its banks: at the head two vallies open among the mountains: one, that by which we came down, the other Langdale, in which Wrynose and Hardknot, two great mountains, rise above the rest: from thence the fells visibly sink, and soften along its sides; sometimes they run into it (but with a gentle declivity) in their own dark and natural complexion: oftener they are green and cultivated, with farms interspersed, and round eminences, on the border covered with trees: towards the south it seemed to break into large bays, with several islands, and a wider extent of cultivation. The way rises continually, till a place called Orrest-head where it turns south-east, losing sight of the water. Passed by Ings chapel, and Staveley; but I can say no farther, for the dusk of the evening coming on, I entered Kendal almost in the dark, and could distinguish only a shadow of the castle on a hill, and tenter grounds spread far and wide round the town, which I mistook for houses. My inn promised sadly, having two wooden galleries, like Scotland, in front of it; it was indeed an ill-contrived house, but kept by civil, sensible people; so I stayed two nights with them, and fared and slept very comfortably. Oct. 9. The air mild as summer, all corn off the ground, and the sky-larks singing alound (by the way, I saw not one at Keswick, perhaps because the place abounds in birds of prey.) I went up the castle-hill: the town chiefly consists of three nearly parallel streets, almost a mile long; except these, all the other houses seem as if they had been dancing a country dance, and were out: there they stand back to back, corner to corner, some up-hill, some down, without intent or mean ing. Along by their side runs a fine brisk stream, over which there are three stone bridges: the buildings (a few comfortable houses excepted) are mean, of stone, and covered with a Craven, after all, is an unpleasing country when seen from a height; its vallies are chiefly wide, and either marshy or inclosed pasture, with a few trees. Numbers of black cattle are fatted here, both of the Scotch breed, and a larger sort of oxen with great horns. There is a little cultivated ground, except a few oats. Skipton, to which I went through Long-Preston and Gargrave, is a pretty large market town, in a valley, with one very broad street gently sloping downwards from the castle, which stands at the head of it. This is one of the good Countess's buildings*, but on old foundations: it is not very large, but of a handsome antique appearance, with round towers. A grand gateway, bridge, and moat, surrounded by many old trees. It is in good repair, and kept up as the habitation of the Earl of Thanet, though he rarely comes thither what with sleet, and a foolish dispute about chaises, that delayed me, I did not see the inside of it, but went help adding that I have seen one piece of verbal description which completely satisfies me, because it is throughout assisted by masterly delineation. It is composed by the Rev. Mr. Gilpin, of Cheam, in Surrey; and contains, among other places, an account of the very scenes, which, in this tour, our author visited. This gentleman, possessing the conjoined talents of a writer and designer, has employed them in this manuscript to every purpose of picturesque beauty, in the description of which, a correct eye, a practised pencil, and an eloquent pen, could assist him. He has, consequently, produced a work unique in its kind at once. But I have said it is in manuscript, and, I am afraid, likely to continue so; for would his modesty permit him to print it, the great expense of plates would make its publication impracticable. [This excellent note seems to contain the justest criticism on the nature and powers of verbal description, as applied to landscapes and prospects. And now that the reader has gone through our author's specimens of it in the foregoing Guide, if it appear that he hath not availed himself of these precepts as much as he might have done, he may take a scrutiny into his errors, a critical lesson, in the next degree useful to instructions derived from such examples as Mr. Gray's; and thus reap improvement as well as amusement, from the efforts of a hasty and redundant pen.-Mr. Gilpin's tour has been since published.] Ann Countess of Pembroke and Montgomery. on fifteen miles to Otley: first up Shode-bank, the steepest hill I ever saw a road carried over in England, for it mounts in a straight line (without any other repose for the horses than by placing stones every now and then behind the wheels) for a full mile; then the road goes on a level along the brow of this high hill over Rumbald-moor, till it gently descends into Wharfdale, so they call the vale of the Wharf, and a beautiful vale it is, well wooded, well cultivated, well inhabited, but with high crags at a distance, that border the green country on each hand; through the midst of it, deep, clear, and full to the brink, and of no inconsiderable breadth, runs in long windings, the river. How it comes to pass that it should be so fine and copious a stream here, and at Tadcaster (so much lower) should have nothing but a wide stony channel without water, I cannot tell you. I passed through Long Addingham, Ilkeley, (pronounced Eecly) distinguished by a lofty brow of loose rocks to the right; Burkley, a neat and pretty village among trees; on the opposite side of the river lay Middleton-lodge, belonging to a catholic gentleman of that name; Weston, a venerable stone fabric, with large offices, of Mr. Vavasour, the meadows in front gently descending to the water, and behind a great and shady wood; Farnly (Mr. Fowke's) a place like the last, but larger and rising higher on the side of the hill. Otley is a large airy town, with clean but low rustic buildings, and a bridge over the Wharf; I went into its spacious gothic church, which has been new-roofed, with a flat stucco ceiling; in a corner of it is the monument of Thomas Lord Halifax, and Helen Aske, his lady, descended from the Cliffords and Latimers, as her epitaph says; the figures (which are not ill cut, particularly his in armour, but bare-headed) lie on the tomb. I take them to be the parents of the famous Sir Thomas Fairfax ARTICLE IV. ODE TO THE SUN. BY MR. CUMberland, puBLISHED IN 1776. SOUL of the world, refulgent sun! Oh, take not from my ravish'd sight Lo! where ruffian clouds arise, And seize the etherial throne: I hear terrific Lowdore roar ; The sabbath of thy reign is o'er, The anarchy's begun ; Father of light! return; break forth, refulgent sun! What if the rebel blast shall rend These nodding horrors from the mountain's brow- Ah, save the votarist, and accept the vow! And say, through thy diurnal round, Where, great spectator, hast thou found Where Penitence may plant its meek abode, Now by the margin of the glassy deep, Shake the grot where nature dwells: And in the witching hour of night, Whilst thy pale sister lends her shadowy light, Trembling now with giddy tread, Where step of man was never found; Peace to thy empire, queen of calm desires, Press not so fast upon my aching sight, Gigantic shapes; nor rear your heads so high, Sons of old chaos and primeval night. When on the cliffs he hung his tow'ring cell, And half-ascended to his God. The prim canal, the level green, The close-clipt hedge, that bounds the flourish'd scene, What rapture can such forms impart, With all the spruce impertinence of art! Ye pageant streams, that roll in state By the vain windows of the great, Rest on your muddy ooze, and see Q |