White-fea; by the Georgians it is termed the Kurthenskian-sea, and the Perfians denominate it Gurfen, from the old Perfian capital, Gurgan, which is faid to have ftood in the province of Aftrabat, only 7 verfts from the fea. The name Hyrcanian-fea is as much as to fay the Perfian-fea; for, in the Perfian language, Perfia is not called the Perfian but the Hyrcanian empire. The Cafpian reaches in length, from about the 37th to the 47th degree of north latitude, and in breadth, where it is the wideft, from the 65th to the 74th degree of longitude. Its fuperficial contents amount to about 36,000 square miles, English. 'The antient geographers had but a very imperfect knowledge of it. Some thought it was connected with the Frozen-ocean, while others were of opinion that it joined with the Euxine. Ptolemy, among others, embraced the latter hypothefis; affirming that there was a fub terraneous communication between the waters of both; as otherwise it was not to be explained how so many large rivers should flow into the Cafpian, for which there was not one channel out of it. And indeed who can wonder at the difficulty in which they found themselves involved? For what becomes of the waters of the Volga, the Yaik, the Yemba, the Kur, or Cyrus, of the Araxes, the Byftraia, the Akfa, thè Koifa, the Terek, and the numberless others that flow into it? By the fun alone they cannot be evaporated; there is no vifible outlet for them; and yet the fea is never perceptibly fwollen, except merely in the fpring on the melting of the fnows. They who have recourse to fubterraneous paffages, through which it must flow into the Perfian fea, or more probably into the Euxine, ufually bring two arguments in fupport of their notion. In the first place, fay they, the Cafpian rifes very high in a wefterly wind; whereas the Euxine, on the contrary, rages moft when the wind is at east: confequently the caft wind favours the exit of the waters of the Cafpian, and the weft wind impedes it. But this is a fallacia caufæ non caufa. All the winds that bring damp vapours with them are more ftormy than thofe which come from arid regions. But now the west wind comes hither from the Euxine and the Palus Mootis. Confequently the Cafpian muft neceffarily be put in more vehement agitation by it. 1 "Secondly, it is pretended that there is in this fea a whirlpool, which, with a horrid noife, fwallows up all the fuperfluous water, and difcharges it into the Euxine. In proof of this, it is farther urged, that a fpecies of fea-weed, growing only on the fhores of the Cafpian, is found at the mouth of this tremendous vortex. To which they add, that near to this vortex is a fort of fish found no-where else but in the Euxine. And lastly, that in days of yore, a fifh was taken in the Cafpian-fea, with a golden ring about its tail, on which was this infcrip. tion: Mithridates mihi dabat in urbe Sinope libertatem et hoc donum. But later accounts know nothing of a whirlpool; the fishes that are fajd to be found only there and in the Euxine, we shall be better able to fpeak of when they are more accurately defcribed; and the ftory from Kircher has very much the air of a fiction. Sea-weed grows every where on the fhores of this fea, from Aftrakhan to Sulak, and thence again to the Muganian teppe. * The "The natural evafion of the waters of the Cafpian into the Euxine is therefore an ungrounded hypothefis. An artificial one was attempted by Seleucus Nicanor, after the death of Alexander the great; but, from caufes unknown to us, his attempt proved abortive. However, it is afferted by travellers. that traces of very deep vallies are still to be feen, through which the canal is faid to have gone. In the reign of Peter I. it was that the Cafpian began to be more accurately furveyed," when it was found to be in length about 1000 verfts, but in its greatest breadth not more than 400. Thus, in its extreme length, 'from the river Ural, which is its northern extremity, and lies in 46° 15' north latitude quite to Aftrabat, its extremity to the fouth, in 36° 50' it is 99 25' long, which makes 646 English miles, reckoning 69 miles to a degree. The breadth of it is extremely various. Its greatest northern breadth, from east to weft, is between the gulf of Yemba and the mouth of the Volga, containing 265 English miles. Its fouthern broadeft part is from the river Orxantes on the eastern, to the river Linkeran on the western fide, comprehending 235 English miles. The whole circuit, including the gulf, is 3525 verits. The coafts of the Cafpian, from that point of land which forms the Agrachan gulf towards the weft, as far as the river Kulala in Turcomania towards the east, is all round northwards low, flat, and fwampy, overgrown with reeds, and the water fhallow. The direct diftance from this gulf to Kulala is 170 English miles. On the whole remaining part of the coast, from Kubla fouthward, and back to the gult of Agrachan, the country is hilly, has a fleep fhore, and deep water. Of the rivers that were formerly fuppofed to difembogue into it, feveral do not exift, for inftance the Yakfartes and the Oxus, which were pretended to flow hither from the caft. The chief of thofe that are known to fall into it are the Emba, the Ural, the Volga, the Kumma, the Ferk. the Sulak, the Agrachan, the Kur, and the Aras.-It is related as a friking peculiarity of the Cafpian, that during 30 or 35 years its waters are con ftantly increafing, and then for the fame term continually decreafe; but this story is unfupported by any flated obfervations. Much more certain are the violent and dangerous ftorms which frequently happen on this fea. The ground in many places, not far from the fhore, is already fo deep, that a line of 450 fathom will not reach it. The water in general is falt; but not in all places, particularly not in those where the great rivers empty themfelves into it. The fhores are for the most part flat, and only on the east fide mountainous. "Perhaps the true reafon of this fea remaining equally full, is to be fought in the quality of its bottom; which confifts, not of a thick fime, but of a fhell-fano, the particles whereof touching but in few points, it is confequently very porous. Of the fame fubftance the whole fhore is likewife formed. Layer upon layer it lies three fathoms deep. This indeed lets the fresh water through, but it becomes immediately falt again by the falt water preling on it. Through this fand then the water is filtered, and falls into the aby's beneath, in the fame quantity as it flows into the sea. "In the bay of Emba, above the river Yaïk, the reverfe is feen. The water there is not let through; it therefore ftagnates, and even BRIT. CRIT. VOL. XIV, SEPT. 1799. the the fishes patrify. Its exhalations are extremely noxious. The wind that blows over this bay has been known to come on with fuch surprising force as to throw down the fentinels of the Ruffian forts erected here, with fo much violence as to kill them. "Of the fish with which thefe parts abound, our accounts are not very circumftantial. The falmon, however, are as good as those of Riga and Archangel, and even more fleshy and fat. The herrings too are remarkably large, and plumper than the English and Dutch, but not fo tender. "This fca gives nourishment to myriads of the winged race. Storks, herons, bitterns, fpoon bills, red geefe, red ducks, and numberless others. But the most beautiful of all is the red goofe. It has however nothing in common with a goofe, neither is it red, but white; the tip of the wings indeed, round the eyes, the beak, and the feet, are fcarlet. It is of the fize of a ftork, has a long neck and high legs, is very favoury to the tafte, and lives on fifh. It may be called Ciconia, vel ardea, roftro adunco lato brevi. "A fpecies of red wild ducks is alfo frequent here, which fly in the evenings to the tops of the trees, and the roofs of houfes, where they perform a noify concert. Their fleth is well tafted, not oily, though, like other water-fowl, they feed on fish. Of leeches here are two kinds, the hog-leech and the dog leech. Their holes have two apertures, one towards the fouth, and the other facing the north, which they open and fhut according to the change of the wind. "On the fhore, between Terki and Derbent, grows a grafs on which all the quadrupeds feed with avidity: to the horfe alone the eating of it is fatal. They die upon the fpot. Peter the great caufed the experiment to be made in his prefence, and the common report was found to be true. The Cafpian contains a confiderable number of inlands, moftly fandy; and to the fish above-mentioned we may add the following: the ferlet, two kinds of furgeon, feals, and porpufes. Flux and reflux have here never been perceived. The principal harbours and roads of the Cafpian are: 1. Der bent; which, however, fcarcely deferves that name; and even the road, by reafon of its rocky botton, is very incommodious. 2. Nifovaia-prifian, over-against the mouth of the river Nifabar, where there is a good road of firm fand. 3. Baku; here is the best haven in the whole Cafpian, being full two fathoms in depth. 4. Sallian, in the northern arm of the river Kur. 5. Enfili, or Sinuli, has indeed but an indifferent road, yet it is one of the principal ports of trade. 6. Medfhetifar and Farahat.. Tukaragan and Manghifhlak, have good harbours. The governments of Ufunk and Caucafus border on the Cafpian." Vol. i. p. 232. The author next proceeds to characterize the inhabitants of the various nations throughout the empire. From this part we shall extract a fhort specimen, giving an account of the general tendency of their manners, in fome refpects, referving a further view of the work to another article. "The Ruffians are a race much hardened by climate, education, and habits of life, having their own peculiar ufages, which have a greater affinity with the Afiatic than the European, only without the effeminacy. They fleep on the floor, the hard benches, or the boards placed fhelf-wife for that purpofe; in the fummer contentedly lying down in the open air, in the field, or the yard of the houfe, as they do in the winter on the top of the oven, without beds, or merely on a piece of felt, fometimes with and often without any pillow, either under a thin covering, or in their clothes. After performing their evening devotions, accompanied with frequent proftrations and croffings, before the facred figures of the faints, they betake themselves early to reft, and rife again betimes in the morning, wash themfelves, renew their pious orifons, and proceed with alacrity to bufinefs, Into the houses of the great and opulent, even at a distance from chief towns, teather-beds and late hours, with other luxuries, have long fince found their way. "Whenever acquaintance meet together, their term of greeting is, Zdravitvui! or fometimes, Zdarovui! accompanied with thaking of hands, taking off the cap, bowing, and often with kiffing, which is much in practice with both fexes. Even the lowest of the people greet one another with great civility. Inferiors kifs their fuperiors on the breaft; and of people ftill more elevated above them, they kifs the border of the garment; and, when the difference is very great, they fail down and trike their forehead upon the fhoe of the great man, When they have any thing to requeft, they affume a tone and gefture as if they were imploring mercy. It is indecorous to fpeak loud in the prefence of fuperiors; and if any one happen to do fa, he is prefently chid by the by-ftanders, with Do not bawl! When a man defigns to honour his guests. he lets his wife and daughters appear, full dreffed, who kifs the guests, and hand them what they want at the entertainment. They feem to vie with one another in the profufions of hofpitality. Old age is univerfally honoured. On the breaking up of company, they depart, faying, Profhai! never omitting the validictory kifs. On the flighteft interruption or al eration to the ordinary courle of whatever they are about, at eating, drinking, fneezing, at a sudden ftart, at the fight of a particular place, of a church, &c. they make the fign of the crofs with the fingers, on the forehead, the ftomach, and the two fhoulders, bowing feveral times, and adding, with a deepfetched figh, The Lord have mercy! They have ulually two meals in the day; in the forenoon about nine o'clock, and in the afternoon at three. The family at these times eat all together; and when it is numerous, first the males, and aiterwards those of the other fex. They allow themselves but a fhort time at table, and are eafy and cheerful. Even among the inferior people, the table-linen, platters, and veffels, are kept in great cleanlinels. If trangers fit down with them, there are very copious potations. Intoxication is not difgraceful; and even among people of good condition, if a lady be overtaken in liquor, it is no fubject of reproach. They are never quarrelfome or fcurrilous in their cups, but friendly, jovial, courteous, speak in praise of the abfent, and boast of their friendship; and those that are not able to ftand, find ready affiftance from those that can. On journies, merchants and others take their X 2 food food with remarkably few formalities. In towns and great village. ftations, women fit in the street, near public houfes, with tables, having roaft and boiled meat, fish, piroggees, cabbage-foup, cucumbers, bread, and quas, confequently a fuperb and every where a cheap repaft, which is taken ftanding, and always accompanied with a glaís or two of brandy. 66 Holidays are kept in idleness and wanton jollity. No one negJets to keep his birth and name's day, and thofe of his family. The day is opened by devout attendance on mafs; then the person whose feftival it is, gives an entertainment of the beft he can provide to his friends, who, to fhew their attention to him, prefent themselves uninvited at his houfe. The poor make their mafters and patrons a prefent of a loaf of bread, a few apples, or fome trifle of that fort, in order to get a return in money to enable them to entertain their friends, which they faithfully employ to that purpose, and generally finish the day with a hearty drunken-bout. "To hot and cold bathing they are fo habituated from their earliest infancy, that the practice is indifpenfable. They ufually go into the hot-bath once a week, befides other frequent occafions, fuch as after a flight indifpofition hard work, on returning from a journey, and the like. They ufe the bath very hot, heating the room with large ftones made glowing red, and raising a vapour by repeatedly throwing water upon them; the room all the wh le being fo tight, that no particles of heat or vapour can tranfpire. The ba her lies extended naked upon a mat, thrown on one of the fhelves of the fcaffold already defcribed, which the higher he afcends the greater the heat he feels. When he has thus lain perfpiring for tome tie, the waiter of the bath, generally a female, comes and washes his body all over with hot water, fcourges and rubs him with bunches of leafy birch, wipes him with cloths, and then leaves him to lie and fweat as Lng as he choofes. Numbers of them run from the hot bath into the cold water flowing by, and in winter roll themfelves in the fnow, without deriving any bad confequences from it. "Oaths and curfes are but little in ufe: by God! is their commoneft afleveration. Obfcene and ambiguous, abufive and ludicrous expreffions, are very ufual among them. Flattering terms are in great afe; for inftance, to an elderly man, Batufhka, good father; to an older man, Dec ufhka, good grand-papa; to a matronly woman, Matushka, good mother! which term is even used to the emprefs; to a girl, Dufhinka! my little foul! to a boy, Golubtfchick! my little dove! &c. Good brother is moftly used towards inferiors. Perhaps it may be better made in English, by Good friend! or honest fellow!" Vol. i, p. 368. We fhall thus take leave for the prefent of this en'ertaining work, meaning to add a few remarks in a fubfequent number. (To be concluded in our next.) ART. |