HAMBURGH TO COPENHAGEN. Mode of travelling from Hamburgh-Wansbeck and Schoenberg-Tutelary Storks-Abomination in which they were held among the Hebrews-Old Teutonick Well-Approach to Lubeck-Pleasing appearance of the town-Port of Lubeck-Lagnus Sinus-Cathedral -Antient Pictures - Curious Clock-work-General aspect of the houses-Dress of the Females-Execrable Roads of Holstein-Condition of the Peasants-Lakes -Singular structure of the Houses-Interior of an Inn -Concert of Frogs-Situation of Eutin-Cleanliness of the Inhabitants-Pruz-Kiel-Visible alteration in the features of the people-Curiosities of Kiel-State of Literature-Public Gardens-Roman origin of clipping Trees СНАР. II. Mode of from Ham burgh. Trees to resemble Animals-Cyclopéan Structure-by whom erected-Duchy of Sleswick-Change of Costume -Horses of Holstein-Horses of Jutland-FlensburgDistrict of Angeln-Resemblance to England-Celtic Mounds-Distinction between the Cimbri and Cymri -View of Apenrade- Habersleben-Arroesund-Basalt-Lesser Belt-Assens-Fionia-Odensee, or Ottonia-Church of St. Alban-Episcopal See-Nybourg— Greater Belt-Corsöers-Extraordinary effect of Sunrise-Slagelsu-Roschild-Cœmetery of the Kings of Denmark-Copenhagen-Ravages by Fire-The Ex change. WE left Hamburgh in a Post-waggon, drawn by four horses, upon the first of June. This sort of travelling vehicle had been recommended to us, as the most convenient for travelling through Holstein and Jutland; and it conveyed the whole party, with all our baggage. As we passed the extensive fortifications towards Lubeck, we saw the method by which the mail was conveyed, over all the dykes and ramparts, into the city, after the gates are shut. It is placed in a trunk, which is made to slidé, like a line-rocket, along a cable, by means of a windlass. The environs of Hamburgh are not unlike those of London; they are filled with neat little villas, the countryseats of the merchants and tradesmen'. Being (1) The country-seats for some miles round Hamburgh, as well as the beautiful II. unaccustomed to such a machine, we found that CHAP. our Post-waggon was a most uncomfortable mode of conveyance: but it was nothing, compared to what we afterwards experienced in Sweden, when we often longed for the Holstein waggon. Use soon began to reconcile us to our vehicle; although it shook us with a degree of violence which might be expected, travelling swiftly in a waggon without springs, over abominable roads, that, with the exception of deep uneven sands, were wretchedly paved, the whole way, with large rough stones. and Schoen The country between Hamburgh and Lubeck is, for the most part, poor, and has a desolated appearance. The road lies along the frontier of Holstein. We passed through the villages of Wansbeck and Schoenberg. The houses in Wans- Wansbeck beck had an air of neatness and comfort; and berg. during the last German mile before we arrived at Schoenberg, the country wore a better aspect : it resembled parts of Surry, being both woody and cultivated. Indeed, in the whole of this day's journey, we saw little to remind us that beautiful private and public buildings between Hamburgh and Altona, and the vistas of trees so long the delight and boast of the inhabitants, have been since demolished by the French, under General Davoust, for the better defence of the city: "Quis, talia fando, Temperet a lachrymis ?" .CHAP. II. Tutelary we were travelling in a foreign land: it was like to the worst parts of England, with worse roads. After leaving Schoenberg, we observed, upon the tops of several cottages situate near to the road, the large nests of the storks, made of sticks, and looking each like a large fagot'. This is considered, by the inhabitants, as a tutelary omen. Happy is the man on whose dwelling the stork hath built her nest. They suffer these nests to remain throughout the year; and will on no account whatsoever allow them to be destroyed, if they can preserve them. Accordingly, "THE STORK, IN THE HEAVEN, KNOWETH HER APPOINTED TIMES"," returning annually to the same nest, and quitting it when her young ones are able to fly. Considering the great care (1) The stork has evidently been induced to build over the chimneytops by the wooden platform placed there to break off the wind and snow, as well as by the agreeable warmth of the situation: and it should be observed, that peat-moss, the customary fuel of the country, gives no annoyance by its smoke, and that the upper part of the chimney itself is of wood. A similar platform is sometimes supplied for this domestic bird at the end of a barn; and, in some rare instances, on the top of a neighbouring elm, appearing like one of the signal-posts on the frontier of Kuban Tahtary. The stork returns to the Low Countries at the time of incubation, in March; being attracted by the abundance of food, such as worms, frogs, &c. peculiar to a low situation. This bird occasionally seeks the chimney-tops even in the cities or large towns of Holland; and in the present year, 1817, a pair have built their nest by the great square of Haarlem, on the house where Coster was born, and where he first exercised the art of making types and printing. (2) Jeremiah viii, 7. II. held in ab which is shewn in the preservation of these CHAP. birds, it is extraordinary that they do not multiply, so as to become a nuisance; but they are never numerous. The reverence in which they are held is the more remarkable, because the same bird was had in abomination, as being The Storks unclean, among the Israelites, and whoever even horrence touched their bodies became thereby polluted'. by the Jews. By a proper attention paid to these vestiges of antient superstition, we are sometimes enabled to refer a whole people to their originalancestors, with as much, if not with more certainty, than by observations made upon their language; because the superstition is engrafted upon the stock, but the language is liable to change. However, in this instance, no inference can be deduced of a characteristic distinction between the descendants of Shem and the posterity of Japhet; because the same superstitious reverence of the stork is also entertained by the Moors in AFRICA'; and the veneration wherein (3)" And these are they which ye shall have in abomination among the fowls, - the Stork, the Heron, after her kind, &c. Whosoever toucheth the carcase of them, shall be unclean, &c." Leviticus, xi. 13. 19. 24. also Deuteron. xiv. 18. (4) " Fez has an hospital, which is very richly endowed, and used only for the treatment of Lunatics. It is very strange, that a great part of the funds to maintain this establishment has been bequeathed, by the wills of various |