he prefers the English interest, and abhors the] "I could tell you I know not how many incidents French, as he himself told me. He is of so much that I think would amuse you, but they crowd on consequence, that he is much courted by both; the my mind as much as they would swell my paper Albanians being the most warlike subjects of the and I can neither arrange them in the one, nor put Sultan, though Ali is only nominally dependent on them down on the other, except in the greatest the Porte. He has been a mighty warrior; but is confusion. I like the Albanians much; they are as barbarous as he is successful, roasting rebels, not all Turks; some tribes are Christians. But &c., &c. Bonaparte sent him a snuff-box, with his their religion makes little difference in their man. picture; he said the snuff-box was very well, but ner or conduct. They are esteemed the best troop the picture he could excuse, as he neither liked it in the Turkish service. I lived on my route two nor the original. His ideas of judging of a man's days at once, and three days again, in a barrack at birth from ears, hands, &c., were curious enough. Salora, and never found soldiers so tolerable, though To me, he was, indeed, a father, giving me letters, I have been in the garrisons of Gibraltar and Malta, guards, and every possible accommodation. Our and seen Spanish, French, Sicilian, and British next conversations were of war aud travelling, pol- troops in abundance. I have had nothing stolen, itics and England. He called my Albanian soldier, and was always welcome to their provision and who attends me, and told him to protect me at all milk. Not a week ago an Albanion chief, (every hazard. His name is Viscillie, and like all the village has its chief, who is called Primate, after Albanians, he is brave, rigidly honest, and faithful; helping us out of the Turkish galley in her distress, but they are cruel, though not treacherous; and feeding us, and lodging my suite, consisting of nave several vices, but no meannesses. They are, Fletcher, a Greek, two Athenians, a Greek priest, perhaps, the most beautiful race, in point of counte- and my companion, Mr. Hobhouse, refused any hance, in the world; their women are sometimes compensation but a written paper stating that 1 handsome also, but they are treated like slaves, was well received; and when pressed him to beaten, and, in short, complete beasts of burden; accept a few sequins, 'No,' he replied; I wish von they plough, dig, and sow. I found them carrying to love me, not to pay me.' These are his words wood, and actually repairing the highways. The "It is astonishing how far money goes in this men are all soldiers, and war and the chase their country. While I was in the capital. I had nothing sole occupation. The women are the laborers, to pay, by the vizier's order; but since, though which, after all, is no great hardship in so delightful have generally had sixteen horses, and generally a climate. Yesterday, the 11th of November, I six or seven men, the expense has not been half as bathed in the sea; to-day it is so hot that I am much as staying only three weeks in Malta, though writing in a shady room of the English consul's, Sir A. Ball, the governor, gave me a house for with three doors wide open, no fire, or even fire-place nothing, and I had only one servant. By-the-by, I in the house; except for culinary purposes. expect Hanson to remit regularly; for I am bot "To-day I saw the remains of the town of Acti- about to stay in this province for ever. Let him um, near which Antony lost the world, in a small write to me at Mr. Strane's, Euglish consul, Patras. bay, where two frigates could hardly manoeuvre: a The fact is, the fertility of the plains is wonderful, broken wall is the sole remnant. On another part and specie is scarce, which makes this remarkable of the gulf stands the ruins of Nicopolis, built by cheapness. I am going to Athens to study modern Augustus in honor of his victory. Last night I was Greek, which differs much from the ancient, though at a Greek marriage; but this and a thousand things radically similar. I have no desire to return to more I have neither time nor space to describe. England, nor shall I, unless compelled by absolute "I am going to-morrow, with a guard of fifty want, and Hanson's neglect; but I shall not enter men, to Patras in the Morea, and thence to Athens, into Asia for a year or two, as I have much to see where I shall winter. Two days ago I was nearly in Greece, and I may perhaps cross into Africa, at lost in a Turkish ship of war, owing to the igno- least the Egyptian part. Fletcher, like all Englishrance of the captain and crew, though the storm men, is very much dissatisfied, though a little was not violent. Fletcher yelled after his wife, the reconciled to the Turks by a present of eighty Greeks called on all the saints, the Mussulmans on piastres from the vizier, which, if you consider Alla; the captain burst into tears and ran below every thing, and the value of specie here, is nearly deck, telling us to call on God; the sails were split, ten guineas English. He has suffered nothing but the mainyard shivered, the wind blowing fresh, the from cold, heat, and vermin, which those who lie in night setting in, and all our chance was to make cottages and cross mountains in a cold country Corfu, which is in possession of the French, or (as must undergo, and of which I have equally partaken Fletcher pathetically termed it) a watery grave.' with himself; but he is not valiant, and is afraid of I did what I could to console Fletcher, but finding robbers and tempests. I have no one to be remem him incorrigible, wrapped myself up in my Albanian bered to in England, and wish to hear nothing from capote, (an immense cloak,) and lay down on deck it, but that you are well, and a letter or two ou to wait the worst. I have learned to philosophize business from Hanson, whom you may tell to write. in my travels, and if I had not, complaint was use- I will write when I can, and beg you to believe me, less. Luckily the wind abated, and only drove us "Your affectionate son, on the coast of Suli, on the main land, where we "BYRON. landed, and proceeded, by the help of the natives, "P. S. I have some very magnifique' Albanian to Prevesa again; but I shall not trust Turkish dresses, the only expensive article in this country. sailors in future, though the Pacha had ordered one They cost fifty guineas each, and have so much of his own galliots to take me to Patras. I am there- gold they would cost in England two hundred. I fore going as far as Misselonghi by land, and there have been introduced to Hussim Bey and Mahmout have only to cross a small gulf to get to Patras. Pacha, both little boys, grand-children of Ali, at "Fletcher's next epistle will be full of marvels: Yanina. They are totally unlike our lads, have we were one night lost for nine hours in the moun- painted complexions like rouged dowagers, large tains in a thunder-storm, and since nearly wrecked. black eyes, and features perfectly regular. They In both cases, Fletcher was sorely bewildered, from are the prettiest little animals I ever saw, and are apprehensions of famine and banditti in the first, broken into the court ceremonies already. The and drowning in the second, instance. His eyes Turkish salute is a slight inclination of the head, were a little hurt by the lightning, or crying, (I with the hand on the breast. Intimates always don't know which,) but are now recovered. When kiss. Mahmout is ten years old, and hopes to see me you write, address to me at Mr. Stranes, English again. We are friends without understanding each consul, Patras, Morea. ⚫ See Childe Harold, canto ü., stanza xlv. other, like many other folks, though from a different cause. He has given me a letter to his father in the Morea, to whom I have also letters from Ali Pacha." "DEAR MADAM, "I cannot write you a long letter, but as I know you will not be sorry to receive any intelligence of "I write at anchor, (in our way to Constantinomy movements, pray accept what I can give. I ple,) off the Troad, which I traversed two days ago. have traversed the greatest part of Greece, besides All the remains of Troy are the tombs of her Epirus, &c., &c., resided ten weeks at Athens, and destroyers, among which I see that of Antilochus am now on the Asiatic side on my way to Constan- from my cabin window. These are large mounds tinople. I have just returned from viewing the of earth, like the barrows of the Danes in your ruins of Ephesus, a day's journey from Smyrna. I island. There are several monuments, about twelve presume you have received a long letter I wrote from miles distant, of the Alexandrian Troas, which I Albania, with an account of my reception by the also examined; but by no means to be compare Pacha of the province. with the remnants of Athens and Ephesus. This "When I arrive at Constantinople, I shall deter-will be sent in a ship of war bound with despatches mine whether to proceed into Persia or return, for Malta. In a few days we shall be at Constantiwhich latter I do not wish, if I can avoid it. But I nople, barring accidents. I have also written from have no intelligence from Mr. Hanson, and but one Smyrna, and shall, from time to time, transmit letter from yourself. I shall stand in need of remit- short accounts of my movements, but I feel totally tances, whether I proceed or return. I have written unequal to long letters. to him repeatedly, that he may not plead ignorance of my situation for neglect. I can give you no acCount of any thing, for I have not time or opportu 46 Believe me, yours very sincerely, "BYRON. "P. S. No accounts from Hanson! Do not ity, the frigate sailing immediately. Indeed, the complain of short letters,-I write to nobody but farther I go the more my laziness increases, and my yourself and Mr. Hanson." aversion to letter-writing becomes more confirmed. I have written to no one but yourself and Mr. Hanson, and these are communications of business and duty rather than of inclination. LETTER LIV. TO THE HON. MRS. BYRON. "DEAR MADAM, "Constantinople, May 18, 1810 "Fletcher is very much disgusted with his fatigues, though he has undergone nothing that I have not shared. He is a poor creature; indeed English servants are detestable travellers. I have, besides him, two Albanian soldiers and a Greek interpreter ;| all excellent in their way. Greece, particularly in the vicinity of Athens, is delightful; cloudless skies and lovely landscapes. But I must reserve all "I arrived here in an English frigate from account of my adventures till we meet. I keep no Smyrna, a few days ago, without any events worth journal, but my friend Hobhouse writes incessantly. mentioning, except landing to view the plains of Pray take care of Murray and Robert, and tell the boy it is the most fortunate thing for him that he did not accompany me to Turkey. Consider this as merely a notice of my safety, and believe me, "Yours, &c., &c., "BYRON." Troy, and afterwards, when we were at anchor in the Dardanelles, swimming from Sestos to Abydos, in imitation of Monsieur Leander, whose story you no doubt know too well for me to add any thing on that subject, except that I crossed the Hellespont without so good a motive for the undertaking. As I am just going to visit the Capitan Pacha, you will excuse the brevity of my letter. When Mr. Adair takes leave, I am to see the Sultan and the mosques, &c. "Believe me, yours ever, "BYRON " LETTER LV. TO MR. HENRY DRURY "Salsette Frigate, May 2, 1810. I have "To-morrow, or this evening, I sail for Constantinople in the Salsette frigate, of thirty-six guns. She returns to England with our ambassador, whom she is going up on purpose to receive. I have written to you short letters from Athens, Smyrna, and a long one from Albania. I have not yet "MY DEAR DRURY, mustered courage for a second large epistle, and "When I left England, nearly a year ago, you you must not be angry, since I take all opportuni- requested me to write to you-I will do so. ties of apprizing you of my safety: but even that crossed Portugal, traversed the south of Spain, visis an effort, writing is so irksome. I have been ited Sardinia, Sicily, Malta, and thence passed into traversing Greece, and Epirus, Illyria, &c., &c., Turkey, where I am still wandering. I first landed and you see by my date, have got into Asia. I in Albania, the ancient Epirus, where we penetrated have made but one excursion lately, to the ruins of as far as Mount Tomarit-excellently treated by the Ephesus. Malta is the rendezvous of my letters, chief, Ali Pacha; and, after journeying through so address to that island. Mr. Hanson has not Illyria, Chaonia, &c., crossed the gulf of Actium, written, though I wished to hear of the Norfolk with a guard of fifty Albanians, and passed the sale, the Lancashire lawsuit, &c., &c. I am Achelous in our route through Acarnania and anxiously expecting fresh remittances. I believe Etolia. We stopped a short time in the Morea. Fou will like Nottinghamshire, at least, my share crossed the gulf of Lepanto, and landed at the foot of it. Pray accept my good wishes in lieu of a long of Parnassus; saw all that Delphi retains, and sc letter, and believe me, on to Thebes and Athens, at which last we remained ten weeks. "Yours sincerely and affectionately, "BYRON." Smyrna; but not before we had topographized At-with great eclat. We have been occasionally tica, including, of course, Marathon and the Sunian danger of thieves, and once of shipwreck,-but al promontory. From Smyrna to the Troad (which we ways escaped. visited when at anchor, for a fortnight, off the At Malta I fell in love with a married woman,• tomb of Antilochus) was our next stage; and now and challenged an aid-de-camp of General ⚫ we are in the Dardanelles, waiting for a wind to pro- rude fellow, who grinned at something,-I never ceed to Constantinople. rightly knew what)-but he explained and apolo"This morning I swam from Sestos to Abydos.gized, and the lady embarked for Cadiz, and so I The immediate distance is not above a mile, but the escaped murder and crim. con. Of Spain I sent current renders it hazardous;-so much so that I some account to our Hodgson, but have subsedoubt whether Leander's conjugal affection must quently written to no one, save notes to relations not have been a little chilled in his passage to Para- and lawyers, to keep them out of my premises. I dise. I attempted it a week ago, and failed,-owing mean to give up all connexion, on my return, with to the north wind, and the wonderful rapidity of the many of my best friends-as I supposed them-and tide, though I have been from my childhood a to snarl all my life. But I hope to have one good strong swimmer. But, this morning being calmer, humored laugh with you, and to embrace Dwyer, and I succeeded, and crossed the 'broad Hellespont' in pledge Hodgson, before I commence cynicism. an hour and ten minutes. "Tell Doctor Butler I am now writing with the "Well, my dear sir, I have left my home, and gold pen he gave me before I left England, which seen part of Africa and Asia, and a tolerable por- is the reason my scrawl is more unintelligible than tion of Europe. I have been with generals and usual. I have been at Athens and seen plenty of admirals, princes and pachas, governors and these reeds for scribbling, some of which he refused ungovernables,-but I have not time or paper to to bestow upon me, because topographic Gell had expatiate. I wish to let you know that I live with brought them from Attica. But I will not describe, a friendly remembrance of you, and a hope to meet -no-you must be satisfied with simple detail till you again; and, if I do this as shortly as possible, my return; and then we will unfold the floodgates attribute it to any thing but forgetfulness. of colloquy. I am in a thirty-six gun frigate, going "Greece, ancient and modern, you know too well up to fetch Bob Adair from Constantinople, who to require description. Albania, indeed, I have will have the honor to carry this letter. seen more of than any Englishman, (except a Mr. "And so H.'s boke is out,t with some sentimeu Leake,) for it is a country rarely visited, from the tal sing-song of my own to fill up,-and how does savage character of the natives, though abounding it take, eh? and where the devil is the second ediin more natural beauties than the classical regions tion of my Satire, with additions? and my name on of Greece, which, however, are still eminently the title-page? and more lines tagged to the end beautiful, particularly Delphi and Cape Colonna in with a new exordium and what not, hot from my Attica. Yet these are nothing to parts of Illyria anvil before I cleared the Channel? The Mediter and Epirus, where places without a name, and ranean and the Atlantic roll between me and critirivers not laid down in maps, may, one day, when cism; and the thunders of the Hyperborean Re more known, be justly esteemed superior subjects, view are deafened by the roar of the Hellespont for the pencil and the pen, to the dry ditch of the "Rememember me to Claridge, if not translated Ilissus and the bogs of Boeotia. to college, and present to Ilodgson assurances of "The Troad is a fine field for conjecture and my high consideration. Now, you will ask, what snipe-shooting, and a good sportsman and an inge- shall I do next? and I answer, I do not know. I nious scholar may exercise their feet and faculties may return in a few months, but I have intents to great advantage upon the spot; or, if they pre- and projects after visiting Constantinople. Hob fer riding, lose their way (as I did) in a cursed house, however, will probably be back in September. quagmire of the Scamander, who wriggles about as "On the 2d of July we have left Albion one year if the Dardan virgins still offered their wonted trib-'oblitus meorum obliviscendus et illis.' I was sick of ute. The only vestige of Troy, or her destroyers, my own country, and not much prepossessed in favor are the barrows supposed to contain the carcasses of any other; but I drag on my chain' without of Achilles, Antilochus, Ajax, &c.-but Mount Ida lengthening it at each remove.'-I am like the is still in high feather, though the shepherds are Jolly Miller, caring for nobody and not cared for. now-a-days not much like Ganymede. But why should say more of these things? are they not written in the Boke of Gell? and has not H. got a journal. I keep none, as I have renounced scribbling. All countries are much the same in my eyes. I smoke, and stare at mountains, and twirl my mustaches very independently. I miss no comforts, and the mosquitoes that wrack the morbid frame of H. have, luckily for me, little effect on mine, because I live more temperately. see not much difference between ourselves and the Turks, save that we have **, and they "I omitted Ephesus in my catalogue, which I have none that they have long dresses, and we visited during my sojourn at Smyrna; but the Tem short, and that we talk much and they little. ple has almost perished, and St. Paul need not They are sensible people. Ali trouble himself to epistolize the present brood of 事 * Pacha told me he was sure I was a man of rank, Ephesians, who have converted a large church built because I had small ears and hands and curling entirely of marble into a mosque, and I don't know hair. By-the-by, I speak the Romaic, or modern that the edifice looks the worse for it. Greek, tolerably. It does not differ from the an- My paper is full, and my ink ebbing-good afcient dialects so much as you would conceive; but ternoon! If you address to me at Malta, the letter the pronunciation is diametrieally opposite. Of will be forwarded wherever I may be. Hobhouse verse, except in rhyme, they have no idea. greets you; he pines for his poetry,—at least some "I like the Greeks, who are plausible rascals,-tidings of it. I almost forgot to tell you that I am with all the Turkish vices, without their courage. dying for love of three Greek girls at Athens, sis However, some are brave, and all are beautiful, very ters. I lived in the same house. Teresa, Mari much resesembling the busts of Alcibiades:-the ana, and Katinka, are the names of these divinities, women not quite so handsome. I can swear in Turk- all of them under 15. ish; but, except one horrible oath, and 'pimp,' and 'bread,' and water,' I have got no great vocabulary in that language. They are extremely polite to strangers of any rank, properly protected; and as I have two servants and two soldiers, we get on See Letter xlix. « Your ταπεινότατος όχλος, ↑ Hobhouse's Miscellanies, in which several of Lord Byron's smaller pieces were originally publiated. LETTER LVI. TO MR. HODGSON. LETTER LVIL TO THE HONORABLE MRS. BYRON. "Salsette Frigate, in the Darcanelles, off DEAR MOTHER, "Constantinople, May 24, 1810. "I am on my way to Constantinople, after a tour arrival here, and as another opportunity avails, take "I wrote to you, very shortly, the other day on my through Greece, Epirus, &c., and part of Asia up my pen again, that the frequency of my letters Minor, some particulars of which I have just com- may atone for their brevity. Pray did you ever remunicated to our friend and host, H. Drury. With ceive a picture of me in oil by Sanders, in Vigo-lane, these, then, I shall not trouble you; but, as you will London? (a noted limner:) if not, write for it imperhaps be pleased to hear that I am well, &c., Imediately; it was paid for, except the frame, (if take the opportunity of our ambassador's return frame there be,) before I left England. I believe 1 to forward the few lines I have time to despatch. mentioned to you in my last, that my only notable We have undergone some inconveniences and in-exploit, lately, has been swimming from Sestos to curred partial perils, but no events worthy of com- Abydos on the third of this month, in humble imimunication, unless you will deem it one that two tation of Leander, of amorous memory, though I days ago I swam from Sestos to Abydos. This, had no Hero to receive me on the other shore of the with a few alarms from robbers, and some danger of Hellespont. Of Constantinople you have, of shipwreck in a Turkish galliot six months ago, a course, read fifty descriptions by sundry travellers, visit to a Pacha, a passion for a married woman at which are in general so correct, that I have nothing Malta, a challenge to an officer, an attachment to to add on the subject. three Greek girls at Athens, with a great deal of "When our ambassador takes his leave, I shall buffoonery and fine prospects,-form all that has accompany him to see the sultan, and afterward distinguished my progress since my departure from probably return to Greece. I have heard nothing of Spain. Mr. Hanson, but one remittance, without any letter Hobhouse rhymes and journalizes; I stare and from that gentleman. If you have any occasion for do nothing unless smoking can be deemed an ac- any pecuniary supply, pray use my funds as far as tive amusement. The Turks take too much care they go without reserve; and, lest this should not of their women to permit them to be scrutinized; be enough, in my next to Mr. Hanson I will direct but I have lived a good deal with the Greeks, whose him to advance any sum you may want, leaving it modern dialect I can converse in enough for my to your discretion how much, in the present state of purposes. With the Turks I have also some male my affairs, you may think proper to requirre. I acquaintances-female society is out of the ques- have already seen the most interesting parts of tion. I have been very well treated by the Pachas Turkey in Europe and Asia Minor, but shall not and Governors, and have no complaint to make of proceed farther till I hear from England: in the any kind. Hobhouse will one day inform you of all mean time I shall expect occasional supplies, ac our adventures,-were I to attempt the recital, cording to circumstances, and shall pass my sumneither my paper nor your patience would hold out mer among my friends, the Greeks of the Morea. during the operation. "You will direct to Malta, where my letters are forwarded, and believe me to be, "Nobody, save yourself, has written to me since I left England; but indeed I did not request it. I "With great sincerity, yours ever. except my relations, who write quite as often as I wish. Of Hobhouse's volume I know nothing, ex"P. S. Fletcher is well; pray take care of my cept that it is out; and of my second edition I do boy Robert, and the old man Murray. It is fortunot even know that, and certainly do not, at this nate they returned; neither the youth of the one, distance, interest myself in the matter. * # nor the age of the other, would have suited the I hope you and Bland roll down the stream of sale changes of climate and fatigues of travelling with rapidity. "Of my return I cannot positively speak, but think it probable Hobhouse will precede me in that respect. We have been very nearly one year abroad. I should wish to gaze away another, at least, in these ever-green climates; but I fear business-law business-the worst of employments, will recall me previous to that period, if not very quickly. If so, you shall have due notice. "I hope you will find me an altered personage,-| I do not mean in body, but in manner, for I begin to find out that nothing but virtue will do in this d-d world. I am tolerably sick of vice, which I have tried in its agreeable varieties, and mean, on my return, to cut all my dissolute acquaintance, leave off wine and carnal company, and betake my self to politics and decorum. I am very serious and cynical, and a good deal disposed to moralize; but, fortunately for you, the coming homily is cut off by default of pen and defection of paper. "Good morrow! If you write, address to me at Malta, whence your letters will be forwarded. You need not remember me to any body, but believe me "Yours with all faith, "BYRON." LETTER LVIII. TO MR. HENRY DRURY. "Constantinople, June 17, 18!0. "Though I wrote to you so recently, I break in upon you again to congratulate you on a child being born, as a letter from Hodgson apprizes me of that event, in which I rejoice. "I am just come from an expedition through the Bosphorus to the Black Sea and the Cyanean Symplegades, up which last I scrambled at as great a risk as ever the Argonauts escaped in their hoy. You remember the beginning of the nurse's dole in the Medea, of which I beg you to take the follow ing translation, done on the summit. "Oh how I wish that an embargo But now I fear her trip will be a "I have now sat on the Cyaneans, swam from and said he was sure I was a man of high birth, Bestos to Abydos, (as I trumpeted in my last,) and, because I had small ears, curling hair, and white after passing through the Morea again, shall set hands!! He was very kind to me, begged me to sail for Santa Maura, and toss myself from the consider him as a father, and gave me a guard of Leucadian promontory;-surviving which opera- forty soldiers through the forests of Acarnania. tion, I shall probably rejoin you in England. H., But of this and other circumstances I have written who will deliver this, is bound straight for these at large, and yet hope you will receive my letters. parts; and as he is bursting with his travels, I shall "I remember Mahmout Pacha, the grandson of not anticipate his narratives, but merely beg you Ali Pacha, at Yanina, (a little fellow of ten years not to believe one word he says, but reserve your of age, with large black eyes, which our ladies ear for me, if you have any desire to be acquainted would purchase at any price, and those regular features which distinguish the Turks,) asked me with the truth. * "I am bound for Athens once more, and thence how I came to travel so young, without any body to to the Morea; but my stay depends so much on my take care of me. This question was put by the caprice, that I can say nothing of its probable little man with all the gravity of threescore. 1 duration. I have been out a year already, and may cannot now write copiously; I have only time to stay another; but I am quicksilver, and say noth- tell you that I have passed many a fatiguing, Lut ing positively. We are all very much occupied doing never a tedious moment: and that all I am afraid nothing, at present. We have seen every thing of is, that I shall contract a gipsy-like wandering but the mosques, which we are to view with a disposition, which will make home tiresome to me: firman on Tuesday next. But of these and other this, I am told, is very common with men in the snudries let H. relate, with this proviso, that I am habit of peregrination, and, indeed, I feel it so. to be referred to for authenticity; and I beg leave the third of May, I swam from Sestos to Abydos. to contradict all those things whereon he lays You know the story of Leander, but I had no Hero particular stress. But, if he soars, at any time, to receive me at landing. On into wit, I give you leave to applaud, because that "I also passed a fortnight in the Troad: the is necessarily stolen from his fellow pilgrim. Tell tombs of Achilles and Esyetes still exist in large Davies that H. has made excellent use of his best barrows, similar to those you have, doubtless, seen jokes in many of his majesty's ships of war; but in the North. The other day I was at Belgrade, (a add, also, that I always took care to restore them village in these environs,) to see the house built on to the right owner; in consequence of which he, the same site as Lady Mary Wortley's; by-the-by, (Davies,) is not less famous by water than by land, her Ladyship, as far as I can judge, has lied, but and reigns unrivalled in the cabin, as in the Cocoa not half so much as any other woman would have Tree.' done in the same situation. I have been in all the "And Hodson has been publishing more poesy-principal mosques by the virtue of a firman; this is I wish he would send me his Sir Edgar,' and a favor rarely permitted to infidels, but the ambas Bland's Anthology' to Malta, where they will be sador's departure obtained it for us. I have been forwarded. In my last, which I hope you received, up the Bosphorus into the Black Sea, round the I gave an outline of the ground we have covered. walls of the city, and indeed I know more of it by If you have not been overtaken by this despatch, sight, than I do of London. H.'s tongue is at your service. Remember me to "I hope to amuse you some winter's evening Dwyer, who owes me eleven guineas. Tell him to with the details, but at present you must excuse put them in my banker's hands at Gibralter or me; I am not able to write long letters in June. I Constantinople. I believe he paid them once, but return to spend my summer in Greece. I shall not that goes for nothing, as it was an annuity. proceed further into Asia, as I have visited Smyrna, "I wish you would write. I have heard from Ephesus, and the Troad. I write often, but you Hodgson frequently. Malta is my post-office. I must not be alarmed when you do not receive my mean to be with you by next Montem. You letters; consider we have no regular post further remember the last,-I hope for such another; but, than Malta, where I beg you will in future send after having swam across the broad Hellespont,' I your letters, and not to this city. Fletcher is a disdain Datchett. Good afternoon! "I am yours, very sincerely, LETTER LIX. "BYRON." TO THE HON. MRS. BYRON. MY DEAR MOTHER, "Constantinople, June 28, 1810. poor creature, and requires comforts that I can dispense with. He is very sick of his travels, but you must not believe his account of the country; he sighs for ale, and idleness, and a wife, and the devil knows what besides. I have not been disappointed or disgusted. I have lived with the highest and the lowest. I have been for days in a Pacha's palace, and have passed many a night in a cowhouse, and I find the people inoffensive and kind. I have also passed some time with the principal Greeks in the Morea and Livadia, and, though inferior to the Turks, they are better than the Spaniards, who, in their turn, excel the Portuguese. Of Constantinople you will find many descriptions "I regret to perceive, by your last letter, that in different travels; but Lady Wortley errs strangely several of mine have not arrived, particularly a very when she says, St. Paul's would cut a strange long one, written in November last, from Albania, figure by St. Sophia's.' I have been in both, surwhen I was on a visit to the Pacha of that province. veyed them inside and out attentively. St. Sophia's Fletcher has also written to his spouse perpetually, is undoubtedly the most interesting from its im Mr. Hobhouse, who will forward or deliver this, and mense antiquity, and the circumstance of all the is on his return to England, can inform you of our Greek emperors, from Justinian, having been different movements, but I am very uncertain as to crowned there, and several murdered at the altar, my own return. He will probably be down to besides the Turkish sultans, who attend it regularly. Nott's, some time or other; but Fletcher, whom I But it is inferior in beauty and size to some of the send back as an incumbrance, (English servants mosques, particularly Soleyman,' &c., and not are sad travellers,) will supply his place in the to be mentioned in the same page with St. Paul's, interim, and describe our travels, which have been (I speak like a Cockney.) However, I prefer the tolerably extensive. I have written twice briefly Gothic cathedral of Seville to St. Paul's, St. from thie capital, from Smyrna, from Athens, and Sophia's, and any religious building I have ever other parts of Greece; from Albania, the Pacha of seen. which province desired his respects to my mother, "The walls of the Seraglio are like the walls of |