that water may be applied without wetting the stem of the beans. Careless watering in the middle of winter often proves injurious by producing canker and shanking. A quantity of good, well pulverised soil should always be kept under protection at this season for potting and framing purposes.

CUCUMBERS will now require great care.

A mode

rate heat must be maintained, and air must be admitted with judgment, or the requisite health and strength of the plants cannot be maintained. Seed of the best varieties should be sown in succession, and the seedling plants early pricked off singly into small pots, lightly plunged and kept close to the glass. Water must be applied very sparingly and with judgment.

POTATOES.-The walnut-leaved kidney and other early varieties should be potted singly, and placed in heat to commence their growth in readiness for turning out under glass or on slight hot-beds.

MUSHROOM-BEDS should be made in succession as previously directed, and those in bearing carefully attended to, and kept clear from rubbish. Where necessary, the beds should be covered with litter, but the short mulch should always at gathering time be

cleared off, or it will exhaust the bed, by the encou ragement it gives to the spawn to run out. A little additional litter may be added as required, so as to keep the beds in regular and uniform bearing, and gentle applications of tepid liquid manure will be found of great benefit to those beds that have been well gathered from. Where the convenience of hot water pipes or other artificial means can be commanded for mushroom culture, so that the right temperature can be at all times maintained, no kind of litter-covering need be applied.

SPADING IN. The spade may be used to great advantage in many parts of the kitchen-garden at this time of the year in more ways than that of deep digging, trenching, and ridging. Many of our readers have a fine quarter, or quarters, of strong cabbageplants and the like, which have become very foul with weeds and fallen leaves. Now, these said quarters have been talked about probably day after day, and the hoe determined to be put amongst them; but every fine day that has befallen something or other has prevented its being done. Now, the hoe is a very important tool as an earth-stirrer and weedkiller, either in the summer or in fine dry weather at any season, but not at this catching season of the year, when the weather may be fine one day and wet the next. Now, the spade will set all this to rights, and instead of Messrs. Chickweed & Co. being robbers of the crop, will become its feeders, and the plots will be neat and tidy for the winter if they are just spaded in, that is, turned in with the spade between the rows of plants. JAMES BARNES AND W.

MISCELLANEOUS INFORMATION.

OUR VILLAGE WALKS.
(No. 10.)

WHEN walking on the banks of a fish-pond a few days ago, I disturbed a moor-hen, which flew from the shelter of a spruce fir at the edge of the water, and took refuge among the rushes that grew at the extremity of the pond. This simple occurrence brought to my mind very vividly an interesting fact that took place many years ago, and of which I was myself an eye-witness. The moor-hen is well known to be a very shy, timid bird; but my father, who was always extremely fond of birds, succeeded in so completely gaining the confidence of a pair of these elegant little creatures, that they would come to him and feed at his feet. They knew his garden dress, and they knew his voice; and I have stood concealed behind a tree, and watched while he uttered his peculiar call. Instantly the two birds started from their rushy shelter, and skimming the water with rapid wing, alighted at his feet, and fed on the bread, which he crumbled. It was a beautiful picture of benevolence and trust; but, like many earthly friendships, it was doomed to a sudden and unfortunate conclusion. An intimate friend unacquainted with these circumstances, returned one day with his gun, and displayed with exultation ther result of his sport. It was one of my fathers pet; moor fowl. The grief of his friend was scarcely less than his own, when the explanation was given of these facts-but it was all too late; and I cannot now bring to mind whether the survivor continued its former habits, or deserted the spot on the disappearance of its mate. The moor-hen's nest is a curious and very beautiful little structure, a literal weaving together of the rushes, till they become a sort of

cradle on the bosom of the water, in which the eggs are deposited. There is no nest-like snugness in its form, but it has a wild, aquatic air in perfect keeping with the nature and habits of water-fowl.

There is much beauty in water scenery, even though it should only consist of a small fish-pond or sedgy brook. The wild plants that decorate the banks are richly green, and their flowers often of brilliant colour. The mirror-like surface of the water beautifully reflects the trees and bushes that border it, and at night, when the moon is up-I dare not begin to talk about the glory of the scene then.

In our cool climate we cannot feel the real blessings of a well watered land. Beautiful as is a sparkling river or a glassy pool, we often turn away shivering from their banks, and only in summer heats admire their beauty in the landscape, or seek the cool air they breathe. But in the hot dry countries of the south and east, the beauty of lakes and streams, is their lowest recommendation. There, water is deeply valued and valuable, and in the glorious descriptions of the spiritual kingdom-so magnificently clothed by inspiration in earthly imagery, suited to earthly minds-water is conspicuously mentioned; it seems remarkably selected to express, by its presence or absence, the blessings or judgments of God. "They that forsake the Lord" are declared to be "as a garden that hath no water;" while the kingdom of Christ is described, among other remarkable figures, as 'waters" breaking out "in the wilderness," "and streams in the desert;" and in the gospel, salvation is constantly and forcibly pourtrayed by the same beautiful and essential support of animal and vegetable life. What a striking and affecting picture, too, is presented to the heart of the Christian when his eye rests on "willows by the water courses!" Can we ever see one of these peaceful trees dipping its taper boughs in the cool stream without thinking of the peaceful resting-place of the people of God" beside the still waters."

Scorching heat and parching thirst are alike unknown to us as a nation, but the sight of this refreshing element even in winter should ever remind us of all that it so pointedly shadows forth. Let us remember the living water, which is promised to all who ask for it-that " Water of Life" offered to all who thirst. Have we sought and found that stream?

Among the few bright things that still gleam among winter scenery are the gracefully arching sprays of the ever-beautiful bramble, whose crimson leaves now, in some places, look like wreathes of glowing flowers. Hedge row and dell are gay with them, and they greatly tend to enliven the cold December scene. I have seen the large thorny stems of the bramble twining themselves, to a considerable height, round trees, with their beautiful leaves ornamenting the boughs, and hanging gracefully down, as if to display the elegance of their form and foliage; and, really, if we did not know they were brambles-if we could fancy ourselves in some newly discovered land-we should be struck with the appearance of so rich and luxuriant a creeper.

We are beginning, too, to value the heavy looking Scotch fir ungraceful in its youth, but so truly picturesque in its advancing years. At every season, when old enough to be admired, it is a very ornamental tree for the park or pleasure-ground as well as for the woods. A group of old Scotch firs is a fine object; they are so stern, so rugged, so pictorial; and they stand so bluff and untroubled at our storms that they tell a marvellous tale of the blasts and

buffettings of their northern birth-place. The foliage (if we may call it so) is dark and sombre, but it is valuable when other leaves are gone, and as a strong contrast during their existence. The summer shoots, indeed, give a lively dash of colouring to it while they are young and bright, but they soon merge in the dusky mass. There is a spiciness about a fir, and a peculiar dryness in the soil beneath its boughs that tempts us to sit down and enjoy a woodland scene-delightful at almost every season-for we hear the sheep-bell from the plain, or the startling rush of the wood-pigeon above our heads, and catch a glimpse of the blue distance through the trees, and all these sights and sounds are exquisite. Sometimes we meet with a lonely fir standing on a brow, among our southern woods, as if thinking of the bold grandeur of its native hills, and longing for the wild breezes that sweep the shores of Scotland. It tells us of the lofty mountains and narrow passes that have witnessed so many sad struggles, and echoed so many coronachs cried for the great and brave. It tells us tales of romantic interest, yet of terrible truth; and we must ever look with deep regard on this beautiful tree, because it connects us with that intellectual and industrious people who dwell so peacefully beside us, under the sway of Protestant kings. The union of two sister kingdoms, so close and perfect, is a source of blessing to both, and exemplifies the Psalmist's fervent exclamation, "Behold, how good and how pleasant it is for brethren to dwell together in unity." Let us all strive, in our different stations, to foster this blessed feeling in our homes, our villages, our cities; it will gladden and beautify our land, for brotherly love "is as the dew of Hermon, as the dew that descended on the mountains of Zion."

THE CRANBERRY.

THIS agreeable fruit may be easily cultivated. It grows naturally in low boggy places, or on wet moors amongst the bog moss. This moss, rising gradually up above the level of the water, forms, as the lower parts decay, a bed in which the cranberry flourishes and bears fruit abundantly. To cultivate it near home, we must imitate the situation in which it grows wild. To accomplish this, fix upon a situation near to a supply of water, then dig out the common soil four inches, and fill up the place with bog earth ; raise up this peat six inches above the level; then form a trench round the bed, a foot or 16 inches wide, puddling it at the side next the common soil and at the bottom with clay. Keep this trench full of water. Plant the cranberry plants in the raised bed a foot apart every way; they will soon run over the whole surface, and bear plenty of fruit. The water should be frequently changed, or it will become foul. Should there be a small lake, or even a large one, near at hand, an excellent cranberry bed might be made near to the side. All that would be required would be to form a low flat island with a peat earth surface, the cranberry plant put in it at the proper distance, and kept clear from weeds. This might be named with propriety, "The Cranberry Island." A small extent would produce a large supply of fruit. If the island was eight yards long and four wide, it would be quite large enough to supply a moderate family. Lastly, this fruit may be grown in a bed of peat onefoot deep, sunk an inch or two below the general surface, and during dry weather to be flooded with. water occasionally. In this bed they will fruit to a middling extent. This last method is, howeven, not

nearly so good as either of the former; it should only be adopted where the situation will not admit of either of the other being practised. The American cranberry, on account of its size, is the best to be cultivated. T. APPLEBY.

HINTS ON MAKING SMALL HOTBEDS. DIGGING out a trench one foot or fifteen inches deep, in high exposed situations, is very good, as the whole of the lower part of the hotbed is so much better protected from the piercing cold March winds; but in low situations a slight trench also may be made-say three or four inches below the common level of the surface; then make a good bottom with furze faggots, or any other garden trimmings, such as the prunings of gooseberry bushes. Let this bottom be one foot thick, at the least.

Of course almost every one is aware how convenient it is to have a good stable-yard to refer to for plenty of manure; but this stable manure requires to be well worked, as we gardeners call it, before it can be made up into a hotbed. It must be turned over three or four times, mixing the short with the long, or the wet with the dry, and if the whole heap appears too dry and husky give a good watering to the whole as it is being turned over, and shaken up together: this will set it to work, or fermenting. The repeated turning over and well-mixing is to sweeten and equalize the whole bulk. It should be nearly half-rotted before it is fit to make up into the hotbed. Let the materials be whatever they may be, it should be treated as above.

Two-thirds fresh horse-dung, one-third fresh cow or pig-dung, or leaves, well worked up together as above, are excellent materials for making hotbeds, giving out a gentle, suitable heat, and lasting longer than that from horse-dung alone. A good time to begin in a small way to prepare the materials is the last ten days in February, and you will then have the materials ready to make up the bed about the first week in March, which is a very good time for a beginner in a small way to plant out his pot of cucumber plants, or to sow his flower-seeds, or plant his cuttings. A bed to receive a frame four feet square might be made three feet high at the back, and two feet six inches in front. This will be found to give a very nice bottom heat, either for cucumbers, seeds, or cuttings. If for seeds, or cuttings only, the whole surface of the bed may be covered over, six inches thick, with either tanner's bark or sifted coal-ashes, to steady or plunge the pots in.

In making the bed give it plenty of labour. Work the fork well in shaking and mixing the materials together-beating them down with the back of the fork as the work goes on; but they should not be trodden. Whether the hotbed is made altogether above ground, or some part of it is sunk below the level surface, it may be cased round with any kind of materials; such stuff as long littery stable dunig, dry straw, or refuse mouldy hay, are all excellent either for this purpose or for covering the frame. Such casings, placed neatly round the bed, keep out the cold winds, and may be continued up to within nine inches of the top of the frame. This hotbed, attended to in this way, is like a man made comfortable, and having a good flannel rug on to keep him so.

T. WEAVER, Gardener to the Warden of Winchester College.

EXTRACTS FROM CORRESPONDENCE. BRAMBLES FOR BEE-HIVE MAKING.-Your correspondent's question under this head is better answered in person, and practically, than in writing, and particularly the mode of splitting the bramble, which I fear he will not do without a teacher, or some practice. The brambles used are those fine long shoots of the last summer's growth. They are to be cut in the winter after the leaves are fallen, and, perhaps, after frost they will cleave the better. They are then first split in half (after trimming off the prickles), and each half again split in two; this is done with a small knife; a clasp-knife, or gardener's knife, will do very well. The knife is inserted at the largest end, and continually moved backward and forward on the edge, sideways, by which it progresses down the middle of the bramble; the regular motion keeping it from glancing out, or diverging to one side more than the other. This is done the second time, so as to split the bramble into four parts. The pith on one side, and the rind or bark on the other, is then scraped off (usually with the back of the knife, by being drawn under it when held firmly down on a piece of leather tied a little above the knee of the operator.) By this process the bramble is rendered thin and flexible, and is then fit for use; only if not used directly it will require to be laid a short time in water to make it supple before using.-T. MORGAN.

POULTRY.-I have found a very ready way of obtaining a good sort of poultry to be, to select some of the nicest silver pheasant hens of the neighbourhood without a particle of game blood in them. These should be crossed with a pure Dorking cock; and if his plumage corresponds to theirs, so much the better. I keep all the ten-toed pullets, and cross these again with another Dorking. There are so many points of resemblance between the two breeds that I suspect the one to be degenerated from the other; and there seems some reason to suppose that renewal is better than cross-breeding. Full-grown poultry

bear exposure to cold and wet better than very young chickens. For these, shelter and warmth are absolutely needful; but many of my friends, who have begun at first with pure-bred Dorkings, direct from the poulterer, have found them to have too great delicacy of constitution. From their youth up, poultry, to be profitable, should be uniformly supplied with a due proportion of food; and this practice, followed out from generation to generation, produces that tendency to get rapidly into condition, which is the grand characteristic of the improved breeds of our domestic animals; and the descendant of a wellfed race will thus become, to a certain extent, the representative, in money value, of so much good food and good housing accumulated in his portly person. This tendency will only last a very few crosses under a worse treatment. I can hardly believe it to be wholly the result of race; but some kinds seem to have a much greater facility of acquiring it than others; the latter being generally a long neglected, but hardy, half wild stock. Whether there is any analogy to this view of matters in our own specieswhether we are too much neglecting the laws of natural economy, in blindly following out the rules of political economy, in the scanty pittance doled out to half of our agricultural labourers at the idle time of the year-and whether a working man should not be kept in decent condition the year round, in order that he may be at once ready to go to work when required-are questions, perhaps, beside the subject of your pages, but, nevertheless, they will obtrude them

selves in these days of fearful visitation. So much for breed and the principle of condition; now for the practice, which we have found very successful. First, we use plenty of cayenne with the food, as recommended by Cobbett; it is useful before and during the whole of moulting time, as also a free use of salt during the whole year. We also allow them, occasionally, bacon-rinds, and other scraps of salt meat. Three years' experience of this plan has proved that, instead of its causing the loss of feathers, it keeps the birds in very high feather and health. Fowls bought out of the market have been found unwilling to peck oats, or to drink pure water, until they have had a lump of salt given to them, which they have readily devoured, and then begun to both eat and drink with a good appetite. Secondly, we are in the habit, in winter, and in wet weather, of considering all bottoms of bottles, lees of port wine, of elderberry, and of all home-made wines, odd heel-taps of porter, ale, or spirit, as the perquisites of the poultry. These should never be thrown away; and, most happily, our butler does not object to these views. About a quarter of a pint of this stimulating compound, diluted with water, may be occasionally mixed with the food of a dozen fowls. Our poultry, also, peck all the bones, and come in for many scraps of meat and bits of fat, also any drops of milk. You must observe, that one meal in the day is composed of meat, milk, and fat, with some of the potent liquor above described, when it can be spared. A little meal is, also, added occasionally. Barley seems to answer better than any other grain whatever: the hens lay better, and are less liable to gorge themselves when fed with it than with oats. By this stimulating diet, in bad weather, we keep up a high breed of poultry, with very little shelter, or confinement, or extra attention, except to the young chickens.-V. V.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

We request that no one will write to the departmental writers of THE COTTAGE GARDENER. It gives them unjustifiable trouble and expense; and we also request our coadjutors under no circumstances to reply to such private communications.

SEA-WEED (W. M. H.).-We have no special experience in employing sea-weed as a manure for raspberries, but we knew a garden near Southampton which produced abundant crops, and yet never had any other manure. We should fork it in between the rows now,

and in a fresh state.

ERROR.-A most grievous mistake was made by the printer in inserting the Fruit Garden, at page 107, of our last number but one. The last seven lines of the first column should be inserted after the 30th line from the top of the second column.

HOT-BED MAKING (C. P., Brixton).-Some plain directions by Mr. Weaver in our present number will suit you.

DISEASED APPLE AND PEAR BARK (W. J.).—We have examined your specimens in vain for the scaly insect you mention. The barks, however, are beginning to be affected with canker, and we should think, from their appearance, that your soil is wet and requires draining. Draining will check the progress of disease, and even the prevalence of insects, for both are promoted by excessive moisture in the juices of the tree. Scrub the stems and main branches with soapsuds and urine.

ROSE-TREE STOCKS (G. J. Bell).-You may move them now from the hedge-rows where they are growing. The pumpkin seed you mention we find all abortive. Grimstone's Egyptian peas and Johnson's Wonderful Long Pod may now be obtained of the seedsmen. BROCOLI LAID IN (Zeta). Your strong-growing brocoli plants, laid in with their heads to the north, will raise them perpendicularly, and flower where you have placed them.

CARROTS TASTELESS (ibid).-You say that these, " grown on a heavy soil, which had been previously trenched and limed in February, taken up a month ago, dried and stored away in ashes, are without the slightest flavour, and after being put into cold water and boiled for about four hours are still hard and unfit to eat. Is the lime, or want of manure, the cause? Putting them into boiling water has been tried, and with the same results." Your soil and deficiency of manure are the causes of this defect in your carrots. They never are so well-flavoured when grown in a heavy soil as they are in a rich, light soil, and their slower growth always tends to produce woody fibre and consequent hardness. Manure your plot now which you intend to sow with carrots in the spring. Give it a very heavy dressing of fine coal-ashes, mixed with fowl or pigeons' dung, and throw