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in the middle of summer, and now, in these regions, we are in the midst of winter; but what genial and beautiful weather is winter here! Since crossing the equator, we have never had an unfavourable wind, and the heat is not so oppressive as on the north of it. I read and write as comfortably as at home.

We now fly over the deep at the rate of 140 miles a day. Notwithstanding our generally fine weather since passing the line, we have had frequent squalls; and the sailors say that the south-east trade winds are more variable this voyage than they have ever known them before. Last night they plunged us head foremost into the surge, and laid us at other times almost on our beam-ends: one gets accustomed, if not reconciled, to anything. Had some of those tossings and tumblings of the ship occurred off the coast of England, or even off Madeira, we should have considered them serious affairs indeed; but now our minds and bodies are alike prepared to meet them: we comment upon them very coolly, and after each vagary of the waves, settle ourselves again into the perpendicular as best we may. The great monster of the deep, “the whale,"

“ the whale,” was first seen by us to-day: we had a very distinct view of it, and saw him spout gloriously. The sea was calm, the sun shone brightly, and showed us the brown back of the huge creature above the waters. He was a sperm, and about 70 feet in length. A whale of this kind and size should yield twelve tuns of oil, which, at the rate of 1001.

per tun, makes him a valuable conquest. The black whale is sometimes one hundred and ten feet long.

This evening we have the wind from the north-west, which, in this region and at this period of the year, is an event almost unknown; we are under double-reefed top

ISLAND OF TRINIDAD.

mass.

sails, and have lost within the last twenty-four hours fourteen miles in consequence of this strange shift of the wind.

2nd August.-At six o'clock, about dusk this evening, we saw at a distance of nearly fifty miles the uninhabited island of Trinidad. From the deck it appeared to consist of three parts; but from the mast-head it was seen in one

There was a most splendid sunset, and almost at the same instant the most lovely moon I ever saw, arose; and it was whilst the horizon was one mass of gorgeous clouds, that this little islet, lonely in the sea, was discovered. In five minutes after the sun was below the horizon all was dark, for there is no twilight in these climes. The moon, however, which was quite at the full, speedily gladdened us with a new and milder light.

3rd August.-Numerous birds are around us to-day from this island, which we have now approached within eight miles.

It is six miles in circumference, barren, and uninhabited, except by wild pigs. The highest peak is 1,100 feet above the water. In shape, the whole mass of rock is beautiful, and our sea-wearied eyes are willing to be delighted with any land. It reminds me somewhat of the Assynt hills in Sutherland, irregular, pointed, sharp, and rugged and wild indeed. The sea sometimes rages with awful violence off this rock, near which there is no safety for shipping. It has been seen to break over a rock at the extremity two hundred feet in height. Numbers of pretty white hawk-shaped birds from it are sweeping around us. By an observation taken to-day, and verified by the sight of this island, our chronometers are found to be correct within half a minute of Greenwich time—a degree of accuracy in their mechanisın which is truly wonderful.

5th August.–We have kept this rock of Trinidad in

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sight for five tedious days, but have now at length lost it, and are moving along at about one knot an hour. The monotony and disagreeableness of a calm are extremely trying. The sea motionless, and looking like one vast mirror; the air oppressively still ; every sound, even the lowest, distinctly heard ; lassitude and weariness among all the rational animals, while the irrational ones are panting, and open-mouthed. From six to ten is the only enjoyable time of the day. The heavens are clear; the sunsets more gorgeous in colouring than I ever saw them before ; and the stars inconceivably brilliant.

13

CHAPTER II.

THE VOYAGE OU T.

Dinner arrangements - Table talk-Change of climate- Rapid run- - The

albatross-Violent storm-Dutch ship-Signals-American vessel— Yankee reckonings-Our meals during a storm-Extreme cold-Privations of the sailors-Gale of wind - Mountainous waves-

--Disturbance among the emigrants— Awful tempest— Moral danger of a long voyage-Sunday on board ship-Lewis de Bernstingle-Cape Horn— Island of St. Paul's—Albatross caught-Violent storm-fearful damage to the ship—Providential preservation - Repairs — Narrow escape from fire-Drunken stewardLoss of our carpenter-Long list of damages-First sight of Australia, Van Diemen's Land— The Pacific-Cuttle-fish--Line of the Australian coast, Bass's and Torres' straits--Narrow escape-Shameful neglect-A brickfielder – Heads of Sidney – Botany Bay-Reports relative to the state of the colony-New Zealand boatmen-Severe storm—A bumper at parting--Night of peril— Fortunate change of weather-Land in the bush - Walk to Sydney-A breakfast on shore.

7th August.AMIDST all our subjects of discussion, there is none so minutely treated as that of our table arrangements; it was from the first a matter of great moment, but it seems to increase in interest day by day. Our caterer is accused of not studying variety,—the grand essential of all dinners, but more especially of sea dinners. Everything is good, but not well ordered, one day all our dishes are of mutton; roast mutton, boiled mutton, mutton pies, sheep'shead, dressed after a queer fashion, and mutton broth. The next all are of pork ; roasted, fried, boiled, broiled,

44

TOPICS OF CONVERSATION.

and hashed, with an accompaniment of chops and ham. This is a blunder; but, however monotonous the dishes may be, the conversation is still more so; the mutton of one day is changed for the pork of another; but the topics of conversation know no change. Ships, Java, skippers, and agents; agents, skippers, Java, and ships, in one unvarying round.

We have now fairly turned our back to America : this is somewhat of a disappointment to me, as I wished to have seen the noble capital of Rio de Janeiro, once the brightest gem in the crown of Portugal, and one of the finest harbours and cities in America. But it is some consolation that our prow is towards the land we seek, and it is something to know that our distance is nearly

half run.

10th August.-A tremendous pitching and rolling has tumbled us about all this day,—and the ship is flying through the waves at nine knots. She leaks a good deal at the larboard-bow, and the pumps are worked three or four times a-day. We lie considerably over to that side, and the pitching and rolling, but still more the sound of the pumps, make some of the landsmen look very blank, as if they expected that the poor old Lady Kennaway would not hold together long.

The change of climate is now becoming perceptible, it is much colder, but bracing and excellent for the health of the passengers : it is no small trial to the constitution, these rapid changes of climate, but all on board seem to bear them well.

11th August. - We have had another very boisterous night, and our masts were frequently in danger. Since yesterday at noon—that is, in the last twenty-four hourswe have run two hundred and seventeen miles,—the most

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