the words of gratitude and respect I uttered, by mentioning what I have written.

It was not the mere hospitality, and that was excessive, that won all our admiration; it was the Christian-like meekness and mildness, mixed with the liveliness of contentment, which charmed us he had made his home amongst his flock, and he was happy in his charge. I doubt much if, taking Calatafime as the centre of the circle, he had ever made a circumference of ten miles. Foreign politics engaged not his attention; he never saw a newspaper, as none were printed in his village, and few were rich enough to have the day's history forwarded from Naples, and they would have been fortunate then, had they received the intelligence within a month of its publication. Yet was this man as happy and contented as if the whole world was concentrated in his parish, and listened to and obeyed his exhortation, to love one another, fear God, and honour the king.

The battle and the party being over, the lady's excitement was changed for a flood of tears. My reverend friend dived into the orange basket, the revolver was quietly stowed away, and I, mounted upon the box, looked

back with regret at Calatafime, watching for another and another view of the Temple of Segesta, and then looking forward to the beautiful cultivated country which yet separated us from Partenico.

The early rising and the excitement at parting, not to mention the plentiful supply at breakfast, soon operated upon those in the carriage, and they began to enjoy travelling by falling fast asleep, and dreaming, no doubt, of the magnificence in which Nature has clothed this favoured island. But very short were these slumbers and these dreams, for a bottle of porter, comfortably excited by heat, and rendered furious by the motion, burst beneath their feet, and awoke them in great alarm. The lady screamed, of course-my honourable friend endeavoured to find the revolver, and the reverend gentleman kicked up his heels, and thought he was somehow going to be swamped, as his shoes were full, and his lower extremities covered with froth and foam. That little event kept the party awake, and cheerful until we dismissed our escort at the Porta Nuova of Palermo, and we rattled over the pavement to Ragusa's comfortable hotel.

We found the next morning that the Vice

roy had started for Naples to see his son, who was reported dangerously ill. This altered our projected tour round the island to Messina, for we had seen quite enough of a Sicilian inn to run the risk of being shut up there for even a night: we therefore resolved to return to Naples; and I confess I came to the resolution with regret.

The Bay was now plentifully supplied with shipping, and the scene far more animated than usual. For the first time I saw Mount Etna from Ragusa Terrace; it must be about one hundred and twenty miles distant; the weather was clear and fine, and a number of steamers had arrived, whilst a multitude of vessels, mostly under American colours, were availing themselves of the light breeze to clear the land and make the best of their voyage.

The trade with the United States has wonderfully increased of late years, and is still increasing; the stripes and the stars are as numerous as the English flags; the only colours which are seldom seen are those of the Two Sicilies; nor are the French ships so numerous as might be expected. The principal trade is carried on in foreign shipping;

and if, instead of vexatious and petty annoyances, a more liberal and better organized system were adopted, a much more profitable return might be made to the Neapolitan government.

CHAPTER VIII.

SOCIETY IN SICILY.

IN recalling to my memory what Sicily was under the prudent and liberal administration of Lord William Bentinck, I do not see much to approve in the present system. Naples and Sicily, twin sisters in beauty, half ruin each other by their jealousy and their hatred. In fact, with the exception of the road to Marsala, I could discover few, if any, improve

ments.

There is no chance of railroads; gas is refused; and that which is the most requisite, especially as far as regards the security of the island, the electric telegraph, is not very likely to convey its instantaneous despatches between Naples and Palermo; yet this would cost but little, especially as the Pharo of