66 or whole week, have been very abstemious, regular parcel of their fortunes.' I am utterly bewilderea in exercise, and yet very unwell. and confounded. Yesterday, dined tete-a-tete at the Cocoa with "I don't know-but I think I, even I, (an insect Scrope Davies-sate from six till midnight-drank compared with this creature,) have set my life on between us one bottle of champagne and six of claret, casts not a millionth part of this man's. But, alter neither of which wines ever affect me. Offered to all, a crown may be not worth dying for. Yet, to take Scrope home in my carriage; but he was tipsy outlive Lodi for this!!! Oh that Juvenal or Jobuand pious, and I was obliged to leave him on his son could rise from the dead! Expende-quot knees, praying to I know not what purpose or pagod. libras in duce summo invenies?' I knew they were No headache, nor sickness that night nor to-day. light in the balance of mortality; but I thought Got up, if any thing, earlier than usual-sparred their living dust weighed more carats. Alas! this with Jackson ad sudorem, and have been much bet- imperial diamond hath a flaw in it, and is now hardly ter than for many days. Í have heard nothing more fit to stick in a glazier's pencil; the pen of the his from Scrope. Yesterday paid him four thousand torian won't rate it worth a ducat. eight hundred pounds-a debt of some standing, "Psha! something too much of this.' But I and which I wished to have paid before. My mind won't give him up even now; though all his admi is much relieved by the removal of that debit. rers have, like the Thanes, fall'n from him.' "Augusta wants me to make it up with Carlisle. I have refused every body else, but I can't deny her "April 10. any thing; so I must e'en do it, though I had as "I do not know that I am happiest when alone; lief drink up Eisel-eat a crocodile.' Let me see but this I am sure of, that I never am long in the Ward, the Hollands, the Lambs, Rogers, &c., &c., society even of her I love, (God knows too well, and -every body more or less, have been trying for the the Devil probably too,) without a yearning for the last two years to accommodate this couplet quarrel company of my lamp and my utterly-confused and to no purpose. I shall laugh if Augusta succeeds. tumbled-over library. Even in the day, I send away "Redde a little of many things-shall get in all my carriage oftener than I use or abuse it. Per my books to-morrow. Luckily, this room will hold esempio,-I have not stirred out of these rooms for them-with ample room and verge, &c., the charac- these four days past: but I have sparred for exerters of hell to trace.' I must set about some em-cise (windows open) with Jackson an hour daily, to ployment soon; my heart begins to eat itself again. attenuate and keep up the ethereal part of me. The more violent the fatigue, the better my spirits "April 8. for the rest of the day; and then, my evenings "Out of town six days. On my return, find my have that calm nothingness of languor, which I most poor little pagod, Napoleon, pushed off his pedestal; delight in. To-day I have boxed one hour-written the thieves are in Paris. It is his own fault. Like an ode to Napoleon Bonaparte-copied it-eatea Milo he would rend the oak; but it closed again, six biscuits-drank four bottles of soda-water-redde wedged his hands, and now the beasts-lion, bear, away the rest of my time-besides giving poor down to the dirtiest jackal-may all tear him. That a world of advice about this mistress of his, who is Muscovite winter wedged his arms; ever since, he plaguing him into a phthisic and intolerable techhas fought with his feet and teeth. The last may ousness. I am a pretty fellow truly to lecture about still leave their marks; and I guess now (as the the sect.' No matter, my counsels are all thrown Yankees say) that he will yet play them a pass.' away. He is in their rear-between them and their homes. Query-will they ever reach them? "I mark this day! 66 "Saturday, April, 9 1814. "April 19, 1814. And all our yesterdays have lighted foods "There is ice at both poles, north and south-all extremes are the same-misery belongs to the highest and the lowest only,-to the emperor and the beggar, when unsixpenced and unthroned. There Napoleon Bonaparte has abdicated the throne is, to be sure, a damned insipid medium-an equiof the world. Excellent well.' Methinks Sylla noctial line-no ore knows where, except upon did better; for he revenged, and resigned in the maps and measurement. height of his sway, red with the slaughter of his foes the finest instance of glorious contempt of the rascals upon record. Diocletian did well tooAmurath not amiss, had he become aught except a dervise-Charles the Fifth but so, so-but Napoleon, I will keep no further journal of that same hesterea să worst of all. What! wait till they were in his torchlight; and, to prevent me from returning, like capital, and then talk of his readiness to give up a dog, to the vomit of memory, I tear out the rewhat is already gone!! What whining monk art maining leaves of this volume, and write, in per thou-what holy cheat?' 'Sdeath! Dionysius at anha,that the Bourbons are restored!!! *· Hang Corinth was yet a king to this. The Isle of Elba up philosophy.' To be sure, I have long despised to retire to! Well-if it had been Caprea, I should myself and man, but I never spat in the face of g have marvelled less I see men's minds are but a species before- O fool! I shall go mad’” EXTRACTS FROM A IN SWITZERLAND. "September 18, 1816. YESTERDAY, September 17th, I set out with Mr. Robhouse on an excursion of some days to the mountains. "September 17. Isermons, and a set of noisy children. Saw all worth seeing, and then descended to the 'Bosquet de Julie,' &c., &c.; our guide full of Rousseau, whcm he is eternally confounding with St. Preaux, and mixing the man and the book. Went again as far "Rose at five; left Diodati about seven, in one of as Chillon to re-visit the little torrent from the hill the country carriages, (a char-á-banc,) our servants behind it. Sunset reflected in the lake. Have to on horseback. Weather very fine; the lake calm get up at five to-morrow to cross the mountains on and clear; Mont Blanc and the Aiguille of Ar- horseback; carriage to be sent round; lodged at my gentieres both very distinct; the borders of the old cottage-hospitable and comfortable; tired with lake beautiful. Reached Lausanne before sunset; a longish ride on the colt, and the subsequent jolting stopped and slept at Went to bed at nine; of the char-a-banc, and my scramble in the hot sun. slept till five o'clock. "Mem. The corporal who showed the wonders of Chillon was as drunk as Blucher; he was deaf also, Called by my courier; got up. Hobhouse walk- and thinking every one else so, roared out the ed on before. A mile from Lausanne, the road legends of the castle so fearfully. However, we saw overflowed by the lake; got on horseback and things from the gallows to the dungeons,* (the rode till within a mile of Vevay. The colt young, potence and the cachots,) and returned to Clarens but went very well. Overtook Hobhouse, and re- with more freedom than belonged to the fifteenth sumed the carriage, which is an open one. Stopped century. "September 18. at Vevay two hours, (the second time I had visited "September 19. At the it ;) walked to the church; view from the church- "Rose at five. Crossed the mountains to Montyard superb: within it General Ludlow (the regi-bovon on horseback, and on mules, and, by dint of cide s) monument-black marble-long inscription scrambling, on foot also; the whole route beauti-Latin, but simple; he was an exile two-and-thirty ful as a dream, and now to me almost as indistinct. years-one of King Charles's judges. Near him I am so tired:-for, though healthy, I have not the Broughton (who read King Charles's sentence to strength I possessed but a few years ago. At MontCharles Stuart) is buried, with a queer and rather bovon we breakfasted; afterward, on a steep ascent, canting, but still a republican inscription. Ludlow's dismounted; tumbled down; cut a finger open: house shown; it retains still its inscription-'Omne the baggage also got loose and fell down a ravine, solum forti patria.' Walked down to the lake side; till stopped by a large tree; recovered baggage; servants, carriage, saddle-horses-all set off and horse tired and drooping: mounted mule. left us plantes la, by some mistake, and we walked approach of the summit of Dent Jument + dis on after them towards Clarens; Hobhouse ran on mounted again with Hobhouse and all the party before, and overtook them at last. Arrived the Arrived at a lake in the very bosom of the mounsecond time (first time was by water) at Clarens. tains; left our quadrupeds with a shepherd, and Went to Chillon through scenery worthy of I know ascended farther; came to some snow in patches, not whom; went over the Castle of Chillon again. upon which my forehead's perspiration fell like On our return, met an English party in a carriage; rain, making the same dints as in a sieve; the chill a lady in it fast asleep-fast asleep in the most anti- of the wind and the snow turned me giddy, but I narcotic spot in the world-excellent! I remember scrambled on and upwards. Hobhouse went to the at Chamouni, in the very eyes of Mont Blanc, hear- highest pinnacle; I did not, but paused, within a ing another woman, English also, exclaim to her few yards (at an opening of the cliff.) In coming party, Did you ever see any thing more rural?'-down, the guide tumbled three times; I fell a as if it was Highgate, or Hampstead, or Brompton, laughing, and tumbled too-the descent luckily soft, or Hayes-Rural!' quotha? rocks, pines, torrents, though steep and slippery: Hobhouse also fell, but glaciers, clouds, and summits of eternal snow far nobody hurt. The whole of the mountains superb above them-and rural!' A shepherd on a very steep and high cliff playing After a slight and short dinner we visited the upon his pipe; † very different from Arcadia, where Chateau de Clarens ; an English woman has rented I saw the pastors with a long musket instead of a it recently (it was not let when I saw it first;) the crook, and pistols in their girdles. Our Swiss sheproses are gone with their summer; the family out, herd's pipe was sweet, and his tune agreeable. I but the servants desired us to walk over the interior saw a cow strayed; am told that they often break of the mansion. Saw on the table of the saloon their necks on and over the crags. Descended to Blair's Sermons, and somebody else (I forget who's) • See Chide Harold, canto úi., stanza xcix., &c. 22d note to Childe Turold, cauto i. • Prisoner of Chillon, note 3d, &c. ↑ Daut de Jaman. Manfred, Act I., Scene LI. Montbovon; pretty, scraggy village, with a wild but the banks fine. Rocks down to the waters river and a wooden bridge. Hobhouse went to fish edge. Landed at Newhause; passed Interlachen; -caught one. Our carriage not come; our horses entered upon a range of scenes beyond all descrip mules, &c., knocked up; ourselves fatigued. tion, or previous conception. Passed a rock; in "The view from the highest points of to-day's scription-two brothers-one murdered the other journey comprised on one side the greatest part of just the place for it. After a variety of winding Lake Leman: on the other, the valleys and moun- came to an enormous rock. Arrived at the foot of tain of the canton of Fribourg, and an immense the mountain, (the Jungfrau, that is, the Maiden; plain, with the lakes of Neufchatel and Morat, and glaciers; torrents; one of these torrents mine kuto all which the borders of the Lake of Geneva in- dred feet in height of visible descent. Lodged at herit; we had both sides of the Jura before us in the curate's. Set out to see the valley; heard at one point of view, with Alps in plenty. In passing avalanche fall, like thunder; glaciers enormions, a ravine the guide recommended strenuously a storm came on, thunder, lightning, hail; all in pers quickening of pace, as the stones fall with great fection, and beautiful. I was on horseback; guide rapidity and occasional damage; the advice is ex-wanted to carry my cane; I was gulag to give it cellent, but, like most good advice, impracticable, him, when I recollected that it was a sword-stick, the road being so rough that neither mules, nor and I thought the lightning might be attracted mankind, nor horses, can make any violent pro- towards him; kept it myself: a good deal enrun gress. Passed without fractures or menace thereof. bered with it, as it was too heavy for a whip, and "The music of the cow's bells (for their wealth, the horse was stupid, and stood with every other like the patriarch's, is cattle) in the pastures, which peal. Got in, not very wet, the cloak being star h reach to a height far above any mountains in Britain, Hobhouse wet through; Hobhouse took refuge n and the shepherds shouting to us from crag to crag, cottage; sent man, umbrella, and cloak (from the and playing on their reeds where the steeps appeared curate's when I arrived) after him. Swiss curate's almost inaccessible, with the surrounding scenery, house very good indeed-much better than most realized all that I have ever heard or imagined of a English vicarages. It is immediately opposite the pastoral existence:-much more so than Greece or torrent I spoke of. The torrent is in shape curring Asia Minor; for there we are a little too much of over the rock, like the tail of a white horse streziDthe sabre and musket order, and if there is a crook ing in the wind, such as it might be conceived in one one hand, you are sure to see a gun in the would be that of the pale horse' on which Death other-but this was pure and unmixed-solitary, is mounted in the Apocalypse. It is neither mist savage, and patriarchal. As we went, they played nor water, but a something between both; its in the Rans des Vaches' and other airs, by way of mense height (nine hundred feet) gives it a wave of farewell. I have lately repeopled my mind with curve, a spreading here, or condensation there, win derful and indescribable. I think, upon the who, that this day has been better than any of this pres ent excursion. nature. "September 20. September 28. Up at six; off at eight. The whole of this day's journey at an average of between from two thousand seven hundred to three thousand feet above the level of the sea. This valley, the longest, narrowest, and "Before ascending the mountain, went to the considered the finest of the Alps, little traversed by torrent (seven in the morning) again; the sun upe travellers. Saw the bridge of La Roche. The bed it, forming a rainbow of the lower part of all of the river very low and deep, between immense colors, but principally purple and gold; the tw rocks, and rapid as anger;-a man and mule said to moving as you move; I never saw any thing like have tumbled over without damage. The people this; it is only in the sunshine. Ascended the looked free, and happy, and rich (which last implies Wengen mountain; at noon reached a valley on neither of the former); the cows superb; a bull the summit; left the horses, took off my coat, and nearly leaped into the char-à-banc-' agreeable com- went to the summit, seven thousand feet (English panion in a post-chaise; goats and sheep very feet) above the level of the sea, and about sve thriving. A mountain, with enormous glaciers, to thousand above the valley we left in the morning. the right-the Klitzgerberg; farther on, the Hock-On one side, our view comprised the Jungfran, with thorn-nice names-so soft!-Stockhorn, I believe, all her glaciers; then the Dent d'Argent, shining very lofty and scraggy, patched with snow only; no like truth; then the Little Giant, (the Kleine glaciers on it, but some good epaulettes of clouds. Eigher;) and the Great Giant, (the Grosse Eigher.) "Passed the boundaries, out of Vaud and into and last, not least, the Wetterhorn. The height f Berne canton; French exchanged for bad German; the Jungfrau is thirteen thousand feet above the the district famous for cheese, liberty, property, and sea, eleven thousand above the valley; she is the no taxes. Hobhouse went to fish-caught none. highest of this range. Heard the avalanches fallStrolled to the river; saw boy and kid; kid followed ing every five minutes, nearly. From whence we him like a dog; kid could not get over a fence, and stood, on the Wengen Alp, we had all these in bleated piteously; tried myself, to help kid, but view on one side; on the other, the clouds rese nearly overset both self and kid into the river. from the opposite valley, curling up perpendicular Arrived here about six in the evening. Nine precipices like the foam of the ocean of hell, during 'clock-going to bed; not tired to-day, but hope a spring tide-it was white and sulphury, and to sleep, nevertheless. immeasurably deep in appearance. The side ** ascended was (of course) not of so precipitous a "Off early. The valley of Simmenthal as before. nature; but on arriving at the summit, we looked Entrance to the plain of Thoun very narrow; high cloud, dashing against the crags on which we down upon the other side upon a boiling sea of rocks, wooded to the top; river; new mountains, stood, (these crags on one side quite perpendicu with fine glaciers. Lake of Thoun; extensive plain "September 21. with a girdle of Alps. Walked down to the Cha-lar.) Stayed a quarter of an hour; began to d teau de Schadau; view along the lake; crossed the scend; quite clear from cloud on that side of the river in a boat rowed by women. Thoun a very mountain. In passing the masses of snow, I made pretty town. The whole day's journey Alpine and a snowball and pelted Hobhouse with it. proud. "September 22. "Left Thoun in a boat, which carried us the length of the lake in three hours. The lake small; • Manfred, Act 1., Scene II. "Got down to our horses again; eat something remounted; heard the avalanches still; came to a morass; Hobhouse dismounted to get over well: • Manfred, Act 11., Scone II. I tried to pass my horse over; the horse sunk up a speech in German, of which I know nothing; 1 to the chin, and of course he and I were in the do not know whether the speech was pretty, but as mud together; bemired, but not hurt; laughed, the woman was, I hope so. Reembarked on the and rode on. Arrived at the Grindelwald; dined, lake of Thoun; fell asleep part of the way; sent mounted again, and rode to the higher glacier- our horses round; found people on the shore, like a frozen hurricane. Starlight, beautiful, but blowing up a rock with gunpowder; they blew it a devil of a path! Never mind, got safe in; a little up near our boat, only telling us a minute before;lightning, but the whole of the day as fine in point mere stupidity, but they might have broken our of weather as the day on which Paradise was made. noddles. Got to Thoun in the evening; the weaPassed whole woods of withered pines, all withered;† ther has been tolerable the whole day. But as the trunks stripped and lifeless, branches lifeless; done wild part of our tour is finished, it don't matter to by a single winter. us; in all the desirable part, we have been the most "September 24. lucky in warmth and clearness of atmosphere. "September 26. "Set off at seven; up at five. Passed the black glacier, the mountain Wetterhorn on the right; crossed the Scheideck mountain; came to the Rose "Being out of the mountains, my journal_must glacier, said to be the largest and finest in Switzer- be as flat as my journey. From Thoun to Berne, land. I think the Bossons glacier at Chamouni as good road, hedges, villages, industry, property, and fine; Hobhouse does not. Came to the Reichen- all sorts of tokens of insipid civilization. From bach waterfall, two hundred feet high; halted to Berne to Fribourg; different canton; Catholics; rest the horses. Arrived in the valley of Oberland; passed a field of battle; Swiss beat the French in rain came on; drenched a little; only four hours' one of the late wars against the French republic. rain, however, in eight days. Came to the lake of Bought a dog. The greater part of this tour has Brientz, then to the town of Brientz; changed. been on horseback, on foot, and on mule. In the evening, four Swiss peasant girls of Oberhasli came and sang the airs of their country; two of the voices beautiful-the tunes also; so wild and original, and at the same time of great sweetness. The singing is over; but below stairs I hear the notes of a fiddle, which bode no good to my night's rest; I shall go down and see the dancing. "September 28. "Saw the tree planted in honor of the battle of Morat; three hundred and forty years old; a good deal decayed. Left Fribourg, but first saw the cathedral; high tower. Overtook the baggage of the nuns of La Trappe, who are removing to Normandy, afterward a coach, with a quantity of nuns "September 25. in it. Proceeded along the banks of the lake of "The whole town of Brier tz were apparently Neufchâtel; very pleasing and soft, but not so gathered together in the rooms below; pretty mountainous-at least, the Jura, not appearing music and excellent waltzing: the dancing much so, after the Bernese Alps. Reached Yverdun in better than in England; the English can't waltz, the dusk; a long line of large trees on the border never could, never will. One man, with his pipe of the lake; fine and sombre; the Auberge nearly in his mouth, but danced as well as the others; full-a German Princess and suite; got rooms. some other dances in pairs and in fours, and very good. I went to bed, but the revelry continued below late and early. Brientz but a village. Rose early. Embarked on the lake of Brientz; rowed but not mountainous. In the evening reached Au"Passed through a fine and flourishing country, by the women in a long boat; presently we put to bonne, (the entrance and bridge something like that shore, and another woman jumped in. It seems it of Durham,) which commands by far the fairest is the custom here for the boats to be manned by view of the Lake of Geneva; twilight; the moon women; four or five men and three women in our on the lake; a grove on the height, and of very bark, all the women took an oar, and but one man. "Got to Interlachen in three hours; pretty lake; noble trees. Here Tavernier (the eastern traveller) not so large as that of Thoun. Dined at Inter-bought (or built) the chateau, because the site relacken. Girl gave me some flowers and made me of Persia; here he finished his voyages, and I this sembled and equalled that of Erivan, a frontier city • Manfrel, Act II., Scene III. Manfred, Act I., Scene II. 1 Childe Harold, Canto III.—Song after stanan v. "September 29. little excursion,-for I am within a few hours of Diodati and have little more to see, and no more tc say." EXTRACTS FROM A JOURNAL IN ITALY. "Ravenna, January 4, 1821. was-I picked up the commandant, mortally wound "A 3UDDEN thought strikes me.' Let me begin a ed, out of the street; he died in my house; assis Journal once more. The last I kept was in Swit- sins unknown, but presumed political. His brethren zerland, in record of a tour made in the Bernese wrote from Rome last night to thank me for having Alps, which I made to send to my sister in 1816, assisted him in his last moments. Poor fellow! i and I suppose that she has it still, for she wrote to was a pity; he was a good soldier, but imprudent.me that she was pleased with it. Another, and It was eight in the evening when they killed him. longer, I kept in 1813-1814, which I gave to Thomas We heard the shot; my servants and I ran out, and Moore in the same year. found him expiring, with five wounds, two whereof "This morning I gat me up late, as usual-mortal-by slugs they seemed. I examined him, weather bad-bad as England-worse. The snow but did not go to the dissection next morning. of last week melting to the sirocco of to-day, so "Carriage at eight or so-went to visit La Contessa that there were two d-d things at once. Could not G.-found her playing on the pianoforte-talked even get to ride on horseback in the forest. Stayed till ten, when the Count, her father, and the no less at home all the morning-looked at the fire-won- Count, her brother, came in from the theatre.dered when the post would come. Post came at Play, they said, Alfieri's Filippo-well received. the Ave Maria, instead of half-past one o'clock, as "Two days ago the King of Naples passed it ought. Galignani's Messengers, six in number-through Bologna on his way to congress. My sera letter from Faenza, but none from England.-vant Luigi brought the news. I had sent him to Very sulky in consequence, (for there ought to have Bologna for a lamp. How will it end? Time will been letters,) and ate in consequence a copious din- show. ner; for when I am vexed, it makes me swallow quicker-but drank very little. "Came home at eleven, or rather before. If the road and weather are comformable, mean to ride to"I was out of spirits-read the papers-thought morrow. High time-almost a week at this workwhat fame was, on reading, in a case of murder, that snow, sirocco, one day-frost and snow the other'Mr. Wych, grocer, at Tunbridge, sold some bacon, sad climate for Italy. But the two seasons, last and flour, cheese, and, it is believed, some plums, to present, are extraordinary. Read a Life of Leonardo some gipsy woman accused. He had on his counter da Vinci, by Rossi-ruminated-wrote this mach, (I quote faithfully) a book, the Life of Pamela, and will go to bed. which he was tearing for waste paper, &c., &c. In "January 3, 1821. the cheese was found, &c., and a leaf of Pamela "Rose late-dull and drooping-the weather dripwrapped round the bacon!' What would Richardson, ping and dense. Snow on the ground, and sirocca the vainest and luckiest of living authors (i. e. while above in the sky, like yesterday. Roads up to the alive)-he who, with Aaron Hill, used to prophecy horse's belly, so that riding (at least for pleasure) is and chuckle over the presumed fall of Fielding (the not very feasible. Added a postscript to my letter prose Homer of human nature) and of Pope (the to Murray. Read the conclusion, for the fiftieth most beautiful of poets)-what would he have said time (I have read all W. Scott's novels at least fifty could he have traced his pages from their place on times) of the third series of Tales of my Landthe French prince's toilets (see Boswell's Johnson) lord,'-grand work-Scotch Fielding, as well to the grocer's counter and the gipsy-murderess's great English poet-wonderful man! I long to get drunk with him. bacon!!! What would he have said? what can any body "Dined versus six o' the clock. Forgot that say, save what Solomon said long before us? After there was a plum-pudding, (I have added, lately, all, it is but passing from one counter to another, eating to my family of vices,) and had dined before from the bookseller's to the other tradesman's-I knew it. Drank half a bottle of some sorts of grocer or pastry-cook. For my part, I have met spirits-of wine; for what they call brandy. 17 with most poetry upon trunks; so that I am apt &c &c., here is nothing but spirits of wine, colored to consider the trunk-maker as the sexton of author- accordingly. Did not eat two apples, which Fere ship. placed, by way of dessert. Fed the two cats, the Wrote five letters in about half an hour, short hawk, and tame (but not tamed) crow. Read Mitand savage, to all my rascally correspondents. Car- ford's History of Greece-Xenophon's Retreat of riage came. Heard the news of three murders at the Ten Thousand. Up to this present mome Faenza and Forli-a carabinier, a smuggler, and an writing, six minutes before eight o' the clockattorney-all last night. The first two in a quarrel, French hours, not Italian. the latter by premeditation.* "Three weeks ago-almost a month-the 7th it • See Letter cccclxv.. &c. Hear the carriage-order pistols and great cont as usual-necessary articles. Weather cold-car riage open, and inhabitants somewhat savage-rather treacherous and highly inflamed hv polities. Fine 1 |