Nor are freshes in the rivers entirely confined to the spring and autumn: it does not unfrequently happen that a considerable quantity of rain falls in the Apalachian ridges, whence the rivers and creeks that supply the Monongahela proceed, during the summer months; a swelling of the currents of the Alleghany and other rivers, sometimes also happens, and occasions a sufficient supply of water during the same period to render the navigation of the Ohio perfectly eligible. These rains, or freshes, however, are not to be depended on, and when they occur, must be taken immediate advantage of as the waters subside rapidly.

When provided with a good boat and strong cable of at least forty feet long, there is little danger in descending the river in high freshes, using due precaution, unless at times when there is much floating ice. Great exertion with the oars is, at such times, generally speaking, of no manner of use; in fact, it is rather detrimental than otherwise, by often throwing the boat out of the current in which she ought to continue, and which will carry her along with more rapidity, and at the same time always take her right. By trusting to the current there is no danger to be feared in passing the islands, as it will carry the boat by them in safety. On the other hand, if persons row, and by so doing happen to be in the middle of the river, on approaching an island, there is great danger of being thrown on the upper point of it before they are aware, or have time to regain the true current. they get aground in such a situation, become entangled among the aquatic timber, which is generally abundant, or be driven by the force of the water among the tops or trunks of other trees, they may consider themselves in imminent danger; and nothing but presence of mind and great exertion can extricate them from such a dilemma.

In case

Persons should contrive to land as seldom as possible; they need not even lie by at night, provided they trust to the current and keep a good look out. When they bring to, the strength of their cable is their principal safe-guard. A quantity of fuel, provisions, and other necessaries, should be laid in at once, and every boat should have a skiff or canoe along side, to land on shore when necessary. Though the labour of navigating this river in times of fresh is very inconsiderable to what it is during low water,

when continual rowing is necessary, it is always best to keep a good look out, and be strong handed. The winds sometimes drive boats too near the points of the islands, or on projecting parts of the main shore, when considerable extra exertion is necessary to surmount the difficulty. Boats most commonly meet with head winds, as the river is so very crooked, that what is in their favour one hour will probably be against them in the next, and when a contrary wind contends with a strong current, it is attended with considerable inconvenience, and requires careful and circumspect management, otherwise the boats must be driven on shore in spite of all the efforts of their crews. One favourable circumstance is, that the wind commonly abates about sun-set in summer.

Boats have frequently passed from Pittsburg to the mouth of the Ohio in fifteen days. However, twenty days is a good spring passage. In summer, six, eight, and even ten weeks are often required to effect the same voyage.

Descending the river when much incommoded with floating ice, should be as much as possible avoided, particularly early in the winter, as there is a great probability of its stopping the boats; however, if the water be high and there be an appearance of open weather, they may venture, unless the cakes of ice be so heavy as to impede their progress, or injure their timbers; the boats will in such case make more way than the ice, a great deal of which will sink, and get thinner as it progresses; but, on the other hand, if the water be low, it is by no means safe to embark on it when any thing considerable of ice remains.

If at any time boats are obliged to bring too on account of the ice, great circumspection should be used in the choice of a spot to lie in. There are many places where the shore, projecting to a point, throws off the flakes of ice towards the middle of the river, and forms a kind of harbour below. By bringing too in such a situation, and fixing the canoe above the boat, with one end strongly to the shore, and the other out in the stream, sloping down the river, so as to drive out such masses of ice as would otherwise accumulate on the upper side of the boat, and tend to sink her and drive her from her moorings, a boat may lie with a tolerable degree of safety. This is a much better method than that of felling a tree on the shore

bove, so as to fall partly into the river; for if, in its fall, it does not adhere in some measure to the stump, or rest -sufficiently on the bank, the weight of accumulated ice will be apt to send it adrift, and bring it down, ice and all, on the boat, when no safety can be expected from it; nor any means of extrication, from so great a dilemma. The reflection here naturally occurs, how easy it would be, and how little it would cost, in different places of the river where boats are accustomed to land, to project a sort of pier into the water, which inclining down the stream, would at all time insure a place of safety below it. The advantages accruing from such projections, to the places where they might be made, would be very considerable," bring them into repute as landing places, and soon repay the trifling expence incurred by erection. There is however no hope that any improvement of this kind will take place at least for a number of years, as the inhabitants of the present settlements and towns, appear to have delighted in rendering their landing places difficult, by felling the timber on the banks into the river, and by not leaving as much as a shrub to which a boat can be made fast. settlements themselves frequently suffer by this their shameful prodigality and want of foresight, as boats on making them, and not finding an immediate fastening and safe landing, drop below the settlements never again to return ; for it would take a flat boat and forty hands ten days to make good five miles against the stream. You must understand from the stress I have laid on the necessity of a fastening on shore, and a good landing place, that flat boats never carry an anchor. The method to run the boat ashore is, jump hastily out, and fasten a line or cable Found a stump, tree, &c.; or hold on till a stake be cut and driven in the ground for the same purpose.

The

Observing the Ohio from Pittsburg and remarking, in the mind its general course, it is bounded on the right-hand ,side in this manner :

1st. Part of the state of Pennsylvania, extending about fifteen miles down the river.

2dly. The whole southern boundary of the Ohio state, formerly called the North-west Territory. This State extends along the river about five hundred miles.

3dly. The Indiana territory extends to the mouth of the Ohio, making five hundred fifty miles more along its

banks; which added to the two former numbers make the entire course about eleven hundred miles.

Observing the river under the same circumstances from Pittsburg, it is found to be bounded on the left-hand ;1st. By part of the state of Pennsylvania, extending forty-two miles down the river.

2. By part of Virginia, extending two hundred and ninety-six miles along a high shore; and

3. By the state of Kentucky which extends to the mouth seven hundred and sixty two miles, and forms the entire distance of eleven hundred miles or thereabouts.

The recapitulation of this is, that the right-hand side of the Ohio is bounded by Pennsylvania, the Ohio state, and Indiana territory :-and-these provinces, or their proper -proportions of them, are bounded on the north by the lakes and by the British possessions in Canada; on the south of course, by the Ohio river; on the west by Mississippi ; and on the east by parts of Pennsylvania, Connecticut, and New-York.

The left-hand side of the Ohio is bounded by Pennsylvania, Virginia and Kentucky; and these provinces, or their proper proportion, are bounded on the south by the Carolinas, Georgia, and Tenassee; on the north of course, by the Ohio river; on the west by the Mississippi; and on the east by the Atlantic seas. On a map, these general boundaries would naturally have to undergo modifications, and be divided into particular bearings and points. By stating them as I have, I only mean to give you a general idea of them. This great river contains near one hun dred islands, and receives as many rivers, creeks, or navigable streams.

In my next I shall examine them step by step. That they may afford you information and amusement, is my most ardent wish; but you must be patient, and bear with my usual wide digression and extraneous matter.

LETTER IX.

Proper season to descend the Ohio-a Monongahela, or Kentucky boat described-Confluence of the Monongahela and Alleghany waters-Sublime scenery--Hamilton's island-Irwin's island-difficulties in the course--Hogs' and Crows' islands—Macintosh's town-Warren's town -Young's town--Grape island—its inhabitants-cause and manner of their settlement--its grape-vines--Georgetown -a spring producing an oil similar to Seneca oil-experiments to discover its cause--deductions from them.

Wheeling, Virginia, April, 1805.

I LEFT Pittsburg just before the water had entirely subsided. The winter broke up about the the tenth of February, since which time, the flood has been seeking the sea with an unwearied assiduity. I might have taken the advantage of its first force, but I declare to you, fond as you may think me of diligence and enterprize, I have no fancy to be dragged by day down the river, by force, nor to bring too against the trunks and in the tops of trees, from night till morning: this is the fate of all those who depart on the immediate dissolution of the ice; on they must proceed, and often in spite of every exertion, or bring up int situations wild, dangerous, and inhospitable. Being conscious then of all disagreeable circumstances attending those who hurry away with the earliest floods, I waited till this season, when the waters run a little more than threemiles an hour, allowing a boat, with small exertion, and not meeting a head wind, to make between forty and fifty miles in a day of twelve hours.

rous.

This town, which is ninety miles from Pittsburg, I reached on the evening of the second day. The water in some places was very shallow, and in others rocky and dangeBut I believe I promised you to be minute: let me then make a compleat beginning. I purchased, for forty dollars, on the Monongahela a Kentucky boat. I must describe such a thing to you, for it is no more like an English boat of any description, than it is like a church. An oblong.frame is first made, perhaps forty feet long by six-