The banks of the Juncata, which we crossed in a ferry-boat, are high, and adorned with trees and flowering shrubs. The country people gather the green cones of the cucumber tree, and steep them in whisky, which they consider as a remedy for

the ague.

Travelling over a hilly, stony country, we observed several scattered farm-houses, and some small towns, in our way to Shippensburgh. Labour is dear and hands scarce, so that a farmer, instead of considering a numerous family a burthen, finds the assistance of his children a source of wealth.

Shippensburgh is a small place, that trades principally in flour. We lodged at a tavern kept by a colonel; no uncommon case in America, where the distinctions of rank are not yet observed with the same exactness as in Europe.

A mountainous country, with few inhabitants, brought us to Carlisle, a tolerable town, having several stores that deal in mercery, haberdashery, grocery, and liquor. York is a well-built town, chiefly composed of brick-houses, and, like many other places in this part of the country, inhabited by Germans, who still speak their own language. At Columbia we were ferried over the Susquehannah very high hills form the banks of this ri ver, the middle of which is covered with small, woody islands, which appear to divide it into several branches. Some of these, though very small, are as high as the neighbouring hills, and being ir

regular

regular in their form, have a picturesque effect, which is improved by multitudes of wild-fowl that nestle in the isles, and hover about the river.

Early in the evening we reached Lancaster, the largest inland town in North America. The houses, which have two stories, are chiefly of brick or stone, with a broad stone pavement, and pumps placed at small distances before them; there are several well-built churches, and an elegant sessions-house. It is computed to contain from four to five thousand inhabitants, nearly all of German extraction, but of different religions and occupations. Hatters, saddlers, coopers, and gunsmiths,

are the most numerous.

The gunsmiths are celebrated for rifles, the only kind of fire-arms used by the Indians, and the people of the interior. In the town, as well as the neighbourhood, are a great many tan-yards, and mills for grinding corn; the flour is sent to Philadelphia in waggons. Lancaster is surrounded by verdant meadows, watered by a wheel, contrived to raise the water for that purpose. Near it limestones and slates are found, of a large size, and the neighbouring country is full of iron mines.

Having an engagement upon my hands, I cannot enlarge farther, than to assure you that I am Your affectionate brother,

H. FRANKLIN.

LETTER

LETTER XXIV.

Arthur Middleton to his Sister Catherine.

New York.

MY DEAR GIRL,

IT is so long since I have addressed myself to you, that Edwin cannot be jealous of this attention. Whilst we were at Lancaster, we took a ride to Ephrata, to see the establishment of the Dunkers, a religious society well known in America by their solitary mode of life. The men and women live apart, in houses that are without ornament. They wear a long gown, made in winter of grey cloth, and in summer of white linen, tied round the waist with a strap of leather: a long beard renders this dress still more venerable. They live in a plain, frugal manner, and sleep on a bench without a bed. The property of the whole community is shared equally by the members who belong to it. What the principles are that lead to these singularities, I could not learn. From Lancaster to May Town is a woody tract of country. Along the road we saw many German farms, which are known by small houses and large barns. Cows and oxen, with a few sheep, were grazing in the woods, or

near

near the road; and the woods chiefly consist of oak, hiccory, black oak, acacia, chesnut, cherry, and apple trees, a few spindle trees, some cedars and Weymouth pines.

May Town is only a small village. Harrisburgh is another town of no great magnitude. Several ranges of hills, or high ridges, run parallel to each other, in the way from this place to Sunbury, and are in most parts covered with trees. Azalias blossom in almost every wood, and delight both the eye and the smell. We passed many straggling log-houses, and new settlements, where the owner had felled some of the trees, and barked others for several inches in breadth, in order to make them decay.

The mountains over which the road runs from Harrisburgh to Sunbury, are all of granite; and in some places it is very fine and beautiful. At length we perceived the little town of Sunbury, standing on the bank of the Susquehannah, which, wherever we meet it, is a grand object. The opposite shore is bounded by high-mountains, darkened by numerous pines growing on the rocks. Sunbury is the chief town of the country; but Northumberland is larger and more agreeably situated, though it is ill built, and inhabited chiefly by Dutchmen. Hither the celebrated Dr. Priestley retired, and ended his days in tranquillity.

In one of our walks on the borders of the river we were surprised at hearing the melodious sounds

of a piano forte, exquisitely touched, proceed from a small wooden house, built against the side of a high mountain, covered with wood and fragments of rocks. The romantic situation, the unexpected melody, and the apparent poverty of the inhabitants, were such an extraordinary contrast, that we were led to enquire who resided in the hut. It appeared that they were an English family, of refined manners, whom misfortune had driven to seek an asylum in America. Turning our course towards the east, we came to Bethlehem, which is the chief settlement of the Moravians. The town stands on rising ground, nearly encompassed by streams, and is built with great regularity: it consists of about eighty strong stone houses, and a large church.

Towards the centre is a spring, that supplies every house with excellent water: over it is erected a public pantry, (I think I may call it,) with very thick walls, to keep out the heat of the sun, furnished with numerous shelves. In this place, during hot weather, the inhabitants keep their provisions: meat, milk, butter, &c. stand in the neatest order, belonging to different families; where, so honest are the people, that though the door is unfastened, they always find whatever they deposit there, just as they left it.

The Moravians are a most singular people, as you will acknowledge when I have related the particulars of their establishment. From the elders we

received