rakes, to guard them from spreading, except towards the great fire, which in time they effectually put out. "The sight was tremendous and sublime. Rolling clouds of black smoke, between which appeared volleys of flame; the crackling of the trees; the terror of the birds, disturbed from their native haunts, by a danger as terrible as it was unknown: all announced a convulsion of na. ture, and made me fancy myself at the mouth of a volcano, disgorging its inward fires. Leaving you to heighten the picture from your own imagination, (for it falls far short of the reality,) I conclude, with the most tender affection, your's,

ARTHUR MIDDLETON.

LETTER IX.

Arthur Middleton to his Brother Edwin.

DEAR EDWIN,

Charlestown.

WE have not passed through many great towns in our journey hither; yet we have found objects that, from their novelty or curiosity, have amused us.

The country about Norfolk is extremely flat, and would be uninteresting, were it not for the width and beautiful windings of Elizabeth Tower; the

little town of Portsmouth, on the opposite shore; the great number of ships, some at anchor, some at the wharfs, some repairing, and others building; which enliven the scene, and render it agreeable.

Dismal Swamp is a vast bog, containing one hundred and fifty thousand acres. In some parts the surface is dry, and firm enough to bear a horse; but in others, a man would sink over head if he attempted to walk on it. If a trench, only a few feet deep, is cut in the driest part, the water gushes in, and fills it up immediately. The water flows from the sides in large streams, into the canal that connects Albemarle Sound with Norfolk; its colour is exactly like brandy, which is attributed to the roots of the juniper trees that grow in the swamp. The whole bog is covered with trees, which grow to an enormous size; between them is a thick wood of cane reeds, long grass, and brushwood. The moist parts nourish juniper and cypress trees; and the dry ones, white and red oaks, and a variety of pines. The trees supply a vast quantity of shingles and staves, which are sent by the canal to Norfolk, where there is a constant demand for these articles. The pines yield plenty ef turpentine, which is obtained by cutting a large gash in the tree, and setting a trough beneath it, to catch the liquor that runs from the wound. The people who live on the borders of the swamp drive all their cattle into it to feed; but they would lose them if they were not careful to train them to come

home

home every evening. When a fresh herd is turned out, the farmer sends with them two or three old milch cows, accustomed to the place, with little bells fastened round their necks. The cows come back regularly to be milked, and their new acquaintance follow the sound of the bells; and at their return are feasted with a handful of salt, which attaches them to their home. It is said, that in the recesses of this swampy forest, there are large herds of cattle, that have strayed and are become wild; besides bears, wolves, deer, and other creatures, that are its native inhabitants; but we did not penetrate far enough to see them.

The taverns along the coast between Norfolk and Charlestown are wretched, and the fare accords with them. We could often get no bread but that made of Indian corn, which is very coarse, strong, and unpleasant to people who are not accustomed to it. It eats best in cakes, because the large loaves are seldom well baked in the middle. So badly were we entertained in some places, that we were glad to satisfy our hunger with a dish of hominy, a mixture of Indian corn and beans, boiled to a solid sort of pudding, with milk. This is often eaten, either hot or cold, with bacon or fresh meat; and some of the negroes almost live upon it.

As we advanced towards the southern part of Virginia, we saw great numbers of large birds, in form and plumage resembling a turkey, called turkey buzzards. They feed on putrid carcases,

which has induced the inhabitants of Carolina to prohibit the destroying them, as they think they are useful in removing bodies in a state of decay, that would increase the unhealthiness of the cli

mate.

After passing the Dismal Swamp, we entered North Carolina. On the side next the sea it is a vast plain, almost covered with forests. It happened, one night, that we were belated, and lost our way in one of these trackless wilds. It was not long before a light, glimmering through the trees, revived our drooping spirits with the expectation that a house was not far off; but what was our surprise and disappointment, on riding up to the spot, to find that it moved from us, then drew nigh, and then swiftly took flight into the woods. Whilst we were considering the cause of this extraordinary appearance, I perceived the same sort of light in a bush close to our side, and in a few minutes. all the trees in the forest sparkled with them. Mr. Franklin presently recollected. that this illumination proceeded from the fire fly, a small insect that swarms in summer in the American woods, dispersing their light in all parts in the night; though they are seldom seen in the day, because they hide themselves in rotten wood. I pocketed a few for examination, and found them of a reddish brown colour. The light comes from under the wings; and when they rise in the air, looks like sparks, appearing and disappearing every moment.

It

It is a great relief, in travelling through these woods, to allay our thirst with wild strawberries, which grow here plentifully. The green fruit on the trees promise also an abundance of wild plums, grapes, and blackberries. Various kinds of medicinal plants and roots are found here, particularly ginsing; snake-root; and lion's heart, which is thought a sovereign remedy for the bite of a serpent. We sometimes exchange the gloomy forest for the open savannah, or pasture ground, mostly covered with cane grass, resembling the stalks of green corn, and affording excellent food for cattle. I am no coward; but the pale, sallow, sickly countenances of the inhabitants, and the numbers we have found indisposed with bilious fevers and agues, makes me dread a fit of illness. Nature generally provides a remedy for every evil. This country would probably be more unhealthy than it is, were it not that the trees in the low country are loaded with vast quantities of a long, spongy kind of moss, which exhales the unwholesome vapours from the stagnant waters.

We have been at Charlestown but a few days, and have taken up our abode at a boarding-house, where we are supplied with lodging and food: but we are seldom at home, as we accept all invitations; our design being to see as much as possible of the people, as well as the country. Having an engagement to dinner, and scarcely time to prepare

for