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gigantic and smutty coalheavers, vagrants and beggars in rags and filth-so annoying; and, if you ride or drive, the jamming of stage-wagons and stagecoaches, omnibuses, hacks and cabs, vans, trucks and drays, and every kind of lumbering thing, so constant and so vexatious, often bringing you to a dead stand for five and ten minutes at a time, that when the smoke, and fog, and darkness, and drizzle, and rain, and dirt, of three-fourths of the year are added, "horrible" is scarce too strong an appellative for the tout ensemble of the disagreeables characterizing a passage through it.

We in general have chosen the most bright and sunshiny days for our excursions in that direction; but, even then, when we have gone on foot, after having jostled our way through Fleet Street and Cheapside from the Strand, have felt better fitted, on reaching a Coffee-House, for the bath and dressingroom, than for the society of gentlemen.

Thursday we passed in the country. It was our intention to have returned to town before dark, but unexpected delays and a heavy rain detained us till midnight, and we were disappointed in meeting two engagements, which it would have been interesting for us to have kept. Through letters from Dr. Hosack to William Vaughan, Esq. a member of the Royal Society, we were to have been taken by his relative, Mr. Petty Vaughan, in the early part of the evening to the last meeting for the season of that distinguished body of literary and scientific 'gentlemen. And, afterwards, were to have accompanied Sir Robert Otway, and the ladies of his family, to a musical

158

PAINTINGS AT SOMERSET HOUSE.

party at the Countess of Norbury's, where the elite of the Irish society, at present in London, were assembled.

In Lady Otway and her daughters, we have met an affability and charm of manners corresponding with the friendship and kindness of Sir Robert. They are only for a short time in town, and do not keep house. But we have passed two or three delightful mornings with them; with proof of their intelligence and accomplishments, and the views they take of the true sources of happiness in life, and the rational pursuit of its enjoyments, which leads us to anticipate great satisfaction in a promised visit in the autumn to Brighton, where they reside.

In speaking of the exhibition of paintings, the present season, at Somerset House, the last time we saw them, they furnished us with a marked catalogue, with various notes of explanation, which added much to the interest of a visit there this morning. The productions of the pencil of our countryman Leslie, hold a gratifying prominence for merit in the collection filling the rooms. One piece in particular of his painting-a family group of the Marquess and Marchioness of Westminster, their children and grand-children-struck us as being more happy in the design and spirited in the execution, than any other observed by us. He excels in domestic scenes, and in delineations of life and manners. And to portray the social affections with such loveliness and truth, must possess a heart familiar with the refined enjoyments springing from them. His genius and his works are an honour to the American name.

MARQUESS OF STAFFORD'S COLLECTION.

159

We this morning gave an hour to one of the most valuable private collections of paintings in the city. That of the Marquess of Stafford-to which access is given at Bridgewater House, his town residence, by private cards of admission once a week for some months in the year. Though an amateur, so far as lively admiration constitutes the character, for everything connected with the art, I have no one quality of a connoisseur, and will not attempt a description of the gallery. It is not at all impossible, that the pieces which arrested my attention and delighted me most, are comparatively of little merit; while I may have overlooked, as uninteresting the choicest gems of the whole.

I judge for myself in paintings, entirely by the ef fect produced upon the feelings and affections by the subject, whatever its character may be. And, by this test would say, that the landing of Prince Maurice at Dort, by Cupt, and the Saviour bearing the cross, by Dominichino, are among the most masterly in the multitude covering the walls of the suite. The impression made by the last, is still vividly and affectingly present to my mind.

160

HATCHAM GROVE, AND

LETTER XVIII.

VISIT TO HATCHAM.

Mr. Ewbank and family of Hatcham Grove-the Hardcastles of Hatcham House-Clarkson the Philanthropist—Rev. Mr. Melville of Camberwell-Notices of his oratory and Sermon.

DEAR VIRGINIA,

35 Maddox Street, Regent, London. June 25th, 1832.

Letters from my friend, the Rev. Mr. Millvaine of Brooklyn, made me acquainted with Mr. Ewbank, a merchant of respectability of the city, and an excellent and spiritual Christian. His family reside at Hatcham Grove, a country house some three or four miles out of town, at which I was invited for the Sabbath.

In this quiet and hospitable retreat, Mr. M'I]vaine passed much of his time when an invalid in England, a year since, in company with the Rev. Dr. Milnor; and 1 was happy to become domiciliated for a day in a family of his friends, who partake in no small degree of the kindness of his heart and the spirituality of his mind, and in being the occupant of rooms in their mansion, which had once been appropriated to him.

A small party had been invited to meet me at dinner on Saturday; embracing in the number the Hardcastles of Hatcham House-the sons and the daughters of Joseph Hardcastle, Esquire, so long and

HATCHAM HOUSE.

161

so extensively known as the benevolent and efficient treasurer of the London Missionary Society, and the eminent and liberal patron of missions. I called upon them for a few moments on my return to London. Hatcham House has long had a place in the affections of many of my American friends—in those of a Mason and a Bruen, now no more, and in that of a Silliman, who yet lives to be remembered and beloved. This fact, connected with an acquaintance formed with some of the family when before in England, and an early veneration for the name, and the character of the father of the present occupants, caused me to take particular satisfaction in a hasty view of its grounds, and in the welcome of a few moments 1 received beneath its roof.

In the former, a tree, planted by the hands of Dr. Mason some fifteen or twenty years ago, now rising into loftiness and vigour, was shown to me with much seeming pleasure; and, under the latter, I had the satisfaction of being introduced to Clarkson, the Christian and the philanthropist, whose name will

descend to posterity, connected with that of a Grenville Sharpe and a Wilberforce, as a friend and be

nefactor of the African race.

I entered.

He was conversing upon his favourite topic when manner, though far advanced in age. He is the ad It still gives energy to his feelings and

vocate of a gradual though total emancipationdual in its operations, more than in its limits of

gra time

for, in illustrating his views of the practicability of it facts, proving that the experiment had already been without delay in the West Indies, he mentioned

14*

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