(Continued from p. 25.) Saturday, July 2d. The party for the volcano, which I mentioned some days since, set off early on Monday, the 27th ult. I was happy enough to be one of the number; and while the incidents of the excursion are fresh in my mind, I hasten to give you an account of them. Every preparation having been previously made, we left the harbour shortly after sunrise. The uncommon beauty of the morning proved a true omen of the delightful weather with which we were favoured, during the whole of our absence. The rich colouring of Mou nakea in the early sun, never called forth higher or more general admiration. The brightness of the sky, the purity of the air, the freshness, sweetness, and cheerfulness of all nature, excited a buoyancy of spirit, favourable to the accomplishment of the walk of forty miles, which lay between us and the object of our journey. Lord Byron had invited Mr. Ruggles (who was also of the party) and myself, to an early cup of coffee with him, that we might all proceed together from his lodgings; but besides the inconvenience of crossing the river, it would have considerably lengthened our walk-We therefore chose to take some refreshments at home, and at an appointed signal proceeded up one side of the stream and great fish pond, while the gentlemen of the Blonde followed a path up the other. We met on a rising ground at the end of two miles, and found the company from the opposite side to consist of Lord Byron, Mr. Ball, the first lieute

nant, Lieutenant Malden, the surveyor, Mr. Bloxam, the chaplain, Mr. A. Bloxam, the mineralogist, Mr. Davis, the surgeon, Mr. Dampier, the artist, Mr. White, a son of the Earl of Bantry, and Mr. Powel, midshipmen. Lord Beauclerck was to have been of the number, but was detained by sickness. Maro, a principal chief of Hido, had been appointed by Kaahumanu caterer general; and about 100 natives under his authority attended with our luggage, provisions, &c. &c. Sir Joseph, or as more familiarly styled, "Joe Banks," was also in attendance, in his diversified capacity. The Regent had left nothing undone to render the trip as comfortable as her authority could make it. Neat temporary houses, for refreshment and sleeping, had been erected by her command at intervals of 12 or 15 miles, and the people of the only inhabited district through which we were to pass, had, the week before, been apprized of the journey of "the British chief," with strict orders to have an abundance of pigs, fowls, taro, potatoes, &c. &c., in readiness, for the supply of his company. When assembled, we formed quite a numerous body, and from the variety of character and dress, the diversity in the burdens of the natives-bundles, tin cases, portmanteaus, calabashes, kettles, buckets, pans, &c. &c., with two hammocks, by way of equipage, swung on long poles, borne each by four men, (one for Lord B., in case the fatigue of walking should affect his lame leg, and the other for Mr. Bloxam,) made, while marching in single file along the narrow winding path which formed our only road, quite a grotesque and novel appearance.

For the first four miles the country was open and uneven, and beautifully sprinkled with clumps, groves, and single trees of the bread-fruit, lauala, (pandanus) and tutui or candle-tree. We then

came to a wood four miles in width, the outskirts of which exhibited a rich and delightful foliage. It was composed principally of the candletree, whose whitish leaves and blossoms afforded a fine contrast to the dark green of the various creepers, which hung in luxuriant festoons and pendants, from their very tops to the ground-forming thick and deeply shaded bowers round their trunks. The interior was far less interesting, presenting nothing but an impenetrable thicket, on both sides of the path. This was excessively rough and fatiguing, consisting entirely of loose and pointed pieces of lava, which from their irregularity and sharpness, not only cut and tore our shoes, but constantly endangered our feet and ankles. The high brakeginger, &c., which border and overhang the path, were filled with the rain of the night, and added greatly, from their wetness, to the unpleasantness of the walk. An hour and a half, however, saw us safely through, and refreshing ourselves in the charming groves with which the wood was here again bordered. The whole of the way, from this place to within a short distance of the volcano, was very much of one character. The path, formed entirely of black lava, so smooth in some places as to endanger falling, and still showing the configuration of the molten stream as it had rolled down the gradual descent of the mountain, led mid-way through a strip of open uncultivated country, from 3 to 5 miles wide-skirted on both sides by a ragged and stinted wood, and covered with fern, grass, and low shrubs, principally a species of the whortleberry. The fruit, of the size of a small gooseberry, and of a bright yellow colour, tinged on one side with red, was very abundant, and though of insipid taste, refreshing from its juice. There were no houses near the path, but the smoke or thatch of a cottage was occasionally observed in the edge of the wood.

Far on the right and west Mounakoa and Mounakea were distinctly visible; and at an equal distance, on the left and east, the ocean, with its horizon, from the height at which we viewed it, mingling with the sky.— We dined 13 miles from the bay, under a large candle tree, on a bed of brake, collected and spread by a party of people who had been waiting by the way side to see the "arii nui mai Pesekani mai-great chief from Britain." About two miles further, we came to the houses erected for our lodgings the first night. Thinking it, however, too early to lay by for the day, after witnessing a dance performed by a company from the neighbouring settlements, we hastened on, intending to sleep at the next houses, ten miles distant: but night overtaking us before we reached them, just as darkness set in, we turned aside a few rods to the ruins

of two huts, the sticks only of which were remaining. The natives, however, soon covered them with fern

the leaves of tutui, &c. &c.—a quantity of which they also spread on the ground, before laying the mats which were to be our beds. Our arrival and turesque and lively scene-for the encampment produced quite a picislanders, who are not fond of such forced marches as we had made during the day, were more anxious for repose than ourselves, and proceeded with great alacrity to make preparations for the night. The darkness, as it gathered round us, rendered more gloomy by a heavily clouded sky, made the novelty of our situation still more striking. Behind the huts in the distance, an uplifted torch of the blazing tutui nut, here and there indistinctly revealed the figures and costume of many, spreading their couches under the bushes in the open air. A large lamp suspended from the centre of our rude lodge, which was entirely open in front, presented us in bolder relief, seated a la Turk round Lord Byron, who poured out "the cup that cheers but not inebriates”—the more curious of our dusky companions, both male

and female, in the mean time, pressing in numbers round our circle, as if anxious to "catch the manners living as they rise." A large fire of brushwood, at some distance in front, exbibited the objects of the fore-ground, in still stronger lights and shadows. Groups of both sexes and all ages, were seated or standing round the fire, wrapped up from the chilliness of the evening air, in their large kibeis or mantles of white, black, green, yellow, and red-Some smokingsome throwing in, and others snatching from, the embers, a fish or potato, or other article of food-Some giving a loud halloo, in answer to the call of a straggler just arrivingothers wholly taken up with the proceedings of the sailors cooking our supper; and all chattering with the volubility of so many magpies.-By daylight, the next morning, we were on the road again, and shortly after met lieutenant Talbot-Mr. Wilson the purser-and Mr. M'Kea the botanist, with their guides and attendants, on their return; they having preceded us three days in the same excursion. As they intended to reach the frigate in time for dinner, they stopped only long enough to say the volcano was in fine action, and highly worth visiting. At 9 o'clock we passed the last houses put up for our accommodation on the way; and at 11 o'clock had arrived within three miles of the object of our curiosity. -For the last hour the scenery had become more interesting-our path was skirted, occasionally, with groves and clusters of trees, and fringed with a greater variety of vegetation, Here also the smoke from the volcano was first discovered, settling in light fleecy clouds to the south-west. Our resting place at this time was a delightful spot, commanding a full view of the wide extent of country over which we had travelled, and beyond it, and around it, the ocean, which from the vast and almost undistinguished extent of its horizon, seemed literally an "illimitable sea." The smooth green sward, under the shade of a majestick acacia, almost

encircled by thickets of a younger growth, afforded a refreshing couch on which to take our luncheon. Here we saw the first bed of strawberry vines, but without finding any fruit. We tarried but a few moments, and then hurried on to the grand object before us. The nearer we approached the more heavy the columns of smoke appeared, and excited to intenseness our curiosity to behold their origin. Under the influence of this excitement we hastened forward with rapid steps, regardless of the heat of a noon-day sun, and the fatigue of the walk of 36 miles, already accomplished. A few minutes before 12 o'clock, we came suddenly on the brink of a precipice, covered with shrubbery and trees, 150 or 200 feet high. Descending this by a path almost perpendicular, we crossed a plain a half mile in width, enclosed, except in the direction we were going, by the cliff behind us, and found ourselves a second time on the top of a precipice 400 feet high, also covered with bushes and trees. This, like the former, swept off to the right and left, enclosing in a semicircular form, a level space about a quarter of a mile broad, immediately beyond which lay the tremendous abyss of our search, emitting volumes of vapour and smoke; and labouring and groaning, as if in inexpressible agony, from the raging of the conflicting elements within its bosom. We stood but a moment to take this first distant glance-then hastily descended the almost perpendicular height, and crossed the plain to the very brink of the crater.-There are scenes to which description, and even painting, can do no justice; and in conveying any adequate impression of which they must ever fail. Of such, an elegant traveller rightly says, "the height, the depth, the length, the breadth, the combined aspect may all be correctly given, but the mind of the reader will remain untouched by the emotions of admiration and sublimity which the eye-witness experiences." That which here burst on our sight was emphatically of this kind; and

to behold it without singular and deep emotion, would demand a familiarity with the more terrible phenomena of nature which few have the opportunity of acquiring.-Standing at an elevation of 1500 feet, we looked into a black and horrid gulf, not less than 8 miles in circumference, so directly beneath us that in appearance we might, by a single leap, have plunged into its lowest depth. The hideous immensity itself, independent of the many frightful images embraced in it, almost caused an involuntary closing of the eyes against it. But when to the sight is added the appalling effect of the various unnatural and fearful noises-the muttering and sighing-the groaning and blowing-the every agonized struggling of the mighty action within

as a whole, it is too horrible! And for the first moment I felt like one of my friends, who, on reaching the brink, recoiled and covered his face, exclaiming, "call it weakness, or what you please, but I cannot look again." It was sufficient employment for the afternoon, simply to sit and gaze on the scene; and though some of our party strolled about, and one or two descended a short distance into the crater, the most of our number deferred all investigation till the next morning.

From what I have already said, you will perceive that this volcano differs, in one respect, from most others of which we have accountsthe crater, instead of being the truncated top of a mountain, distinguishable in every direction at a distance, is an immense chasm in an upland country, near the base of the mountain Mounakea-approached, not by ascending a cone, but by descending two vast terraces; and not visible from any point at a greater distance than half a mile-a circumstance which, no doubt, from the sudden ness of the arrival, adds much to the effect of a first look from its brink. It is probable that it was originally a cone, but assumed its present aspect, it may be centuries ago, from the falling in of the whole sum

mit. Of this the precipices we descended, which entirely encircle the crater, in circumferences of 15 and 20 miles, give strong evidence-they having unquestionably been formed by the sinking of the mountain, whose foundations had been undermined by the devouring flames beneath. In the same manner, one half of the present depth of the crater has, at no very remote period, been formed. About midway from the top, a ledge of lava, in some places only a few feet, but in others many rods wide, extends entirely round (at least as far as an examination has been made) forming a kind of gallery, to which you can descend in two or three places, and walk as far as the smoke, settling at the south end, will permit. This offset bears incontestable marks of having once been the level of the fiery flood now boiling in the bottom of the crater. A subduction of lava, by some subterraneous channel, has since taken place, and sunk the abyss many hundred feet lower, to its present depth.

The gulf below contains probably not less than 60 (56 have been counted) smaller conical craters, many of which are in constant action. The tops and sides of two or three of these are covered with sulphur, of mingled shades of yellow and green. With this exception, the ledge, and every thing below it, are of a dismal black. The upper cliffs on the northern and western sides are perfectly perpendicular, and of a red colour, every where exhibiting the seared marks of former powerful ignition. Those on the eastern side are less precipitous, and consist of entire banks of sulphur, of a

delicate and beautiful yellow. The south end is wholly obscured by the smoke, which fills that part of the crater, and spreads widely over the surrounding horizon.

As the darkness of the night gathered round us, new and powerful effect was given to the scene. Fire after fire, which the glare of midday had entirely concealed, began to glimmer on the eye, with the first

shades of evening; and, as the darkness increased, appeared in such rapid succession, as forcibly to remind me of the hasty lighting of the lamps of a city, on the sudden approach of a gloomy night. Two or three of the small craters nearest to us were in full action, every moment casting out stones, ashes and lava, with heavy detonations, while the irritated flames accompanying them glared widely over the surrounding obscurity, against the sides of the ledge and upper cliffs-richly illuminating the volumes of smoke at the south end, and occasionally casting a bright reflection on the bosom of a passing cloud. The great seat of action however seemed to be at the southern and western end, where an exhibition of ever varying fireworks was presented, surpassing in beauty and sublimity all that the ingenuity of art ever devised. Rivers of fire were seen rolling in splendid coruscation among the labouring craters, and on one side a whole lake, whose surface constantly flashed and sparkled with the agitation of contending currents.

Expressions of admiration and astonishment burst momentarily from our lips, and though greatly fatigued, it was near midnight before we gave ourselves to a sleep, often interrupt ed during the night, to gaze on the sight with renewed wonder and surprise. As I laid myself down on my mat, fancying that the very ground which was my pillow shook beneath my head, the silent musings of my mind were-"Great and marvellous are thy works, Lord God Almighty! greatly art thou to be feared, thou King of saints!"

On Wednesday, the 29th, after an early breakfast, our party, excepting Lieutenant Malden, who was ill, Mr. Dampier, who remained to take a sketch, and Mr. Ruggles who chose to stroll alone, prepared for a descent into the crater. One of the few places where this is practicable, was within a rod of the hut in which we lodged. For the first 400 feet, the path was steep, and from the VOL. V.-Ch. Adv.

looseness of the stones and rocks on both sides, required caution in every movement. A slight touch was sufficient to detach these, and send them bounding downwards for hundreds of feet, to the imminent danger of any one near them. The remaining distance of about the same number of feet, was gradual and safe, the path having turned into the bed of an old channel of lava, which ran off in an inclined plane till it met the ledge before described-more than a quarter of a mile west of the place where we began the descent. By the time we arrived here, the natives acting as guides with the Messrs. Bloxam and Mr. Powell, had preceded the rest of our number too far to be overtaken, and we became two parties for the rest of the morning-the last, into which I fell, consisting of Lord Byron, Mr. Ball, Mr. Davis, Mr. White, with Lord B.'s servant and my native boy, to carry a canteen of water and the specimens we might collect. Before descending we had provided ourselves with long canes and poles, by which we might test the soundness of any spot before stepping on it, and immediately on reaching the ledge we found the wisdom of the precaution. This offset is formed wholly of scoria and lava, mostly burned to a cinder, and every where intersected by deep crevices and chasms, from many of which light vapour and smoke were emitted, and from others a scalding steam. The general surface is a black, glossy incrustation; retaining perfectly the innumerably diversified tortuous configurations of the lava, as it originally cooled, and so brittle as to crack and break under us like ice; while the hollow reverberations of our footsteps beneath, sufficiently assured us of the unsubstantial character of the whole mass. In some places, by thrusting our sticks down with force, large pieces would break through, disclosing deep fissures and holes, apparently without bottom. These however were generally too small to appear dangerous. The width of

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