church, which commands a magnificent view. It was refreshing to the spirits, as well as delightful to the eye, to contemplate the rich and glowing plains of Lombardy, stretched out like a vast garden, bounded by the Alps and Appenines, blue as the sky that canopied them; while the spiral pinnacles, with their delicate tracery, and the multitude of statues, all white as the snow that still capped the highest points of the Alps, afforded a striking and beautiful contrast to the glorious landscape: Art and Nature both displaying their wonders,

Went to-day to Santa Maria Delle Grazie, in the refectory of which is the celebrated fresco of the Last Supper, by Leonardo da Vinci. Injured as this picture is by time, it still bears evidence of the wondrous power of that great master; and, alas! also of the barbarity of the monks, who had a door cut through it, for the convenience of having their repasts served by a shorter route from the kitchen. What renders this profanation still more sacrilegious is, that the door has been made through the legs of our Saviour! The heads of Christ and St. John even now, faded as they are, retain their divine expression, and attest the skill of Leonardo.

Went over the palace of the Archduke to-day, erected as a residence for Prince Eugène Beauhar

nois, whose memory is still fondly cherished at Milan. The apartments are numerous and fine, and the staircase admirable. The ceilings, and many of the rooms owe their decoration to a Milanese artist, named Appiani, whose productions, if not in the purest taste, are at least striking and effective. In one of his frescos, the Assembly of the Gods, the head of the Emperor Napoleon has been given to Jove, and the likeness is well preserved.

Prince Eugene Beauharnois was a liberal patron, as well as a good connoisseur, of the fine arts, which made a rapid progress towards perfection, during his government of Milan, and the artists still remember with gratitude the protection and encouragement which he afforded them. This encouragement was the more praiseworthy, when his great admiration for the works of the old masters, was taken into consideration.

The whole family of Beauharnois have had the happy art of making themselves beloved wherever they have resided; an art, the consequences of which outlive the power confessed, even by their enemies, to have always been exercised with justice and humanity. The strong affection inspired by the Empress Josephine in the breasts of all who ap

proached her, is universally allowed, and her daughter, the ex-Queen of Holland, even in the seclusion to which she has retired, is followed by the attachment and respect of all who know her.

The Prince Eugene, her brother, has left behind him, at Milan, a reputation that will long be remembered with affection and gratitude, by a people to whose happiness he for many years so largely con

tributed.

Drove to the Simmonetta this evening. It is about a mile from Milan, and offers an example, now becoming very rare, of the taste of former ages in their country houses. This is the very one that a romance writer would select for the scene of a novel descriptive of the manners of some two centuries ago, and being unspoilt by any attempt of modernizing it, is peculiarly interesting. It is much frequented on account of its wonderful echo, the repetitions of which are more frequent, and the sounds clearer, than any I had ever previously heard. The reverberations become more distinct towards their close; like memory, which recals most vividly the events of years gone by.

Returning from the Simmonetta, the grass and leaves at each side of the road were sparkling with countless thousands of lucioli, which emitted a most

brilliant light; and reminded me of our pleasant evening rides in the vicinity of Pisa, where these fire-flies abound.

We went to La Scala last night, where was represented the opera of the Ultimo Giorno di Pompeii, the music of which is highly creditable to Pacini; and some portions of it were admirably sung by a male voice with more exquisite pathos in it than I ever previously heard.

La Scala is a very fine theatre, but though said to be larger than our Opera House in London, did not strike me as being so. What did strike me, was the superiority of its decorations and cleanliness over ours; as also the freshness and richness of the costumes and scenery, and their perfect propriety. A severe attack of headache prevented me from waiting for the ballet, and sent me home to try the efficacy of my old remedy of Hungary water applied to the temples.

Spacious as are the boxes, and well ventilated as La Scala is, I found the heat so oppressive that I do not intend again exposing myself to it; even to hear the dulcet sounds of the exquisite voice of last night, or to see a young danseuse, who excites a great sensation here.

Went to Pavia yesterday. The route to it is

extremely pleasant, passing by the side of a clear and wide canal, bordered by trees, that afford a shade from the too fervid rays of the sun, which already is become very troublesome. The Tesino is as limpid, but much more rapid than we expected to find it, from the poetical description of Silius Italicus, with which all the old books of travels in Italy favour us; and its rapidity greatly exceeds its beauty, in my opinion. The vividness of the verdure too, through which the Tesino glides, adds to its attraction; as do also the magnificent Lombardy poplars, which are the giants of the fertile plains casting their vast shadows around.

Pavia, once the capital of Lombardy, though shorn of its ancient splendour, still offers considerable interest to the traveller. It boasts no less than three colleges, the Borromeo, Caceia, and Ghisliero. We went over the first, which is highly honourable to the munificence of the founder, St. Carlo Borromeo, whose memory is not less venerated at Pavia than at Milan. This college, on which no expence has been spared, is a fine specimen of the architecture of the time; spacious and imposing on the exterior, the interior does not disappoint the expectations raised. The great hall is truly splendid, and is appropriately decorated with frescos by Zuc