X.

it was full of them. We saw also a large black CHAP. fowl, much esteemed among the Swedes as a delicate article of food, called (and of course from its colour) Swartz.

This is, perhaps, the

Black-Cock of our Northern moors.

It is of very

In

great size. During winter, it is sent, with abundance of ptarmigan, growse, wild-fowl, and game of all sorts, in a frozen state, upon sledges to Torneå, and from thence to Stockholm; whence it might be sent, as perhaps it will be hereafter, to the London markets, in bales of ice. creasing myriads of mosquitos attacked us in such powerful bodies, that we were forced to sit the whole day covered with our cloaks, and with lighted fires placed in the prow of each boat, so that the smoke from the burning brands might continually pass over us. Our distance from the Gulph of Bothnia was now near 300 miles; yet few rivers at an equal distance from the sea exhibit greater magnitude. Within about two English miles of Kaaresuando, the Muonio was three furlongs wide. Upon the south side of it, our course now being westerly, we saw a small insular mountain; and others of more magnitude appeared in our front, towards the west.

ando.

Arriving at Kaaresuando, we found the house Kaaresuentirely deserted; yet every part of it was open,

CHAP.
X.

Appearance

of the Muo

as if its inmates had very recently quitted it. We called loudly for its owners, in Swedish, in Finnish, and in the Lapland language; but no one appeared. This being the case, we entered into complete possession of the tenement. Choosing for our bed-room the dairy, as being the coolest place, we removed all the milk-tubs, the butter-casks, cheese, &c.; and pitching our portable beds, covered each with a sheet, like a little tent. At this moment, one of the servants, strolling about, discovered a bed in an out-house, which was still warm. Being convinced that some person had very lately left it, he searched every corner of the place; and at last, behind a door, found two wretched figures, a man and a woman, naked and trembling, who, frightened almost to death by our coming, had thus concealed themselves. With great difficulty they were persuaded that no harm would happen to them; and at last coming to the room where we all slept, a little tobacco and a little brandy restored them to the utmost tranquillity.

July 24. We left Kaaresuando, for Enontekis ni towards at the source of the Muonio. As we drew nigh its source. to the lake whence this river issues, instead of

becoming contracted and narrow, it seemed to

expand, and exhibit a wider surface. We ascended several rapids; and about seven English

CHAP.

X.

miles from Kaaresuando, entered a spacious and noble piece of water, surrounded by mountains, with others yet more distant, of greater magnitude than any we had yet seen. This was, in fact, the Alpine barrier between Finmark and Lapmark. From its summit, rivers pour down towards the Icy Sea on one side, and towards the Gulph of Bothnia on the other. The most remarkable thing is, that a lake exists upon this barrier so exactly situate upon its utmost level, that a river flowing out of its southern extremity falls into the Gulph of Bothnia, and another river flowing out of its northern extremity falls into the Icy Sea; both these rivers issuing from the Scandina same lake; thereby insulating the whole of lated. Scandinavia; which, owing to this circumstance,

is entirely surrounded by water.

We shall offer

further confirmation of this remarkable fact, in

via insu

the sequel. Presently, the log-houses and wooden Enontekis. church of ENONTEKIS appeared upon our right, covering an eminence upon the eastern side of the river; the church occupying the highest point, the Minister's house being at the foot of the hill to the north, and a sweep of empty log-houses extending the whole way from the top of the hill to the water-side. These buildings belong either to the Torneå merchants, who come hither during the fair; or to the Laplanders, who occasionally

X.

CHAP. resort to hear Divine Service and to receive the Sacrament, or who attend the annual fair held here in the month of February. At first sight, Enontekis appeared a place of more importance than any we had seen since we left Torneå: but we were told that all the buildings were destitute of inhabitants, with the exception of the Parsonage-house; and another, belonging to the Minister's brother, who is Præfect or Magistrate, and also a sort of tax-gatherer for the Crown.

ENONTEKIS, AT THE SOURCE OF THE MUONIO. Interview with the Minister-his literary attainmentsExpedition to view the Midnight Sun-its Elevation above the Horizon during the Summer Solstice-Culi nary Plants-Game-Etymology of the names of places -Notice respecting an Air-Balloon-Diet at the Minister's Table-Singular instance of etiquette-Cloudberries-their medical virtues-Balloon-Soil of Enontekis-Agriculture-Inhabitants-Languages-Houses -Means of subsistence-Fisheries-Produce of the

Forests