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Ask ye, Baotian shades, the reason why?
Stanza lxx. line 5.

This was written at Thebes, and consequently in the best situation for asking and answering such a question: not as the birthplace of Pindar, buz as the capital of Boeotia, where the first riddle was propounded and solved.

16.

When Cava's traitor sire first call'd the band That dyed thy mountain streams with Gothic gore. Stanza xxxv. lines 3 and 4. Count Julian's daughter, the Helen of Spain. Pelagius preserved his independence in the fastnesses of the Asturias, and the descendants of his Surgit amari aliquid quod in ipsis floribus angat." followers, after some centuries, completed their struggle by the conquest of Grenada

Some bitter o'er the flowers its bubbling venom flings Stanza lxxxii. line laut. "Medio de fonte leporum

8.

17.

Luc.

A traitor only fell beneath the feud.
Stanza lxxxv. line 7.
Alluding to the conduct and death of Solano,
the Governor of Cadiz.

18.

"War even to the knife!"

No! as he speeds, he chants, "Viva el Rey!" Stanza xlviii. line 5. "Viva el Rey Fernando!" Long live King Ferdinand! is the chorus of most of the Spanish patriotic songs: they are chiefly in dispraise of the Stanza Ixxxvi. line last. old king Charles, the Queen, and the Prince of Peace. I have heard many of them; some of the "War to the knife." Palafox's answer to the airs are beautiful. Godoy, the Principe de la Paz, French general at the siege of Saragoza.

was born at Badajoz, on the frontiers of Portugal, and was originally in the ranks of the Spanish Guarda, till his person attracted the queen's eyes, and raised him to the dukedom of Alcudia, &c. &c. It is to this man that the Spaniards universally impute the ruin of their country.

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The Honorable I*. W**. of the Guards, who died of a fever at Coinbra. I had known him ten years, the better half of his life, and the happiest part of mine.

In the short space of one month I had lost her who gave me being, and most of those who had made that being tolerable. To me the lines of Young are no fiction:

"Insatiate archer! could not one suffice?

Thy shaft flew thrice, and thrice my peace was slain,
And thrice ere thrice yon moon had filled her horn."

I should have ventured a verse to the memory of the late Charles Skinner Matthews, Fellow of Downing College, Cambridge, were he not too much above all praise of mine. His powers of mind, shown in the attainment of greater honors, against the ablest candidates, than those of any graduate on record at Cambridge, bave sufficiently established his fame on the spot where it was acquired: while his softer qualities live in the recollection of friends who loved him too well to envy his superiority.

CANTO II.

1.

Oh, thou Parnassus !

Stanza lx. line 1. These stanzas were written in Castri, (Delphos,) at the foot of Parnassus, now called AtakupaLiakura.

-despite of war and wasting fire

Stanza i. line 1. PART of the Acropolis was destroyed by the explosion of a magazine during the Venetian siege.

2.

common with many of his countrymen-for, lost as they are, they yet feel on this occasion-thus may Lord Elgin boast of having ruined Athens. An Italian painter of the first eminence, named Lusieri,

But worse than steel and flame, and ages slow, Is the dread sceptre and dominion dire Of men who never felt the sacred glow That thoughts of thee and thine on polish'd breasts is the agent of devastation; and like the Greek

bestow.

Stanza i. line 6.

finder of Verres in Sicily, who followed the same profession, he has proved the able instrument of We can all feel, or imagine, the regret with plunder. Between this artist and the French Conwhich the ruins of cities, once the capitals of snl Fauvel, who wishes to rescue the remains for empires, are beheld; the reflections suggested by his own government, there is now a violent dispute Buch objects are too trite to require recapitulation. concerning a car employed in their conveyance, the But never did the littleness of man, and the vanity wheel of which-I wish they were both broken upon of his very best virtues of patriotism to exalt, and it has been locked up by the Consul, and Lusieri of valor to defend his country, appear more con- has laid his complaint before the Waywode. Lord spicuous than in the record of what Athens was, Elgin has been extremely happy in his choice of and the certainty of what she now is. This theatre Signor Lusieri. During a residence of ten years in of contention between mighty factions, of the Athens, he never had the curiosity to proceed as far struggles of orators, the exaltation and deposition as Sunium, till he accompanied us in our second of tyrants, the triumph and punishment of gen- excursion. However, his works, as far as they go, erals, is now become a scene of petty intrigue and are most beautiful; but they are almost all unfinperpetual disturbance, between the bickering agents ished. While he and his patrons confine themof certain British nobility and gentry. "The wild selves to tasting medals, appreciating cameos, foxes, the owls and serpents in the ruins of Baby- sketching columns, and cheapening gems, their lon,' were surely less degrading than such inhab- little absurdities are as harmless as insect or foxitants. The Turks have the plea of conquest for hunting, maiden speechifying, barouche-driving, or their tyranny, and the Greeks have only suffered any such pastime; but when they carry away three the fortune of war, incidental to the bravest; but or four shiploads of the most valuable and massy how are the mighty fallen, when two painters relics that time and barbarism have left to the most contest the privilege of plundering the Parthenon, injured and most celebrated of cities; when they and triumph in turn, according to the tenor of each destroy, in a vain attempt to tear down, those works succeeding firman! Sylla could but punish, Philip which have been the admiration of ages, I know no subdue, and Xerxes burn Athens; but it remained motive which can excuse, no name which can desig for the paltry antiquarian, and his despicable nate, the perpetrators of this dastardly devastation. agents, to render her contemptible as himself and It was not the least of the crimes laid to the charge his pursuits.

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The Parthenon, before its destruction in part, by
fire, during the Venetian siege, had been a temple,
a church, and a mosque. In each point of view it
is an object of regard: it changed its worshippers;
but still it was a place of worship thrice sacred to
devotion; its violation is a triple sacrilege. But
"Man, vain man,

Drest in a little brief authority,
Plays such fantastic tricks before high heaven
As make the angels weep."

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manner since imitated at Athens. The most un of Verres, that he had plundered Sicily, in the blushing impudence could hardly go farther than to affix the name of its plunderer to the walls of the Acropolis; while the wanton and useless deface ment of the whole range of the basso-relievos, in one compartment of the temple, will never permit that name to be pronounced by an observer without execration.

On this occasion I speak impartially: I am not a collector or admirer of collections, consequently no rival; but I have some early prepossession in favor of Greece, and do not think the honor of England advanced by plunder, whether of India or Attica.

Another noble Lord has done better, because he has done less; but some others, more or less noble, yet "all honorable men," have done best, because, after a deal of excavation and execration, bribery to

It was not always the custom of the Greeks to burn their dead; the greater Ajax, in particular, was interred entire. Almost all the chiefs became gods after their decease; and he was indeed negfected, who had not annual games near his tomb, or Marathon, there is no scene more interesting than Cape Colonna. To the Now Cape Colonna. In all Attica, if we except Athens itself, and festivals in honor of his memory by his countrymen, antiquary and artist, sixteen columns are an inexhaustible source of obere as Achilles, Brasidas, &c., and at last even Anti-tion and design; to the philosopher, the supposed scene of some of Platob nous, whose death was as heroic as his life was in-conversations will not be unwelcome; and the traveller will be struce with famous.

4.

Here, son of Saturn! was thy favorite throne.
Stanza x. line 3.

The temple of Jupitur Olympius, of which sixteen columns, entirely of marble, yet survive; originally there were one hundred and fifty. These columns, however, are by many supposed to belong to the Pantheon.

5.

And bear these altars o'er the long reluctant brine.
Stanza xi. line last

The ship was wrecked in the Archipelago.

6.

To rive what Goth, and Turk, and Time have spared.
Stanza xii. line 2.

At this moment, (January 3, 1809,) besides what

the beauty of the prospect over Isles that crown the Egean deep:” ban ki an Englishman, Colonna has yet an additional interest, as the actaj spæ of Falconer's Shipwreck. Pallas and Plato are forgotten, in the rese lection of Falconer and Campbell:

"Here in the dead of night by Lonna's steep,

The seaman's cry was heard along the deep."

This temple of Minerva may be seen at sea from a great distance. In twe
either side, by land, was less striking than the approach from the isles, le
our second land excursion, we had a narrow escape from a party of Minot,
concealed in the caverns beneath. We were told afterwards, by one of theit
prisoners subsequently rausomed, that they were deterred from attacking
by the appearance of my two Albanians: conjecturing very sagaciously, tet
falsely, that we had a complete guard of these Arnaouts at batul, they
remained stationars and this saved our party, which was too small tur la
opposed any effectual resistance.

Journeys which I made, and one voyage to Cape Colonna, the view (rod

Colonna is no less a resort of painters than of pirates: there

"The hireling artist plants his paltry desk,

And makes degraded nature picture que,"
See Hoigeon’a Ladly Jane (ry, là n

But there Nature, with the aid of Art, has done that for hernel. I um

has been already deposited in London, an Hydriot fortunate enough to engage a very superior German artist; and hope vessel is in the Pyræus to receive every portable relia

renew my acquaintance with this and many other Levartine scenen, by it

Thus, as I heard a young Greek observe, in arrive of his performances.

the Waywode, mining and countermining, they have and adds Pyrrhus to the list, in speaking of his exdone nothing at all. We had such ink-shed, and wine-ploits.

shed, which almost ended in bloodshed! Lord E.'s Of Albania Gibbon remarks, that a country "prig"-see Jonathan Wild for the definition of "within sight of Italy is less known than the inte"priggism "-quarrelled with another, Gropius by rior of America." Circumstances, of little consename, (a very good name too for his business,) and quence to mention, led Mr. Hobhouse and myself muttered something about satisfaction, in a verbal into that country before we visited any other part answer to a note of the poor Prussian: this was of the Ottoman dominions; and, with the exception stated at table to Gropius, who laughed, but could of Major Leake, then officially resident at Joannina eat no dinner afterwards. The rivals were not no other Englishmen have ever advanced beyond reconciled when I left Greece. I have reason to re- the capital into the interior, as that gentleman very member their squabble, for they wanted to make me lately assured me. Ali Pacha was at that time (Oc their arbitrator. tober, 1809), carrying on war against Ibraham 7. Pacha, whom he had driven to Berat, a strong for tress which he was then besieging: on our arrival at Joannina we were invited to Tepoleni, his high ness's birthplace, and favorite Serai, only one day's distance from Berat; at this juncture the Vizier had made it his head-quarters.

Her sons too weak the sacred shrine to guard,
Yet felt some portion of their mother's pains.
Stanza xii. lines 7 and 8.

I cannot resist availing myself of the permission of my friend Dr. Clarke, whose name requires no comment with the public, but whose sanction will add tenfold weight to my testimony, to insert the following extract from a very obliging letter of his to me, as a note to the above lines.

After some stay in the capital, we accordingly followed; but though furnished with every accommodation, and escorted by one of the vizier's secre taries, we were nine days (on account of the rains) in accomplishing a journey which, on our return barely occupied four.

"When the last of the Metopes was taken from the Parthenon, and in moving of it, great part of On our route we passed two cities, Argyrocastro the superstructure with one of the triglyphs was and Libochabo, apparently little inferior to Yanina thrown down by the workmen whom Lord Elgin in size; and no pencil or pen can ever do justice to employed, the Disdar, who beheld the mischief the scenery in the vicinity of Zitza and Delvinachi, done to the building, took his pipe from his mouth, the frontier village of Epirus and Albania Proper. dropped a tear, and, in a supplicating tone of voice, said to Lusieri, TeAus!-I was present."

The Disdar alluded to was the father of the pres

ent Disdar.

8.

Where was thine Egis, Pallas! that appall'd
Stern Alaric and Havoc on their way?
Stanza xiv. lines 1 and 2.

On Albania and its inhabitants I am unwilling to descant, because this will be done so much better by my fellow-traveller, in a work which may probably precede this in publication, that I as little wish to follow as I would to anticipate him. But some few observations are necessary to the text.

The Arnaouts, or Albanese, struck me forcibly by their resemblance to the Highlanders of Scotland, According to Zosimus, Minerva and Achilles in dress, figure, and manner of living. Their very frightened Alaric from the Acropolis; but others mountains seemed Caledonian, with a kinder clírelate that the Gothic king was nearly as mischiev-mate. The kilt, though white; the spare, active Jus as the Scottish peer. See CHANDLER.

9.

form; their dialect, Celtic in its sound, and their hardy habits, all carried me back to Morven. No nation are so detested and dreaded by their neighbors as the Albanese; the Greeks hardly regard them as Christians, or the Turks as Moslems; and in fact they are a mixture of both, and sometimes The netting to prevent blocks or splinters from neither. Their habits are predatory-all are armed. falling on deck during action.

-the netted canopy.

10.

Stanza xviii. line 2.

But not in silence pass Calypso's isles
Stanza xxix. line 1.

Goza is said to have been the island of Calypso.

11.

ter.

and the red-shawled Arnaouts, the Montenegrins, Chimariots, and Gegdes, are treacherous; the others differ somewhat in garb, and essentially in characAs far as my own experience goes, I can speak favorably. I was attended by two, an Infidel and a Mussulman, to Constantinople and every other par of Turkey which came within my observation; and more faithful in peril, or indefatigable in service, are rarely to be found. The Infidel was named Basilius, the Moslem, Dervish Tahiri; the former a man of middle age, and the latter about my own. Basili was strictly charged by Ali Pacha in person Albania comprises part of Macedonia, Illyria, companied us through the forests of Acarnania to to attend us; and Dervish was one of fifty who acChaonia, and Epirus. Iskander is the Turkish the banks of Achelous, and onward to Messalonghi word for Alexander; and the celebrated Scander- in Etolia. There I took him into my own service, berg (Lord Alexander) is alluded to in the third and and never had occasion to repent it till the moment fourth lines of the thirty-eighth stanza. I do not of my departure.

Land of Albania! let me bend mine eyes
On thee, thou rugged nurse of savage men!
Stanza xxxviii. lines 5 and 6.

know whether I am correct in making Scanderberg When, in 1810, after the departure of my friend the countryman of Alexander, who was born at Mr. H. for England, I was seized with a severe fever Pella in Macedon, but Mr. Gibbon terms him so, in the Morea, these men saved my life by frightening away my physician, whose throat they threat

* The Sir Gropms was employed by a noble Lord for the sole purpose of ened to cut if I was not cured within a given time. ghing, in which he excels; but I am sorry to say, that he has, through To this consolatory assurance of posthumous retri

anton of that most respectable name, been treading at humble

in the cops of Sr. Luzieri. A shipfull of his trophies was detained, bution, and a resolute refusal of Dr. Romanelli's d1 Indiere confested, at Constantinople, in 1810. I am most happy to prescriptions, I attributed my recovery. I had left mabird to late, that this was not in his boud;" that he was my last remaining English servant at Athens; my trybyed may as a painter, and that his noble patron disavows all connex-dragoman was as ill as myself, and my poor Ar kwab hun, except as an artist. If the error in the first and second edition naouts nursed me with an attention that would a the pen has given the noble lord a moment's pain I am very sorry for 1; have done honor to civilization. ✯ Crop han serted for years the name of his gent: and though 1 can

Bm cedrun mywell for sharing in the mistake of so many, I am

They had a variety of adventures; for the Mos

egg leng one of the first to be undeceived. Indeed, I have as much lem, Dervish, being a remarkably handsome man de in vencevicting this as I felt regret is stating it was always squabbling with the husbands of Athens

maika, the dull round-about of the Greeks, of whic
our Athenian party had so many specimens.
The Albanians in general (I do not mean the cul

insomuch that four of the principal Turks paid me a visit of remonstrance at the Convent, on the subject of his having taken a woman from the bathwhom he had lawfully bought, however-a thing tivators of the earth in the provinces, who hav quite contrary to etiquette. also that appellation, but the mountaineers), hav Basili, also, was extremely gallant among his own a fine cast of countenance; and the most beautifu persuasion, and had the greatest veneration for the women I ever beheld, in stature and in features, w church, mixed with the highest contempt of church-saw levelling the road broken down by the torrent men, whom he cuffed upon occasion in a most het- between Delvinachi and Libochabo. Their manne erodox manner. Yet he never passed a church of walking is truly theatrical; but this strut i without crossing himself; and I remember the risk probably the effect of the capote, or cloak, depend he ran in entering St. Sophia, in Stambol, because ing from one shoulder. Their long hair remind it had once been a place of his worship. On remon- you of the Spartans, and their courage in desultory strating with him on his inconsistent proceedings, warfare is unquestionable. Though they have som he invariably answered, "our church is holy, our cavalry amongst the Gegdes, never saw a good priests are thieves;" and then he crossed himself Arnaout horseman; my own preferred the English as usual, and boxed the ears of the first "papas saddles, which, however, they could never keep who refused to assist in any required operation, as But on foot they are not to be subdued by fatigue. was always found to be necessary where a priest had any influence with the Cogia Bashi of his village. Indeed, a more abandoned race of miscreants cannot exist than the lower order of the Greek clergy.

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12.

and pass'd the barren spot, Where sad Penelope o'erlook'd the wave. Stanza xxxix. lines 1 and 2.

Ithica.

13.

Actium, Lepanto, fatal Trafalgar.

Stanza xl. line 5.

Actium and Trafalgar need no further mention The battle of Lepanto, equally bloody and consid erable, but less known, was fought in the Gulf o Patras. Here the author of Don Quixote lost his

left hand.

When preparations were made for my return, my Albanians were summoned to receive their pay. Basili took his with an awkward show of regret at my intended departure, and marched away to his quarters, with his bag of piastres. I sent for Dervish, but for some time he was not to be found; at last he entered, just as Signor Logotheti, father to the ci-devant Anglo-consul of Athens, and some other of my Greek acquaintances, paid me a visit. Dervish took the money, but on a sudden dashed it to the ground; and clasping his hands, which he raised to his forehead, rushed out of the room, weeping bitterly. From that moment to the hour of my embarkation, he continued his lamentations, and all our efforts to console him only produced this answer, “Má þeivet,” “He leaves me." Signor LoLeucadia, now Santa Maura. From the promon theti, who never wept before for anything less than tory (the Lover's Leap) Sappho is said to hav. the loss of a para, melted; the padre of the con- thrown herself. vent, my attendants, my visitors and I verily believe that even Sterne's "foolish fat scullion would have left her 'fish-kettle," to sympathize with the unaffected and unexpected sorrow of this barbarian.

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14.

And hail'd the last resort of fruitless love.
Stanza xli. line.

15.

-many a Roman chief and Asian king. Stanza xlv. line 4.

16.

It is said, that on the day previous to the battl For my own part, when I remembered that, a of Actium, Anthony had thirteen kings at his levee short time before my departure from England, a noble and most intimate associate had excused himself from taking leave of me because he had to attend a relation to a millineis," I felt no less surprised than humiliated by the present occurrence and the past recollection.

Look where the second Cæsar's trophies rose ! Stanza xlv. line 6. Nicopolis, whose ruins are most extensive, is a some distance from Actium, where the wall of the Hippodrome survives in a few fragments.

17.

-Archerusia's lake.

18.

That Dervish would leave me with some regret was to be expected; when master and man have been scrambling over the mountains of a dozen provinces together, they are unwilling to separate; but his present feelings, contrasted with his native ferocity, improved my opinion of the human heart. Stanza xlvii. line 1. I believe this almost feudal fidelity is frequent among them. One day, on our journey over Par- According to Pouqueville the lake of Yanina nassus, an Englishman in my service gave him a but Pouqueville is always out. push in some dispute about the baggage, which he unluckily mistook for a blow; he spoke not, but sat down, leaning his head upon his hands. Fereseeing the consequences, we endeavored to explain away the affront, which produced the following answer-I have been a robber; I am a soldier; no captain ever struck me; you are my master, I man there is an incorrect account in Pouqueville'i have eaten your bread, but by that bread! (an usual Travels. oath) had it been otherwise, I would have stabbed the dog your servant, and gone to the mountains." So the affair ended, but from that day forward he never thoroughly forgave the thoughtless fellow who insulted him.

Dervish excelled in the dance of his country, conjectured to be a remnant of the ancient Pyrrhic: be that as it may, it is manly, and requires wonderful agility. It is very distinct from the stupid Ro

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20.

Monastic Zitza, &c.

As a specimen of the Albanian or Arnaout dialect of the Illyric, I here insert two of their most pop Stanza xlviii. line 1. ular choral songs, which are generally chanted in dancing by men or women indiscriminately. The The convent and village of Zitza are four hours' first words are merely a kind of chorus without journey from Joannina, or Yanina, the capital of meaning, like some in our own and all other the Pachalick. In the valley of the river Kalamas languages. (once the Acheron) flows, and not far from Zitza formas a fine cataract. The situation is perhaps the finest in Greece, though the approach to Delvinachi Bo, Bo, Bo, Bo, Bo, Bo, and parts of Acarnania and Etolia may contest the Naciarura, popuso. palm. Delphi, Parnassus, and, in Attica, even

Cape Colonna and Port Raphti, are very inferior;

1.

2.

as also every scene in Ionia, or the Troad; I am Naciarura na civin
almost inclined to add the approach to Constanti-Ha penderini ti hin.
nople; but from the different features of the last,
a comparison can hardly be made.

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Stanza lv. line 2.

3.

Ha pe uderi escrotini
Ti vin ti mar servetini.

4.

Caliriote me surme
Ea ha pe pse dua tive.

5.

Buo, Bo, Bo, Bo, Bo,
Gi
egem spirta esimiro.
6.

Caliriote vu le funde
Ede vete tunde tunde.

7.

Caliriote me surme
Ti mi put e poi mi le.

8.

Se ti puta citi mora
Si mi ri ni veti udo gia.

9.

Va la ni il che cadale

10.

The river Laos was full at the time the author Celo more, more celo. passed it; and immediately above Tepalen, was to the eye as wide as the Thames at Westminster; at least in the opinion of the author and his fellow- Plu hari ti tirete traveller, Mr. Hobhouse. In the summer it must Plu huron cia pra seti. be much narrower. It certainly is the finest river in the Levant; neither Achelous, Alpheus, Acheron, Schamander, nor Cayster, approached it in breadth a beauty.

27.

And fellow-countrymen have stood aloof.
Stanza lxvi line 8.

Alluding to the wreckers of Cornwall

28.

the red wine circling fast. Stanza lxxi. line 2. The Albanian Mussulmans do not abstain from wine. and indeed very few of the others.

29.

Each Palikar his sabre from him cast. Stanza Ixxi. line 7. Palikar, shortened when addressed to a single person from Пaixaot, a general name for a soldier mongst the Greeks and Albanese who speak Romaic-it means properly "a lad."

30.

While thus in concert, &c.

Stanza lxxii. line last.

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The last stanza would puzzle a commentator; the men have certainly buskins of the most beautiful texture, but the ladies (to whom the above is supposed to be addressed) have nothing under their little yellow boots and slippers but a well-turned and sometimes very white ankle. The Arnaout girls are much handsomer than the Greeks, and their dress is far more picturesque. They preserve their shape much longer also, from being always in the open air. It is to be observed, that the Arnaout is not a written language; the words of this song, therefore, as well as the one which follows, are spelt according to their pronunciation. They are copied by one who speaks and understands the dialect perfectly, and who is a native of Athens.

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