goat's whey, will set all right, and balance the account between health and sensual indulgence. That some benefit may be derived from the early rising and exercise is more than probable, but that to subjects of such unremitted habits, the resources of Dundrum can prove effectually and permanently beneficial, is altogether an illusion.' After passing through this village, the next place attracting our notice, and truly worthy of it, is

THE SCALP,

a road which appears to have been formed by a convulsion of nature, through the centre of a high hill. At either side of the road for about a quarter of a mile in length, the mountain rises high and steep; the corresponding sides, destitute of verdure, and presenting nothing to the of the astonished and almost terrified passenger,

eye

but huge masses of rock, leaning on each other in angular points, beetling over his head, and, like the avalanche of the Alps, apparently toppling to their fall, to the threatened destruction of all beneath. At one side of this pass, a subterraneous stream of water is heard to murmur among the rocks, until gently issuing forth at the foot of the descent. At either side, among the fissures of the rocks, cropping the scanty herbage, may be seen a few goats and rabbits, and overhead is faintly heard the hawk, + kite, and raven's scream. What adds greatly to the beauty and sublimity of this wild scene, is the view, as you approach it, of the great sugar-loaf hill, a conical

+ no Vites in Ireland

mountain, so called, about four miles further on, but which, thus seen, seems to close up and bar all egress from this savage pass. A new road is forming along one side of this disjointed hill, the substratum formed of the great rocks around, reduced by the process of blasting. By this alteration the steepness of the old road will be avoided, and the draught rendered easy to beasts of burden; but the admirer of the bold, the picturesque, and sublime, will regret the improvement, if the old road shall not be left open, and maintained passable to those who would prefer it. About two English miles further brought us to the village of

ENNISKERRY,

the immediate approach to which is by a gently descending road, winding along the side of a steep hill, and frightfully dangerous in the event of restive and unmanageable horses, as the road on the precipice side is altogether without defence.* At the foot of this hill, in a romantic glen, a stream, swelled by recent rain, worked its turbulent way over a rocky bed, between banks in many places high and precipitous. Passing

over a small bridge of one arch, I beheld, for the first time, an Irish angler. Seeing our rods and landing nets, he approached us, and was immediately recognised by my friend as an old acquaintance.

"Well! Redmond, what sport'- Troth, sir, poor enough, I'm affeard myself has'nt the taking fly, The security of a low wall has been since afforded.-EDITOR.

D

although it's a wren's hackle too-but deuce another have I, nor a lock of colour, nor a hook, nor a scrap of gut to tie it on.' This declaration of his sporting poverty, was, on Redmond's part, preparatory to his laying us under contribution. My companion fully understood him, and he and I made up the village angler for the season. He offered to attend us, if we proposed fishing the neighbouring streams, but we declined his services. My companion described this poor man as having grown old in exercising a sort of mendicant angling in that neighbourhood. He is in great request among the city green horns of the angle; he carries them across the streams on his back, being from habit strong and muscular, and they, like cats, loving fish, but not inclined to wet their feet in pursuit of their game; when, through awkwardness, a line gets entangled in weeds, bushes, or the opposite bank, he extricates it, and when they 'toil all day and catch no fish,' he, being more fortunate or skilful, furnishes their baskets, and enables them to escape the gibes of their friends, should they return home without any evidence of sport. The village of Enniskerry is beautifully and romantically situated on the side of a hill, but inconvenient on account of its steepness. It is poor and mean, which suprised me, considering its natural attractions. A spot so favored of nature, at the like distance from London, (only nine miles,) would exhibit a very different appearance of population, and its habitations would be numerous, and expressing the various taste, but uniform comfort and

neatness of the citizen's occasional retirement from the smoke and bustle of the metropolis.* Communicating with my companion on this head, he observed, that no one would build or improve on so short a lease as twenty-one years. • What! said I, do you consider that a short lease in this country?' 'Very short, and altogether discouraging to prospective "You live then to antediluvian ages.' fast for that; but we like, that when our children should not be driven from the home of

improvements.' 'No, we live too we cease to live,

their youth, to sojourn with strangers. An Irishman would be thought by his neighbours a fool or a madman should he lay out his money on a twenty-one years' lease.' My suprise at this account could not but be increased, when I reflected on the different opinions prevailing in my own country. In England, where longer leases are scarcely known, and tenants at will, numerous and common, the spirit of improvement is not discouraged in consequence; and the tenant, who only holds from year to year, feels a confidence in the protection and liberality of his landlord, well justified by the event. The British proprietor identifies his interests with those of his tenantry; he knows that their industry is the source of his enjoyments, and their wealth the security of his own; he enters cordially, and with paternal feeling, into the consideration of their

*Since Mr. Greendrake's visit, Enniskerry has been much improved by the erection of several beautiful and commodious cottages; and communication with the metropolis rendered easy by the establishment of an excellent public coach.-EDITOR.

wants, and promotes their rational plans of profit and improvement. When the state of the times renders it necessary, he abates their rent, and, in return, they cheerfully submit to any advance, justified by more favorable circumstances. The pay-day brings them together with the kind and manly feelings of mutual and dependent interests, and as the landlord never holds up his lands to rack-rent competition, the tenant goes on, confidently improving, and looks upon his lease of twenty-one years, or his tenure at will, as an inheritance to his children's children, and of which nothing but idleness and extravagance can deprive them. In Ireland, I understand, that the reverse of this picture is so generally striking, and the spirit of exaction so strong, that even the many amiable exceptions that take place, have little power in redeeming the character of the landlord, or counteracting the more prevalent evil.

"Lord Powerscourt's polite attention to the gratification of strangers, procured us ready permission to drive through the demesne, which is eminently beautiful, to the Waterfall, situated in the deer-park, distant about two miles from the mansion. I could not but observe

that the entrance to

POWERSCOURT DEMESNE,

at the head of the village of Enniskerry, but ill corresponded with the noble mansion and avenue leading to it.* There is, I am told, much of this inconsistency in

* This reproach has been recently removed, although, still, the gateway is comparatively mean.-EDITOR.