by the rivers Yang-tsi and Han: these are Hankow, Hanyang, and Wuchang. Were you to pass Hankow during the winter season, and not revisit it until the summer, the change is so complete that you would scarcely think it was the same place. The reason of the change is this:-Many of the houses on the river bank are built upon piles twenty or more feet high. In winter the water is low, and the whole of these piles are visible: in summer the river rises from thirty to thirty-five feet; then the inhabitants can step from the door of these houses into the boat. This, you can fancy, makes a great difference in the appearance of the place. The principal street is said by the natives to be ten miles in length; and, although this may not be quite true, yet it certainly extends for a very long distance by the river bank. The streets are broad and well paved. There is no carriage-road, as all burdens are borne by labourers called coolies. In the summer planks are placed across from roof to roof, and over these matting is put, so that the streets are thus nicely shaded from the sun. The shops are handsome, and well stocked; they have no fronts. The arrangement of their goods, I have often noticed, is very like our own. People of the same trade seem to live near together. As you pass along, you will notice shop after shop with the same kind of articles exposed for sale. For instance, going down one street, you will come upon furniture shops; down another, braziers'; then clothes, &c. And a whole street in Wuchang is devoted to chop-stick makers. Here is a sketch of a bookseller's shop: As their houses are small, they frequently work at their trade in the shop. They are plodding and industrious, but not nearly so active as English workmen. Instead of the name of the owner of the shop and his trade being painted over the front, as we see it in England, they have it in large gilt characters on a long red or black board which hangs by the door, and gives the street, as you look down, a very gay appearance. At night the shops are dimly lighted with oillamps, or lanterns with candles inside; and, as there are no street-lamps, each man carries his own lantern, which generally has his name and place of residence painted upon it. The four brick walls of a private house have usually no other opening than the door. As you enter, there is a small court-yard in the centre, and all the windows open on to this. Very little glass is used: instead, they substitute oiled paper and thin oyster-shells. There are a great many poor. They live in huts made of matting, which are placed against the brick walls of the larger houses. There are also many families living in small boats, in which they cannot stand upright, yet they seem happy and contented. The wants of a Chinaman are few good bedding, and the apparatus for cooking and eating his rice, are what he most cares about. Instead of public-houses they have teashops, which are far better. Here they can walk in, sit down, and have a cup of tea for about the eighth of a penny. They drink it weak, and without sugar or milk. It is the very rarest sight to see a Chinaman intoxicated. Would that the same thing could be said of Englishmen in this Christian country! There are many beggars. Even priests may be seen begging from shop to shop for their support. The usual dress of both men and women is dark blue cotton. The wealthier classes, however, wear silks and satins of many colours. The predominance of one colour strikes the eye at first as being very singular. The complexion of the Chinese is a yellow-brown. All over the empire they have, without exception, black eyes and hair; so that they are very much astonished to see the fair hair and blue eyes of English children. I could tell you many interesting things about the manners and customs of the people, but I will close by telling you what the missionaries are doing for the good of the people of Hankow. In June, 1861, Mr. John and Mr. Wilson, of the London Missionary Society, arrived there. They were the first Protestant missionaries who settled in this city. They rented a house, and very soon preaching was commenced. The people had never before heard this "doctrine," Numbers came to listen. In time the "story of the Cross" touched the heart of one, then another, and another; so that at the present time there are between thirty and forty Church members, besides inquirers. The Society has two churches for the Chinese; one in Hankow, and the other The churches are open for several hours every day, and preaching is going on; but it is not a quiet, orderly service, as we are accustomed to hear: people walk in and out, just as they like. If a barber is passing, he will come in with his shaving apparatus, listen as long as he chooses, then walk out. In like manner, a cobbler with his shoe-mending materials, or a man with his implements for riveting earthenware, or a coolie with his burden. No one is refused admittance; and in this way from two to three hundred hear daily of Jesus in this idolatrous city. There are two services on the Sunday specially for the converts; then passers-by are not allowed to enter, as they would disturb the quiet of those who really wish to worship in sincerity and truth. Many boatmen attend the week-day service, and carry away books to distant places. In this way good seed is sown, which we pray may bring forth an abundant harvest, Hankow has no Sabbath!-no day set apart for worship! Think what a bright spot in the Chinese Empire it would be if its millions of inhabitants were |