about here is a sandy loam. 14 horses are employed for a single plough.

Tchorlu, 3 hours-(the Turullus of antiquity.) It is paved with black marble. Here are the ruins of Turkish baths, a neat mosque and minaret. The road proceeds over wide and barren plains.

Caristrania, 6 hours, a little off the

road.

Burghaz, 4 hours. Famous for the manufacture of small terra cotta bowls for Turkish pipes, and for salted shrimps, which are caught in the Black Sea. Before reaching Burghaz, the traveller has the first view of the Balkan. The country still shows no mark of cultivation except near the village, but it begins to lose the denuded aspect of the plains of Thrace.

Haselbalem, 6 hours. Half hour off the main road. Hence to the Port of Ineada on the Black Sea, is a journey of 14 hours.

Kirk klisie, 2 hours, (or the Forty Churches). A large, but miserable town, on a sloping ground near the base of the Balkan, famous for the manufacture of a sweetmeat composed of the inspissated juice from boiled grapes, formed into rolls containing walnut-kernels. The trade of the town consists in this conserve, and in wine and corn. The road now penetrates further into the hilly country, which is now well wooded. The inhabitants are a mixed race of Bulgarians and Malo-Russians.

Hercelea, 4 hours. Kannara, 4 hours. The road now lies through a very hilly and woody country.

Fachi, 4 hours. Beymilico, 5 hours. A wretched village, but the houses are clean. The beauty of the women here is remarkable. The road now proceeds over plains covered with underwood

to

Carnabat, 5 hours. The appearance of the town, with its minarets, is neat and pleasing. It contains about

200 houses. The country around is well cultivated. After traversing the champaign of Carnabat we enter a mountainous region, and thence descend into another plain.

Dobralle, 4 hours, rather out of the route. Thence we enter the Boccaze, or narrowest passage of the Balkan. Nothing like Alpine scenery characterises the approach to Mount Hæmus, and the range is nowhere conspicuous for grandeur of scenery or great elevation. This defile is a hilly pass, full of woods of oak. In the midst of the Kamtchi Su a rapid river is crossed. The scenery rather resembles that of Wales, where every mountain is insular: here there is nothing of the towering of cliffs and summits one above another, which diistinguishes the summits of the Alps and Pyrenees, the Caucasus and Lebanon.

Chaligh Kavack, 4 hours. A large scattered village below the defile, lying between two mountains. The scenery now becomes grander, and has more of an Alpine character, and there are several fine views from the opening of a narrow defile of the Balkan as the road descends into a plain.

Dragoela, 4 hours. A Bulgarian village. The increasing appearance of industry begins to strike the traveller. The rich plains are well cultivated, and the mountains covered with vineyards to their summits.

Shumla, 4 hours. One hour before reaching this place the road again crosses the Kamchi Su. The town is considerable, and is well fortified with ramparts and a double fosse. It is so centrally situated in the midst of a rich territory, that it is peculiarly qualified to rank as the principal city at least of this part of the country, and, perhaps, of all Bulgaria. Its commerce consists chiefly in wine. It is not improbable that Shumla may be the ancient Marcianopolis. The modern town is celebrated for the gallant victory gained by Hus

sein Pacha, the destroyer of the Janissaries, over the Russians.

Tatchekeui, 3 hours. A Turkish village.

Lazgarat, 6 hours. Two hours before reaching this town are two immense tumuli, on which trees are growing. Similar sepulchres appear all around Lazgarat; they are, per haps, the monuments of some great battle, either in the expedition of Darius, son of Hystaspes, who, marching against the Scythians, encountered the Getæ before reaching the Ister, or in that of Alexander when he fell in with the Celts and Gauls.

Torlach, 5 hours. A town or village of considerable size; the land around it is highly cultivated.

Pisanitza, 2 hours. A village pleasantly situated on the side of a hill.

Rustschuk, 5 hours, situated upon the S. bank of the Danube, offers a novel and striking appearance, with its white chimneys, mosques, and minarets rising from amidst forests of fruit-trees; beyond it appears the Danube, two miles in width, but its shores are low and mean, and its channel filled with a number of shallows and islets, which, by dividing the current, diminish its grandeur. Rustschûk is fortified with ramparts and a fosse, with draw-bridges. The town has an extensive trade with Vienna in cloth, indigo, corn, and wine. For an account of its siege, the reader is referred to "Valentini."

Giurdzgio, hour. On the opposite side of the river; a place which enjoys a considerable commerce. From this place a carriage-road commences, but the travelling is low, as the country is frequently inundated, and the roads deep in mud.

Tiza, 2 hours, which retains in its name the only vestige of Tiasum. Kapoka, 5 hours.

The whole country from the Danube to Bucharest is little better than

the steppes of Russia, and more likely to remain a desert. As we approach Bucharest we have a view of the snowy mountains of Transylvania.

Bucharest, 4 hours. Almost the only edifice in the town considered as an antiquity is a church built under the auspices of Charles XII. The walls of the peribolus are nearly a quarter of a mile square. This building is used now as a Magdalen for female penitents. The khans for the reception of merchandise are capacious and good, and the shops are large and so well supplied, that a greater variety of commodities would be found here than at Constantinople. The streets of the town are paved with trunks of trees and large logs of timber placed transversely, as on the road from Petersburg to Moscow, forming a kind of raft floating on liquid mud. The gipsy population is most deserving of the stranger's inquiries. Bucharest is the residence of an English consul, and the most dissolute town in the world.

Gayest, 3 hours. Kirchinhof, 3 hours. Round this village the land is better cultivated. The Wallachians have a curious custom of rubbing the eyes and pulling the ears of their horses wherever they halt.

The road continues over the plains, and crosses the river Dumbovitza by a ferry.

Pitesti, 4 hours. A village of 100 houses, apparently wealthy; the land around is well cultivated, and the wine excellent.

Munichest, 3 hours.

Corte D'Argheet, 3 hours. The view of this village, with its church, and of mountains covered with forests, and of more distant summits capped with snow, reminds the traveller of the Tyrol, and at a distance the village resembles Innsbruck. Here are the remains of a Roman temple, constructed of terra cotta tiles. The houses, small and extremely clean, are built of wood. From this place commences the path through the mountains. High snowy summits belonging to the great Carpathian barrier, which separates Wallachia from Transylvania, are now in view.

Salatroick, 5 hours. A small and poor village, but the houses as clean as the cottages of Switzerland. It is situated among the mountains.

The road may now be considered as truly an Alpine pass, except that the mountains are covered to their summits with trees, but the views are not to be compared with those in the Alps. The more distant mountains are loftier and covered with snow.

Perichan, 6 hours.

We now pass through a rugged and mountainous defile. The forests and views in this part of the passage are very grand. Before reaching Kinnin we cross a rapid river.

Kinnin, 7 hours. The last place in the dominions of the prince of Wallachia.

In a favourable season the journey from Salatroick may be accomplished

in a much shorter time than is here stated.

A torrent flowing through a chasm in the mountains, and thence into the Aluta, is the boundary of Wallachia and Transylvania. After crossing this torrent, we climb a steep and difficult ascent, by a most dangerous road, consisting, in parts of it, of a mere shelf of planks, really hanging over a stupendous precipice, beneath which roll the rapid waters of the Aluta. This river is accurately described by Ptolemy, as dividing Dacia towards the north, and flowing impetuously it has, moreover, preserved its ancient name unaltered. The scenery here is of the most striking description; the bold perpendicular rocks; the hanging forests; the appearance of the river, flowing in a deep chasm below the road; and the dangerous nature of the pass itself-all these contribute to heighten its sublimity. It is certainly one of the most remarkable passes in Europe, if not in the whole world.

:

At two hours from Kinnin the traveller may halt for the night at the Lazzaretto, in the director's house. Rothenthurm, 2 hours. The road continues along the mountainous pass, and above the river to the ruins of the "Red Tower." The whole way from this place as far as Deva the mountains consist of Sienite porphyry.

After leaving Boitzu, the country becomes open, and the road winds down the mountains into the fertile territories of Transylvania. Here every thing wears a new and joyous aspect.

Hermanstadt, 4 hours from Rothenthurm, formerly called Cibinnium, also Hermanopolis. It is a large and opulent town, containing, in 1801, 15,000 inhabitants. The principal objects of curiosity are the picturegallery of Baron Brüchenthal, and collections of Transylvanian minerals.