plains, where herds of the buffalo and the elk graze at full liberty. The eastern side abounds in beavers, bears, moose-deer, fallow-deer, &c. The Red River divides into two branches, that bound a considerable district inhabited chiefly by the Assiniboins. They confine themselves to hunting the buffalo and trapping wolves. The remainder of the former, which they do not want immediately for food or clothing, they pound into pemican, something like potted meat; and melt the fat, and prepare the skins in the hair, for winter. They never eat the wolves; but they make tallow from their fat, and dress their skins, which they exchange with the traders for arms, ammunition, rum, tobacco, knives, and trinkets. There are in this country three principal forts for trade; one on the river Dauphin, one on Reddeer River, and the last on Swan River. The inhabitants are chiefly wandering hunters, of the Knisteneaux and Algonquin tribes. The passage of our canoes was interrupted in the Saskatchiwine river by a rapid, in which the waters tumble over ridges of rocks that cross the river. At the foot of this cascade there is an excellent sturgeon fishery, frequented by vast numbers of pelicans and cormorants, which watch for an opportunity of seizing the fish that may be killed or disabled by the force of the waters. From the Saskatchiwine a succession of small lakes, interrupted by falls and rapids, and varied with rocky islands, extends to the Great Churchill River. The Portage

de

de Traité received its name from Mr. Joseph Frobisher, who penetrated into this part of the country from Canada, as early as the year 1774, where he met the Indians in the spring, on their way to Churchill, according to annual custom, with their canoes full of valuable furs. They traded with him, for as many of them as his canoes would carry; and in consequence of this transaction, its present name was given to the portage. The country is inhabited by several tribes: those who live to the north-west are beaver hunters; the others deal in provisions, wolf, buffalo, and fox skins. The Picaneaux and Stone Indians, in their war parties, wander on the confines of Mexico, where they contrive to possess themselves of horses; some of which they employ to carry loads, and the others are used in the chace of the buffalo. A dreadful monument remains of the mortality occasioned by the small pox, at the Portage des Morts, where there is a promontory covered with human bones. On a certain rock where the Indians were used to make an offering, we observed sketches of figures painted red; and on a small island in the Lake des Pouris, a very large stone in the form of a bear, on which the natives had painted the head and snout of that animal.

The numerous lakes, falls, rapids, islands, and bays, in the course of our navigation, cannot be particularized; I shall therefore only draw your attention to the principal, or such places as are

on

on any account remarkable. There is a fort on a low isthmus, in Isle à la Crosse, which has taken its name from the game of the cross, which is a favourite amusement among the natives. The situation of Lake à la Crosse; the abundance of the finest fish to be found in its waters; the rich ness of its surrounding banks and forests, in moose and fallow deer; with the multitudes of the smaller tribes of animals, whose skins are precious; and the numerous flocks of wild-fowl, that frequent it in the spring and autumn; make it a most desirable spot, either for the residence or occasional resort of the natives.

At Portage la Loche the navigation ceases, and the canoes with their lading are carried over land for thirteen miles. This portage is formed by the ridge that divides the waters which discharge themselves into Hudson's Bay, from those that flow into the northern ocean. The Portage la Loche is covered with the cypress, the pine, and the spruce fir, and is of a level surface till within a mile of its termination; when we descended a very steep precipice, that seemed equally impracticable to climb up or down, as it consists of eight hills, some of which are almost perpendicular: nevertheless, the activity of our Canadians surmounted all these difficulties, even with their canoes and lading. When we reached the top of the precipice, which rises upwards of a thousand feet above the plain, every one was charmed; but

Arthur

Arthur stood enraptured with the extensive, romantic, and ravishing prospect. Mr. Roseberry, Arthur, and myself, indulged ourselves with contemplating the vast expanse. Beneath us flowed. the Swan River, beautifully meandering for thirty miles. The valley, which is at once refreshed and adorned by it, is about three miles in breadth, and is confined by two lofty ridges of equal height, displaying a most delightful intermixture of wood and lawn, and stretching on till the blue mist obscures the prospect. Some parts of the inclining heights are covered with stately forests, relieved by promontories of the finest verdure, where the elk and buffalo find pasture. These are contrasted by spots where fire has destroyed the woods, and left a dreary void behind it. Amidst this sublime display of uncultivated nature, the moving scenery of human occupation completed the prospect..

From this elevated situation we looked down upon our fellow travellers, who appeared like pigmies, employed in pitching their tents in a charming meadow, amidst their canoes; which, being turned upon their sides, presented their reddened bottoms, in contrast with the surrounding verdure.

We were again frequently interrupted in our progress by carrying places; but after surmounting many difficulties, we reached Fort Chepewyan, standing on a point, on the southern side of the Lake of the Hills.

The

The season being now so far advanced as the beginning of October, I have resolved to take up our winter quarters at this Fort, with Mr. Roseberry and others; though some of the people are dispatched up the Peace River, to trade with the Beaver and Rocky Mountain Indians; and others, for the same purpose, to the Slave River and Lake.

Mr. Roseberry, who is very attentive to provide for the wants of those under his command, having no dependence for winter stock, but the produce of the lake and the fishery, has ordered the nets to be prepared. These nets are sixty fathom long a small stone and wooden buoy are fastened to the side line, opposite to each other, at the distance of two fathoms. When the net is carefully thrown into the water, the stone sinks it to the bottom, while the buoy keeps it at its full extent; and it is secured in this position by a stone at either end. The nets are visited every day, and frequently taken out to be cleaned and dried. This is easily performed at present; but it will be a difficult task when the water is frozen five feet, deep, which it generally is in the winter. Then the men are obliged to cut holes in the ice, at the distance of thirty feet from each other, to the full length of the net. By means of these openings, and with the assistance of poles, the nets are placed in, and drawn out of the water. Hooks and lines are also daily employed to provide a winter store. The white-fish are the principal object of pursuit :

they