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XXI.

XXVII. The moon is up; by Heaven, a lovely eve!

More blest the life of godly Eremite, Long streams of light o'er dancing waves expand; Such as on lonely Athos may be seen, Now lads on shore may sigh, and maids believe: Watching at eve upon the giant height, Such be our fate when we return to land !

Which looks o'er waves so blue, skies so serene, Meantime some rude Arion's restless hand

That he who there at such an hour hath been, Wakes the brisk harmony that sailors love:

Will wistful linger on that hallow'd spot; A circle there of merry listeners stand,

Then slowly tear him from the witching scene, Or to some well-known measure featly move,

Sigh forth one wish that such had been his lot, Thoughtless, as if on shore they still were free to Then turn to hate a world he had almost forgot. rove. XXII.

XXVIIT. Through Calpe's straits survey the steepy shore; Pass we the long, unvarying course, the track Europe and Afric, on each other gaze !

Oft trod, that never leaves a trace behind; Lands of the dark-eyed Maid and dusky Moor, Pass we the calm, the gale, the change, the tack, Alike beheld beneath pale Hecate's blaze:

And each well-known caprice of wave and wind; How softly on the Spanish shore she plays,

Pass we the joys and sorrows sailors find, Disclosing rock, and slope, and forest brown,

Cooped in their winged sea-girt citadel; Distinct, though darkening with her waning phase : The foul, the fair, the contrary, the kind, But Mauritania's giant-shadows frown,

As breezes rise and fall, and billows swell, From mountain-cliff to coast descending sombre Till on soine jocund inorn-lo, land! and all is well. down. XXIII.

XXIX. 'Tis night, when Meditation bids us feel

But not in silence pass Calypso's isles,*

The sister tenants of the middle deep;
We once have loved, though love is at an end:
The heart, lone mourner of its baffled zeal,

There for the weary still a haven smiles,
Though friendless now, will dream it had a friend.

Though the fair goddess long hath ceased to weep, Who with the weight of years would wish to bend,

And o'er her cliffs a fruitless watch to keep When Youth itself survives young Love and joy?

For him who dared prefer a mortal bride: Alas! when mingling souls forget to blend,

Here, too, his boy essay'd the dreadful leap Death hath but little left him to destroy!

Stern Mentor urged from high to yonder tide; Ah, happy years! once more who would not be a

While thus of both bereft, the nymph-queen doubly boy?

sigh'd. XXIV.

XXX. Thus bending o'er the vessel's laving side,

Her reign is past, her gentle glories gone :

But trust not this; too easy youth, beware! To gaze on Dian's wave-reflected sphere,

A mortal sovereign holds her dangerous throne, The soul forgets her schemes of Hope and Pride, And Aies unconscious o'er each backward year.

And thou may'st find a new Calypso there.

Sweet Florence ! could another ever share
None are so desolate but something dear,
Dearer than self, possesses or possess'd

This wayward, loveless heart, it would be thine:

But check'd by every tie, I may not dare
A thought, and claims the homage of a tear;
A flashing pang! of which the weary breast

To cast a worthless offering at thy shrine,
Would still, albeit in vain, the heavy heart divest.

Nor ask so dear a breast to feel one pang for mine. XXV.

XXXI. To sit on rocks, to muse o'er flood and fell,

Thus Harold deem'd, as on that lady's eye To slowly trace the forest's shady scene,

He look'd, and met its beam without a thought, Where things that own not man's dominion dwell,

Save Admiration glancing harmless by: And mortal foot hath ne'er or rarely been;

Love kept aloof, albeit not far remote, To climb the trackless mountain all unseen,

Who knew his votary often lost and caught, With the wild flock that never needs a fold;

But knew him as his worshipper no more, Alone o'er steeps and foaining falls to lean:

And ne'er again the boy his bosom sought :

Since now he vainly urged him to adore,
This is not solitude; 'tis but to hold
Converse with Nature's charms, and view her stores

Well deem'd the little god his ancient sway was o'er. unrollid.

XXXII.
XXVI.

Fair Florence found, in sooth with some amaze, But 'midst the crowd, the hum, the shock of men,

One who, 'twas said, still sigh'd to all he saw, To hear, to see, to feel, and to possess,

Withstand, unmoved, the lustre of her gaze, And roam along, the world's tired denizen,

Which others hail'd with real or mimic awe, With none who bless us, none whom we can bless;

Their hope, their doom, their punishment, their Minions of splendour shrinking from distress! None that, with kindred consciousness endued,

All that gay Beauty from her bondsinen claims: If we were not, would seem to smile the less Of all that flatter'd, follow'd, sought, and sued : his is to be alone; this, this is solitude !

* Goza is said to have been the island of Calypso.

law;

And much she marvell'd that a youth so raw

On thee, thou rugged nurse of savage men! Nor felt, nor feign'd at least, the oft-told flames, The cross descends, thy minarets arise, Which, though sometimes they frown, yet rarely anger And the pale crescent sparkles in the glen, dames.

Through many a cypress grove within each city's XXXIII.

ken. Little knew she that seeming marble heart,

XXXIX. Now mask'd by silence or withheld by pride, Childe Harold saild, and pass'd the barren spot Was not unskilful in the spoiler's art,

Where sad Penelope o'erlook'd the wave ;* And spread its snares licentious far and wide; And onward view'd the mount, not yet forgot, Nor from the base pursuit had turn'd aside,

The lover's refuge, and the Lesbian's grave. As long as aught was worthy to pursue:

Dark Sappho I could not verse immortal save But Harold on such arts no more relied ;

That breast imbued with such immortal fire ? And had he doted on those eyes so blue,

Could she not live who life eternal gave? Yet never would he join the lover's whining crew. If life eternal may await the lyre,

That only Heaven to which Earth's children may XXXIV.

aspire. Not much he kens, I ween, of woman's breast,

XL.
Who thinks that wanton thing is won by sighs : 'Twas on a Grecian autumn's gentle eve,
What careth she for hearts when once possess'd ?

Childe Harold hail'd Leucadia's cape afar;t Do proper homage to thine idol's eyes,

A spot he long d to see, nor cared to leave: But not too humbly, or she will despise

Oft did he mark the scenes of vanish'd war, Thee and thy suit, though told in moving tropes;

Actium, Lepanto, fatal Trafalgar: Disguise even tenderness, if thou art wise ;

Mark them unmoved, for he would not delight Brisk Confidence still best with woman copes; (Born beneath some remote inglorious star) Pique her and soothe in turn, soon Passion crowns

In themes of bloody fray, or gallant fight, thy hopes.

But loath'd the bravo's trade, and laugh'd at martial XXXV.

wight. 'Tis an old lesson: Time approves it true,

XLI.
And those who know it best deplore it most ;
When all is won that all desire to woo,

But when he saw the evening star above

Leucadia's far-projecting rock of woe, The paltry prize is hardly worth the cost :

And haild the last resort of fruitless love, Youth wasted, minds degraded, honour lost,

He felt, or deem'd he felt, no common glow: These are thy fruits, successful Passion ! these !

And as the stately vessel glided slow If, kindly cruel, early hope is crost,

Beneath the shadow of that ancient mount, Still to the last it rankles, a disease,

He watct.'d the billows' melancholy flow,
Not to be cured when Love itself forgets to please.

And, sunk albeit in thought as he was wont.
XXXVI.

More placid seem'd his eye, and smooth his pallid Away! por let me loiter in my song,

front. For we have many a mountain path to tread,

XLII. And many a varied shore to sail along,

Morn dawns; and with it stern Albania's hills, By pensive Sadness, not by Fiction, led

Dark Suli's rocks, and Pindus' inland peak, Cliines, fair withal as ever mortal head

Robed half in mist, bedew'd with snowy rills, Imagined in its little schemes of thought;

Array'd in many a dun and purple streak, Or e'er in new Utopias were ared,

Arise ; and, as the clouds along them break, To teach man what he might be, or he ought ; Disclose the dwelling of the mountaineer; If that corrupted thing could ever such be taught. Here roams the wolf, the eagle whets his beak,

Birds, beasts of prey, and wilder men appear, XXXVII.

And gathering storms around convulse the closing Dear Nature is the kindest mother still ;

year. Though always changing, in her aspect mild:

XLIII. From her bare bosom let me take my fill,

Now Harold felt himself at length alone, Her never-weaned, though not her favour'd child.

And bade to Christian tongues a long adieu : Oh! she is fairest in her features wild,

Now he adventured on a shore unknown, Where nothing polish'd dares pollute her path :

Which all admire, but many dread to view: To me by day or night she ever smild,

His breast was arm'd gainst fate, his wants were Though I have mark'd her when none other hath,

few : And sought her inore and more, and loved her best in wrath. XXXVIII.

. Ithaca. Land of Albania! where Iskander rose ;

| Leucadia, now Santa Maura. From the promon

tory (the Lover's Leap) Sappho is said to have thrown Theme of the young, and beacon of the wise,

herself. And he his namesake, whose oft-baffled foes

Actium and Trafalgar need no further mention. Shrunk from his deeds of chivalrous emprise:

The battle of Lepanto, equally bloody and consider

able, but less known, was fought in the gulf of Patras. Land of Albania I let me bend mine eyes

Here the author of Don Quixote lost his left hand.

Peril he sought not, but ne'er shrank to meet :

XLVIII.
The scene was savage, but the scene was new; Monastic Zitza ! from thy shady brow,
This made the ceaseless toil of travel sweet,

Thou small, but favour'd spot of holy ground ! Beat back keen winter's blast, and welcomed

Where'er we gaze, around, above, below, summer's heat.

What rainbowtints, what magic charms are found! XLIV.

Rock, river, forest, mountain all abound, Here the red cross, for still the cross is here,

And bluest skies that harmonize the whole : Though sadly scoff'd at by the circumcised,

Beneath, tha distant torrent's rushing sound Forgets that pride to pamper'd priesthood dear, Tells where the volumed cataract doth roll Churchman and votary alike despised.

Between those hanging rocks, that shock yet please Foul Superstition ! howsoe'er disguised,

the soul. Idol, saint, virgin, prophet, crescent, cross,

XLIX.
For whatsoever syinbol thou art prized,
Thou sacerdotal gain, but general loss!

Amidst the grove that crowns yon tufted hill,

Which, were it not for many a mountain nigh Who from true worship's gold can separate thy

Rising in lofty ranks, and loftier still, dross?

Might well itself be deem'd of dignity,
XLV.

The convent's white walls glisten fair on high ;
Ambracia's gulf behold, where once was lost Here dwells the caloyer et nor rude is he,
A world for woman, lovely, harinless thing!

Nor niggard of his cheer: the passer-by In yonder rippling bay, their naval host

Is welcome still; nor heedless will he flee Did many a Roman chief and Asian king*

From hence, if he delight kind Nature's sheen to see.
To doubtful conflict, certain slaughter, bring :
Look where the second Cæsar's trophies rose,

L.
Now, like the hands that reard them, withering; Here in the sultriest season let him rest,
Imperial anarchs, doubling human woes !

Fresh is the green beneath those aged trees; GOD I was thy globe ordain'd for such to win and Here winds of gentlest wing will fan his breast, lose ?

From heaven itself he may inhale the breeze : XLVI.

The plain is far beneath-oh! let him seize From the dark barriers of that rugged clime,

Pure pleasure while he can ; the scorching ray Even to the centre of Illyria's vales,

Here pierceth not, impregnate with disease : Childe Harold pass'd o'er many a mount sublime,

Then let his length the loitering pilgrim lay, Through lands scarce noticed in historic tales : And gaze, untired, the morn, the noon, the eve away. Yet in famed Attica such lovely dales

LI. Are rarely seen ; nor can fair Tempe boast

Dusky and huge, enlarging on the sight, A charm they know not; loved Parnassus fails,

Nature's volcanic amphitheatre, Though classic ground and consecrated most,

Chimera's alps extend from left to right: To match some spots that lurk within this lowering

Beneath, a living valley seems to stir ; coast.

Flocks play, trees wave, streams flow, the moun. XLVII.

tain fir He pass'd bleak Pindus, Acherusia's lake, I

Nodding above; behold black Acheron ! And left the primal city of the land,

Once consecrated to the sepulchre. And onwards did his further journey take

Pluto ! if this be hell I look upon, Togreet Albania's chief, whose dread commande

Close shamed Elysium's gates, my shade shall seek Is lawless law; for with a bloody hand

for none. He sways a nation, turbulent and bold :

LII. Yet here and there some daring mountain-band

Ne city's towers pollute the lovely view; Disdain his power, and from their rocky hold

Unseen is Yanina, though not remote, Hurl their defiance far, nor yield, unless to gold.||

Veild by the screen of hills: here men are few,

Scanty the hamlet, rare the lonely cot; * It is said that, on the day previous to the battle of Actium, Antony had thirteen kings at his levée.

+ Nicopolis, whose ruins are most extensive, is at * The convent and village of Zitza are four hours some distance from Actium, where the wall of the journey from Joannina, or Yanina,. the capital of the Hippodrome survives in a few fragments. These pachalic. In the valley the river Kalamas (once the ruins are large masses of brickwork, the bricks of Acheron) flows, and not far from Zitza forms a fine which are joined by interstices of mortar, as large as cataract. The situation is perhaps the finest in Greece, the bricks themselves, and equally durable.

though the approach to Delvinachi and parts of According to Pouqueville, the lake of Yanina : Acarnania and Ætolia may contest the pain. Delphi, but Pouqueville is always out.

Parnassus, and, in Attica, even Cape Colonna and The celebrated Ali Pacha. Of this extraordinary Port Raphti, are very inferior; as also every scene in man there is an incorrect account in Pouqueville's Ionia, or the Troad: I am almost inclined to add, the Travels.

approach to Constantinople; but, from the different | Five thousand Suliotes, among the rocks and in features of the last, compa on can hardly be made. the castle of Suli, withstood thirty thousand Alba- + The Greek monks are so called. nians for eighteen years: the castle at last was taken The Chimariot mountains appear to have been by bribery." In this contest there were several acts volcanic. performed not unworthy of the better days of Greece. Now called Kalamas,

But, peering down each precipice, the goat Circled the wide-extending court below; Browseth: and, pensive o'er his scatter'd flock, Above, strange groups adorn'd the corridore ; The little shepherd in his white capotc

And ofttimes through the area's echoing door, Doth lean his boyish form along the rock,

Some high-capp'd Tartar spurr'd his steed away: Or in his cave awaits the tempest's short-lived shock. The Turk, the Greek, the Albanian, and the Moor,

Here mingled in their inany-hued array,
LIII.

While the deep war-drum's sound announced the Oh! where, Dodona, is thine aged grove,

close of day. Prophetic fount, and oracle divine ?

LVIII. What valley echoed the response of Jove?

The wild Albanian kirtied to his knee. What trace reinaineth of the Thunderer's shrine ?

With shawl-girt head and ornamented gun, All, all forgotten--and shall man repine

And gold-embroider'd garments, fair to see : That his frail bonds to fleeting life are broke?

The crimson-scarfed men of Macedon; Cease, fool! the fate of gods may well be thine:

The Delhi with his cap of terror on, Wouldst thou survive the marble or the oak,

And crooked glaive; the lively, supple Greek ; When nations, tongues, and worlds must sink

And swarthy Nubia's mutilated son; beneath the stroke?

The bearded Turk, that rarely deigns to speak,
LIV.

Master of all around, too potent to be meek,
Epirus' bounds recede, and mountains fail;
Tired of up-gazing still, the wearied eye

LIX.
Reposes gladly on as smooth a vale

Are mix'd conspicuous : some recline in groups, As ever Spring yclad in grassy dye:

Scanning the motley scene that varies round; Even on a plain no humble beauties lie,

There some grave Moslem to devotion stoops, Where some bold river breaks the long expanse, And some that smoke, and some that play are found; And woods along the banks are waving high, Here the Albanian proudly treads the ground. Whose shadows in the glassy waters dance,

Half-whispering there the Greek is heard to prate; Or with the moonbeam sleep in midnight's solemn Hark! from the mosque the nightly solemn sound, trance.

The Muezzin's call doth shake the minaret,
LV.

• There is no god but God !-to prayer-lo! God is The sun had sunk behind vast Tomerit,

great!

LX.
The Laos wide and fierce came roaring by ;
The shades of wonted night were gathering yet,

Just at this season Ramazani's fast
When, down the steep banks winding warily Through the long day its penance did maintain.
Childe Harold saw, like meteors in the sky,

But when the lingering twilight hour was past, The glittering minarets of Tepalen,

Revel and feast assumed the rule again : Whose walls o'crlook the stream; and drawing Now all was bustie, and the menial train nigh,

Prepared and spread the plenteous board within ; He heard the busy hum of warrior-men

The vacant gallery now seem'd made in vain, Swelling the breeze that sigh'd along the lengthen

But from the chambers came the mingling din, ing glen.

As page and slave anon were passing out and in. LVI.

LXI. He pass'd the sacred Haram's silent tower,

Here woman's voice is never heard : apart And underneath the wide o'erarching gate

And scarce permitted, guarded, veild, to move, Survey'd the dwelling of this chief of power, Where all around proclaim'd his high estate.

She yields to one her person and her heart,

Tanied to her cage, nor feels a wish to rove; Amidst no common pomp the despot sate, While busy preparation shook the court;

For, not unhappy in her master s love,

And joyful in a mother's gentlest cares, Slaves, eunuchs, soldiers, guests, and sa:tons wait;

Blest cares! all other feelings far above! Within, a palace, and without a fort,

Herself more sweetly rears the babe she bears, Here men of every clime appear to make resort.

Who never quits the breast, no meaner passion L.VII.

shares. Richly caparison'd, a ready row

LXII. Of armed horse, and many a warlike store,

In marble-paved pavilion, where a spring

Of living water from the centre rose, • Albanese cloak.

Whose bubbling did a genial freshness fling, # Anciently Mount Tomarus.

And soft voluptuous couches breathed repose, * The river Laos was full at the tiine the author passed it ; and, immediately above Tepaleen, was to

Ali reclined, a man of war and woes : the eye as wide as the Thames at Westminster-at

Yet in his lineaments ye cannot trace, least in the opinion of the author and his fellow- While Gentleness her milder radiance throws traveller. In the summer it must be much narrower It certainly is the finest river in the Levant: neither

Along that aged venerable face, Achelous, Alpheus, Acheron, Scarander, nor Cayster, The deeds that lurk beneath, and stain hi:21 wiih dis. approached it in breadth or beauty.

grace.

LXIII.

LXVIII. It is not that yon hoary lengthening beard

Vain fear! the Suliotes stretch'd the welcome Ill suits the passions which belong to youth:

hand, Love conquers age-so Hafiz hath averr'd,

Led them o'er rocks and past the dangerous So sings the Teian, and he sings in sooth

swamp, But crimes that scorn the tender voice of ruth, Kinder than polish'd slaves, though not so b!and, Beseening all men ill, but most the man

And piled the hearth, and wrung their garments In years, have mark'd hiin with a tiger's tooth:

damp, Blood follows blood, and through their mortal And fill'd the bowl, and trimm'd the cheerful span,

lamp, In bloodier acts conclude those who with blood And spread their fare: though homely, all they began.

had: LXIV.

Such conduct bears Philanthropy's rare stamp'Mid many things most new to ear and eye,

To rest the weary and to soothe the sad, The pilgrim rested here his weary feet,

Doth lesson happier men, and shames at least the

bad.
And gazed around on Moslem luxury,
Till quickly wearied with that spacious seat

LXIX
Of Wealth and Wantonness, the choice retreat It came to pass, that when he did address
Of sated Grandeur from the city's noise :

Himself to quit at length this mountain land,
And were it humbler, it in sooth were sweet;

Combined marauders half-way barr'd egress, But Peace abhorreth artificial joys,

And wasted far and near with glaive and brand ; And Pleasure, leagued with Pomp, the zest of both And therefore did he take a trusty band destroys.

To traverse Acarnania's forest wide,
LXV.

In war well season'd, and with labours tann'd, Fierce are Albania's children, yet they lack

Till he did greet white Achelous' tide, Not virtues, were those virtues more mature.

And from his further bank Ætolia's wolds espied. Where is the foe that ever saw their back? Who can so well the toil of war endure ?

LXX. Their native fastnesses not more secure

Where lone Utraikey forms its circling cove, Than they in doubtful time of troublous need : And weary waves retire to gleam at rest, Their wrath how deadly! but their friendship How brown the foliage of the green hill's grove, sure,

Nodding at midnight o'er the calm bay's breast, When Gratitude or Valour bids them bleed,

As winds come whispering lightly from the west, Unshaken rushing on where'er their chief may lead. Kissing, not ruffling, the blue deep's serene:

Here Harold was received a welcoine guest; LXVI.

Nor did he pass unmoved the gentle scene, Childe Harold saw them in their chieftain's För many a joy could he from night's soft presence tower,

glean. Thronging to war in splendour and success;

LXXI. And after view'd them, when, within their power, On the smooth shore the night-fires brightly Himself awhile the victim of distress;

blazed, That saddening hour when bad men hotlier press :

The feast was done, the red wine circling fast,* But these did shelter him beneath their roof,

And he that unawares had there ygazed When less barbarians would have cheer'd him

With gaping wonderment had stared aghast; less,

For ere night's midmost, stillest hour was past, And fellow-countrymen have stood alooft

The native revels of the troop began; In aught that tries the heart how few withstand the Each Palikart his sabre from him cast, proof!

And bounding hand in hand, man link'd to man, LXVII.

Yelling their uncouth dirge, long daunced the It chanced that adverse winds once drove his kirtled clan. bark

LXXII. Full on the coast of Suli's shaggy shore,

Childe Harold at a little distance stood, When all around was desolate and dark;

And view'd, but not displeased, the revelrie, To land was perilous, to sojourn more;

Yor hated harınless mirth, however rude: Yet for a while the mariners forbore,

In sooth, it was no vulgar sight to see Dubious to trust where treachery might lurk: Their barbarous, yet their not indecent, glee: At length they ventured forth, though doubting

And as the flames along their faces gleam'd, sore

Their gestures nimble, dark eyes flashing free, That those who loathe alike the Frank and Turk Might once again renew their ancient butcher * The Albanian Mussulmans do not abstain from work.

wine, and indeed very few of the others.

+ Palikar,' a general name for a soldier amongst

the Greeks and Albanese who speak Romaic: it * Alluding to the wreckers of Cornwall. means, properly, 'a lad.'

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