would not have done what he threatened; and that, if he had, he should have been ten times worse than I; that forming intimacies, would indeed be "limning the water," were they liable to fuch fudden diffolution; and he added, "Let's think no more on't."-Bofwell. "Well then, fir, I shall be easy. Remember, I am to have fair warning in case of any quarrel. You are never to spring a mine upon me. It was abfurd in me to believe you."-JohnSon.

"You deserved about as much, as to believe me from night to morning,"

After breakfast, we got into a boat for Sky. It rained much when we fet off, but cleared up as we advanced. One of the boatmen, who fpoke English, faid, that a mile at land was two miles at fea. I then obferved, that from Glenelg to Armidale in Sky, which was our present course, and is called twelve, was only fix miles: but this he could not understand. "Well, (faid Dr. Johnson,) never talk to me of the native good fenfe of the Highlanders. Here is a fellow who calls one mile two, and yet cannot comprehend that twelve fuch imaginary miles make in truth but fix."

We reached the fhore of Armidale before one o'clock. Sir Alexander M'Donald came down to receive us. He and his lady, (formerly Miss Bofville of Yorkshire,) were then in a house built by a tenant at this place, which is in the diftrict of Slate, the family manfion here having been burned in Sir Donald Macdonald's time.

The most ancient feat of the chief of the Macdonalds in the isle of Sky was at Duntulm, where there are the remains of a stately caftle. The principal refidence of the family is now at Mugstot, at

which there is a confiderable building.

Sir Alexander and lady Macdonald had come to Armidale in their way to Edinburgh, where it was neceffary for them to be foon after this time.

Armidale is fituated on a pretty bay of the narrow fea, which flows between the main land of Scotland and the Isle of Sky. In front there is a grand profpect of the rude mountains of Moidart and Knoidart. Behind are hills gently rifing and covered with a finer verdure than I expected to fee in this climate, and the scene is enlivened by a number of little clear brooks.

Sir Alexander Macdonald having been an Eton fcholar*, and being a gentleman of talents, Dr. Johnson had been very well pleased with him in London. But my fellow-traveller and I were now full of the old Highland spirit, and were diffatisfied at hearing of racked rents and emigration; and finding a chief not furrounded by his clan. Dr. Johnson faid, "Sir, the Highland chiefs should not be allowed to go farther fouth than Aberdeen. A ftrong-minded man, like Sir James Macdonald, may be improved by an English education; but in general, they will be tamed into infignificance."

We found here Mr. Janes of Aberdeenshire, a naturalist. Janes faid he had been at Dr. Johnson's in London, with Ferguson the aftronomer. -Johnson. "It is ftrange that, in fuch diftant places, I fhould meet with any one who knows me. I should have thought I might hide myself in Sky.”

Friday, 3d September.

This day proving wet, we fhould have paffed our time very uncomfortably, had we not found in

the

See his Latin verfes addreffed to Dr. Johnfon, in the Ap

PENDIX.

the house two chefts of books, which we eagerly ranfacked. After dinner, when I alone was left at table with the few Highland gentlemen who were of the company, having talked with very high respect of Sir James Macdonald, they were all fo much affected as to fhed tears. One of them was Mr. Donald Macdonald, who had been lieutenant of grenadiers in the Highland regiment, raised by Colonel Montgomery, now Earl of Eglintoune, in the war before laft; one of those regiments which the late Lord Chatham prided himself in having brought from" the mountains of the North :" by doing which he contributed to extinguish in the Highlands the remains of difaffection to the present Royal Family. From this gentleman's conversation, I first learnt how very popular his Colonel was among the Highlanders; of which I had fuch continued proofs, during the whole courfe of my Tour, that on my return I could not help telling the noble Earl himself, that I did not before know how great a man he was.

We were advised by fome perfons here to vifit Rafay, in our way to Dunvegan, the feat of the Laird of Macleod. Being informed that the Rev. Mr. Donald M'Queen was the most intelligent man in Sky, and having been favoured with a letter of introduction to him, by the learned Sir James Foulis, I fent it to him by an exprefs, and requested he would meet us at Rafay; and at the fame time enclosed a letter to the Laird of Macleod, informing him that we intended in a few days to have the honour of waiting on him at Dunvegan.

Dr. Johnson this day endeavoured to obtain fome knowledge of the ftate of the country; but complained

i

plained that he could get no distinct information about any thing, from those with whom he converfed.

Saturday, 4th September.

My endeavours to roufe the English-bred Chieftain, in whofe house we were, to the feudal and patriarchal feelings, proving ineffectual, Dr. Johnfon this morning tried to bring him to our way of thinking.-Johnson. "Were I in your place, fir, in feven years I would make this an independant ifland. I would roaft oxen whole, and hang out a flag as a fignal to the Macdonalds to come and get beef and whisky."-Sir Alexander was ftill starting difficulties.-Johnson. "Nay, fir; if you are born to object, I have done with you. Sir, I would have a magazine of arms."-Sir Alexander. "They would ruft."-Johnson. "Let there be men to keep them clean. Your ancestors did not use to let their arms ruft."

We attempted in vain to communicate to him a portion of our enthusiasm. He bore with fo polite a good-nature, our warm, and what fome might call Gothick, expoftulations, on this subject, that I should not forgive myself, were I to record all that Dr. Johnfon's ardour led him to fay.-This day was little better than a blank.

Sunday, 5th September.

I walked to the parish church of Slate, which is a very poor one. There are no church bells in the ifland. I was told there were once fome; what has become of them, I could not learn. not being at home, there was no fervice.

The minifter

I went

into the church, and faw the monument of Sir James Macdonald, which was elegantly executed at Rome, and has the following inscription, written by his friend, George Lord Lyttelton:

To the memory

Of SIR JAMES MACDONALD, BArt.
Who in the flower of youth,

Had attained to fo eminent a degree of knowledge
In Mathematics, Philofophy, Languages,

And in every other branch of useful and polite learning,
As few have acquired in a long life

Wholly devoted to study:
Yet to this erudition he joined
What can rarely be found with it,
Great talents for business,

Great propriety of behaviour,
Great politeness of manners!

His eloquence was sweet, correct, and flowing;
His memory vast and exact;
His judgement ftrong and acute;
All which endowments, united
With the most amiable temper

And every private virtue,
Procured him, not only in his own country,
But also from foreign nations,
The higheft marks of efteem.
In the year of our Lord

1766,

The 25th of his life,

After a long and extremely painful illness, Which he supported with admirable patience and fortitude, He died at Rome,

Where, notwithstanding the difference of religion, Such extraordinary honours were paid to his memory, As had never graced that of any other British subject, Since the death of Sir Philip Sydney.

The