Imágenes de página
PDF
ePub

MOUNTAINS.

RIVERS AND STREAMS.

Rivers and Streams.-The rivers and streams lying within the state of Vermont are very numerous, but small. They, in Mountains, and their courses are short and generally rapid. Connecticut river washes the whole eastern border of the state, but belongs to New Hampshire, the western margin of that stream forming the boundary line between New Hampshire and Vermont. The Connecticut receives the waters from 3,700 square miles of our territory. It receives from Ver

the intervening portions are so high and steep as not to admit of roads being made over them, with the exception of that portion lying between the Lamoille and Mis-most cases, originate among the Green sisco. This part of the Green Mountains presents some of the most lofty summits in the state; particularly the Nose and Chin in Mansfield, and Camel's Hump in Huntington. These, together with other important mountains and summits in the state, are exhibited in the foregoing table and cut, and will also be described in the Gazetteer, under their respective names. The sides, and, in most cases, the sum-mont, besides numerous smaller streams, mits of the mountains in Vermont, are covered with evergreens, such as spruce, hemlock and fir. On this account the French, being the first civilized people who visited this part of the world, early gave to them the name of Verd Mont, or Green Mountain; and when the inhabi-phremagog lake. Missisco, Lamoille, tants of the New Hampshire Grants assumed the powers of government, in 1777, they adopted this name, contracted by the omission of the letter d, for the name of the new state."

*This name is said to have been adopted upon the recommendation of Dr. Thomas Young-(see

part 2d, page 106.) The following account of the christening of the Green Mountains, is given by the Rev. Samuel Peters in his life of the Rev. Hugh Peters, published at New York in 1807.

of

"Verd-Mont was a name given to the Green Mountains in October, 1763, by the Rev. Dr. Peters, the first clergyman who paid a visit to the 30,000 settlers in that country, in the presence Col. Taplin, Col. Willes, Col. Peters, Judge Peters and many others, who were proprietors of a large number of townships in that colony. The ceremony was performed on the top of a rock standing on a high mountain, then named Mount Pisgah because it provided to the company a clear sight of lake Champlain at the west, and of Connecticut river at the east, and overlooked all the trees and hills in the vast wilderness at the north and south. The baptism was performed in the following manner: Priest Peters stood on the pinnacle of the rock, when he received a bottle of spirits from Col. Taplin; then haranguing the company with a short history of the infant settlement, and the prospect of its becoming an impregnable barrier between the British colonies on the south and the late colonies of the French on the north, which might be returned to their late own ers for the sake of governing America by the different powers of Europe, he continued, We have here met upon the rock Etam, standing on Mount Pisgah,which makes a part of the everlasting hill the spine of Asia, Africa and America,holding together the terrestrial bail, and dividing the Atlantic from the Pacific ocean-to dedicate and consecrate this extensive wilderness to God manifested in the flesh, and to give it a new name worthy of the Athenians and ancient Spartans,-which new name is Verd Mont, in token that her mountains and hills shall be ever green and shall never die.'

4

the waters of the eleven following rivers, viz: Wantasticook, or West, Saxton's, Williams', Black, Ottaquechy, White, Ompompanoosuc, Wait's, Wells', Passumpsic, and Nulhegan. Clyde, Barton and Black river run northerly into Mem

Winooski and Poultney river and Otter creek flow westerly into lake Champlain, and the Battenkill and Hoosic westerly into Hudson river. Deerfield river runs southerly from Vermont and falls into the Connecticut in Massachusetts; and the Coatacook and Pike river head in the north part of the state and run northerly into Canada, the former uniting with Massuippi river at Lenoxville and the latter falling into the head of Missisco bay. All these streams and many smaller ones will be described in the Gazetteer under their respective names.

No country in the world is better supplied with pure and wholesome water than Vermont. There are scarcely any farms in the state which are not well watered by springs, or brooks; and none, with the exception of those upon the islands in lake Champlain, which are not in the vicinity of one, or more, considerable mill stream. But while Vermont is so abundantly supplied with water, there is, probably, no part of our country in which so little stagnant water is found. The waters of the lakes and ponds are usually clear and transparent, and nearly all the springs and streams are brisk and lively. It is a common remark that the streams in this state have diminished very much in size, since the country began to be cleared and settled, and it is doubtless true to some extent. Many mills, which He then poured out the spirits and cast the bottle upon the rock Etam."

There is no doubt that the name Verd Mont had been applied to this range of mountains long previous to the above transaction, (if, indeed, it ever took place;) but we do not find that the name Verd Mont, or Vermont, was ever applied to the territory generally known as the New Hampshire Grants, previous to the declaration of the independence of the territory in January, 1777.

LAKES AND PONDS.

LAKE CHAMPLAIN.

formerly had an abundance, have ceased | state of New York, and more than half of to receive the necessary supply of water it within the limits of Vermont. It exduring a considerable portion of the year; tends in a straight line from south to and many mill sites, which were once north, 102 miles along the western bounthought valuable, have, from the same dary, from Whitehall to the 45th degree cause, become entirely useless. One of of latitude, and thence about 24 miles to the principal causes of this diminution of St. Johns in Canada, affording an easy our streams is supposed to be the cutting communication with that province and down of the forests, which formerly threw with New York. This lake is connected off immense quantities of vapor into the with Hudson river, at Albany, by a canal atmosphere, which was again precipitated 64 miles in length; so that the towns lyupon the earth in rain and snow. But it ing on the shores of Lake Champlain is believed that the quantity of water have direct communication by water with which annually passes off in our streams the cities of Troy, Albany, Hudson, and is not so much less than formerly as is New York, and, by means of the great generally imagined. Before the country western canal, with the great western was cleared, the whole surface of the lakes. The length of this lake from ground was deeply covered with leaves, south to north, measured in a straight line limbs, and logs, and the channels of all from one extremity to the other, and supthe smaller streams were much obstruct- posing it to terminate northerly at St. ed by the same. The consequence was, Johns, is 126 miles. Its width varies from that, when the snows dissolved in the one fourth of a mile to 13 miles, and the spring, or the rains fell in the summer, mean width is about 4 miles. This would the waters were retained among the give an area of 567 square miles, two leaves, or retarded by the other obstruc- thirds of which lie within the limits of tions, so as to pass off slowly, and the Vermont. The waters, which this lake streams were kept up, nearly uniform as receives from Vermont, are drained, by to size, during the whole year. But since rivers and other streams, from 4088 miles the country has become settled, and the of its territory. Its depth is generally obstructions, which retarded the water, sufficient for the navigation of the largest removed by freshets, when the snows vessels. It received its present name melt or the rains fall, the waters run off from Samuel Champlain, a French noblefrom the surface of the ground quickly, man, who discovered it in the spring of the streams are raised suddenly, run rap- 1609, and who died at Quebec in 1635, idly, and soon subside. In consequence and was not drowned in its waters, as has of the water being thus carried off more been often said." One of the names givrapidly, the streams would be smaller en to this lake by the aborigines is said to than formerly during a considerable part have been Caniaderi-Guarunte, signifying of the year, even though the quantity of the mouth or door of the country. If so, water be the same. It is a well known it was very appropriate, as it forms the fact that the freshets in Vermont are gate-way between the country on the St. more sudden and violent than when the Lawrence and that on the Hudson. The country was new. name of this lake in the Abenâqui tongue was Petawa-bouque, signifying alternate land and water, in allusion to the numerous islands and projecting points of land along the lake. Previous to the settlement of the country by Europeans, this lake had long been the thorough-fare between hostile and powerful Indian tribes, and its shores the scene of many a mortal conflict. And after the settlement, it continued the same in reference to the French and English colonies, and subsequently in reference to the English in Canada and the United States. In consequence of this peculiarity of its location, the name of Lake Champlain stands connected with some of the most interesting events in the annals of our country; and the transactions associated with the names of Ticonderoga, and Crown Point,

The waters of the lakes, ponds and streams are universally soft, miscible with soap, and in general free from foreign substances. And the same may be said of most the springs, particularly on the Green Mountains, and in that portion of the state lying east of these mountains. The waters of most of the springs and wells in the western part of the state are rendered hard and unsuitable for washing by the lime they hold in solution, and there are many springs which are highly impregnated with Epsom salts, and others containing iron, sulphuretted hydrogen, &c. These mineral springs will be described in another place.

Lakes and Ponds. Small lakes and ponds are found in all parts of Vermont, but there are no large bodies of water which lie wholly within the state. Lake Champlain lies between this state and the

* See Part II, p. 2. Spafford'sGaz. of N. Y., p. 98.

MEMPHREMAGOG LAKE.

and Plattsburgh, and many other places, united with the variety and beauty of the scenery, the neatness and accommodation of the steamboats, and the unrivalled excellency of their commanders, render a tour through this lake one of the most interesting and agreeable to the enlightened traveller. A historical account of the most important transactions upon Lake Champlain, together with some account of the navigation of the lake, and particularly of the steamboats which have been built upon it, will be found in part second, and a much more minute description of the lake under its name in part third.

BAYS, SWAMPS, ISLANDS, SOIL.

hall. Besides these there are several
sinaller bays lying along the east shore of
Lake Champlain, and a considerable bay
at the south end of Lake Memphremagog,
called South bay. Most of these bays
will be more particularly described under
their names in part third, and also some
of the most important bays lying along
the west shore of Lake Champlain, and
belonging to New York.

Swamps.-These are hardly of sufficient importance to deserve a separate notice. Though considerably numerous, they are, in general, of small extent, and, in many cases, have been, or may be Memphremagog lake is situated on the drained and converted into excellent north line of the state, and about midway lands. They are most common in the between lake Champlain and Connecticut northern and northeastern parts of the river. It extends from south to north, state. In the county of Essex are several and is nearly parallel with lake Cham- unsettled townships, which are said to be plain. It is 30 miles long, and the aver- made up of hills and mountains with age width about two miles. One third swamps lying between them, which renpart of this lake lies in Vermont; the oth-der them to a great extent incapable of er two thirds in Canada. The name of settlement. There is a considerable tract this lake in the Abenâqui tongue was of swampy land at the south end of MemMem-plow-bouque, signifying a large ex-phremagog lake, and another in Highgate panse of water. This, together with nu- about the mouth of Missisco river. When merous small lakes and ponds, which lie the country was new, there were many wholly within the state, will be described stagnant coves along the margin and in part third, either under their names, or among the islands of Lake Champlain, in the account of the towns in which they which, during the hotter parts of the sumare situated. There is abundant evidence mer, generated intermittent and bilious that most of our lakes and ponds were fevers. But, since the clearing of the formerly much more extensive than they country, these have been, to a consideraare at present, and that they have been ble extent, filled up, and, with the causes diminished, both by the deposit of earthy which produced them, those disorders matter brought in by the streams, and by have nearly disappeared. the deepening of the channels at their outlets; and there is also sufficient proof of the former existence of many ponds in this state, which have long since become dry land by the operation of the same causes. Several of these will be pointed out in the descriptions of the rivers in part third, particularly in the description of Winooski river, Barton river, &c.

Islands. The principal islands belonging to Vermont, are South Hero, North Hero, and La Motte. South Hero, called also Grand Island, is 13 miles long, and is divided into two townships, by the name of South Hero and Grand Isle. North Hero is about 11 miles long, but very narrow, and constitutes a township bearing the same name as the island. Isle la Motte lies westward of North Hero, and constitutes a township by the same name. A more particular account of these islands, and also a description of Juniper island and several others lying in Lake Champlain, will be found under their names in part third.

Bays.-The shores of Lake Champlain are indented by numerous bays, most of which are small and of little consequence. Missisco bay is the largest of these, and belongs principally to Vermont, lying between the townships of Alburgh and Highgate, and extending some distance into Canada. The other bays of Soil and Productions.-The soil of most consequence, lying along the east Vermont is generally a rich loam, but vashore of the lake and belonging to Ver-ries considerably according to the nature mont, are M'Quam bay in Swanton, Belamaqueen bay lying between St. Albans and Georgia, Mallets bay in Colchester, Burlington bay between Appletree point and Red Rocks point, Shelburne bay between Red Rocks point and Pottier's point, Button bay in Ferrisburgh, and about it by Dr. Dwight, Mr. Kendall, and other East bay between Westhaven and White-travellers and critics. But we use it, notwithstand

and compositions of the rocks in the dif
ferent parts of the state. Bordering our
lakes, ponds, and rivers, are considerable
tracts of rich and beautiful intervale*

*Intervale.

This word has not yet found a place in our dictionaries, and there has been much carping

[merged small][merged small][ocr errors][ocr errors][ocr errors][ocr errors][ocr errors][ocr errors][ocr errors]

SOIL AND PRODUCTIONS.

MEDICINAL SPRINGS.

the farmer who is saving and industrious seldom fails of having his barn filled with fodder for his horses, cattle and sheep, his granary with corn, wheat, rye, oats, peas and beans, and his cellar with potatoes, apples, and other esculent vegetables. A sufficient quantity of grain for the supply of the inhabitants might easily be raised in all parts of the state, yet the greater part of the lands are better adapted for grazing than for tillage. The hills and mountains, which are not arable on account of their steepness, or rocks, afford the best of pasturage for cattle and sheep. Of the fruits, nuts, berries, &c., which grow in Vermont, both wild and cultivated, a more particular account will be given in a subsequent chapter on the botany of the state.

lands, which consist of a dark, deep and fertile alluvial deposit. These intervales are level tracts lying but little higher than the ordinary height of the water in the streams, and are in most cases subject to being flooded, when the water is very high. They were, while in a state of nature, covered with a heavy growth of forest trees, such as oak, butternut, elm, buttonwood, walnut, ash, and some other kinds. Back of these flats were frequently others, elevated a few feet higher, and Covered with white pine. Still further back, the land rises, in most cases very gradually, into hills and upland plains, and the soil becomes harder and more gravelly, but very little diminished in richness and fertility. The timber upon these lands, which constitute the greater part of the state, was principally sugar Medicinal Springs.-There are in Vermaple, beech and birch, interspersed with mont springs which are more or less imbass, ash, elm, butternut, cherry, horn-pregnated with mineral, or gaseous subbeam, spruce and hemlock. And still fur- stances, but none which have yet acther back the lands rise into mountains, quired a very general or permanent celebwhich are in general timbered with ever-rity for their curative properties. Along greens, such as spruce, hemlock and fir. The loftiest mountains are generally rocky and the summits of some few of them consist of naked rock, with no other traces of vegetation than a few stinted shrubs and mosses; but they are, in general, thickly covered with timber to their very tops. Along the western part of the state, and bordering upon Lake Champlain, are extensive tracts of light sandy soil, which were originally covered with white, pitch and Norway pine, and in the northern part of the state, swamps are The medicinal properties of most of the numerous, which were well stored with waters in this state, which have acquired tamarack and white cedar. A more full any notoriety, are derived from gaseous account of the native vegetables found in and not from mineral substances. In difthis state will be given in a subsequent ferent towns in the northeastern part of chapter. Since the country has been the state, are springs of cold, soft and cleared, the soil has, in general, been clear water, which are strongly impreg found sufficiently free from stone to ad-nated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas,and mit of easy cultivation, and to be very said to resemble the Harrow Gate waters productive in corn, grain and grass. With-in England, and those of Ballcastle and out manuring the intervales usually produce large crops, and are easily cultivated, but these crops are liable, occasionally, to be destroyed by floods-the same agency which produces the fertility of the soil on which they grow. All parts are, however, sufficiently fertile amply to reward the labors of the husbandman, and ing, because it will express our meaning more briefly

the shore of Lake Champlain, in the counties of Addison and Rutland, the waters generally are impregnated with Epsom salts, (sulphate of magnesia). Some of the springs are so highly charged with these salts, in the dryer parts of the year, that a pail full of the water will produce a pound of the salts. They have been manufactured, for medicinal purposes, in some quantities, and, did the price of the article make it an object, they might be made here to almost any extent.

Castlemain in Ireland. These waters are found to be efficacious in scrofulous and many other cutaneous complaints, and the springs at Newbury, Tunbridge, Hardwick, &c., have been much resorted to by valetudinarians in their vicinity.

Of medicinal springs on the west side of the Green Mountains, those of Clarendon and Alburgh have acquired the greatand intelligibly to the greater part of our readers, est notoriety. It is now about 16 years than any other we could employ. It may be derived since the springs at Clarendon began to from inter-within, and vallis-a vale, or valley; be known beyond their immediate neighand in its specific signification, it denotes those allu-borhood. Since that time their reputavial flats, lying along the margins of streams, which have been, or occasionally are overflowed in consequence of the rising of the water. For the use of the word in this sense, we have the authority of Dr. Belknap and Dr. Williams, the historians of New Hampshire and Vermont, and other good writers.

tion has been annually extending, and the number of visiters increasing, till they have at length become a place of considerable resort for the afflicted from various

CLARENDON SPRINGS.

CLARENDON AND PLYMOUTH CAVES.

of the year, and water stands in the lowest parts of it at all seasons.

parts of the country. They are situated in a picturesque and beautiful region, 7 miles southwest from Rutland, and have, in their immediate vicinity, good accommo- base of a considerable mountain, on the The Plymouth caves are situated at the dations for 500 visiters. The waters are southwest side of Black river, and about found to be highly efficacious in affections 50 rods from that stream. They are exof the liver, dispepsia, urinary and all cu-cavations among the lime rock, which taneous complaints, rheumatism, invete- have evidently been made by running rate sore eyes, and many others, and they water. promise fair to go on increasing in noto- ered about the first of July, 1818, and on The principal cave was discovriety and usefulness. These waters differ the 10th of that month was thoroughly in their composition from any heretofore explored by the Author, who furnished known, but resemble most nearly the the first description of it, which was German Spa water. For their curative published shortly after in the Vermont properties they are believed to be indebted Journal at Windsor. The passage into wholly to the gases they contain. They this have been analyzed by Mr. Augustus A cavern is nearly perpendicular, about the size of a common well, and Hayes, of Roxbury, Mass., with the fol- 10 feet in depth. This leads into the first lowing results. One gallon, or 235 cubic room which is of an oval form, 30 feet inches of the water contained, long, 20 wide, and its greatest height about 15 feet. It appears as if partly filled up with loose stones, which had been thrown in at the mouth of the cave. From this to the second room is a broad sloping passage. This room is a little more than half as large as the first. The bottom of it is the lowest part of the cave, being about 25 feet below the surface of the ground, and is composed principally of loose sand, while the bottoms of all the other rooms are chiefly rocks and stones. The passage into the third room is 4 feet wide and 5 high, and the room is 14 feet long, 8 wide, and 7 high. The fourth room is 30 feet long, 12 wide, and 18 high, and the rocks, which form the sides, in

Carbonic acid gas
Nitrogen gas

Carbonate of Lime

Murate of Lime

Sulphate of Soda

Sulphate of Magnesia

[ocr errors]

46.16 cubic inch.
9.63 66
3.02 grains.

2.74 grs.

gas

One hundred cubic inches of the which was evolved from the water, con

sisted of

[ocr errors]

Carbonic acid gas 0.05 cubic inches. Oxygen gas 1.50 66 Nitrogen gas 98.45 66 The Alburgh springs do not differ materially from the springs at Newbury, Tunbridge, and other places in the northeastern part of the state, owing their med-cline towards each other and meet at the icinal properties principally to the sulphuretted hydrogen gas, which they con

tain.

top like the ridge of a house. The fifth room, very much resembling an oven in shape, is 10 feet long, 7 wide, and 4 high, Caves. There are no caves in Vermont and the passage into it from the third which will bear comparison with some of room is barely sufficient to admit a person the caverns found in other parts of the to crawl in. At the top of this room is a world, and yet we have several, which conical hole, 10 inches across at the base are deserving the attention of the curi- and extending 2 feet into the rock. From ous. Those at Clarendon, Plymouth and the north side of the second room are two Danby are the most interesting. The openings leading to the sixth and seventh, Clarendon cave is situated on the south-which are connected together, and each easterly side of a mountain in the westerly part of that town. The descent into it is through a passage 2 feet in diameter and 31 feet in length, and which makes an angle of 35 or 40° with the horizon. It then opens into a room 20 feet long, 12 wide, and 18 or 20 feet high. The floor, sides and roof of this room are all of solid rock, but very rough and uneven. From the north part of this room is a passage about 3 feet in diameter and 24 feet in length, but very rough and irregular, which leads to another room 20 feet wide, 30 feet long and 18 feet high. This room, being situated much lower than the first, is usually filled with water in the spring

about 15 feet long, 7 wide, and 5 high. From the seventh room is a narrow passage which extends northerly 15 or 16 feet into the rocks, and there appears to terminate. When discovered, the roof and sides of this cavern were beautifully ornamented with stalactites, and the bottom with corresponding stalagmites, but most of these have been rudely broken off and carried away by the numerous visiters. The temperature, both in winter and summer, varies little from 44°, which is about the mean temperature of the climate of Vermont in that latitude. A few

* Williams' History of Vermont, vol. 1, p. 29.

« AnteriorContinuar »