cacy of ice, which we had so much commended the previous evening, been forgotten. The feast done, the difficulties of departure began.

Every traveller in Sicily and elsewhere knows that when he is received in the curé's house, he cannot insult him by asking for his bill; and it requires some difficulty and delicacy to leave an equivalent. In my case, no equivalent could be left, for the reception was one of the truest hospitality; but I could not depart, having been fed so sumptuously, and received so generously, without some endeavour on my part to repay what I well knew the curé could so little afford to disburse. I had drawn him purposely into a conversation upon the wants of his parishioners, saying, "I had observed many, many poor." The account the worthy curé gave, emboldened me to request his acceptance of a sum of money for them; but he meekly folded his arms across his breast, and, in his mild voice, declared it was impossible to accept from the friends of his excellency the viceroy any money whatever. In vain I urged my request; the curé informed me that he supplied the wants of the most necessitous, and that, although

the parish was not prosperous, there were those around who were rich and charitable.

After a long argument on my side, and a steady refusal on his-for he stood always in the same position, and every word he uttered bearing the impress of the truth-I declared that my conscience would not allow me to leave a town which, from the kindness I had received, would ever remain fixed on my memory, without contributing to its charities; and as I repeated, laying a great stress upon the word conscience, my determination somehow to effect my purpose, the curé said, if it were a case of conscience, he would waive his objection, and I placed in his hands-not one half of what I ought to have done. The whole he never would have accepted, for, as it was, he endeavoured to moderate what he dignified as liberality. The servants were more easily managed, and perhaps did not require to be much pressed.

We had taken our first leave of our generous, liberal friends, for no power of persuasion could overcome their resolution not to allow us to pay for our horses, mules, donkeys, guides, and boys, and descended to get into the carriage and here I will quote verbatim

from my diary. "We were indebted to the viceroy for all the attention we received at Calatafime, and which I could but feebly describe if I had a hundred times the space I have. It must be wound up in a few words. Nothing could be more warm, more sincere, more affectionate; and of this I am convinced, all the party were as deeply impressed as myself: there was a scene at parting characteristic enough of the people. As we arrived with all the honours of an escort, which escort awaited our return, and had taken care of us even to the temple—it was presumed we were people of consequence--illustrious foreigners of distinction, although without beards or mustachios so the whole of the lower and lowest part of the population turned out to see us off. The curé took charge of my little wife; but no sooner had she passed the threshold, than a rush of beggars endeavoured to seize her hand. She was in an instant hemmed in, surrounded, and almost imprisoned. She could not stir a step, nor could I, or any of the party, get to the rescue, except by force. It was quite a novel mode of attack to obtain charity; those behind pushed on those in front; many fell down, and the others walked over

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them. In her anxiety to get out of such a disagreeable position, my wife threw some grani in the air, and never did I witness such a battle it was impossible to advance a step without treading on the sprawling children, or more resolute women. The carriage was not ten paces distant; the escort, which now might have been of the greatest service, for it had become one of real danger to a lady, had quietly walked on in advance, and the ten paces were impossible to be made.

As I saw that this partook more of obtaining charity by force than by supplication, I was not nice in my footsteps, and got to the assistance of my wife. In the meantime, Pampeluna raised his hands and his voice, imploring the people to behave with more decency and respect, declaring we had left with him for the poor a magnificent sum; that the lady was frightened and hurt, and that they would better mark their gratitude by a proper and respectful conduct. Pampeluna might as well have whistled to the wind; those down on the ground began to fight in earnest to recover their legs, whilst those who pushed from behind tumbled over those who were rising; and to make the matter worse, the

lane leading from the street to the entrance of the curé's house was narrow. I relieved the pressure by throwing some grani over the heads of those nearest to us, who turned round, and thus checked the torrent; then, disregarding the prostrate position of his Majesty's subjects, I forced my wife over those who were sprawling, and got her safe into the carriage.

In the meantime, the curé, the cure's brother, and the curé of the two thousand, bellowed loudly in pure Sicilian against the rudeness and ingratitude of the natives-but they disregarded the admonition; they saw the prospect of obtaining something immediately. Promises and hopes often fail.

As we had established the party in comparative safety, and had emptied the sack of grani, we once again took a sincere and affectionate leave of Pampeluna, his brother, and the curé; and if this book should ever fall into the hands of any traveller who may make the acquaintance of these liberal, excellent people, that traveller cannot confer a higher favour on me than by recalling me to the curé's remembrance, and confirm in his mind