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nal snows that crown this lofty region some of the Alpine summits that were of silence, and solitude, and majesty, visible in the morning. I am sitting in appeared at first view to be white a vine arbour in the garden, with my clouds; but they were motionless back to the lake Leman ; behind the masses shining in pure whiteness un- Auberge rises that range of hills calder a cloudless morning sun. The led Mont Jura, from which we dehigher and more distant summits were scended into the valley ; to the right enveloped in a thin vapour. These rises the village church, with its short enormous masses of rock stretched to white steeple; the bell is at this mothe right and to the left, until the eye ment ringing for prayers; the people lost the extremities of the line behind here ought to be devout-Mont Blanc the mountains of Savoy, and of the would inspire devotion in an atheist. cantons of Vaud and Freyberg. No sound disturbed me in the contem
Milan, 7th October. plation of this magnificent picture, I am now in the land of wonders excepting the faint tinkling of distant and far-famed beauty, Italy! We bells carried by some cattle feeding on arrived here yesterday about 7 o'clock the hills of l’Aix. The sight has in the afternoon, and shall remain wrought deeply upon me. It is most till to-morrow morning. We have truly “ the monarch of mountains," as had hard work of it in passing the Byron emphatically terms it. What a Alps by the Simplon, the weather magnificent theatre for the appulling ac- was so exceedingly bad; heavy and tion of thunder and lightning, and all constant rain and thick mist clothing the cloudy majesty of storms ! The day the mountain from top to bottom. was clear and beautiful; and from On leaving Glyss (near Brieg, at the the heights of Mount Jura I drank end of the Vallais) we took guides, some drops of heightened, though in- and three additional horses to each describable, feeling. There was a voiture. Cervelli was very unwilling scene before me such as no pencil to set out, on account of the dangers could paint, no language describe—it arising from continued rain and imwas a glimpse of the land of magic penetrable mist; but the love of moand lofty wonders !
ney got the better of his fears, and he About 12 o'clock we reached Gex, resolved at last to venture rather than after a long and fatiguing alternation pay expences at Glyss. Off we set of ascents and descents, dangerous before day break, (about half-past 2 enough for heavy carriages and un in the morning,) and began to'ascend ruly horses, as our horses are on ac the celebrated road by the Simplon, count of their entireness. They are one of the most lasting and stupenhot-blooded, and restive, but small dous monuments of Bonaparte's enand slender compared with the Eng- terprising spirit. I can give you no lish carriage horses. Our passports idea of the wildness and horrible suwere examined here. I am now (halfblimity of the scenery. After sunrise past 12) sitting at the vine-encom- the mist began to clear away partialpassed window of our Auberge, at ly, although the rain continued, and Gex, from which I have a view of we had occasional glimpses of the Mont Blanc, presenting his elevated high and barren mountains, and deep and impassive snows, to the sultry and solitary valleys among which we beams of the noonday sun. The still passed. The road winds along the blue waters of the lake of Geneva side of the Simplon, (in Italian Semare sleeping quietly in its fertile vale pione,) a very high mountain, on the ley, so richly variegated with vines, top of which are six glaciers. The and trees, and hedges, and green road borders on the most hideous spots of meadow ground, and brown precipices, and you hear below you, at shorn fields, of which the harvest has an immense depth, the rushing of a been gathered. On the left, part of stream, that passes through the midthe lake is concealed by a gently slop- dle of the valley. This stream is seling hill, on which are cultivated fields, dom visible, on account of the freand a few houses half hiduen by trees. quent mists that overspread these On the right, the extremity of the regions of thick ribbed ice.” About lake is visible, and seems to stretch 10 o'clock in the morning we reached almost to the feet of the hills of Savoy, the village of the Simplon, the highest A thin bluish vapour has overspread point of the road, and rested there for
an hour or two at one of the houses of this colossus. We reached Sesto of refuge, built for the accommodation Calende about 8, crossing the Tesino of travellers. We had some poor fare on a raft. Evening dreadfully bad; by way of breakfast, and warmed our piercingly cold, and dense mist, and benumbed limbs by the side of a wood heavy rains. The sides of the road fire that blazed on the hearth. The from Gravelona to the terry, emair extremely chill. Set off again and bellished with the most beautiful began to descend on the other side, plantations of vines; the vines suphaving left the three additional horses ported by rude wooden frames, and and our guide before we reached the the huge thick clusters of ripe purbarrier near the village of Simplon. ple and white grapes hanging down We passed innumerable bridges, and from the top, ready for the hand of several long excavations, or tunnels, any one who entered into these luxucut through the solid rock. These riant labyrinths. One of my fellow dark hideous passages are among the travellers ventured to alight and pull most extraordinary works of this sin- some of the grapes, but was seized in gular road. One of them is about the act by a most singular figure of 300 feet in length, and cut through an Argus, who rushed out of a thicket the eternal ice of a glacier! But it is of vines from the opposite side of the badless to attempt a description of road, and presented an old musket to the route,-to know what it is, you the thief's head,—the matter was acmust see it. You would imaginé it commodated after a horrible squabble the result of the labours of Aladdin's in good Italian, bad Italian, and ingene, not of human beings. It was different French. This guardian had mapleted in three years, at an im- half of an old sabre sticking out from Dense expence, and by the daily and his rump in the most grotesque mannightly efforts of a vast number of ner imaginable, and was altogether a workmen. We reached Domo d'Os- perfect caricature of armed humanity pola when it was quite dark, so could We started at six from Sesto Calende see nothing of the place. We left and reached Milan about seven. The it at 3 o'clock next morning, and ar- road was not particularly interesting, rived at Gravelona, beside the Lago and the weather execrable; a number Maggiore, about 10 o'clock in the of houses by the way were adorned forenoon. Mist and rain hindered us with paintings of Madonnas and scripfrom seeing the beauties of the scenery tural subjects in fresco upon the at this place. Weather excessively plastered walls; soine of the paintings cold. Rested two hours, and set off very good, but all injured by time and for Sesto Calende, where we were to weather. sleep. The mist cleared away a little, and allowed us (in passing along the
Florence, 15th Oct. side of Lago Maggiore) to see the I am at last safely lodged at Schneibeautiful Borromean Islands in the der's Hotel, in the midst of this beaulake. One of them is covered with tiful city, and its still more beautiful beautiful Italian buildings, and rich environs. The Arno flows within a trecs and shrubs, and is the occasional few yards of the door,-it is the bounraidence of the family to whom these dary ot' one side of the street. I are islınds belong, and from whom they rived here this morning at half-past take their name. Near Arona there nine, having passed two days and a is an immense colossal statue of the half among the Appenines, being half famous Charles Borromeo, upon the a day longer than we took to pass the summit of a hill on the left side of Alps. On both occasions exceedingly the road going to Sesto Calende. This bad weather. It is now very cold, statue is of bronze, and is 66 feet in much colder than I expected to find height, exclusive of the pedestal, it, in this garden of Italy, as Tuscany which is 16 feet; it rises most majesc is commonly called. My usual wintically out of the trees that cover the ter flannels are all put in requisition. hill, and is seen a great way off. It I am just as well pleased now that is reckoned a very fine work of art. I did not go on to Naples, as I once There is a stair-case inside, by which intended. This journey has been quite you ascend to the head. An Italian enough for me, -upon the whole hard author says that a man (not very big) work;-latterly roused at half-past two may sit down conveniently in the nose or three o'clock in the morning, after
three or four hours' sleep. This was a twinkling, and the whole travellers are revolution with a vengeance in my murdered on the spot. habits of life,—then miserable fare I am now in danger of becoming not eatable, to support the system un- perfectly solitary in the midst of thouder this extraordinary exertion. sands of human beings. Vincenzo,
This house of Schneider's is the who came from Paris with me, and most superb thing of the kind I have has been so singularly kind and attenever seen, and is at present filled with tive to me, is obliged to go after his English people. My man, Vincenzo, own affairs, and I fear will leave me has been more useful to me than I can altogether, for he talks of going back possibly tell you,-he has, among to his family in Paris) in a very short other things, saved me a great deal of time. This man is an admirable spemoney during the journey ; for the cimen of the Tuscan character,-were impositions upon travellers, who have they all as good, they would not do nobody to fight their battles, and to for this world. I shall be exceedingknow what is right and proper, and ly ill off without him, but necessity to give no more than is just, are enor- overrules every thing-even the wishes mous, and rascally to a degree that of a good heart. I wish you knew you have no idea of at home. Many this man. I have never seen any a dreadful engagement he has had for thing like him in the lower walks of me on the way, and much has his life. throat suffered in the cause within my In passing through Milan, I visited astonished hearing. I should have the celebrated cathedral there. It is a been utterly pillaged if he had not most superb edifice of marble, of abeen with me; I could not have had mazing extent and richness, but una morsel of any thing, without paying finished for want of money, or activi. ten prices for it ;—the vetturino would ty, or both. There are upwards of not interfere, because he always takes 4000 fine statues disposed on the out, care to keep on the best terms with side of this building, besides a great the Aubergistes. As it is, my journey number of figures in relievo. I think has cost me 17 Louis (equal to L. 17 it is too rich,--such a vast profusion Sterling) to the vetturino,—28 francs of ornament, so many projections of to his postilions,-and about 250 the walls, and so many spires shooting francs for breakfasts, luncheons, wine, up from these projections, and crown(drinkable wine,) and other little ed with statues lost to the eye by their things. The 17 Louis is about one- great elevation, seem to me not very half of the usual fare, but Cervelliwell designed, -but still the whole was returning home, and wanted to astonishes one by its magnificent exget back as fast as he could. Robbe- tent, and materials, and workman, ries are now very frequent again on ship;—the inside is very spacious, and the road between Rome and Naples. is peculiarly grand and solemn in its I say again, because the French, when appearance. How poor is the appear, they had possession of the country, ance of our churches compared with kept these vagabonds in complete or- this, even in its unfinished state ! der. Cervelli was stopped on that even as it is, what a glorious temple road, and his crew of passengers, to- for the worship of God! The knees gether with himself, and servants, are naturally inclined to bend in it. plundered of every article they had, I went to the Teatro della Scala, he lost L. 25. The reappearance of (one of the finest in Europe,) and these dangerous vagabonds, is owing heard a very good opera, the music by to the number of disbanded soldiers, Carafa. Signora Testa (one of the and the too gentle exercise of that finest singers in Italy) delighted me power which ought to crush them : exceedingly; she was the chief support they come two or three at a time, (ac- of the piece, but unluckily was taken cording to their intelligence of the ill, and lost her voice in the middle of strength of the party they mean to the second act, so that the curtain fell rob,) and demand the money and before the opera was finished. She goods of the travellers, and if any re- and Fodor in London, and Marandi sistance is attempted, they give the in Paris, are the best singers I have signal to a body of thirty or forty at a heard. Her voice, intonation, expreslittle distance, which advances in a sion, embellishment, and execution,
were all delightful. The principal modern artists of celebrity. This acamale singer (Signor Galli) has the demy of painting and sculpture has most profound and sonorous bass voice produced some excellent artists. I ever heard, and is a perfect Hercu Among other sights in Milan, I les in figure,-a tremendous looking went to Girolamo's theatre of puppets, fellow, with a neck like a bull, and (le Marionette,) and laughed more features of animated bronze. Six Nal- than at any exhibition I ever beheld. dis in conjunction would not equal You may perhaps think this was the solemn thundering roll of his childish enough entertainment; so it deep-spreading voice; it filled the was. But you don't know it, nor have whole theatre, which is larger than you ever seen any thing like it, nor the London Opera House. The stage any thing so superlatively ludicrous. is immense, contains six hundred peo- The puppets were about five feet (or ple and forty horses with ease. The perhaps less) in height; and Girolarest of the performers were cosi mo (the master and owner of the cosi. This theatre is very like the theatre) was the animating soul and Opera-house in London, in the in- voice of these grotesque images. He side, but I do not think it is well had to speak and modulate his voice constructed for the propagation of in the characters of nine or ten difsound—a feeble voice is not heard ferent dramatis personæ, male and fein the middle of the pit. What do male. He was, of course, invisible. you think was the price of admit- After an overture from a most mitance ? 30 sous, or 15 pence Sterling! serable orchestra, in which there was to the pit I mean. If you take a box neither time nor tune, nor any thing fx the night, and get six or seven peo- like tolerable music, the curtain (on pale to join with you, it will cost you which was a very clever painting) no more. It is not well lighted only drew up, and a little deformed black, one candelabra, and the foot-lights of in a suit of brown, with scarlet stock the stage. This gives it a gloomy ings, and an immense cocked hat, appearance. People there (if they moved forward upon the stage, and choose) light their own boxes, but began a soliloquy, which was interthere were only a few straggling can- rupted by the entrance of another dles in them, glimmering here and strange figure, (a female,) who enterthere amidst the dusky twilight of ed into a smart dialogue with the litthis large theatre. The ballet was tle black, whose gestures, grimaces, Fery good and very splendid. Here and contortions of limb, were amazthey introduce a ballet between the ingly absurd, although perfectly in acts of the opera, and I think injudi- unison, in point of time and Italian ciously ;-it spoils the connection of manner, with the recitation which the piece. The scenery, dresses, and seemed to proceed from his inflexible decorations, were much finer than at lips. Had it not been for a certain Paris. The orchestra is a very excel- awkward rigidity in their sidelong lent one.
motions, when moving from one part 16th Oct.-I visited also at Milan Il of the stage to another, and for the vias C. R. Palazzo delle Scienze e belle Arti sibility of the wires attached to their di Brera, a celebrated establishment, heads, and descending from the roof and one of the finest edifices in that above the stage, one might have been city. As our time was limited I could deceived for a little into a belief of not visit any other parts of this palace the animal existence of these strange but those which contain the paintings personages. They walked about very and statues, and casts in plaster,-the clumsily, to be sure; but then they collection of paintings is admirable,- bowed, and curtsied, and flourished some of the works of the greatest mas- with their arms, and twisted themters are deposited here in a number selves about, with as much energy and of apartments dedicated to different propriety of effect as most of those styles and stages of the pictorial art; worthy living puppets who infest the and there are some very ancient paint- stages of the little theatres in London. ings in fresco. There were several There were two skeletons, who playartists at work in the rooms making ed their parts admirably. They glidcopies of some of the paintings. The ed about, and accompanied their holcasts are very fine, and there are a low-voiced speeches with excellent few heads and figures in marble by gesticulations, while their fleshless
jaws moved quite naturally. Then, to shun detection in this way. They to crown all, there was a ballet of an murdered every passenger whom they bout a dozen of these puppets; and stopped, and buried them along with they danced with all the agility of a the horses, which they killed. They Vestris, and cut much higher than burned the carriages and the bagever he did in his life. They actually gage, reserving only the money, did cut extremely well while in the watches, rings, &c. The public were air. You know the technical mean- amazed by the disappearance of all ing of that word in the dancing-mas- the travellers going between Florence ter's vocabulary. All the airs and and Bologna, for no vestige of them graces of the French opera-dancers, or their carriages, &c. could be found. their pirouettes, spinning round with A celebrated English traveller mena horizontal leg, &c. were admirably tions, that two of his friends, (Pisans,) quizzed. One of these dancers (dres- passing that road, rested near Pietra sed like a Dutchman) stopped short, Mala to sleep. They had a horrid after a few capers, and, drawing a supper; and the landlady told them snuff-box from his pocket, took a she must send two miles for sheets. pinch; then replaced the box, and They observed, in the midst of the set off again with a most exalted ex- poverty and filth of the house, that ample of the entrechat. His partner she wore diamond rings ; and this, helped herself (from a pocket-pistol) with the terrible accounts of the place, to a dram, and then recommenced her determined them not to remain there. furious exertions !
They slipped out of the house before The streets of Milan are wonder- midnight, and, fortunately, escaped fully dark and quiet in the evening with their lives. We slept two nights The city seems deserted ; and you among those wild and dreary mounwould almost imagine yourself in the tains, the scenes of so many murders midst of that place (mentioned in the and robberies. Arabian Nights) where the inhabi The view of Florence from the Aptants were turned into stone. The penines, at eight o'clock yesterday, contrast between the streets of Milan was charming,—the morning clear and those of Paris or London, of an and sunny, but chill. Such a scene evening, is quite striking; the latter of richness and beauty it is not easy full of moving life, and light, and bus to conceive. The country all round tle, and vivacity, and noise—the for- for many miles (and as far, and farmer gloomy, silent, and lifeless. ther, than the eye can reach) is a per
At Bologna I saw nothing remark- fect garden of the most charming deable, excepting the bronze Neptune scription ;-vines, olive-trees, orangeof the fountain, by John of Bologna. trees, pear-trees, apple-trees, &c. &c. The arcades that run along the princi- cover the plain, and the sides of the pal streets of this city are very well mountains, which inclose this beauticalculated to shelter foot-passengers ful place. The country about Bofrom the rains and from the scorch- logna and Florence seems to me the ing sun of that climate. Ever since finest that I have passed through ;we began to ascend the Simplon the about Bologna it is charming, and weather has been very cold. Here, here still more enchanting. The river at this moment, it is as cold as in Arno, flowing through Florence, and Scotland at the same season. My fin- winding along amidst the richest culgers are quite benumbed. Yesterday tivation in the long extended plain, inorning, about nine o'clock, we ar adds infinitely to the beauty of the rived here, having been two days and landscape. I walked yesterday, at a half in crossing the Appenines, in sunset, along the fine avenue of cyshocking weather,-misty, rainy, and press and ever-green oaks, that leads very cold. By the bye, a few years to the Poggio Imperiale, the Grand ago, there was a tremendous troop of Duke's residence. It is a fine palace, banditti on these mountains, near with some admirable antique statues Pietra Mala, at which we rested for a in the court. few hours the day before yesterday. I have visited the Grand Duke's It is a will, horrible-looking place. Palace, (il Palazzo Pitti,) one of the These miscreants had for their cap- most superb residences you can imatain the curate of a village in the gine. The greater number of the neighbourhood, and they endeavoured apartments were shut up against intru