its banks: at the head two vallies open among the mountains: one, that by which we came down, the other Langdale, in which Wrynose and Hardknot, two great mountains, rise above the rest: from thence the fells visibly sink, and soften along its sides; sometimes they run into it (but with a gentle declivity) in their own dark and natural complexion: oftener they are green and cultivated, with farms interspersed, and round eminences, on the border covered with trees: towards the south it seemed to break into large bays, with several islands, and a wider extent of cultivation. The way rises continually, till a place called Orrest-head where it turns south-east, losing sight of the water.

Passed by Ings chapel, and Staveley; but I can say no farther, for the dusk of the evening coming on, I entered Kendal almost in the dark, and could distinguish only a shadow of the castle on a hill, and tenter grounds spread far and wide round the town, which I mistook for houses. My inn promised sadly, having two wooden galleries, like Scotland, in front of it; it was indeed an ill-contrived house, but kept by civil, sensible people; so I stayed two nights with them, and fared and slept very comfortably.

Oct. 9. The air mild as summer, all corn off the ground, and the sky-larks singing alound (by the way, I saw not one at Keswick, perhaps because the place abounds in birds of prey.) I went up the castle-hill: the town chiefly consists of three nearly parallel streets, almost a mile long; except these, all the other houses seem as if they had been dancing a country dance, and were out: there they stand back to back, corner to corner, some up-hill, some down, without intent or mean ing. Along by their side runs a fine brisk stream, over which there are three stone bridges: the buildings (a few comfortable houses excepted) arc mean, of stone, and covered with a

bad rough-cast*. Near the end of the town stands a handsome house of Colonel Wilson's, and adjoining to it the church, a very large gothic fabric, with a square tower, it has no particular ornaments but double aisles, and at the east end four chapels or choirs; one of the Parrs, another of the Stricklands, the third is the proper choir of the church, and the fourth of the Bellingham's, a family now extinct. There: is an altar tomb of one of them dated 1577, with a flat brass arms and quarterings; and in the window their arms alone, arg. a hunting horn sab. strung gules. In the Stricklands' chapel several monuments, and another old altar tomb not belonging to the family: on the side of it a fess dancette between ten billets deincourt. In the Parrs' chapel is a third altar tomb in the corner, no figure or inscription, but on the side cut an escutcheon of Ross of Kendal (three water buckets) quartering Parr, (two bars in a bordure engrailed). 2dly, an escutcheon, vaire, a fess for Marmion; 3dly, an escutcheon, three chevronels braced, and a chief (which I take for Fitzhugh) at the foot is an escutcheon, surrounded with the garter, bearing Ross and Parr quarterly, quartering the other two before-mentioned. I have no books to look in, therefore cannot say, whether this is the Lord Parr, of Kendal, Queen Catharine's father, or her brother the Marquis of Northampton; perhaps it is a cenotaph for the latter, who was buried at Warwick, in 1571. The remains of the castle are seated on a fine hill on the side of the river opposite the town; almost the whole inclosure of the walls remain, with four towers, two square and two round, but their upper parts

[The accounts of things given by hasty travellers, are generally inaccurate and often injudicious. As to the principal streets in Kendal, they are neither three in number, nor nearly parallel. They are but two. One about a mile in length, and another about half a mile. These' streets contain indeed not many elegant houses; they are however on the whole as open and well-built as in most other towns. As to the bad roughcast our author speaks of, judges of rough-cast have always supposed this country no way deficient in the materials, or in the manner of laying it on.]

or embattlements are demolished; it is of rough stone and cement, without any ornament or arms, round, inclosing a court of like form, and surrounded by a moat; nor could it ever ¡have been larger than it is, for there are no traces of out-works. There is a good view of the town and river, with a fertile open valley, through which it winds.

After dinner I went along the Millthorp turnpike, four miles to see the falls, or force of the river Kent; came to Sizergh (pronounced Siser), and turned down a lane to the left. This seat of the Stricklands, an old catholic family, is an ancient hall house, with a very large tower, embattled; the rest of the buildings added to it are of a later date, but all is white and seen to advantage on a back ground of old trees; there is a small park also well wooded. Opposite to this, turning to the left, I soon came to the river; it works its way in a narrow and deep rocky channel, overhung with trees. The calmness and brightness of the evening, the roar of the waters, and the thumping of huge hammers at an iron forge not far distant, made it a singular walk; but as to the falls (for there are two) they are not four feet high. I went on down to the forge, and saw the demons at work by the light of their own fires; the iron is brought in pigs to Millthorp, by sea, from Scotland, &c. and is here beat into bars and plates. Two miles farther, at Levens, is the seat of Lord Suffolk, where he sometimes passes the summer; it was a favourite place of his late Countess; but this I did not see.

Oct. 10. I proceeded by Burton to Lancaster, twenty-two miles; very good country, well inclosed and wooded, with some common interspersed. Passed at the foot of Farlton-knot, a high fell. Four miles north of Lancaster, on a rising ground, called Bolton (pronounced Bouton) we had a full view of Cartmel sands, with here and there a passenger riding over them (it being low water) the points of Furness shooting far into the sea, and lofty mountains, partly covered with clouds,

extending north of them. Lancaster also appeared very conspicuous and fine; for its most distinguished features, the castle and church, mounted on a green eminence, were all that could be seen. Woe is me! when I got thither, it was the second day of the fair; the inn, in the principal street, was a great old gloomy house, full of people; but I found tolerable quarters, and even slept two nights in peace.

.

In a fine afternoon I ascended the castle-hill; it takes up the higher top of the eminence on which it stands, and is ir◄ regularly round, encompassed with a deep moat; in front, towards the town, is a magnificent gothic gateway, lofty and huge; the overhanging battlements are supported by a triple range of corbels, the intervals pierced through, and showing the day from above. On its top rise light watch towers of small height. It opens below with a grand pointed arch; over this is a wrought tabernacle, doubtless once containing its founder's figure; on one side a shield of France semi-quartered with England; on the other the same, with a label, ermine, for John of Gaunt, Duke of Lancaster This opens to a court within, which I did not much care to enter, being the county gaol, and full of prisoners, both criminals and debtors. From this gateway the walls continue and join it to a vast square tower of great height, the lower part at least of remote antiquity; for it has small round-headed lights, with plain short pillars on each side of them: there is a third tower, also square, and of less dimensions. This is all the castle. Near it, and but a little lower, stands the church, a a large and plain gothic fabric, the high square tower at the west end has been re-built of late years, but nearly in the same style; there are no ornaments or arms, &c. any were to be seen; within it is lightsome and spacious, but not one mɔnument of antiquity, or piece of painted glass is left. From the church-yard there is an extensive sea-view, (for now the tide had almost covered the sands, and filled the river) and besides the greatest part of Furness, I could distinguish Peel

castle on the isle of Foudry, which lies off its southern extremity. The town is built on the slope, and at the foot of the castle-hill, more than twice the bigness of Aukland, with many new buildings of neat white stone, but a little disorderly in their position, and "ad libitum," like Kendal; many also extend below on the quays, by the river side, where a number of ships were moored, some of them three-masted vessels, decked out with their colours in honour of the fair. Here is a good bridge of four arches over the Lune, that runs, when the tide is out, in two streams, divided by a bed of gravel, which is not covered but in spring tides; below the town it widens to near the breadth of the Thames at London, and meets the sea at five or six miles distance to south-west.

Oct. 11. I crossed the river and walked over a peninsula three miles, to the village of Poulton, which stands on the beach. An old fisherman mending his nets (while I enquired about the danger of passing those sands) told me, in his dialect, a moving story, how a brother of the trade, a Cockler, as he styled him, driving a little cart with two daughters (women grown) in it, and his wife on horseback following, set out one day to cross the seven mile sands, as they had been frequently used to do; (for nobody in the village knew them better than the old man did) when they were about half-way over, a thick fog rose, and as they advanced they found the water much deeper than they expected; the old man was puzzled; he stopped, and said he would go a little way to find some mark he was acquainted with; they staid a while for him, but in vain; they called aloud, but no reply; at last the young woman pressed the mother to think where they were, and go on; she would not leave the place: she wandered about forlorn and amazed; she would not quit her horse and get into the cart with them; they determined after much time wasted, to turn back, and give themselves up to the guidance of their horses. The old woman was soon washed off, and perished; the poor girls clung close to their cart, and