and it has the appearance of a green snake, with the desert on either side, all dull and dreary. Cairo, with its mosques and minarets, seems to lie at your feet; the Delta, so famous for its rich and fertile soil, forming the dead level towards the Mediterranean ; the Pyramids of Sakkara; Memphis, and the Libyan desert are all in sight.

The process, however, of being pulled and pushed up by the Arabs, is, after all, not very pleasant, and something more than a joke. They treat the adventurer under their hands as if he were a bale of goods; and the wonder is, how he can escape without having his arms dislocated. They all know a little English now-a-days, and are fond of singing. "I have a donkey, and he would not go!" was one of the first exclamations that greeted the ear on our arrival in Alexandria; but, at the Pyramids, the refrain was:

66 Englishman-very good man,

Englishman-gentle-man,

Bachsheesh!"

In fact, bachsheesh is their constant cry, ever in their throats and on their lips; and it is not so wonderful, perhaps, when we take into consideration, that it is their only means of earning a livelihood, or rather their sole resource of raising a revenue. when they get the traveller to the top of the pyramid,

And

they practise extortion to the utmost; and induce many to give them all the money which they have about them. One would hardly grudge an extra half crown, on the summit of the great pyramid; but a distinct agreement, previously made through the dragoman, respecting the charge for going up and coming down, will afford sufficient protection; for there is always a Sheikh, or Head of the tribe, on the spot, and he will prevent imposition and see justice maintained.

By whom were the Pyramids built, and for what purpose? These are questions, which do not fall within my present scope; and they have exercised the ingenuity and learning of ancient sages, as well as of modern philosophers and travellers. The following lines by Kirke White, on this subject, are as strikingly apposite, as they are remarkable for their beauty and truth:

"Who lies inhumed in the terrific gloom

Of the gigantic pyramid? Or who

Reared its huge walls?

The prey is mine;-they

Oblivion laughs and says,

sleep, and never more

Their names shall strike upon the ear of man,
Their memory burst its fetters."

On approaching the Pyramids, an object is visible, which (on first sight) might be taken for a large boulder. On asking what it might be, I heard, to

my surprise, that it was the Sphinx. A feeling of disappointment followed for the moment; but this wore away as we drew nearer and became more fully aware of its colossal size. The head and shoulders only are seen, and are, to a certain extent, immersed in sand; and the face is so weather-beaten, that ere long it will be difficult to trace the lineaments. The features, however, are still strongly marked, and are purely Coptic; so strikingly was this the case, that Mr. Murray could not help remarking, that the little boy, who stood near us with a water-jug, might (as far as likeness was concerned) be justly taken for the sculptured monster's grandson. The little fellow understood English, and immediately cried: "Yes, that is my grandmother !"-there certainly was a decided resemblance.

On our return to Cairo, we visited the celebrated Mosque of Mahommed Ali, with its large court and its fountains. The mosque is built of alabaster; and the large court is paved with the same material, inlaid here and there with marble. Near this spot is the Citadel, and likewise the Court where the Mamelukes were massacred. The fearful leap taken by Emir Bey, the sole survivor, is still pointed out;-he escaped, but his gallant charger was killed by the fall.