Imágenes de página
PDF
ePub

which is here, and elsewhere, crowned with a timber-growth of pines, cedar, oaks, and shrubbery of various kinds. On his extreme right, is a gigantic cliff lifting itself up perpendicularly from the water's edge, to the height of about three hundred feet, and accompanied by an insulated cliff, called the chimney, of about the same altitude, rising in the form of a turret, at least sixty feet above its basement, which is a portion of the imposing cliff just before mentioned.

The following passages are from Col. Long's private journal, which he gives in addition to the above:

The creek, which is about seven yards wide, and has a general course of about s. 15 w., here passes through a hill elevated from two to three hundred feet above the surface of the stream, winding its way through a huge subterraneous cavern, or grotto, whose roof is vaulted in a peculiar manner, and rises from seventy to eighty feet above its floor. The sides of this gigantic cavern rise perpendicularly in some places to the height of fifteen or twenty feet, and in others, are formed by the springing of its vaulted roof immediately from its floor. The width of the tunnel varies from fifty to one hundred and fifty feet; its course is that of a continuous curve, resembling the letter S-first winding to the right as we enter on the upper side, then to the left, again to the right, and then again to the left, on arriving at the entrance on the lower side. Such is its peculiar form, that an observer, standing at a point about midway of its subterranean course, is completely excluded from a view of either entrance, and is left to grope in the dark through a distance of about twenty yards, occupying an intermediate portion of the tunnel. When the sun is near the meridian, and his rays fall upon both entrances, the light reflected from both extremities of the tunnel contributes to mollify the darkness of this interior portion into a dusky twilight.

The extent of the tunnel from its upper to its lower extremity, following its meanders, is about one hundred and fifty yards, in which distance the stream falls about ten feet, emitting, in its passage over a rocky bed, an agreeable murmur, which is rendered more grateful by its reverberations upon the roof and sides of the grotto. The discharge of a musket produces a crash-like report, succeeded by a roar in the tunnel, which has a deafening effect upon the ear. The hill through which this singular perforation leads, descends in a direction from east to west, across the line of the creek, and affords a very convenient passage for a road which traverses it at this place, having a descent in the direction just mentioned of about four degrees.

In the view of the lower entrance to the Natural Tunnel, there is represented an occurrence which took place many years since. At this point the deep gorge, through which the creek passes, is bounded on three sides by a perpendicular wall of rock over 300 feet in height, the fourth side being open to allow the passage of the creek after leaving the mouth of the tunnel. The rocks at this place have several small caves, or fissures, in which the nitrous earth from which saltpetre is extracted has been found. One or more of these are in the sides of the tunnel itself. A gentleman informed us that the first time he visited the tunnel, some persons were inside extracting saltpetre, and that the smoke belching forth from its mouth and curling up the gorge, enhanced the natural gloom and hideousness of the scene. In the late war, when saltpetre was very scarce, the small fissure in the wall of rock-at that place over 300 feet high-shown in the view, attracted attention, and it was determined to explore it. An adventurous individual, by the name of George Dotson, was accordingly lowered from the top by a rope running over a log, and held by several men. The rope not being sufficiently long, the last length, which was tied around his waist, was made of the bark of leatherwood. When down to the level of the fissure, he was still 12 or 14 feet from it horizontally, being thrown so by the overhanging of the wall of rock. With a long pole, to which was attached a hook, he attempted to pull himself to the fissure. He had nearly succeeded, when the hook slipped, and he swung out into the middle of the ravine, pendulum-like, on a rope of perhaps 150 feet in length. Returning on his fearful vibration, he but managed to ward himself off with his pole from being dashed against the rock.

[graphic][merged small]

when away he swung again. One of his companions, stationed on the opposite side of the ravine to give directions, instinctively drew back, for it appeared to him that he was slung at him across the abyss. At length the vibrations ceased. At that juncture Dotson heard something crack above his head: he looked, and saw that a strand of his bark rope had parted. Grasping, with both hands, the rope immediately above the spot, he cried out hastily, "Pull! for sake pull!" On reaching the top he fainted. On another occasion, the bark rope being replaced by a hempen one, he went down again and explored the cave. His only reward was the satisfaction of his curiosity. The hole extended only a few feet.

SHENANDOAH.

SHENANDOAH was established in 1772, from Frederick, under the name of Dunmore; but in October, 1777, after Lord Dunmore had taken a decided stand against the colonists, one of the delegates from the county stated, "that his constituents no longer wished to live in, or he to represent, a county bearing the name of such a tory; he therefore moved to call it Shenandoah, after the beautiful stream which passes through it;" and it was accordingly done. It is 32 miles long, with a mean width of 15 miles. The eastern and western portions are mountainous. The central part of the county is watered by the north fork of the Shenandoah, and the soil is extremely fertile. Population in 1840, whites 10,320, slaves 1,033, free colored 265; total, 11,618.

Woodstock, the county-seat, is 150 miles ww. of Richmond, and 32 ssw. of Winchester, on the Staunton and Winchester macadamized turnpike, and about a mile from the N. fork of the Shenandoah. The town was established in March, 1761. It contains several mercantile stores, 1 newspaper printing-office, an academy, a masonic hall, 1 German Reformed, 1 Lutheran, and 1 Methodist church, and a population of over 1,000. New Market was established in 1784. It is situated on the main turnpike through the valley of Virginia, about 20 miles south of Woodstock, and 18 N. of Harrisonburg: it contains six mercantile stores, 1 Lutheran, 1 Baptist, and 1 Methodist church, an academy, and a population of about 700. The Massanutten Fall, a beautiful cataract of nearly 50 feet perpendicular descent, is situated on a mountain of the same name, about three miles east of this village. The north fork of the Shenandoah runs within a mile on the west of the town, and is navigable, at high water, for large boats, to the Plain Mills. Strasburg is on the main turnpike, and on the N. branch of the Shenandoah, 12 miles N. of Woodstock: it contains 1 free, 1 Presbyterian, and 1 Lutheran church, and 85 dwellings. Edinburg, formerly called Stony Creek, is 5 miles ssw. of Woodstock: it is flourishing, and contains about 30 dwellings. Stony Creek, on which it is situated, is a bold stream, containing excellent sites for manufactories.

The Orkney or Yellow Springs, are about 18 miles southwest of Woodstock. "The waters are composed of several lively springs, and are strongly chalybeate. Every thing the water passes through, or over, is beautifully lined with a bright yellow fringe or moss. The use of this water is found beneficial for the cure of several complaints. A free use of this water acts as a most powerful cathartic, as does also a small quantity of the fringe, or moss, mixed with common water." There is, high up on Cedar creek, an ebbing and flowing spring. It is " a beautiful spring of clear mountain water, issuing from the western side of the Little North mountain, in a glen. It ebbs and flows twice in every twenty-four hours; and if care is not particularly taken at every flow, its current is so strong as to overset the vessels of milk placed in the water."

This county was settled by Germans from Pennsylvania, a plain, frugal, and industrious people. Within the memory of those living, the German language was universally spoken among them, and is now, to a considerable extent. A traveller in this section during the French and Indian war, draws a glowing description of their condition. He says:

The low grounds upon the banks of the Shenandoah are very rich and fertile. They are chiefly settled by Germans, who gain a sufficient livelihood by raising stock for the troops, and sending butter down into the lower parts of the country. I could not but reflect with pleasure on the situation of these people; and think, if there is such a thing as happiness in this life, they enjoy it. Far from the bustle of the world, they live in the most delightful climate and richest soil imaginable. They are everywhere surrounded with beautiful prospects and sylvan scenes-lofty mountains, transparent streams, falls of water, rich valleys, and majestic woods; the whole interspersed with an infinite variety of flowering shrubs, constitute the landscape surrounding them. They are subject to few diseases, are generally robust, and live in perfect liberty. They are ignorant of want, and are acquainted with but few vices. Their inexperience of the elegances of life, precludes any regret that they have not the means of enjoying them; but they possess what many princes would give half their dominions for-health, content, and tranquillity of mind.

The Historian of the Valley has given the particulars of several incursions of the Indians into this region, from which we select the following:

In the year 1758, a party of about fifty Indians and four Frenchmen penetrated into the Mill Creek neighborhood, about nine miles south of Woodstock, and committed some murders, and carried off forty-eight prisoners. Among them was a young lad of the name of Fisher, about thirteen years of age.

After six days' travel they reached their villages west of the Alleghany mountains, where they held a council, and determined to sacrifice their helpless prisoner, Jacob Fisher. They first ordered him to collect a quantity of dry wood. The poor little fellow shuddered, burst into tears, and told his father they intended to burn him. His father replied, "I hope not;" and advised him to obey. When he had collected a sufficient quantity of wood to answer their purpose, they cleared and smoothed a ring around a sapling, to which they tied him by one hand, then formed a trail of wood around the tree, and set it on fire. The poor boy was then compelled to run round in this ring of fire until his rope wound him up to the sapling, and then back, until he came in contact with the flame, while his infernal tormentors were drinking, singing, and dancing around him, with "horrid joy." This was continued for several hours; during which time the savage men became beastly drunk, and as they fell prostrate to the ground, the squaws would keep up the fire. With long sharp poles, prepared for the purpose, they would pierce the body of their victim whenever he flagged, until the poor and helpless boy fell, and expired with the most excruciating torments, while his father and brothers, who were also prisoners, were compelled to be witnesses of the heart-rending tragedy.

In 1766, two men by the name of Sheetz and Taylor, had taken their wives and children in a wagon, and were on their way to the fort at Woodstock. At the Narrow Passage, three miles south of Woodstock, five Indians attacked them. The two men were killed at the first onset, and the Indians rushed to seize the women and children. The women, instead of swooning at the sight of their bleeding, expiring husbands, seized their axes, and with Amazonian firmness, and strength almost superhuman, defended themselves and children. One of the Indians had succeeded in getting hold of one of Mrs. Sheetz's children, and attempted to drag it out of the wagon; but with the quickness of lightning she caught her child in one hand, and with the other made a blow at the head of the fellow, which caused him to quit his hold to save his life. Several of the Indians received pretty sore wounds in this desperate conflict, and all at last ran off, leaving the two women with their children to pursue their way to the fort.

Gen. PETER MUHLENBURG was a native of Pennsylvania, and by profession a clergyman of the Lutheran order. At the breaking out of the revolution, he was a young man about 30 years of age, and pastor of a Lutheran church at Woodstock. In 1776, he received the commission of colonel, and was requested to raise his regiment among the Germans of the valley. Having in his pulpit inculcated the principles of liberty, he found no difficulty in enlisting a regiment. He entered the pulpit with his sword and cockade, preached his farewell sermon, and the next day marched at the head of his regiment to join the army. His regiment was the 8th Virginia, or, as it was commonly called, the German regiment. This corps behaved with honor throughout the war. They were at Brandywine, Monmouth, and Germantown, and in the southern campaigns. In 1777, Mr. Muhlenburg was promoted to the rank of brigadier-general. After the war he returned to Pennsylvania, and was appointed treasurer of that state, where he ended his days. In person, Gen. Muhlenburg was tall and well-proportioned, and in his address, remarkably courteous. He was a fine disciplinarian, an excellent officer, and esteemed and beloved by both officers and soldiers.

Human bones of extraordinary size-thigh bones three feet in length, and skeletons seven feet in length-have been discovered on Flint run, in this county, on Hawksbill creek, Tuscarora creek, and in Hardy county. (See p. 300.) Capt. Smith's "Generall Historie," vol. I., p. 120, gives an account of a prodigious giant tribe of Indians, the Sasquesahanocks, whom he met with at the head of Chesapeake Bay. This relation has been rejected as incredible, and considered as on a footing with the stories of Baron Munchausen, or Sinbad the Sailor; but these evidences would seem to confirm it.*

SMYTH.

SMYTH was formed in 1831, from Washington and Wythe, and named from Gen. Alexander Smyth, an officer of the late war, and a M. C. from 1817 to 1825, and 1827 to 1830. It is 30 miles long, with a mean width of 22 miles. It has three valleys; the north, south, and middle forks of the Holston running parallel with each. The mountains are lofty, the bottom lands rich and productive. There are three quarries of gypsum, of the best quality, on the N. fork of the Holston, and several other quarries on Cove creek. It is now extensively and advantageously used in agriculture. About 60,000 pounds of maple sugar are annually produced. Pop., whites 5,539, slaves 838, free colored 145; total, 6,522.

Marion, the county-seat, is a recently established village, near the centre of the county; 275 miles sw. of Richmond, 29 NE. of Abingdon, and 26 sw. of Wytheville, on the great turnpike from Baltimore to Nashville, Tenn. It is a small, but neat town, containing 3 mercantile stores, and about 30 dwellings. The Chilhowee Sulphur Springs are on, or near the great turnpike, within 18 miles of Abingdon. The settlement called Saltville, derives its name from the justly celebrated salt-works of Preston and King, which are on the line of this and Washington counties, in a narrow plain between the Rich Valley and the north fork of the Holston. There are two wells here, and the salt manufactured from them is of an excellent quality. About 100 persons are employed at these works. The only fossil salt yet discovered in the Union, is found at this place.

* Southern Literary Messenger, Dec. 1839

« AnteriorContinuar »