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thority. His appellation of Djezzar signifies butcher. Dr. Clarke saw, as he tells us, several persons standing by the door of his apartment, some without a nose-others without an arm-with one ear only, or one eye." At one period of the Pacha's life, having reason to suspect the fidelity of his wives, he put seven of them to death with his own hands. While the Romulus lay off Acre a disturbance had arisen, in conse. quence of some stones having been thrown into the ship's boat by some of the Pacha's people. Dr. Clarke instantly proceeded to the palace of the tyrant to complain of this inso lence. The manner of his reception is thus related.

"Nothing could exceed the expression of fury visible in Djezzar's countenance at this intelligence. It might have been said of him as of Nebuchadnezzar, the form of his visage was changed. Drawing his dagger he beckoned the officer--as Bertocino trembling, said to us, now you will be satisfied. What, said I, is he going to do? To put to death that poor man, added he; and scarcely were the words uttered, than I, more terrified than any of the party, caught hold of the Djezzar's arm; the midshipman adding his entreaties to mine, and every one of us earnestly supplicating pardon for the poor victim. All we could obtain was permission from the Pacha to have the punishment suspended until Captain Culverhouse was informed of the circumstance, who, coming on shore, saved the man's life." P. 388.

We are tempted, though the extract is long, to transcribe, for the amusement of our readers, the following curious passage, from the account of another interview between our author and this summary dispenser of vindictive justice.

"We found him scated on a mat, in a little chamber, destitute even of the meanest article of furniture, excepting a coarse, porous, earthen-ware vessel, for cooling the water he occasionally drank. He was surrounded by persons maimed and disfigured in the manner before described. He scarcely looked up to notice our entrance, but continued his employment of drawing upon the floor, for one of his engineers, a plan of some works he was then constructing. His form was athletic, and his long white beard entirely covered his breast; his habit was that of a common Arab, plain but clean, consisting of a white camblet, over a cotton cassock. His turban was also white. Neither cushion nor carpet decorated the naked boards of his divan. In his girdle he wore a poniard set with diamonds; but this he apologized for exhibiting, saying 'it was his badge of office as governor of Acre, and therefore could not be laid aside.' The conversation began by a request from the Pacha, that English captains, in future, entering the bay of Acre, would fire only one gun, rather as a signal than as a salute upon their arrival. 'There can be no good reason,' said he, for such a waste of gunpowder in ceremony between friends. Besides,' he added, I am too old to be pleased with ceremony: among forty.

three Pachas of three tails, now living in Turkey, I am the senior, My occupations are consequently as you see very important,' taking out a pair of scissors, and beginning to cut figures in paper, which was his constant employment when strangers were present; these he afterwards stuck upon the wainscot. I shall send each of you away,' said he, with good proof of old Djezzar's ingenuity. There,' addressing himself to Captain Culverhouse, and offering a paper cannon, 'there is a symbol of your profession.' While I was explaining to the captain the meaning of this singular address, he offered me a paper flower, denoting, as he said, 'a florid interpretation of blunt speech." As often as we endeavoured to introduce the business of our visit, he affected to be absorbed in these trifling conceits, or turned the conversation by allegorical sayings, to whose moral we could find no possible clew. His whole discourse was in parables, proverbs, truisms, and oriental apologues. One of his tales lasted nearly an hour, about a man who wished to enjoy the peaceful cultivation of a small garden, without consulting the lord of the manor, whenever he removed a tulip, alluding, perhaps, to his situation with reference to the Grand Seignior. There was evidently much cunning and deep policy in his pretended frivolity. Apparently occupied in regulating the shape of a watch paper with his scissors, he was all the while deeply attentive to our words and even to our looks, anxious to discover whether there was any urgency in the nature of our visit." P. 370.

There is much more to the same purpose in Dr. Clarke's book; but our reader will probably be satisfied.

While the Romulus was taking in her stores at Acre, our author proceeded, with a strong party of Europeans, and with a guard of the Djezzar's cavalry, to Nazareth. We shall endeavour to compress into the remaining part of this article, some of the more interesting of the many valuable remarks which occur in this volume, respecting the natural history and antiquities of the Holy Land, and the illustrations of scripture which the activity and learning of Dr. Clarke enabled him to discover.

The village of Nazareth standing at the foot of lofty hills, is still inhabited by some of the wretched subjects of the Pacha of Acre, to whose mandates an instant and terrible obedience is exacted. The conversation of the Arabs was full of complaint against their governors. One of them said,

Beggars in England are happier and better than we poor Arabs." "Why better?" said one of our party. 66 Happier," replied the Arab, " in a good government: better, because they will not endure a bad one." P. 440.

The situation of the town is very distinctly marked in St. Luke's Gospel. "They led him unto the brow of a hill whereon their city was built." Its modern appearance exactly corresponds to this description. This solitary spot, so

often honoured as the residence of the Redeemer of mankind, is sunk into the most debased state of political subjection, as well as into the grossest superstition and ignorance. At the lower part of the town there is a Franciscan convent, where the friars show what they call the kitchen and fire place of the virgin they have also a miraculous self-suspended pillar of granite.

The well-intentioned zeal of the Empress Helena, aided by the labours of a whole generation of opulent and powerful devotees, has covered with churches, and monasteries, and altars, almost every spot in the Holy Land, which tradition has pointed out as the scene of any of the transactions of our Saviour's life. Helena was the mother of the Emperor Constantine the first. In her eightieth year she commenced a pilgrimage to Jerusalem. The youthful spirit and enterprise of the undertaking are truly marvellous; but activity unattended by good sense, not only loses all its value, but often becomes positively pernicious. As a specimen of the discretion with which her improvements were conducted, it will be sufficient to refer to the structure, to which, for many centuries the name of the Holy Sepulchre has been affixed. The church by which this consecrated place is covered stands nearly in the centre of the modern city, and all travellers and writers on the subject, from the days of Eusebius down to those of Mons. de Chateaubriand, concur in bearing testimony to the identity of this spot with that in which the body of the Redeemer was deposited. The long existence of this opinion seems, however, to be the only evidence of its truth. The fabric to which the name of the Holy Sepulchre is now given, is built in the principal aisle of the church, and "beneath the main dome," and resembles, says Dr. Clarke, a huge pepper box." The pilgrims by

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whom it is visited, are first introduced into a kind of antechapel, where is exhibited a block of white marble lying before the door of the interior chamber-the actual tomb, as Helena supposed, of the Saviour. This block is pointed out as that on which the angel sat; but corresponds "neither with the mouth of the sepulchre, nor with the substance from which it must have been hewn"-the rocks of Jerusalem consisting all, as Dr. Clarke informs us, of common compact limestone. From the account given by the Evangelists of the tomb of the Messiah, it seems unquestionable that it was formed by the excavation of a rock. Matthew, Luke and Mark, mention this circumstance. From St. John's gospel it appears that the sepulchre was immediately adjoining the place of crucifixion : ην δὲ ἐν τῳ τόπῳ, ὅπε εσαυρώθη, κηπος, και δεν τῷ κηπω

μνημείον καινὸν ἐν ᾧ εδέπω εδεὶς ἐτέθη. Εκει εν διὰ την παρασκευην των Ἰσδαίων, τ. Idaia, . T. λ. The name of Golgotha, signifying "the place of a Scull," and that of Calvary, which is synonymous with it, are supposed with great probability to indicate a place of sepulture. The ancient Jews, in common with all other eastern nations, among whom the burial of the dead was practised, constructed their tombs with incredible labour. Of these sepulchres, or soroi, very numerous examples are mentioned in the volume before us. They consist of large excavations, or chambers, formed in the lateral surface of lofty and durable rocks; and of this kind it is probable was that possessed by Joseph of Arimathea. Now at the supposed sepulchre of Jesus Christ, there is neither any soros remaining, nor any appearance of rocks in which such a receptacle might have been formed-neither does it retain any marks of those depositories of the dead, to which we may suppose the place of our Lord's burial to have owed the name of Golgotha. Shaw endeavours to explain this difficulty by saying, that all the rock was cut away to the level of the church, "leaving the tomb or grotto above ground.' On examining this remaining grotto, however, Dr. Clarke could find no traces whatsoever of any ancient tomb. "The sides," says he, "consist of that beautiful breccia vulgarly called verd-antique marble, and over the entrance the substance is of the same nature."

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Of the state of the Holy City itself, its population, manners, and government, we have but little information from Dr. Clarke. The following description of the approach of their cavalcade is given with his usual vivacity, and is no unfavourable specimen of his descriptive powers.

"At length, after about two hours had been passed in this state of anxiety and suspense, ascending a hill towards the southHagiopolis exclaimed a Greek in the van of our cavalcade, and instantly throwing himself from his horse, was seen bare-headed upon his knees, facing the prospect he surveyed. Suddenly the sight burst upon us all. Who shall describe it! the effect produced was that of total silence throughout the whole company. Many of the party by an immediate impulse took off their hats, as if entering a church, without being sensible of so doing. The Greeks and Catholics shed torrents of tears, and presently beginning to cross themselves with unfeigned devotion, asked if they might be permitted to take off the covering from their feet, and proceed bare-footed to the Holy Sepulchre. We had not been prepared for the grandeur of the spectacle which the city alone exhibited. Instead of a wretched and ruined town, by some described as the desolated remnant of Jerusalem, we beheld, as it were, a flourishing and stately metropolis; presenting a magnificent assemblage of VOL. I. New Series.

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domes, towers, palaces, churches, and monasterics; all of which, glittering in the sun's rays, shone with inconceivable splendour, As we drew near, our whole attention was engrossed by its noble and interesting appearance. The lofty hills whereby it is surrounded, give to the city itself an appearance of elevation inferior to that which it really possesses." P. 525.

At Jerusalem our travellers were well lodged, and very hospitably entertained, by the Franciscan friars of the convent of St. Salvador. These guardians of the Holy Sepulchre ap pear to enjoy a very sufficient proportion of the luxuries and comforts of life. Dr. Clarke and his company were regaled, in addition to the more substantial requisites of a good supper, with tea, (on which, by the way, he pronounces a cordial and well-merited eulogy,) lemonade, coffee, and "some bottles of Noyau." The last article appears to be in great demand at Jerusalem.

The manufactures of the place, or at least such as Dr. Clarke saw, consisted of beads, crosses, shells, rosaries, &c. Of their rosaries and amulets, some were wrought of the black fetid* limestone of the lake Asphaltites: it is worn in the East as a charm against the plague. The streets of Jerusalem are narrow, and the houses lofty, their lower stories having no windows. The bazars, or shops, are mean, poor, and unwholesome: the rapacity of the Turks had effectually prevented the exposure of any valuable articles for sale. The city is inhabited by a confused tribe of Christians, Jews and Mahometans: and they are generally listless and ignorant. The mosque of Omar, erected in the seventh century, by the Caliph of that name, on the site of the temple of Solomon, forms a most magnificent pile, superior, in the opinion of Dr. Clarke, to the mosque of Saint Sophia, in Constantinople. It is never opened to the profane gaze of Christians; nor could our author obtain from the governor, even through the interest of Djezzar Pacha's interpreter, permission to enter it. The Greek and Armenian convents are large and splendid. In the appearance of the latter every thing is oriental. "The Patriarch," says Dr. Clarke, “makes his appearance in a flowing vest of silk, instead of a monkish habit, and every thing around him bears the character of eastern magnificence. He receives his visitors in regal stateliness, sitting amidst clouds of incense, and regaling them with all the luxuries of a Persian court."

Few objects in the neighbourhood of Jerusalem are more

"Chaux carbonatee fetide, Hary." "Pierre puante," Lameth, Tom. II. p. 58. "Swinestone," Kirwan. "Stinkstein," Brochant, Tom. I. p. 567. Spathum fric. tione fœtidum," Waller, Tom. I. p. 148.

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