Two hours' ride brought us to Kefer Kenna, or Cana of Galilee, the village where our Saviour performed the first miracle. It is situated on a slope of a hill, from which there is a fine view of the extensive valley below. There is nothing to interest the stranger here, except two old stone pots or jars, made of the common rock of the country, and said to be the original vessels that contained the water afterwards converted into wine. These jars are shaped like a large mortar, and are exhibited in a small church belonging to the Greek communion. Five hours' ride from Nazareth brought us to the shores of Galilee. We did not go into the town immediately, but loitered along the water's edge, picking up shells and pebbles. The hot baths, so celebrated for their medicinal properties, are very near the lake, and fitted up in the Turkish manner. The water issues from the side of the hill in great quantities, and is so hot that I could not hold my hand in it one half minute. It is conveyed from the spring into a large circular basin made of white marble, and sufficiently deep for a man to swim. A large marble bath-tub was pointed out to us, by the Arab who had charge of the establishment, as being the same used by Ibrahim Pasha while at Tiberias. The water of the lake is clear but insipid, and judging from the washed stones high up on the shore, it must be subject to heavy storms. Some writers represent this sheet of water as being from fifteen to eighteen miles in length, and from five to six in breadth, which seems to be a mistake. Judging from the eye, I take it to be ten or twelve in length and three to four in breadth. It is surrounded by lofty but barren hills, which makes it look smaller than it really is. After passing some time in viewing the region round about this small sea, including the Mount of Beatitudes, where tradition says that Christ delivered his sermon, and a hundred other spots celebrated in history, we entered the walled town of Tiberias, now rapidly going to decay. Our dragoman conducted us to the house of a Jew, where we all slept in one room, and had an abundance of fleas and vermin of every description to keep us awake during the night. From Tiberias I could see distinctly the ancient sites of Bethsaida and Capernaum and the Mount of Beatitudes. Saffad is not far above the lake, celebrated for the beauty of its scenery, and being the place where the Jews suppose the Messiah will reign forty years before going to Jerusalem. From Tiberias, we ascended a lofty hill, and crossed the plain

of Galilee to the western base of Mount Tabor. The ascent of this sacred mountain is gradual, and requires one hour and a half to reach the summit. It is shaped something like a cone with the top knocked off, and a level area of an oval figure, extending about two furlongs in length and one in breadth, is seen on the top. It is inclosed with trees on all sides except the south, and is most fertile and delicious. Having been anciently surrounded with walls and trenches, there are remains of considerable fortifications at the present day. A thick wall of large stones may be traced quite around the summit close to the precipice, on several parts of which are relics of bastions. On the eastern side of the hill is a strong castle, and in the precincts of it is the grotto in which are three altars in memory of the tabernacles that St. Peter proposed to build, and where the Latins always perform mass on the anniversary of the Transfiguration. The mountain derives its celebrity from the opinion entertained among Christians since the days of Jerome, that it was the scene of a memorable event in the history of our Lord. It is situated apart from all the other mountains, and furnishes a view of the rarest beauty. On the northeast I saw in the distance the expanse of the Mediterranean, while all around the spacious and beautiful plains of Esdraelon and Galilee greeted the eye. Towards the south I had in view the high mountains of Gilboa, so fatal to Saul and his sons. A few points to the north appears the Mount of Beatitudes, and the high chain of Anti-Libanus covered with snow. To the southwest is Carmel, and in the south the hills of Samaria. Descending the mountain, we returned to the convent in Nazareth, where every thing is comfortable and inviting.

LETTER FORTY-EIGHT.

DAMASCUS, Syria.

Mount Carmel-Acre-Ladder of Tyre-Sidon-Residence of Lady Hester StanhopeBeirout-The Druses-Balbec-Damascus.

FROM Nazareth we passed over a rough and mountainous country to Sephony, which occupies the site of the ancient Sephoni, described

by Josephus as the largest city in Galilee. Here was held one of the five Sanhedrims of Palestine, the others being held in Jerusalem, Jericho, Gailasa, and Amathus. “It existed as a flourishing city till the year 339, when it was destroyed by the Romans in consequence of an insurrection of the citizens. The castle, once the acropolis of the city, stands on the top of the hill, nearly half a mile above the village." Soon after leaving Sephony, we entered the delightful plain of Zabulon-saw the well of Zabulon, and close to it the walled village of Kaffer Mender. The road now lies through the narrow vale of Abylene, bounded by low hills covered with oak trees, to the village of the same name. Two miles further is another well, at the foot of a hill on which is the village of Pere overlooking the plain of Acre, called sometimes the vale of Kishon or Megiddo. This vale is almost one continued swamp, crossed by tracks not always easy to find. Crossing the river Kishon, which traverses this plain, and in which the host of Sisera were swept away, we entered the dirty town of Caiaphus, situated on the bay at the foot of Mount Carmel. According to Pocock, this is the Porphyrion of the Romans, where Pliny says the Tyrian purple dye was made from the shell-fish of the coast. A grove of venerable olive trees adorn the road on either side to Mount Carmel, one of the most charming spots in the East. This sacred mountain is situated on the summit of a lofty promontory, commanding a magnificent view of the sea, and Acre, backed by the snowy ranges of Lebanon and AntiLebanon. The monastery is the largest and best fitted up establishment in the East. It is built of stone, three stories in height, surmounted by a large dome, under which there is an elegant and finely furnished chapel. We were received here by the monks with great cordiality. The Carmelites do not eat flesh, but live on fish, which they furnish to their guests in every variety; also pastry, and admirable wine, (the vino d'oro,) which they make from their own vineyards. Carmel is mentioned in the book of Kings, where Elijah ordered all Israel, and the prophets of Baal, and the prophets of the groves to assemble.

Descending the lofty steep, we pursued our way northward along the margin of the sea, crossing the Kishon and Belus, to the eastern gate of Acre, through which we rode and examined its bazaars and dismantled walls. The bazaars are well supplied, but Acre no longer

presents the appearance of a well fortified city. Just back of it there is a handsome aqueduct and fountain of the olden time still in perfect preservation. The first object of interest beyond this is a lofty white promontory, corresponding with Mount Carmel, and from which the monastery can be distinctly seen. Not far from this we crossed the famous pass known by the name of the "Ladder of Tyre," and said to have been constructed by Alexander the Great. Being now in the land of ancient Phoenicia, of which Sidon was the capital, we soon came to the Ras el Ain, or the "Fountain Head." Here by the roadside are the remains of three large cisterns, in which the water stands at the depth of many feet, and whence it rushes through different channels and in strong currents to the sea. They are also called Solomon's cisterns, and are said to be those which supplied Tyre with water in the days of Hiram. A portion of the aqueduct still remains. Below the cisterns I noticed a grist mill with three sets of stones, moved by the volume of water flowing from above. Proceeding along the shore, we soon reached the ancient city of Tyre, now called Soor. It was one of the greatest cities in the East, and was destroyed by Nebuchadnezzar (573 B. C.) after a siege of thirteen years, (see Ezekiel xxvi. 4, 12, 21,) about one hundred and seventy years after its destruction by the Assyrians. The Tyrians built insular Tyre, which was taken by Alexander the Great, after a siege of seven months, by filling up the channel which separated it from the continent. After being successively under the power of the Greeks, the Romans, the Crusaders, and the Saracens, it finally fell into the hands of the Turks in 1289. Many relics still remain to prove the importance of the ancient city, such as portions of the old wall, and huge granite columns thirty or forty feet in length, lying about in different parts of the village, and on the sea-shore. The island is now completely connected with the main land. The present village of Soor contains a population of between three and four thousand, and has two mosques and three Christian churches. The site is now a flat and barren point projecting into the sea, with lofty mountains covered with snow in the background. We enjoyed the luxury of a bath in the waters where the shipping of this mighty city was once carried on, and I could not help thinking of the prophecies in the Bible, which are verified, I may say, almost to the letter.

We pitched our tents outside the walls of Soor on a hill of sand, and had the pleasure, about two o'clock in the night, of being aroused by a shower of rain falling on our beds, the tents having been carried away some time previous by a sudden gust of wind. Seeing that our chances of rest were completely broken into, we dressed and protected ourselves as best we could from the pitiless storm by wrapping the tent cloth over us. As you might imagine, we were in a terrible plight the next morning, but with our ardor for sight-seeing not the least abated. Leaving the ancient city of Tyre, where the fishermen spread their nets, we passed along the shore to a considerable stream called Nahr Kasmia, over which there is a beautiful bridge of one arch, constructed by the Romans, and in great preservation. Two hours more brought us to the promontory called Ras Sarfa, the Sarepta of the prophet Elijah. Here are several excavations in the rock, and scattered ruins lying between them and the sea. Not far from this is El Borek, where there is a fountain shaded with trees, and from which there is an aqueduct conveying the water to Sidon, now called Saida, situated on an elevated site commanding a view of Tyre, which is about twenty miles distant. Sidon is a much more beautiful and flourishing place than its sister city, but the prophecies of the Bible can be traced even here, by the most casual observer. A few hours' ride from the hill back of the city is still to be seen in a romantic situation Mar Elias, the residence of Lady Hester Stanhope, who gave up society, friends, and country, to live like a hermit in this desolate region, where her only associates were the untutored natives and an occasional traveller. The Arabs regarded her as a divine creature, and her influence over them was truly wonderful. Even to this day her memory is revered, and her secluded abode held sacred.

From Sidon we passed through gardens filled with orange and lemon trees to a very pretty stream called Nahr el Owely, over which there is an excellent stone bridge. After this the road to Beirout runs along the sea-coast-sometimes upon the sandy beach of the shore, and at others over rocky paths at a little distance from it. Just before reaching Beirout we entered a beautiful grove of pine trees, planted by the famous Fakr el Din, the prince of the Drusesthen through a narrow way hedged in on both sides by sloping embankments of earth, crowned with the prickly pear, and so high that