LETTER XXXVIII. DEAR MOTHER, TO MRS. BYRON. "8, St. James's st., March, 6, 1809. "I am going abroad, if possible, in the spring, and before I depart I am collecting the pictures of my most intimate schoolfellows; I have already a few, and shall want yours, or my cabinet will be incomplete. I have employed one of the first miniature-painters of the day to take them, of course at my own expense, as I never allow my "My last letter was written under great depres-acquaintance to incur the least expenditure to sion of spirits from poor Falkland's death, who gratify a whim of mine. To mention this may has left without a shilling four children and his seem indelicate; but when I tell you a friend of wife. I have been endeavoring to assist them, ours first refused to sit, under the idea that he was which, God knows, I cannot do as I could wish, to disburse on the occasion, you will see that it is from my own embarassments, and the many claims necessary to state these preliminaries to prevent upon me from other quarters. the recurrence of any similar mistake. I shall see "What you say is all very true: come what may you in time, and will carry you to the limner. It Newstead and I stand or fall together. I have now will be a tax on your patience for a week, but pray lived on the spot, I have fixed my heart upon it, excuse it, as it is possible the resemblance may be and no pressure, present or future, shall induce me the sole trace I shall be able to preserve of our past to barter the last vestige of our inheritance. I friendship and present acquaintance. Just now it have that pride within me which will enable me seems foolish enough, but in a few years, when to support difficulties. I can endure privations; some of us are dead, and others are separated by but could I obtain in exchange for Newstead inevitable circumstances, it will be a kind of satis Abbey the first fortune in the country, I would re-faction to retain in these images of the living the ject the proposition. Set your mind at ease on that idea of our former selves, and to contemplate in the score; Mr. Hanson talks like a man of business on resemblance of the dead, all that remains of judgthe subject, I feel like a man of honor, and I will ment, feeling, and a host of passions. But all this not sell Newstead. would be dull enough for you, and so good night, "I shall get my seat on the return of the affida- and to end my chapter, or rather my homily, believe vits from Carhais, in Cornwall, and will do some-me, dear H., yours most affectionately. thing in the House soon; I must dash, or all is over. "P. S. I do not know how you and Alma Mater My Satire must be kept secret for a month; after agree. I was but an untoward child myself, and I that you may say what you please on the subject. believe the good lady and her brat were equally Lord Carlisle has used me infamously, and refused to state any particulars of my family to the Chan-rejoiced when I was weaned; and, if I obtained her benediction at parting, it was, at best, equivocal." cellor. I have lashed him in my rhymes, and perhaps his Lordship may regret not being more conciliatory. They tell me it will have a sale; I hope so, for the bookseller has behaved well, as far as publishing well goes. Believe me, yours truly. "8, St. James's street, March 18, 1809. "There was no necessity for your excuses; if you have time and inclination to write, for what we receive, the Lord make us thankful.'-If I do not hear from you, I console myself with the idea that you are much more agreeably employed. "I am just arrived at Batt's Hotel, Jermyn street, St. James's, from Newstead, and shall be very glad to see you when convenient or agreeable. Hobhouse is on his way up to town, full of printing resolution, and proof against criticism. "Believe me, with great sincerity, yours truly, "BYRON.' LETTER XLI. TO MR. WILLIAM BANKES. "Twelve o'clock, Friday nigh "I send down to you by this post a certain Satire lately published, and in return for the three and sixpence expenditure upon it, only beg that if you should guess the author, you will keep his name secret; at least, for the present. London is full of the Duke's business. The Commons have been at it these last three nights and are not yet come to a "MY DEAR BANKES, decision. I do not know if the affair will be brought before our House, unless in the shape of an impeach"I have just received your note; believe me. I ment. If it makes its appearance in a debatable regret most sincerely that I was not fortunate form, I believe I shall be tempted to say something enough to see it before, as I need not repeat to you, on the subject-I am glad to hear you like Cam- that your conversation for half an hour would have bridge: firstly, because to know that you are happy been much more agreeable to me than gambling or is pleasant to one who wishes you all possible sub-drinking, or any other fashionable mode of passing lunary enjoyment; and, secondly, I admire the mo- an evening abroad or at home. I really am very rality of the sentiment. Alma Mater was to me injusta noverca; and the old Beldam only gave me my M. A. degree because she could not avoid it.You know what a farce a noble Cantab. must per form. • See English Bands, and note p. 461. sorry that I went out previous to the arrival of your LETTER XLIV. TO MR. HODGSON. "I am about to sail in a few days; probably before this reaches you. Fletcher begged so hard, that I have continued him in my service. If he does not behave well abroad, I will send him back in a transport. I have a German servant, (who has been with Mr. Wilbraham in Persia before, and was strongly recommended to me by Dr. Butler of Harrow,*) Robert, and William; they constitute my whole suite. I have letters in plenty-you shall hear from me at the different ports I touch upon; but you must not be alarmed if my letters miscarry. "MY DEAR HODGSON, The continent is in a fine state-an insurrection "Before this reaches you, Hobhouse, two officers has broken out at Paris, and the Austrians are wives, three children, two waiting-maids, ditto sub beating Bonaparte-the Tyrolese have risen. alterns for the troops, three Portugese esquires and "There is a picture of me in oil, to be sent down domestics, in all nineteen souls, will have sailed in to Newstead scou.-I wish the Miss Pigots had the Lisbon packet, with the noble Captain Kidd, a something better to do than carry my miniatures to gallant commander as ever smuggled an anchor Nottingham to copy. Now they have done it, you of right Nantz. "Falmouth, June 15, 180e may ask them to copy the others, which are greater "We are going to Lisbon first, because the favorites than my own. As to money matters, Malta packet has sailed, d'ye see?-from Lisbon am ruined-at least till Rochdale is sold; and if to Gibralter, Malta, Constantinople, and all that," that does not turn out well, I shall enter into the as Orator Henley said, when he put the Church, Austrian or Russian service-perhaps the Turkish, and all that,' in danger. if I like their manners. The world is all before me, and I leave England without regret, and without a wish to revisit any thing it contains, except your self, and your present residence. "Believe me, yours ever sincerely. conjecture, is no great ways from the sea. It is "This town of Falmouth, as you will partly defended on the sea-side by tway castles, St. Maws and Pendennis, extremely well calculated for annoy ing every body except an enemy. St. Maws is "P. S. Pray tell Mr. Rushton his son is well, garrisoned by an able-bodied person of fourscore, a and doing well; so is Murray, indeed better than I widower. He has the whole command and sole ever saw him; he will be back in about a month. management of six most unmanageable pieces of I ought to add the leaving Murray to my few regrets, ordnance, admirably adapted for the destruction as his age perhaps will prevent my seeing him of Pendennis, a like tower of strength on the again. Robert I take with me; I like him, because, opposite side of the Channel. We have seen St. like myself, he seems a friendless animal." Maws, but Pendennis they will not let us behold, save at a distance, because Hobhouse and I are suspected of having already taken St. Maws by a coup de main. "The town contains many quakers and salt fish -the oysters have a taste of copper, owing to the soil of a mining country-the women (blessed be the Corporation therefor!) are flogged at the cart's tail when they pick and steal, as happened to one of the fair sex yesterday noon. She was pertinacious in her behavior, and damned the mayor. Hodgson! remember me to the Drury, and remember me to-yourself when drunk:-I am not worth a sober thought. Look to my Satire at Cawthorne's, Cockspur street. "We sail to-morrow in the Lisbon packet, having been detained till now by the lack of wind, and "I don't know when I can write again, because other necessaries. These being at last procured, it depends on that experienced navigator, Captain by this time to-morrow evening we shall be Kidd, and the stormy winds that (don't) blow,' at embarked on the ride world of vaters, vor all the this season. I leave England without regret-I world like Robinson Crusoe. The Malta vessel not shall return to it without pleasure. I am like sailing for some weeks, we have determined to go Adam, the first convict, sentenced to transportaby way of Lisbon, and, as my servants term it, to tion, but I have no Eve, and have eaten no apple ree that there Portingale; thence to Cadiz and but what was sour as a crab; and thus ends my Gibralter, and so on our old route to Malta and first chapter. Adieu. "Yours, &c." Constantinople, if so be that Captain Kidd, our gallant commander, understands plain sailing and Mercator, and takes us on our voyage all according Co the chart. "Will you tell Dr. Butler that I have taken the treasure of a servant, Friese, the native of Prussia Froper, into my service from his recommendation. He has been all among the Worshippers of Fire in Persia, and seen Persepolis and all that. "Hobhouse has made woundy preparations for a book on his return; one hundred pens, two gallons of japan ink, and several volumes of best blank, is no bad provision for a discerning public. I have LETTER XLV. TO ME. HODGSON. Lisbon, July 16, 1909. "Thus far have we pursued our route, and seen all sorts of marvellous sights, palaces, convents, &c.which, being to be heard in my friend Hobhouse's forthcoming Book of Travels, I shall not anticipate by smuggling any account whatsoever to you in a private and clandestine manner. I must iust observe The Spanish women are all alike, their education the same. The wife of a that the village of Cintra in Estremadura is the the comparison. most beautiful, perhaps, in the world. • I am very happy here, because I loves oranges, duke is, in information, as the wife of a peasant,-and talk bad Latin to the monks, who understand the wife of a peasant, in manner, equal to a duchess. it, as it is like their own,-and I goes into society, Certainly, they are fascinating; but their minds (with my pocket pistols,) and I swims in the Tagus have only one idea, and the business of their lives all across at once, and I rides on an ass or a mule, is intrigue. and swears Portuguese, and have got a diarrhea and "I have seen Sir John Carr at Seville and Cadiz, bites from the musquitoes. But what of that? and like Swift's barber, have been down on my Comfort must not be expected by folks that go a knees to beg he would not put me into black and pleasuring. white. Pray remember me to the Drurys and the "When the Portuguese are pertinacious, I say, Davies, and all of that stamp who are yet extant. Carracho!'-the great oath of the grandees, that Send me a letter and news to Malta. My next very well supplies the place of Damme,'-and, epistle shall be from Mount Caucasus or Mount when dissatisfied with my neighbor, I pronounce Sion. I shall return to Spain before I see England him Ambra di merdo.' With these two phrases, for I am enamored of the country. and a third. Avra Bouro,' which signifiethGet an ass,' I am universally understood to be a person of degree and a master of languages. How merrily we lives that travellers be!-if we had food and raiment. But, in sober sadness, any thing is better than England, and I am infinitely amused with my pilgrimage as far as it has gone. To-morrow we start to ride post near 400 miles as far as Gibraltar, where we embark for Melita and Byzantium. A letter to Malta will find me, or to be forwarded, if I am absent. Pray embrace the Drury and Dwyer and all the Ephesians you encounter. I am writing with Butler's donative pencil, which makes my bad hand worse. Excuse illegibility. "Hodgson! send me the news, and the deaths, and defeats, and capital crimes, and the misfortunes of one's friends; and let us hear of literary matters, and the controversies and the criticismns. All this will be pleasant-Suave mari magno,' &c. Talking of that, I have been sea-sick, and sick of the sea. Adieu. "Yours faithfully, &c." LETTER XLVI. TO MR HODGSON. "Gibralter, August 6, 1809. 66 Adieu, and believe me, &c " LETTER XLVII. "I have been so much occupied since my depar ture from England, that till I could address you at length, I have forborne writing altogether. As I have now passed through Portugal, and a considerable part of Spain, and have leisure at this place, I shall endeavor to give you a short detail of my movements. We sailed from Falmouth on the 2d of July, reached Lisbon after a very favorable passage of four days and a half, and took up our abode in that city. It has often been described without being worthy of description; for, except the view from the Tagus, which is beautiful, and some fine churches and convents, it contains little but filthy streets and more filthy inhabitants.* "To make amends for this, the village of Cintra, about fifteen miles from the capital, is, perhaps in every respect, the most delightful in Europe; it contains beauties of every description, natural and artificial. Palaces and gardens rising in the midst I have just arrived at this place after a journey of rocks, cataracts, and precipices; convents on through Portugal, and a part of Spain, of nearly stupendous heights-a distant view of the sea and five hundred miles. We left Lisbon and travelled the Tagus; and, besides (though that is a secon horseback to Seville and Cadiz, and thence in dary consideration) is remarkable as the scene of the Hyperion frigate to Gibralter. The horses are Sir H. D.'s Convention. It unites in itself all the excellent-we rode seventy miles a day. Eggs and wildness of the western highlands, with the verwine and hard beds are all the acommodation we dure of the South of France. Near this place, found, and, in such torrid weather, quite enough. about ten miles to the right, is the palace of Mafra, My health is better than in England. the boast of Portugal, as it might be of any coun Seville is a fine town, and the Sierra Morena, try, in point of magnificence without elegance. part of which we crossed, a very sufficient mountain, There is a convent annexed; the monks, who pos but damn description, it is always disgusting. sess large revenues, are courteous enough, and unCadiz, sweet Cadiz-it is the first spot in the derstand Latin, so that we had a long conversation: creation. The beauty of its streets and they have a large library, and asked me if the mansions is only excelled by the loveliness of its English had any books in their country. inhabitants. For, with all national prejudice, I "I sent my baggage and part of the servants' by must confess the women of Cadiz are as far superior sea to Gibralter, and travelled on horseback from to the English women in beauty as the Spaniards Aldea Galheda, (the first stage from Lisbon, which are inferior to the English in every quality that is only accessible by water,) to Seville, (one of the dignifies the name of man. Just as I most famous cities in Spain,) where the governbegan to know the principal persons of the city, I ment called the Junta is now held. The distance was obliged to sail. to Seville is nearly four hundred miles, and to Cadiz You will not expect a long letter after my riding almost ninety miles further towards the coast. 1 so far on hollow pampered jades of Asia.' Talk- had orders from the government, and every possible ing of Asia puts me in mind of Africa, which is accommodation on the road, as an English noblewithin five miles of my present residence. I am man, in an English uniform, is a very respectable going over before I go on to Constantinople. personage in Spain at present. The horses are reCadiz is a complete Cythera. Many markably good, and the roads (I assure you upon of the grandees who have left Madrid during the my honor, for you will hardly believe it) very far troubles reside there, and I believe it the prettiest superior to the best British roads, without the and cleanest town in Europe. London is filthy in • See Chil le Harold, canto 1., stanaa xviii., &c. Se Childe Harold, Canto I., stanaa xvi. ↑ Ibid, xxiv. ་་ smallest toll or turnpike. You will suppose this of incommoding the ladies in front, when this fair when I rode post to Seville in four days, through Spaniard dispossessed an old woman (an aunt or a this parching country, in the midst of summer, duenna) of her chair, and commanded me to be without fatigue of annoyance. Seville is a beauti-seated next herself, at a tolerable distance from her ful town; though the streets are narrow they are mamma. At the close of the performance I withclean. We lodged in the house of two Spanish drew, and was lounging with a party of men in the unmarried ladies, who possess six houses in Seville, passage, when, en passant, the lady turned round and gave me a curious specimen of Spanish man- and called me, and I had the honor of attending ners. They are women of character, and the eld- her to the admiral's mansion. I have an invitation est, a fine woman, the youngest pretty, but not so on my return to Cadiz, which I shall accept, if 1 good a figure as Donna Josepha. The freedom of repass through the country on my return from Asia. manner which is general here, astonished me not a I have met Sir John Carr, knight errant, at Se little; and in the course of further obervation I find ville and Cadiz. He is a pleasant man. I like the that reserve is not the characteristic of the Spanish Spaniards much. You have heard of the battle belles, who are, in general, very handsome, with near Madrid, and in England they call it a vietorylarge black eyes, and very fine forms. The eldest a pretty victory! two hundred officers, and ve honored your unworthy son with very particular thousand men killed, all English; and the French attention, embracing him with great tenderness at in as great force as ever. I should have joined the parting, (I was there but three days,) after cutting army, but we have no time to lose before we get up uff a lock of his hair, and presenting him with one the Mediterranean and Archipelago. I am going over of her own, about three feet in length, which I to Africa to-morrow; it is only six miles from this send, and beg you will retain till my return. Her fortress. My next stage is Cagliari in Sardinia, last words were, Adios, tu hermoso! me gusto where I shall be presented to his majesty. I have mucho.'- Adieu, you pretty fellow, you please me a most superb uniform as a court dress, indismuch.' She offered a share of her apartment, which pensable in travelling. my virtue induced me to decline: she laughed, and August 13th.-I have not been to Africa: the said I had some English amante,' (lover,) and added that she was going to be married to an officer in the Spanish army. "I left Seville, and rode on to Cadiz, through a beautiful country. At Xeres, where the sherry we drank is made, I met a great merchant, a Mr. Gordon of Scotland, who was extremely polite, and favored me with the inspection of his vaults and cellars, so that I quaffed at the fountain head. wind is contrary; but I dined yesterday at Alge siras, with Lady Westmoreland, where I met Gen eral Castanos, the celebrated Spanish leader, in the late and present war: to-day I dine with him; he has offered me letters to Tetuan in Barbary, for the principal Moors; and I am to have the house for a few days of one of the great men, which was intended for Lady W., whose health will not permit her to cross the Straits. "Cadiz, sweet Cadiz, is the most delightful town August 15th.-I could not dine with Castanos yes I ever beheld, very different from our English cities terday, but this afternoon I had that honor: be is in every respect, except cleanliness, (and it as clean pleasant, and for aught I know to the contrary, as London,) but still beautiful and full of the finest clever. I cannot go to Barbary. The Malta packet women in Spain, the Cadiz belles being the Lan- sails to-morrow, and myself in it. Admiral Purvis, cashire witches of their land. Just as I was intro- with whom I dined at Cadiz, gave me a passage in a duced, and began to like the grandees, I was forced frigate to Gibralter, but we have no ship of war des to leave it for this accursed place; but before I re-tined for Malta at present. The packets sail fast, turn to England I will visit it again. The night and have good accommodations. You shall hear before I left it, I sat in the box at the opera with from me on our route. Joe Murray delivers this. I Admiral Cordova's family; he is the commander have sent him and the boy back; pray show the whom Lord St. Vincent defeated in 1797, and has lad every kindness, as he is my great favorite. I an aged wife and a fine daughter, Senorita Cordova; hope this will find you well. the girl is very pretty in the Spanish style, in my "Believe me, ever yours sincerely, opinion by no means inferior to the English in "BYRON. charms, and certainly superior in fascination. Long "P. S. So Lord G. is married to a rustic! well black hair, dark languishing eyes, clear olive com- done! If I wed, I will bring you home a Sultana. plexions, and forms more graceful in motion than with half a dozen cities for a dowry, and reconcile can be conceived by an Englishman used to the you to an Ottoman daughter-in-law with a bushel of drowsy, listless air of his countrywomen, added to pearls, not larger than ostrich eggs or smaller than the most becoming dress, and, at the same time, walnuts' LETTER XLVIII. "MR. RUSHTON, TO MR. RUSHTON. "Gibraltar, August 15, 1805. the most decent in the world, render a Spanish beauty irresistible. I beg leave to observe that intrigue here is the business of life; when a woman marries she throws off all restraint, but I believe. their conduct is chaste enough before. If you make a proposal, which in England would bring a box on the car from the meekest of virgins, to a Spanish girl, she thanks you for the honor you intend her, and replies, Wait till I am married, and I shall be too happy. This is literally and strictly true. Miss C. and her little brother understood a little French, and, after regretting my ignorance of the Spanish, "I have sent Robert home with Mr. Murray, be she proposed to become my preceptress in that lan- cause the country which I am about to travel guage. I could only reply by a low bow, and express through is in a state which renders it unsafe, par my regret that I quitted Cadiz too socn to permit ticularly for one so young. I allow you to deduct me to make the progress which would doubtless at- five-and-twenty pounds a year for his education for tend my studies under so charming a directress. I three years, provided I do not return before that was standing at the back of the box, which resem- time, and I desire he may be considered as in my ser bles our opera boxes, (the theatre is large, and vice. Let every care be taken of him, and let him finely decorated, the music admirable,) in the man- be sent to school. In case of my death I have pro aeria which Englishmen generally adopt, for fear vided enough in my will to render him independent. • Bee Childe Harold, canto 1., stanza ixv., &c. † Don Juan, canto i., stanza viil. Bes Childe Harold, canto i., stanza lxv., &c. He has behaved extremely well, and has travelled a great deal for the time of his absence. Deduct LETTER XLIX. TO THE HONORABLE MRS. BYRON. DRAR MOTHER, "Malta, Sept. 15, 1809. &c., I have not been permitted to pay for a single article of household consumption. "I rode out on the vizier's horses, and saw the palaces of himself and grandsons: they are splendid, but too much ornamented with silk and gold. I then went over the mountains through Zitza, a vil"Though I have a very short time to spare, being lage with a Greek monastery, (where I slept on my sail immediately for Greece, I cannot avoid return,) in the most beautiful situation (always extaking an opportunity of telling you that I am well. cepting Cintra, in Portugal) I ever beheld. In nine I have been in Malta, a short time, and have found days I reached Tepalen. Our journey was much the inhabitants hospitable and pleasant. This letter prolonged by the torrents that had fallen from the is committed to the charge of a very extraordinary mountains, and intersected the roads. I shall never woman, whom you have doubtless heard of, Mrs. forget the singular scene on entering Tepalen at Spencer Smith, of whose escape the Marquis de five in the afternoon, as the sun was going down. It Salvo published a narrative a few years ago. She brought to my mind (with some change of dress, has since been shipwrecked, and her life has been however) Scott's description of Branksome Castic from its commencement so fertile in remarkable in- in his Lay, and the feudal system. The Albanians, ridents, that in a romance they would appear im- in their dresses, (the most magnificent in the probable. She was born at Constantinople, where world, consisting of a long white kilt, gold-worked her father, Baron Herbert, was Austrian ambas-cloak, crimson velvet gold laced jacket and waistsador; married unhappily, yet has never been coat, silver-mounted pistols and daggers,) the Tarimpeached in point of character; excited the ven- tars with their high caps, the Turks in their vast geance of Bonaparte by a part in some conspi- pelisses and turbans, the soldiers and black slaves racy; several times risked her life; and is not yet with the horses, the former in groups in an im twenty-five. She is here in her way to England, mense large open gallery in front of the palace, to join her husband, being obliged to leave Trieste, the latter placed in a kind of cloister below it, two where she was paying a visit to her mother, by hundred steeds ready caparisoned to move in a the approach of the French, and embarks soon moment, couriers entering or passing out with dis in a ship of war. Since my arrival here, I have patches, the kettle-drums beating, boys calling the had scarcely any other companion. I have found hour from the minaret of the mosque-altogether, her very pretty, very accomplished, and extremely ec- with the singular appearance of the building itself, centric. Bonaparte is even now so incensed against formed a new and delightful spectacle to a stranher, that her life would be in some danger if she ger. I was conducted to a very handsome apart. were taken prisoner a second time. ment, and my health inquired after by the vizier's "Adieu. Believe me with sincerity, yours ever, LETTER L. TO MRS. BYRON. You have seen Murray and Robert by this time, secretary, á la-mode Turque!' and received my letter-little has happened since "The next day I was introduced to Ali Pacha. 1 that date. I have touched at Cagliari, in Sardinia, was dressed in a full suit of staff uniform, with a and at Girgenti, in Sicily, and embark to-morrow very magnificent sabre, &c. The vizier received me for Patras, from whence I proceed to Yanina, where in a large room paved with marble; a fountain* Ali Pacha holds his Court, so I soon shall be among was playing in the centre; the apartment was the Mussulmans. surrounded by scarlet ottomans. He received me standing, a wonderful compliment from a Mussul"BYRON." Inan, and made me sit down on his right hand. I have a Greek interpreter for general use, but a physician of Ali's, named Femlario, who under stands Latin, acted for me on this occasion. His first question was, why, at so early an age, I left my country?-(the Turks have no idea of travelling for amusement.) He then said, the English minister, Captain Leake, had told him I was of a great family, and desired his respects to my mother; which I now, in the name of Ali Pacha, present to "I have now been some time in Turkey; this you. He said he was certain I was a man of birth, place is on the coast, but I have traversed the inte- because I had small ears, curling hair, and little rior of the province of Albania on a visit to the white hands,† and expressed himself pleased with Pacha. I left Malta in the Spider, a brig of war, my appearance and garb. He told me to consider on the 21st of September, and arrived in eight days him as a father while I was in Turkey, and said he at Prevesa. I thence have been about one hundred looked on me as his son. Indeed, he treated me and fifty miles as far as Tepalen, his highness's like a child, sending me almonds and sugared country palace, where I stayed three days. The sherbet, fruit and sweetmeats, twenty times a day. name of the Pacha is Ali, and he is considered a He begged me to visit him often, and at night, man of the first abilities: he governs the whole of when he was at leisure. I then after coffee and Albania, (the ancient Illyricum,) Epirus, and part pipes, retired for the first time. I saw him thrice of Macedonia. His son, Vely Pacha, to whom he afterward. It is singular that the Turks, who have has given me letters, governs the Morea, and has no hereditary dignities, and few great families, great influence in Egypt; in short he is one of the except the Sultans, pay so much respect to birth; most powerful men in the Ottoman empire. When for I found my pedigree more regarded than my I reached Yanina, the capital, after a journey of title. MY DEAR MOTHER, three days over the mountains, through a country "His highness is sixty years old, very fat, and of the most picturesque beauty, I found that Ali not tall, but with a fine face, light blue eyes, and a Pacha was with his army in Illyricum, besieging white beard; his manner is very kind, and at the Ibrahim Pacha in the castle of Berat. He had same time he possesses that dignity which I find heard that an Englishman of rank was in his do- universal among the Turks. He has the appear minions, and had left orders in Yanina with the ance of any thing but his real character; for he is a commandment to provide a house, and supply me remorseless tyrant, guilty of the most horrible with every kind of necessary gratis; and though cruelties, very brave, and so good a general that have been allowed to make presents to the slaves, they call him the Mahometan Bonaparte. Napoleon has twice offered to make him king of Epirus, but I • The "Flarence" of several of his smaller roe; and alluded to in de Hard, canto il, stanza xxx. 1 Bee Childs Harold, canto ii., stanza izv • See Don Juan, canto v., stanza iv., and note. † Ibid, stanza cví., and note. |