30 MEMS FOR THE will fail to keep himself warm in cold. In stormy seasons in Scotland or Switzerland, nothing will keep out the rain, and the pleasantest mode is to make up your mind to be wet, and to walk yourself dry again. Carry a small, strong umbrella, which will be often found a serviceable friend, not only to keep off a flying shower, but also as a walking-stick. If you pass a pretty little brunette, overtaken by the rain, it serves as an excellent introduction at once. Fitted nicely to the shoulders should be a knapsack, elegant in form, small in size, and of water-proof quality. The contents of the knapsack should be a pair of trowsers, a shirt, a pair of stockings, two pocket kerchiefs, two cravats, and a case containing needles, thread, a piece of rag, some twine, pins, shaving tackle as light as may be, and a bit of soap. The last article is indispensable, it not being usual to supply it in continental inns. When you have added to these your pocket telescope and drawing apparatus, you will probably have a weight of nine or ten pounds. The dress worn by the pedestrian ought to be a flannel waistcoat-which is a friend in all seasons, to repel the cold and to absorb perspiration-the usual linen apparel, and a pair of tolerably stout shoes, easy and square at the toes. If the trowsers in the knapsack be of woollen cloth, that worn should be a light summer one, and vice-versa. You should wear a frock-coat of good texture, and a hat light as a feather, pliable as a sycophant, and durable as the tongue of a French woman. If you prefer a cap, take it, and leave the hat at home; and of the two the cap is best, and more comfortable in a carriage. The hat is preferable in a town, where you turn out of your inn a paragon of pinks, and wish to kill all the 'cheres dames' in the place. You think I have said enough on this subject, and so do I myself. CHAPTER III. CANTONS OF ZURICH AND ZUG. "Who first beholds those everlasting clouds, As rather to belong to heaven than earth- A sense, a feeling that he loses not, A something that informs him 'tis an hour, Whence he may date henceforward and for ever." As we ascended from Horgen, we had a hundred glimpses of the lake and town of Zurich, and every one was superb. The ascent was steep, and the thermometer at 102 in the sun, so that our umbrellas were converted into parasols. A narrow SPLENDID LANDSCAPE. 33 rugged road led from the border of the lake to the summit of the hill: on each side were trees laden with fruit-apple, pear, and plum--none of which was grateful to the palate. We halted in a delightful orchard at the top, stuck our umbrellas in the turf, and levelled our pocket Dolland-one of his best achromatics-at the rich and varied prospect around us. A new region was opened: we saw into the heart of Switzerland. A sublime range of Alps from Glarus and Appenzel to the Bernois chain of Oberland Glaciers, enclosed a magnificent assemblage of beautiful objects—dark mountains, lovely vallies, and the lake of Zug reposing beneath the towering heights that shadow its lovely waters. Mont Pilatus, with its fantastic peaks, and Mont Righi, were among the most imposing objects of this fine landscape. A scene like the present baffles description, and therefore I measure my own powers, and say no more about it. From this summit we bade adieus to Zurich and her lake, as to dear friends, and rapidly descending a broken and gloomy lane, plunged into one of the ravines issuing from the valley we had seen from the top. At the village of Baar we entered the church, by no means a discreditable building. The priest and choristers were singing masses for the dead, but there was not a soul listening to 34 A LOUNGE AT BAAR. them except ourselves. On the roof were some well-executed paintings in fresco, in one of the groups of which-the Ascension-one of the Apostles was dressed in full court dress, with knee and shoe buckles, flowered waistcoat, &c. &c. In the churchyard were hundreds of crucifixes, one at the head of each grave, adorned by gilding and small paintings of the virgin and saints, and having garlands of white gauze hung on them. It is impossible to witness without emotion these simple and affecting offerings to the memory of departed friends. In one corner of the burial-ground was an open Golgotha, in which were piled skulls and bones in various devices. We entered too a small chapel, in which were an altar, images, and the usual et cetera. Among other things were waxen representations of human limbs; having been placed there by persons, who suffering under some bodily ailments, offer models of the afflicted parts to their favourite saints, firmly believing that it will lead to recovery. The country around Baar is extremely fertile. We strolled along green lanes shaded by fruittrees, through rich orcharding and arable lands, and over luxuriant greenswards, overhung by enormous chesnut and walnut trees. It was three o'clock when we reached the town of Zug, where |