Great solicitude however, was expressed on this subject by the chiefs. Several of their young men had been educated from home, among and by the white people, and had returned into the nation, completely ruined for all the purposes of usefulness at home. They had acquired such a contempt for the Indian life and manners, that they violated the customs of their forefathers, and disobeyed the rulers. Losing public confidence in this manner, they were suffered to wander and prowl through the nation, without being taken notice of, or suffered to have a share in its government. There was no sinall analogy between these youths, and those of our own nation who go to Europe for instruction. They but too often acquire foreign manners and habits, conceive a dislike for their country, its inhabitants and institutions, and oftentimes mar their own happiness, and turn out useless to the public. So an Indian lad, educated among white people, has never in any instance been known to say one word in recommendation of the wheel, the loom or the plough, of useful arts, or domestic manufactures, or, in short, of any thing conducive to the general welfare. On the contrary, their discourse principally turns on the extravagance in which they lived, and the dissipations in which they shared; but they utter not a sentence on the condition of the greater part of their species, and of the human race who are doomed to live by labour. But education in their own country, of the kind which their state of society requires, and to the degree called for by their actual need, will gradually creep in and be followed by the most salutary changes in their situation.

In many of the villages, particularly of the Lower Creeks, the natives had already made considerable progress in the silver-smith's business. Ornaments of silver, such as spurs, broaches, rings, silver beads, ornaments for the ears and nose, armbands and wristbands were manufactured to a considerable extent. Considerable steps had also been taken in the gun-smith's art, particularly in stocking the pieces, and doing some of the work about the locks.

These are some of the leading features of Mr. Hawkins' mode of treating these uncivilized tribes, and leading them on from rudeness toward refinement. Indeed, the business of civilizing Indians, however problematical it may once have seemed, was deemed to have been in a train of successful progress. There came in 1805 a deputation of eighteen

Cherokees to the seat of the national government; they were all men of property, and lived, when at home, on enclosed and cultivated farms. They were clad after our manner, in homespun cloth of their own spinning, dyeing and weaving. And several of them speak our tongue. I have seen letters written by Cherokee girls of the half-breed, as well expressed, and in as good a hand as our young females write.

I might relate to you what other mea sures had been adopted to instil into the minds of these people more correct notions and practises of civil and criminal law, than the barbarous and bloody policy they formerly pursued. The agent had progressed so far as to take punishment out of the hands of the irritated individual, and inflict it upon the offender by the public arm. And he had instituted a court of law, where substantial justice was speedily obtained by a trial upon the naked merits of the case.

The influence of music was tried with remarkable benefit among the Cherokees, The young women had clothed themselves handsomely, after our manner, in cotton fabrics of their own manufacture. They then were qualified to dance to the times of the violin. Care was taken to teach the steps, figures and gestures of the white people. They soon became active and graceful dancers. This had a surprising effect upon the young men. For they were excluded from the company, unless they would dress themselves in a decent manner.

The attire and the occasion obliged them to behave themselves properly. And thus were their manners softened and refined.

On surveying the efforts of theological missionaries ever since the settlement of our country, it is truly lamentable that they have done so little. Generally speaking, their labours, even those of the early and zealous Jesuits, have been lost or misapplied. Many of our considerate and contemplative men have altogether despaired of either civilizing or christianizing the savages. It now appears what is the cause of so many and such lamentable failures. We discern wherefore, with such mighty efforts, so small an amount of good has been done.

Missionary individuals and societies have begun the work at the wrong end. They have attempted to instil the doctrines of a sublime religion, before they introduced arts and manufactures, and before they tamed man, and made him a settled and domestic animal. And while they proceeded in this way, they either

totally failed, or made but trifling progress -whereas, if they would employ the same amount of capital, and zeal, and talent in humanizing the wild hunters of the forest, their condition would instantly improve their tribes be preserved from extinction; by degrees the useful arts of agriculture and manufacture would gain an establishment; and upon this foundation every kind of improvement might be erected.

Sketch of a Journey to Paris in the Autumn of 1802, during the Peace of Amiens; in a series of Original Letters, written from memory, by a Lady, in 1810. DEAR H.

We left Dover at about twelve o'clock, on Thursday morning, the 26th of August, 1802, and, in less than two hours, arrived in sight of the harbour of Calais, but were not able to land until eleven at night, on account of the deficiency of water. The sea was extremely rough, and the beating against wind and tide rendered our voyage tedious and unpleasant; although, I must confess, I was much amused with the different characters in the vessel, the greater part of whom, were going to see France, and judge of the French, by a few hours ramble round Calais, when (if I judge not too harshly,) their astonishment at every thing different from what they had met with in England, must have precluded all possibility of impartial judgment and observation. When our vessel, which was named the True Briton, made the harbour, we were obliged to cross a great number of others before we could land; this effected, we were surrounded by waiters from the different inns, with lanterns, each soliciting us to go to their master's house. Some officers of the customs also requested our attendance, and we entered a miserable place, somewhat resembling a barn, near the pier; here our names were written in a book, and our small parcels examined, and we were desired to attend again on the following morning, to be present at the opening of our trunks. should here observe, that the weather was extremely unfavourable, the night was dark, the streets dirty, and it rained very fast; the inhabitants had sought shelter in their respective homes, and the town appeared deserted and gloomy. We at last arrived at the great gate, at which we knocked, and were asked on the other side, "who we were,' and "what was our business?" Having received satisfactory answers, we were

I

permitted to enter, and again our names were written, and also from whence we came. These trifling matters arranged, we were conducted by our guides to the City of London Inn; the refreshment offered to us was soups. To English teadrinkers, this appeared rather unseasonable, but we had made up our minds to conform to every custom, and not to make trifles difficulties. The accommodation was very good-a night's rest refreshed us after the fatigues of our voy. age, and we were anxious to see every thing worthy of notice in Calais. The first place we went to was the customhouse, where we were treated very po litely; (as this is not often the case, I thought fit to observe it,) we afterwards. went to the police office, were our passports were signed. The day being uncommonly serene, we were advised to visit the Tour de Guet, a high building, similar to the monument in London, from which we clearly observed the white cliffs of old England, and though the pleasure arising from novelty had made me leave it without a single regret, yet the reflections that a few days would take me still farther from my native land, rather depressed my spirits: but new objects which attracted my attention every moment, soon made me forget my sorrows, and almost that such a place existed. The town of Calais is not extensive, but strongly fortified. The form I conceive to be somewhat triangular; the citadel is large, and secured by fosses filled by the sea. The population appeared great, and it is a pity that destructive war should so much have diminished the commerce of a place, which seems so well situated for its purposes. The houses are tolerable, some very good, the streets wide but badly formed. Many of the buildings have suffered much from the revolution, and some of the inhabitants themselves were sinking under the evils it had caused them. The beautiful edifice of Notre Dame, still remains, notwithstanding the various changes it underwent at that period. In one part, religious ceremonies were performed, and in another was erected a temple to reason. On every public building was the motto of "Liberté, Egalité, and Fraternité." I should now imagine, l'Empereur Français, would be the only inscription, as Liberté and Egalité are unknown to Buonaparte, such a motto must be as inconsistent as the inscription which was printed at the head of their official papers when I was at Paris, viz.

Buonaparte Empereur de la Republique Français." When we returned to

our inn, we were informed that dinner was ready, and we were placed at a long table called the table d'hôte., To each person was placed a bottle of wine and a decanter of water, and a piece of bread, which I thought alone sufficient for a reasonable person's dinner. The first course consisted of soups, the second of roast and boiled, the third of made dishes, and the fourth of vegetables, which are never eaten with the meat. We had afterwards an elegant dessert, and music was playing during our repast in an adjoining room; the charge was three livres, or two shillings and sixpence English money, for each person. I observed in the inn-yard, after dinner, a curious carriage, on which was written Paris-Diligence, though from its appearance, it ought rather to have borne any other name. I exclaimed "I am glad I am not forced to ride in such an one," when a gentleman who was with us, said "that is the coach in which you will proceed, so pray do not condemn it." It was necessary to mount a ladder in order to get into it, thus you can easily judge of its height, the width is in proportion, and there are only two small panes of glass, called windows. Disgusted with the appearance of this vehicle, I dreaded the next day's journey. After having paid a few visits to some persons, for whom we had letters, we returned to the inn, and retired at an early hour, that we might be ready to depart at four o'clock the next morning.

L. M. B.

Suppose us seated in the Paris Diligence-having just left the inn-yard, where we had nearly been stunned with the repeated cries of "bon voyage! heureux voyage." Our party consisted of my mother, myself, the lady to whose house we were going; a daughter of Mr. Smith the artist, a lively little girl, who, to make use of a French expression had beaucoup d' esprit; and an Italian gentleman, who really was a most sensible and agreeable companion, and having frequently travelled from England to Paris, was enabled to point out to our notice, many things which we might other wise have passed without observing. Next, was an inanimate English lady, whose faculties seemed absorbed in apathy; and lastly, a lady who talked incessantly, but I must add, though I do not wish to be thought severe, her conversation was neither edifying nor agreeable. In the Cabriolet were three gentlemen. On the roof was the guide-the horses were harnessed with thick ropes.

The first place we arrived at worthy of particular attention was Bologne, from whence we had a delightful sea view. There was a small fleet of flat bottomed boats in the harbour. It was market day and the town was extremely gay. We remained there near two hours, and observed several buildings which had been much injured by cannon balls during the time of Nelson's command off Bologne. The dress of the market and inferior class of women throughout Picardy, is very strange. They wear large caps, short jackets, and wooden shoes, and a very large gold cross, suspended from the neck. This last they consider as a necessary appendage to their dress, and would make the greatest sacrifice, in order to obtain so valuable and indispensable an ornament. Hunger had made us rather anxious to return to the inn, and after having taken a farewell of the English cliffs, which, from the clearness of the weather, we could plainly discern, and having received a summons from our smart postillion, with his immense jack-boots, we re-ascended the Diligence, which contrary to the name it bore, proceeded but slowly.

We were told at Abbeville, that this town was formerly well fortified and carried on a great trade, but that the revolution had reduced it from its former state of opulence to poverty, and that the inhabitants were sinking fast under the misery which oppressed them. We only remained at this place till the horses were changed, therefore, I can give but a very imperfect account of it. We stopped three hours at Amiens. I was much pleased with this town-it has a cathedral, the gothic architecture of which, has been very generally admired. The city is large and tolerably clean, the streets are wide, and I observed one or two good squares: I was told there were several. The inns and attendance were much better here than at Abbeville. I cannot compare the villages of France to those in England; instead of that air of cleanliness and comfort so frequently seen among the English cottagers, the dire effects of the revolutionary horrors are too visibly manifested.. These scenes could not afford us any pleasure, and pity was, at last, all we could offer, for our charity was supplicated as continually as we passed through them, while each tale of woe seemed more affecting than the last, and though they extolled the liberality of mi-lord Anglois, had our purses been ever so long and abundantly filled, they must have been exhausted long before every petitioner could have been

relieved. Some parts of the country, from Amiens to Chantilly, are very beautiful, others much the reverse, and as few places between the former and latter afford much to amuse or edify us, I shall lead you to the palace of Chantilly, which belonged to the ci-devant prince de Condé. I have heard much of the outrages committed by a desperate mob on this venerable palace. I have also heard that, previously to these ravages, its architecture was greatly admired. The gardens are spacious and very elegant. There is also a Ménagerie, and magnificent stables. But the noble statues as well as most of the works of art now lie in scattered fragments. So much for human grandeur !

L. M. B.

I shall suppose myself just quitting Chantilly, after having received a summons to proceed, and having re-entered the Diligence, and seated myself in due form and order, the first thing that struck my notice after an agreeable ride, through a pleasant country, was St. Denys, about two leagues, or two leagues and a half from the illustrious city of Paris. It is almost unnecessary to inform you that St. Denys was formerly the burial place of the royal family, and has, I believe, been much spoken of in the history of France. The abbey called the Benedictine is still held in great veneration by the more rational part of the Parisians, and they say that the gothic architecture of this structure must ever be highly esteemed, though now in a ruined state. The revolutionists attacked this place with great fury, and according to their plan of abolishing royalty, and every thing royal, they greatly defaced it, but their attention having been drawn to another quarter, it was not entirely demolished, and I should think it more than probable, that his imperial majesty may cause it to be repaired, as he possibly, ere his hour shall come," will select some royal spot for his august remains.

Having left St. Denys, in about an hour and a half we entered Paris. The day was extremely hot, the hour of our arrival twelve. It was the market day at the Porte St. Denys, and the novel appearance of one street, with immense umbrellas, covered with red canvass, ranged on each side, and the noise of all the market women, speaking, or more correctly, bawling at the same time, struck us with surprise, but I cannot say it was a pleasing one; and we thought Paris was not very agreeable. Yet, as a convincing

proof, that hasty judgments seldom prove correct, I very quickly changed my opinion, and when our elegant vehicle turned out of the Rue St Denys we were gratified with a sight of the Boulevards, and a partial view of those elegant buildings with which Paris abounds. I then could only express myself by exclamations of "Oh mamma, did you see such a place? Did you see such a building?" The arrival of the Diligence at its place of destination put a stop to our remarks; and when we alighted we were led to an inner apartment, where we were obliged to sign our names, present our passports, and give a good account of ourselves. Here we were met by Mr. Haines, the gentleman to whose house, we were going. When all our business with police officers, custom-house officers, officers du bureau des Diligence de Londres á Paris, was settled, our luggage was removed into a fiacre, or hackney coach, and we drove through a number of streets ere we arrived at the Fauxbourg St. Honore, but having passed the Barrier, we at last observed the name of the street Rue-Cisalpine, which we had been so earnestly looking for: as the fatigue of a long journey, over paved roads, during two days and two nights, added to the excessive heat of the weather, had made us anxious for a few hours repose. After the necessary introduction, and answers to "what sort of a journey have you had?" we were conducted to our respective apartments; when, notwithstanding our surprise at finding, instead of carpets, a luxury the English are used to, red brick floors, we enjoyed some hours rest, and were quite refreshed when we were summoned to dinner. I thought it was now time to look about me and see in what part of the city I was situated, and in opening the window, I observed a beautiful park, called le parade Monceau, or la folie de Charteres. It belonged, formerly, to the Duke of Orleans, who had every tree, stone, plant, and shrub brought from England, also the furniture of the palace; and as most of the materials and other articles were prohibited, and the difficulty of getting them to Paris consequently great, as well as the heavy duty charged on those which were permitted to pass, the Duke's fortune was nearly exhausted, and the establishment has borne the name of La folie ever since. The palace, at the time of the revolution, was converted into a house of entertainment, and the Park into a public walk; the different objects contained in the latter, could not fail to excite some interest. In one

place are the remains of a beautiful temple, in another the ruins of an amphitheatre, in other parts caverns, and rude specimens of gothic architecture; in a word, every thing which fancy could invent or whim devise. I have taken many pleasant walks in the park; the novelty of which greatly pleased me, although reflection convinced me that the design was ridiculous. During my six month's stay at Monceau, I went out frequently, and consequently saw many parts of Paris. A friend of our's (Mr. Priestly, nephew to the celebrated Dr. Priestly) who had been some time in Paris, accompanied us to those places most worthy of attention. The Thuilleries was the first we went to; The gardens are handsome and extensive; the great walk, facing the palace, has two fountains, the water of which is constantly playing; on each side is a range of orange trees, one entrance is in the Champs elysees, or Elysian fields; and the other by the Louvre. On the right, and on the left of this walk, is a terrace, and a great number of statues; there are also a number of seats for the accommodation of the public. The gardens of the Thuilleries form as fashionable a promenade as Hyde-park in London, and the greatest order presides. All persons enter at one gate and quit the gardens at another. Thus, on any particular occasion, such as the fête of Buonaparte, when the palace is elegantly and brilliantly illuminated, and the trees covered with lights, and the concourse of people almost incredible, still there is no crouding at the gates, and it is possible to walk without fear of personal injury, or of having pockets picked. The police of Paris is certainly very good, and might occasionally be of service in London. The sobriety too of the lower orders adds greatly to tranquility on all public festivities. The palace is a dirty heavy building (I should have said was; as it has been greatly beautified and adorned since I left France) at least, I thought it so; but this opinion might have been formed for want of judgment and of taste, I shall therefore leave the decision to better judges than myself. Behind the Thuilleries, is the Place Carousel, where, Buonaparte reviewed his troops, to the number of 15,000, on the 15th of every month. Here, I have very often had the honour of viewing this wonderful hero of modern times. I wish it were in my power to give you a description of the triumphal arch now erected near the grand entrance to the palace; but I have only had an imperfect account of it myself,

and must therefore confine my detail to what I have really seen.

As the Louvre is situated so near to the Thuilleries, I cannot avoid speaking of it, ere I shall conclude this long epistle. This celebrated palace is now the appointed receptacle for the national collection of statues and pictures. In the long gallery of the palace are arranged some of those master pieces of painting, brought from Italy, and other subjugated nations; as well as those of the French artists. In the hall of Apollo are many beautiful statues. It is fitted up in an elegant style, and so indeed are most of the apartments. Strangers, and particularly the English, must feel delighted and astonished when they enter this palace. Over the entrance is written the "Central Museum of Arts." I paid it many visits, and always felt regret on quitting it. There are several paintings of battles, in which his Majesty shone conspicuous, previously to his being made first Consul. In some, there is a very striking likeness of himself. But flattery, where majesty is concerned, generally guides the pencil of the artist, and in almost all the others the resemblance is but small. L. M. B.

I think I left you at the Louvre in my last. I am almost at a loss to know which place I shall first carry your attention to. The council chamber of five hundred held in the Palais de Bourbon, so called in the reign of Louis the XVI. and named at the time of the revolution, Palais de liberte, during the consulship, attracted our observation. The chamber was fitted up very elegantly. There were three chairs more elevated than the rest, which were occupied, on particular occasions, by Buonaparte, Cambaceres, and Le Brun-I had the honour (if so it may be considered) of placing myself in each of these chairs. Yet believe me, I did not envy one of the above mentioned gentlemen their titles nor their magnificence. The cap of liberty was suspended over the chairs; but all this must long since have been abolished, and the palace, I should suppose, have changed its name. We next proceeded to the Hotel des Invalides. This is a beautiful building, the dome of which is magnificent. Around it are placed the flags taken from different nations, and our guide had particular pleasure in drawing our attention to some English colours, observing at the same time, "Vous voyez, Mesdames, la gloire et la Bravoure Française." There is a beautiful chapel and very good library. The invalids appeared comfortable,