Three hours across the sea from Gibraltar, on the African coast, lies Tangier, the representative city of Morocco, which is an empire in common with other parts of Northern Africa and follows the course of history in which Phoenicians, Romans, Goths end Moslems have played their parts. To-day, with England dominating Egypt and the Soudan, France is having the upper hand in Morocco. Germany does not like this arrangement, and there may be a change in the not distant future.

The markets of Tangier form the center of life for the town. They are little more than great bare open places covered with stones and lined with bazaars. Thousands of people, shrouded figures, sell herbs and eggs and everything else that is eatable, from dates to mutton. It is a picturesque sight, with the sun trickling through the palm-leaf mats overhead on the piles of yellow melons, and with throngs of camels busy with their grain, and dancing men and snakecharmers and story-tellers clamoring on every side.

CHAPTER IV

GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA

AND there the Alhambra still recalls
Aladdin's palace of delight:
"Allah il Allah !" through its halls
Whispers the fountain as it falls,
The Darro darts beneath its walls,
The hills with snow are white.

Ah, yes; the hills are white with snow,

And cold with blasts that bite and freeze;

But in the happy vale below

The orange and pomegranate grow,

And wafts of air toss to and fro

The blossoming almond-trees.

-HENRY WADSWORTH LONGFELLOW, in CASTLES IN SPAIN."

HE traveler in the Mediterranean who wishes to

THE

visit Granada in Spain and study at first hand the palace and fortress constructed by the Moors, and immortalized by Washington Irving, may do so from Gibraltar. It is a ride of ten hours, and one may go and return directly, or include Cadiz and Seville in the journey. In either case he stops at Bobadilla for luncheon and traverses the La Vega de Granada in the afternoon, the train crossing viaducts and rushing through tunnels, furnishing views of rivers and mountains which cause constant exclamations of delight and surprise. One who has thought of the country as poverty-stricken, gains here an idea of the possibilities

of Spain as he passes fertile farms and extensive olivegroves. Since it is possible to accomplish so much with the antiquated methods of farming which are everywhere apparent, what would not the substitution of modern farming do for Spain!

An hour or more from the place where the Spaniards expelled the Moors from Southern Europe a long stretch of the Sierra Nevadas, or "the Snow Mountains," is seen. The afternoon glow rests on the mountain-peaks, and the remark is frequently heard, "This view is worth the entire cost of our journey."

As in the Moorish States, the downfall of Granada was caused by internal factions, and finally the Catholic kings used these dissensions to further the great aim of their lives-the expulsion of the last Moor from Spanish soil. They entered Granada on January 2, 1492, the year of the discovery of America. The unheroic end of Boabdil, the last of the Moorish kings, has been enshrined in legend. As he was crossing the Sierra Nevadas he turned on the spot now called "El Ultimo Suspiro del Moro" for a last look at the fair city which he had lost. Tears filled his eyes as he gazed, but his stern and resolute mother, Aisha, taunted him with the words: "Weep not like a woman for what could not defend like a man.

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The taking of Granada by the Christians was the subject of great rejoicing throughout Christendom, and a special Te Deum was sung at St. Paul's, London, by the order of Henry VII.

"There was crying in Granada when the sun was going down;

Some calling on the Trinity, some calling on Mahoun. Here passed away the Koran, therein the Cross was

borne,

And here was heard the Christian bell, and there the Moorish horn."

The city of Granada, which is the capital of the province of that name, as it was of the Moorish kingdom, contains sixty or seventy thousand people and is for the most part level. The one exception is the hill upon which stands the Alhambra. From the summit of this hill one may see for many miles in every direction. Here it was that the army of Ferdinand and Isabella triumphed over the Moslems. In Granada Columbus received the commission which enabled him to start on his voyage of discovery resulting in the finding of the new continent. If the Alhambra were not in Granada, one would wish to visit the city to see the famous Cathedral, in the Royal Chapel of which lie the remains of Ferdinand and Isabella. The Carthusian Convent, built by the monks in the sixteenth century, is also worthy of a visit.

Granada is a city of antiquity, but that part of it through which one drives from the station to the Alhambra is modern. Many of the buildings have been erected within the last one or two decades, and a new hotel, one of the best in Spain, was opened in 1910 with every modern convenience, including lifts