You go into a shop-if the man or woman looks as sour as a lemon, you will soon imagine yourself the sun to clear away all mists and vapours. You are asked for the article you select four piastres. Do not look astonished, but offer two. You will be called your Excellency, of course, which is charged in the amount asked. The shopkeeper will throw up his or her eyes, you may hear a few saintsthey are very common all over Italy-called to witness the fairness of the demand; but as none of them appear in person to testify to the truth, you can repeat your proposition; depend upon it, in offering the half, you are nearer the mark. In France, music is always marked at exactly double the price to be paid; and in Naples, such is the unfortunately inveterate habit of endeavouring to overreach everybody, that, with the exception of one or two coral shops, where they profess to ask the just price, there is not a shop in the whole capital which will not take one, or near about the exact half, of the sum demanded. You have to fight, of course, to maintain your proposition-but here you gain, as it is a lesson in Italian, or rather Neapolitan, thrown in for nothing; and you will have plenty of words,

and hear how that poor Sancta Maria is bothered. Pay for and take away what you buy; never give the trouble of having the things sent-it is extraordinary how the sun changes their appearance on the road. I have known a picture changed altogether.

If you take an apartment, drive-or perhaps it is as well to walk-through the Villa Reale, you can get into the shade there-to Mrs. Corby's, 124, Chiaja, Palazzo Bugnanodo not let the first syllable of the palace's name frighten you-there are none; in Mrs. Corby's hands you are safe; she will abide by her word; but if you go into apartments let by a Neapolitan, you cannot be too cautious or too particular: everything will be promised

-I have not the least doubt that some would offer to bring the sea into your dressing-room for a bath-but once established, and the agreement signed, you will find the answer, like Shylock's, when you ask for what has been promised-" Is it so nominated in the bond ?" Neapolitans themselves groan over the wickedness of their countrymen, but-and they shrug their shoulders-whilst the victimizer,

as he secures his prey, utters inwardly, “Purchè sia ben per me, tutto va bene."*

I suppose you comfortably lodged in the Palazzo Bugnano-everybody is your excellency, and lives in a palace, at Naples-the following ought to be about your expense :House rent, in the season, from December to April, 100 piastres per month that is, 3 piastres 3 carlini per day; eating,† wine, oil, candles, hire of one servant, 4 piastres 6 carlini a-day; carriage, 65 piastres a-month2 piastres 2 carlini per diem, making in all

*If, in taking a lodging, you remark the numbers of fleas in the rooms, you will gravely be told, “Questi sono animali nobili ;" it being presumed that other vermin are" animali poveri."

† As cooking utensils are not very abundant or good in Naples, and the cooks generally execrable, the best plan is to have the dinners from a ristoratore, at about two ducats a-day, for two masters and two servants. You will have ample for breakfast and luncheon. The best cook and ristoratore of this description is Gennaro, Strada Vittoria, No. 14. For large parties, suppers, &c., Nocera, in the Strada Chiaja, is the most renommé. I have not the least hesitation in saying, that a Neapolitan family, of an equal number of people, would live for half the amount I have stated-and live well, and make a great show out of doors. Macaroni goes a great way when it is not sufficiently boiled; it swells internally.

9 piastres 11 carlini daily. Taking the exchange at 600 grani to the pound sterling, the above will make, in English money, £1 19s. 8d. The apartments may be had for less, or more, as the season is good or bad, and your contract with the French cook may be somewhat reduced; but for 2 piastres a-day, you ought to be most handsomely served; indeed, 18 carlini, or one piastre and a half, is quite sufficient for two masters and two servants. As regards the carriage, you have an open or a shut one at your command and discretion, night or day; and this sum, 65 piastres, ought to include the "buona mano" to the coachman.

You are now housed, fed, and have a carriage you go into society-let this be your motto: "Chi vuol vivere in pace, Vede, ascolta, e tace." You will find this as well worth remembering as the prices enumerated.

You may arrive by the steam-boat, and after viewing with delight the really-splendid view of Naples, come to an anchor in the port. You think, of course, proud son of Albion, as you are! that you are going to land-quite the reverse. You are going to remain on board in vain you approach the gangway; there is a faithful servant of his majesty's

Aspettate, Signore," is the word. The captain has gone on shore, and taken with him. all the passports; and it does not necessarily follow that, because your passport is properly viséed, you will be allowed to land at all; but providing you are not upon the register of forbidden names, you may be handed over to the custom-house harpies, after a lingering time, varying from half an hour to an hour and a half, and that time invariably appears the longest of the whole journey. Even when coming from Sicily, the same vexatious form is observed. Before you embark, your passport is taken from you, and it is returned when you are voted sufficiently sane and loyal to land in King Bomba's dominions.

There was at Leghorn a young man of about nineteen, who sent his passport to be visèed by the Neapolitan authorities in that port; the vise was refused, the consul was applied to, and inquiries made; it was of no use; in the forbidden books stood the name of Thomas Paine, who was a republican, and wrote the "Rights of Man, or Common Sense," "Age of Reason," &c.; and as this unfortunate. young man rejoiced in the same name, his passport was refused. It was no use telling