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animated face, is an object of no small attraction. They are not, it is true, so beautiful as our couptrywomen; but there is a fascination in the singularity, neatness, and display of their dress, and in the warmth and enthusiasm of their manners, which gives them a momentary charm over the modest and retiring graces to which we have been accustomed at home. I spent part of every evening while I remained at Malaga on the walk, and could have passed many more with pleasure. There the gravity of the Spaniard was not seen; every face was serene and cheerful, and the influence of a delightful climate and cloudless sky seemed to operate with the same pleasing effect upon all ages and conditions. Hilarity, pleasure, and complaisance, seemed to be the reigning deities; but suddenly, as the clock struck seven, and the convent bells rung for vespers, every smile' vanished, every accent was hushed, each head was uncovered, and each eye bent to the ground---a moment was spent in silent prayer, and every one resumed his gaiety. • The Spanish officers possess none of that dignity of appearance which one has reason to expect. The vulgarity of their appearance is only equalled by the meanness of their dress. Their coats are single breasted, and somewhat in the fashion of ours, but so short that the fore part extends but little below the breast, while a pair of long narrow skirts commence about the middle of the back, and extend barely to the hips. This is surmounted by an epaulet swung forward of the shoulder, and hanging lovsely by the button, The chapeau is enormously large; and the pantaloons are generally yellow nankeen, of all things in the world the meanest that a soldier can possibly wear. Upon the whole, their appearance is so ludicrous and so 'trifling, that I hardly knew whether to laugh at or to pity them.* The latter feeling, however, most fre
* It can scarcely fail to excite a smile of scorn, to see .this Yankee gentleman, who probably never saw a musket fired in anger, thus traducing a nation which for six years,“ bating no jot of heart or hope," opposed the armies of Napoleon, and submitted cheerfully to the severest sa'crifices, and which, let the pert American be told, produced the defender's of Zaragoza, Gerona, Figueras, &c. &c, &c. .
quently predominated---for who can behold the remains of ancient grandeur without respect! who can behold the decay and decrepitude of greatness without a feeling of regret? Every reader has been accustomed to associate the noblest and most romantic qualities with the name of a Spaniard. There was a time when the bistorian was proud to decorate his page with the records of their gallant achievements; and the poet kindled into enthusiasm when he contemplated their generous and chivalric spirit. Now their greatness has degenerated into imbecility; and it would be almost as difficult to find among them a single trace of the spirit of Gonsalvo or Cortes, as it would be to reanimate the clay of those departed heroes, or people the plains of Marathon.
September 16. This day was Sunday, and I spent the principal part of it on shore. During the morning, several of us visited the Cathedral, which is by far the most magnificent building I have ever seen. It is a very large edifice, supported by massy pillars, superbly ornamented. The exterior form of the building appears to be nearly square, but the inside of the chapel partakes of an oblong appearance. During the late invasion of Spain, Buonaparte is said to have taken several waggon loads of gold and silver from this church, and to have despoiled it of some of its richest ornaments; it still, however, contains a number of fine specimens of painting and sculpture, and the decorations generally, of which there is still a prufusion, are rich and tasty. The altar is placed exactly in the centre, and the area round it is unincumbered with seats; so that the devotee is at liberty to saunter about while he enjoys his devotional feelings. , The whole is surrounded by a chain of arched recesses, at the back of each of which is an admirable representation of one of the saints, or of some scene from sacred history. The entrance to these is guarded by a light railing, which is passed by means of a small gate. The immense size and gloominess of the building, the privacy of its recesses, and the manner in which they perform their devotions, are well calculated to recal to the mind the tales 'of romance. We easily conceive that
· here the lover might pour out his soul to his mistress, , or the assassin consult his vengeful employer.
We were conducted round by one of the boys be. longing to the church, who explained every thing to .us in Spanish, very clearly, no doubt, but none of us understood a word he said.'
Whether we understood him seemed to be but a minor consideration, and he dispatched the holy fathers with a rapidity that could only be acquired by long practice. He seemed to dwell with particular pleasure on the histories of the different saints, whose images were assembled around us in considerable force; and to the merits of each of whom we were obliged to listen and assent.
His discourse was accompanied by a number of wise shrugs, emphatic actions, and I dare say, sage lemarks, but of what they were the world will probably ever remain in ignorance, as I shall never tell, and I am sure nobody else will discover. There were a number of devotees, principally females, kneeling before the images of our Saviour, and of the different saints. Some of these were silently and assiduously employed in counting their beads, some were praying in an audible voice, and some in indistinct murmurs. There are several small rooms or closets connected with the church, which are appropriated to confession. The door of one of these being open, I observed a priest in the attitude of listening to the confession of a female penitent, who was kneeling beside him. I was immediately warned that it was improper and highly offensive to look into the confessional. It was, however, too late, if there was any secret in the business, for i saw it all. The room was hung with black---in the middle was a large chair---in the chair was a priest--and along-side of the priest knelt a little lady dressed in black---the priest leaned his head upon his hand, . and looked very wise---and the lady was talking to the priest; if I had looked a month I could have seen no more.
Having examined every thing that was to be seen, and had it explained to us by our little novice in Spanish, we were about to take our leave, when our young conductor pronounced the talismanic word,
money, in very plain English, and accompanied by gestures so energetic and expressive, as to convince us, in the art of begging, at least, he was no novice. After téazing him for some time, by pretending not to understand his motions, we gave him some silver, more I believe than he expected, for at the sight of it his eyes sparkled with delight.
During the day we met in our walks, in almost every street, processions of monks carrying crosses and images, and followed by crowds of people praying vociferously. Every one was obliged to uncover his head as they passed, and we did as Rome did. When we were released for a moment from the din occasioned by these religious exercises, our ears were saluted by the rattling of dice and -billiard balls in the adjacent houses. These and other games are played without concealment, on Sundays as well as on other days; and the houses of amusement being thrown open, you may see revelling on the one side of you and religion on the other. Surely this is liberty of conscience, and the man must be hard to please who cannot gratify his taste where there is so great a variety of choice; but though fond of liberty, I must confess that I thought it we order these things better" at home,
The province of Granada is more celebrated than any other in the legend of love and chivalry, and the tales of austere Moors and blooming ladies. A few leagues from Malaga is the famous rock, called the 6 Pena de los Enamerandos" (Pena de los Enamorados : the Lover's Rock) which derives its name from an incident very far superior to the Leucadian leap of Sappho. A young knight was taken in battle by the Moorish king of Granada, and held in captivity. 'Posi sessed of an interesting person, amiable manners, and insinuating address, these qualities added to his prowess, procured him the friendship of the king, who released him from slavery, made hind his frind, and entertained him at his court. The Moor had an only daughter, between whom and the gallant Spaniard a reciprocal affection arose :--
« She loved him for the dangers he had past.' .': And he loved her that she did pity them.""
Being unable to conceal their tender meetings, they resolved upon quitting Granada, and uniting them.. selves to the Christians. They were soon pursued... the Moors, invigorated by hope and fear, had already overtaken and surrounded them, when the lovers rushing into each others arms, and throwing themselves from the precipice, closed their sorrows and their lives together, and gave a name to the Pena de los Ename. randos.
.! ANECDOTE AND WIT..
No, 16.--THE ABBE DE VATTEVILLE. THE adventures of the Abbé de Vatteville are singular, but are little known. He was brother to Baron de Vatteville, once ambassador at the court of London. The Abbé, when colonel of the regiment of Burgundy, in the service of Philip IV, of Spain, evinced bis courage by repeated actious of eclat. Chagrined, however, with neglect of promotion, he resigned' his commission, and retired into the convent of Carthusians at Besançon. As his restless spirit could ill brook the gloom and silence of a cloister, he appointed a confidential friend to wait for him, with a horse, without the garden wall, and secretly procured of his relations some money, a ridirg dress, a case of pistols, and a sword. Thus equipped, he stole, during the night, from his cell into the garden, stabbed the prior, whom he met on his way, scrambled over the wall, and rude off at full speed. When his horse could advance no further, from fatigue and hunger, he alighted at an obscare inn, ordered all the meat in the house to be got ready, and sat down to dinner with the utmost composure. A traveller, who arrived a few minutes later. politely requested that he might be allowed to share with him. Yatteville rudely refused, alleging that there was little enough for himself, and, impatient of contradiction, killed the gentleman on the spot with one pistol, and presenting the other tu the landlady and waiter, swore he would blow out their brains if they once dared to interrupt his repast. Having thus escaped with impunity, he encountered various