CHIEF CITIES.

The

been made in and about Calcutta, jungles being cleared away, streets drained, and stagnant water removed. Calcutta, the British capital of India, is situated about Though the situation of Calcutta has not been well 100 miles from the sea, on the east bank of the Hooghley, chosen, it is excellently adapted for commerce. At a branch of the Ganges, in latitude 22° 23′ north, longi- high water the river is here a full mile in breadth. tude 88° 28' east. The length of the town is about six The advantages possessed for inland navigation are miles along the bank of the river. When seen from considerable; foreign imports may be transported with the south, on which side it is built round two sides of great facility, on the Ganges and its tributaries, to the a great open plain, with the Ganges on the west, it pre- north-western quarters of Hindostan, while the valuable sents the view of a very noble city, with tall and stately productions of the interior are received by the same houses ornamented with Grecian pillars and spacious channels. There is at all times a vast quantity of verandas. The esplanade between the town and Fort- merchandise deposited at Calcutta, and the trade carWilliam leaves a grand opening, along the border of ried on is now very extensive. Besides a government which is placed the new and splendid government house, bank, there are three private banks, which circulate erected by the Marquis Wellesley. Fort-William, to a considerable amount. There are several daily, which was commenced by Lord Clive, is the largest and twice-a-week, and weekly newspapers published. The strongest fortress in India, but is considered too exten- religious, and charitable, and educational institutions, sive to be easily defended: its garrison usually consists are numerous and of great service. Society in Calcutta of two European regiments, with artillery, besides a is gay and splendid; and the British inhabitants among supply of native troops. The public buildings of Cal- their own class are described as hospitable, thougli cutta, besides the government house, are a town-hall, jealous of etiquette, and of an overbearing disposition. a court of justice, two churches of the established reli- There are no hotels, or inns, or lodging-houses of any gion, and one for the Scotch presbyterian worship, description-a want which appears perfectly amazing which is a very handsome edifice. There are also seve--and all strangers, male or female, must be provided ral chapels for other religious bodies, mosques, and with introductions to the houses of residents. pagodas the latter generally decayed and ruinous, the expenses of living are very considerable; and as there religion of the people being chiefly conspicuous in their are now no more opportunities of acquiring wealth by worship of the Ganges. Behind the elegant front lines the spoliation of native principalities, fortunes are much of houses is ranged the native town, deep, black, and seldomer realised than formerly. There being also dingy, with various crooked streets, huts of earth baked now fewer deaths, there are fewer chances of promotion. in the sun, or of twisted bamboos, interspersed here According to Mr Hamilton, "Without being attached and there with ruinous brick bazaars, pools of dirty to some department of service, or trained up to some water, cocoa-trees, and little gardens, with some fine mechanical trade, there is little hope of prosperity to a large dirty houses, the residences of wealthy natives. young man migrating on chance from Europe. Here "Fill up this outline," says Bishop Heber, in his valu- all the inferior situations of clerks, overseers, &c., are able Correspondence, "with a crowd of people in the necessarily occupied by the natives; and it is by these street, beyond any thing to be seen even in London, gradations in Europe that young men rise to opulence some dressed in tawdry silks and brocades, more in in the commercial world." The population of Calcutta white cotton garments, and most of all black and naked, is composed of about 14,000 Christians, 48,000 Mahomexcept a scanty covering round the waist, besides figures medans, and 120,000 Hindoos; but this is the amount of religious mendicants with no clothing but their long only within the city proper. If the environs or suburbs hair and beards in elf-locks, their faces painted white be included, the population will amount to perhaps or yellow, their beads in one ghastly lean hand, and the 500,000; and so densely peopled is the surrounding other stretched out like a bird's claw to receive dona- district, that within the circuit of twenty miles there is tions; marriage processions, with the bride in a covered a population of nearly two and a half millions. chair, and the bridegroom on horseback, so swathed round with garlands as hardly to be seen; tradesmen sitting on the ground in the midst of their different commodities, and old men, lookers on, perched naked as monkeys on the flat roofs of the houses; carts drawn by oxen, and driven by wild-looking men with thick sticks, so unmercifully used as to undeceive perfectly all our notions of Brahminical humanity; attendants with silver maces, pressing through the crowd before the carriage of some great man or other; no women Madras, the seat of government of Southern India, seen except of the lowest class, and even these with is situated in the Carnatic, on the shore of the Bay of heavy silver ornaments on their dusky arms and ankles; Bengal, in latitude 13° 5′ north, longitude 80° 21' east. while coaches, covered up close with red cloth, are seen The shore is here low, and dangerous to approach by conveying the inmates of the neighbouring seraglios to vessels. On the beach stands Fort St George, a place of take what is called 'the air;' a constant creaking of cart considerable strength, and which may be easily defended wheels, which are never greased in India, a constant by a small garrison. A noble range of public edifices, clamour of voices, and an almost constant thumping including a customhouse and court-house, also adorn and jingling of drums, cymbals, &c., in honour of their what is called the north beach. Madras differs in apdeities; and add to all this a villanous smell of garlic, pearance from Calcutta. It has properly no European rancid cocoa-nut oil, sour butter, and stagnant ditches, town, the settlers residing in their houses in the midst of and you will understand the sounds, sights, and smells gardens, and transacting business in the district approof what is called the Black Town' of Calcutta. The priated to the residence of the natives. The principal singularity of this spectacle is best and least offensively church in Madras, St George's, is a beautiful edifice. enjoyed on a noble quay which Lord Hastings built There are many excellent charities here; and the school along the shore of the river, where the vessels of all for male and female orphans, into which the philanthroforms and sizes, Arab, Indian, Malay, American, Eng-pic Dr Bell introduced the Lancastrian system of edulish-the crowds of Brahmins and other Hindoos wash-cation, is superior to any thing of the kind in Calcutta. ing and saying their prayers-the lighted tapers, which, towards sunset, they throw in, and the broad bright stream which sweeps by them, guiltless of their impiety and unconscious of their homage-afford a scene such as no European and few Asiatic cities can at all paral-native Christians are numerous and increasing, but are, lel in interest and singularity."

In recent times, considerable improvements have

Serampoor, a Danish settlement, about twelve miles above Calcutta, is the head-quarters of the missionaries sent from Europe, and here a printing-press has been established, from which Bibles in a great variety of languages have been issued. The missionaries also here conduct a college for the education of native Christians, Hindoos, or Mahonimedans. The enterprise and judicious exertions of the missionary body at this place cannot be sufficiently commended.

The society of Madras is more limited than that of Calcutta, but the style of living is similar. The roads in the vicinity are excellent, and afford most agreeable drives to the European residents. According to Heber, "the

unfortunately, a good deal divided about castes." The Armenians are here numerous, and some of them

wealthy. A Scotch Presbyterian church is now erected. | part of this once flourishing city is now in ruins. In The population of Madras and its suburbs has been stated at upwards of 400,000.

the habitable part, the houses are several storeys in
height, and the streets remarkably narrow. There is
a large and ancient fort, surrounded with high walls
and towers of red stone, which commands some noble
views of the city and its environs. The principal sights,
according to Heber, are the Motee Musjeed, a beauti-
ful mosque of white marble, carved with exquisite sim-
plicity and elegance; and the palace built by Akbar,
in a great degree of the same material, and containing
some noble rooms, now sadly disfigured and destroyed
by neglect. Agra has been in some measure renovated
by the British ; and when made the seat of a presidency,
will most likely be still further improved.
Benares is an ancient and highly venerated city in
Hindostan, situated in latitude 25° 30′ north, on an
elevated piece of ground on the banks of the Ganges,
about half-way betwixt Agra and Calcutta. The streets
of this holy city are extremely narrow, and the houses,
which rise to the height of six storeys, are in some cases
united by galleries. The number of stone and brick
houses from one to six storeys high exceeds 12,000,
and the mud houses are about 16,000, besides garden
houses. The number of inhabitants is estimated at
upwards of 600,000, exclusive of a large body of tem-
porary residents, who come hither for religious pur-
poses from all parts of India. Benares may be called
the university town of the Hindoos, as their laws and
religion are here taught by Brahmins and learned men
in various establishments for the purpose. It is also
reckoned to be a place of extraordinary sanctity; and
to die at Benares is the greatest happiness of a Hindoo,
because he is then sure of immediate admission into
heaven. The town is distinguished by a magnificent
temple dedicated to Siva. From its great antiquity,
relics of former greatness, and religious character,
Benares may be considered the most interesting city of
India.

Bombay, the seat of government for the western parts of India, is a small rocky island, lying on the west coast of Hindostan, in latitude 18° 56' north, longitude 72° 57' east. Bombay was originally some hilly rocky islets, but these, by the influence of the high tides, have been joined to each other; and now the island is composed principally of two unequal ranges of whinstone rocks, extending from five to eight miles in length, and at the distance of about three miles from each other. All the ground that can be cultivated is now laid out in agriculture, and the remainder is either barren or covered with the residences of Europeans and natives. These residences are on wet, low, and unhealthy grounds, ever below high-water mark; and from this and other circumstances, Bombay is described as being the most insalubrious of the presidencies. The fort of Bombay is situated at the south-eastern extremity of the island, on a narrow neck of land. The chief advantage of Bombay is its deep tide water, which permits the most extensive system of maritime trade: excellent docks are erected for the accommodation of the shipping. Bombay is the seat of very extensive trade with the Persian Gulf on the north, as well as with the south of India. Cotton is the principal article of export. The population is stated at about 160,000, composed of Christians, Jews, Mahommedans, Hindoos, and Parsees. Delhi, once the capital of the Mogul empire, is situated in 28° 41' north, in the province to which it gives its name, and at the distance of 976 miles from Calcutta. This once magnificent city is said to have, in former times, covered a space of twenty square miles; in the present day an immense number of its ancient streets, houses, temples, and other edifices, are in ruins, and the modern town, removed at some distance from the old, occupies a space of seven miles in circumference. It is seated on a range of rocky hills, and is surrounded by walls, recently improved and strengthened by the British. The city contains many large and good houses, The possessions of the Portuguese in India are now mostly built of brick. There are a great number of confined to Goa, and a small territory round it; Damaun, mosques, with high minarets and gilded domes, and a sea-port in the province of Guzerat; Diu, a small above all are seen the palace of the emperors, a very high island near the southern extremity of the Guzerat penand extensive cluster of Gothic towers and battlements, insula; Dhelli, on the island of Timor; also Macao, in and the Jumna Musjeed, the largest and handsomest China; and establishments on Sumbhawa, Floris, and place of Mahommedan worship in Hindostan. The chief some others of the Eastern Isles. Goa is the only place material of these public buildings is red granite, of an here worthy of notice. It is situated on the west coast agreeable colour, inlaid in some of the ornamental parts of India, in the province of Bejapoor, in latitude 15° 30' with white marble. One of the principal characteristics north, 250 miles south-east of Bombay. During the of Delhi is thus described by Bishop Heber :-"We period of Portuguese dominion in India, this was their passed, in our way to the Agra gate, along a very broad splendid and populous capital, the head-quarters of their but irregular street, with a channel of water, cased with tyranny, the seat of their inquisition. It is now a wilderstone, conducted along its middle. This is part of the ness, of which the monasteries form the only tenanted celebrated aqueduct, constructed, in the first instance, portion, and a few miserable monks, half of them natives, by Ali Merdan Khân, a Persian nobleman in the ser- are the only inhabitants. "Indeed (says Mr Hamilton) vice of the Emperor Shahjehan, then long neglected the city may be traversed from one extremity to the during the troubles of India and the decay of the Mogul other without meeting a human being, or any other signs power, and within these few years repaired by the Eng-of former population than pavements overgrown with lish government. It is conducted from the Jumna, immediately on leaving its mountains, and while its stream is yet pure and wholesome, for a distance of about 120 miles; and is a noble work, giving fertility to a very large extent of country near its banks, and absolutely the sole source of vegetation to the gardens of Delhi, besides furnishing its inhabitants with almost the only drinkable water within their reach."

The British resident at Delhi exercises a most extensive authority, from his having the exclusive charge of the emperor and his family, his taking cognisance of all political events in the north-west of India, and his superintendence of many ex-kings and chiefs. The office is therefore always filled by one of the ablest and most experienced of the public functionaries of the Company. The population of Delhi is now computed not to exceed 200,000.

Agra, the capital of the province of the same name, is commodiously situated on the south-west side of the river Jumna, in latitude 27° 11' north. The greater

PORTUGUESE SETTLEMENTS.

grass, gardens and court-yards choked with underwood, and princely dwellings and venerable abbeys mouldering rapidly to decay." There are still several churches in preservation, also the building once occupied by the inquisition, which has been shut up for many years. Panjim, or New Goa, is situated five miles nearer the entrance to the harbour of Goa, and is now the seat of the Portuguese authorities, and of the business carried The territory in the neighbourhood of Goa, forty miles in length by twenty in breadth, forms the possession of the Portuguese; and it was estimated, in 1808, that within this tract there were two hundred churches and chapels, and above two thousand priests.

on.

INDIAN ISLANDS.

The islands usually considered to belong to India, both from proximity and similarity of social condition, are Ceylon, Sumatra, Java, and Borneo, with the Moluccas and a great number of smaller size. Ceylon, lying between 5° 50′ and 9° 50′ north latitude, and near

are frequently liberated by their owners from motives | thence by a land journey to Suez; down the Red Sca of piety.

Independently of the efforts of the Bishop of India and the religious establishment with which he is connected, the Church of Scotland and other bodies of Christians have for some years been putting forth their exertions to attempt the conversion of the native pagan races, and consequently to elevate their condition. But on the whole, very little success has crowned their wellmeant labours; the loss of caste, which inevitably follows the abandonment of the Hindoo faith, may be stated as a barrier to conversion which no power of persuasion can remove; in short, it has been proved beyond the possibility of doubt, that to Christianise India, the people must in the first place be instructed in secular knowledge. Aware of this fact, attention is beginning to be directed to the education of the young. Fortunately, the general population throughout Bengal and Bahar, where investigations have been made, are zealously anxious for instruction in useful knowledge, as well as to learn the English language; and there is a prospect of a plan of education being carried into effect, on the basis of native schools already in

existence.

From all that we can learn, it would appear that the present rude state of learning among the native population is a degeneracy from something of a lofty character in ancient times. It seems beyond a doubt, that, some thousands of years ago, there was as enlightened a race of inhabitants in Hindostan as there was about the same period in Egypt. Certain remains of art are on a truly gigantic and splendid scale. The most celebrated are the temples of Ellora, a town near Arungabad, 260 miles from Bombay. They are said to extend over a circuit of three leagues, and consist of stupendous edifices sculptured in the solid rock, like the most exact and beautiful architecture. They are generally about 100 feet high, 145 feet long, and 62 feet wide; and contain thousands of sculptured figures, including sphinxes and other objects similar to those now seen among the ruins of Egypt. The history of these now deserted temples is entirely lost, and imagination wanders in quest of their remote and mysterious origin.

from Suez to Bombay, touching at Mocha-total length of time from London to Bombay, sixty-one days. The expense of a single traveller is stated at £153, 19s. 9d.

The circulating medium of India consists of gold and silver coins, paper-money, and cowries. The most common silver currency is the new coinage of Calcutta. Potdars, or money-changers, are a common class in every town, and sit generally in the open air with heaps of cowries placed before them. Cowries are small shells, which, not being depreciable by imitation, form a good medium for buying and selling among the lower classes. Their value varies in different places. The following is their value in Calcutta:-4 cowries 1 gunda; 20 gundas 1 pon; 32 pons 1 current rupee, or two shillings sterling (2560 cowries); 10 current rupees 1 pound sterling. The sicca rupee is 16 per cent. less in value than the current rupee, which is an imaginary coin. The Bombay rupee is valued at 2s. 3d.; a pagoda is 8s. The British government now supplies a handsome and commodious coinage, the more common silver coin being the rupee, which nearly resembles our half-crown.

An idea of the trade with India may be obtained from the following statements:-The leading articles of export to India from Britain in 1832, were cotton manufactures, valued at L.1,531,000; cotton twist and yarn, L.309,000; woollen manufactures, L.237,000; copper, wrought and unwrought, L.364,000; iron, wrought and unwrought, L.144,000; hardware and cutlery, L.82,000; wines, L.150,000; beer and ale, L.87,000; glass, L.101,000; stationery, L.50,000; books, L.27,000; linen manufactures, L.49,000; jewellery, L.33,000; silk manufactures, L.125,000; apparel, L.32,000. Each of the other articles is under L.30,000. Total value of the articles exported, L.3,750,000. In 1838, including those to Ceylon, the total exports were L.3,876,196.

The leading articles of import from India in 1832, were-indigo, L.1,242,000; raw silk, L.1,189,000; cotton wool, L.807,000; saltpetre, L.413,000; coffee, L.284,000 ; sugar, raw, L.209,000; dyed cotton, L.136,000; white calicoes and muslins, L.49,000; rice, not in husk, L.128,000; pepper, L.70,000; tortoise-shell, L.77,000. Each of the other articles was under L.45,000.

The following words are frequently used in reference to India :

Turning from such matters to others more intimately connected with the modern condition of affairs, it is gratifying to anticipate that British capital and skill will speedily be directed in India to the cultivation of sugar, coffee, tobacco, and particularly cotton, all which products, from the extraordinary cheapness of labour, may be increased to an incalculable extent, and with Adawlet, a court of justice.-Bega, a land measure the most enlivening prospect of profit. Hitherto the amounting in Bengal to about the third of an acre.— system of jurisprudence established by the Company Bungalow, a dwelling formed of wood, bamboo, mats, has been a vain mixture of Hindoo, Mahommedan, and and other light materials.-Chokeydar, a watchman.English law, and by no means well calculated to pre- Choultry, a place for the accommodation of travellers. serve public tranquillity. Should the government pro--Circar, a large division of country.-Coolies, labourceed to modify and extend the system of administering ers, or porters.-Coss, a measure of distance not less the laws, at the same time relaxing the burden of tax- than a mile, nor more than two miles.-Crore, ten milation on land, and endeavouring to conciliate the natives lions.-Dacoits, robbers.-Dewan, a head officer of fiuby promoting those worthy of trust, much good might ance.-Dewanny, the privilege of exacting taxes in perbe anticipated. By these and other measures, suited petuity.-Durbar, a court of audience.-Gentoo, a Porto the genius of the people, a solid basis would be tuguese term, signifying a Gentile.-Ghaut, a chain of afforded for the investment of capital, and India would hills, or pass among mountains.-Howdah, the seat elegradually improve both in its moral and physical vated on the back of an elephant.-Lac, one hundred condition. thousand.-Lascar, a native sailor.-Lootie, a plunderer.

governor under the Mogul empire.-Paddy, rice in the husk.-Pagoda, a word of Europeans for a Hindoo temple.-Perwana, a license.-Pergunnah, a certain number of villages, or tract of country.-Peshwa, a leader.-Pundit, a learned Brahmin.-Raja, a king or prince.-Rajpoots, literally, the offspring of kings, now meaning persons of distinction.-Soubah, a district of twenty-two circars.—Subahdar, the governor or viceroy of a soubah.-Tiffin, a lunch, or mid-day meal.— Vakeel, an agent or ambassador.

Until within the last few years, the intercourse with—Musnud, a throne.-Nabob, or Nawaub, a viceroy India was carried on by means of vessels belonging to the East India Company or private traders, which made the passage in about five months by the Atlantic and Cape of Good Hope. This most tedious route is still pursued by trading vessels; but the more expeditious route by the Mediterranean, Egypt, and Red Sea, to Bombay, with concurrence of Mehemet Ali, is adopted for mail conveyance and passengers who desire a quick transit. The line pursued is London to Paris; Paris to Lyons and Marseilles; thence by steam-boat, touching at Leghorn and Naples, to Malta; and by another steamer from Malta to Alexandria; from Alexandria by canal to the Nile, and onwards by boat to Cairo;

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