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Luxury of a Gondola.
Venice to admire. The startling Novelty of every Scene. -
Sunset on the Grand Canal. The
Beauty of its Serpentine Line.-St. Mark's Church.
-
65
LETTER IV.
Palace of the Doge - Its Exterior familiar to every one.—
Gloom of the Private Entrance.-The Bridge of Sighs.—The
Prison Walls. Paintings of Titian and of Tintoretto. - Hall
of the Senate.-Hall of the Council of Ten. - Portraits of the
Doges. That of Marino Faliero wanting. Paintings of the
Grand Council Chamber. Antiques. - Library. - MSS. of
Dante.-Map of the World.-History of Venice.-Her Dun-
geons.-St. Mark's Place.-The Coffee Houses.-Late Hours.
LETTER V.
The Academia delle Belle Arti.-The Assumption.-Christ
on the Steps of the Temple.-Peter Martyr.-Canova.-The
Barbarigo Palace.-Convent of the Armenians.-Lord Byron.
-The Madhouse.-Mr. Milne.
-The Campanile.—The Pro-
testant Burial Ground. The Confraternity of San Rocca.-
Tintoretto.-Memorial of the Plague.
78
LETTER VI.
The Statements which represent Venice as falling into ruin
erroneous, the present Government being careful to preserve
it. Unfortunate Circumstances respecting the Foscari Palace.
Excessive Reserve of the small Remnant of the ancient
Aristocracy. Lord Byron not admitted to this set.-Attach-
ment of the Venetians to ancient usage.
119
Chapel of the Carmilitari. The Stillness of Venetian
Streets. Night and Day.-Serenades.-Romantic Anecdote.
-Impossibility of hanging a Criminal in Venice.
derer shot there, because no hangman could be found.
A mur-
PAGE
131
LETTER VIII.
Departure from Venice. The Villas on the Brenta. —
Vicenza.-The Olympic Theatre of Palladio.-Verona.—The
Amphitheatre. Tombs of the Scalengers. - Mantua. The
Cartoons.-Giulio Romano.-Antique Marbles in the Museum.
Handsome Cathedral. Bologna.
Gallery revisited.
Crossing the Po.- Modena. - Anecdote.
141
LETTER IX.
Necessity of keeping to the Highways of Italy.- Dreadful
Poverty and Ignorance of the Roman States. Forli.-Beau-
tiful Wornen.—The Madonnas of Guido and Guercino.-Pass-
ing the Rubicon. Rimini. - Roman Bridge.-Francesca.
St. Anthony. - Julius Cæsar. The Tombs of Malatesta.-
View of the Adriatic.-Villa of Queen Caroline, near Pesano.
-Country between Fano and Foligno.-Urbino.-Raffael.-
Pass of Furlo. Spolito.- Clitumnus without Water.-Ter-
race Road from Terni to the Falls. Germany and Italy.
The Falls of Terni.-Preparing for Rome.
LETTER X.
Arrival at Rome.-St. Peter's. — Disappointment from the
View of the Exterior.-The Portico.-The Church.-Absence
of all secondary Objects.-Westminster Abbey as seen after a
161
viii
CONTENTS.
Coronation.-Promenade. The Sacra Confessione.-Doubts
respecting it. The Monument of Pius the Sixth. View
from the Leads.-Coliseum.-Campagna.-Visit to the Coli-
seum.-Roman Catholic Station.-Value of the Cross on such
a Spot.-Hôtel de l'Europe.
181
LETTER XI.
Star-light View of Naples. A Morning Walk. - Perfec-
tion of Colouring.-Theory respecting it.- Poverty and Filth
of the Population.-Question as to what they might be under
other Influences. -State of the Country between Rome and
Naples. Conduct of a Sentinel at the Gate of Capua.-Pro-
mised Pleasures at Naples. Pastum of Necessity aban-
doned.
198
LETTER XII.
Interest of the Road to Baia.-Grotto of Posilipo.-Virgil's
Tomb.-Nisida.—Pozzouli.—Classic Names.-The Lake of
Avernus-Its Temple.-The Sibyl's Cave.-Mesmerism.-
Nero's Baths.-Temples.-Villas.-Tiscina Mirabile.—The
Tombs of Baia.-Hidden Treasures of the whole Neighbour-
hood.-Indifference to modern Sights.-Museum.-The Power
of Art.
207
LETTER XIII.
-- -
Pompeii. The Mode of living easily discovered. — No
Trace of domestic Comfort. Substitutes of Bed-rooms.-
Dinner in the Forum. Proposal for an English Scavo.—
Strong Impressions.-Grand Duke of Tuscany.-Anecdote of
LETTER XIV.
Repeated Visit to the Museum.-Magnificence of the Col-
lection. Want of a Catalogue.-Want of Interest in the
City at large. Agreeable Society.-Elegant Amusements.—
Beautiful Excursions.. Delicious Climate.-Reverse of the
Medal. Tremendous Ignorance.-Education the only Cure
for all the Evils complained of at Naples.-Anecdote of the
King.-Visit to Herculaneum.-Proposals for a Joint Stock
Company of different Nations to lay it open. Palace at
Portici.-Extract from the Album of Vesuvius.
Nuova.-Caserta.-Pain of Leave-taking.
Strada
234
LETTER XV.
Comparison between Naples and Rome. - Domestic Ar-
rangements.-Michael Angelo's Moses.-The Apollo.- The
Tower of the Capitol.-Necessity of walking instead of driv-
ing over the Via Sacra, and among the Ruins in its Neigh-
bourhood.-St. Peter's.-Difficulty of keeping clear of it.
252
LETTER XVI.
Agreeable English Society in Rome.
zionis. Influence of the Cardinals. Their high State.
The Sistine Chapel. The Chaunt. Frescoes of Michael
Angelo. Difficulty of seeing them well. Homage of the
Cardinals. Conduct of a Party of young English Ladies.
Offensive Manners exhibited by the Second Rate Class of
English Travellers on the Continent.-Indecent Conduct during
the Papal Mass at St. Peter's. The Borghese and Doria
Palaces.-The Farnesina Palace.-The Corsini.-The Sciana.
The Tomb of the Borghese, and its splendid Chapel.-St.
John Lateran. St. Ignatius. - The Fountains.
266
Disappointment in the Borghese Gardens. Gardens of
England.-Necessity of Scientific Cultivation everywhere.--
The unwholesome Beauty of the Campagna.-The Pincio Hill.
-View of Rome from the Terrace.-The English Church.
English Equipages. Numerical Proportion of Priests.
Forests.-Crimes of Violence.-State of Roman Morality.-
The Statu Quo System.-Roman Catholic Sermon.-Roman
Catholic Faith.
284
LETTER XVIII.
Artists of England established at Rome. Their pleasant
Intimacy. Thorwaldson-His House, and his Studio.-Sta-
tue of the Duke of Wellington. -Gibson's opinion upon it.-
Statue of Lord Byron by Thorwaldson.-Said to be left in
the London Docks.-Works of Gibson-His Hunter.- Mr.
Wyatt's Spring.-The best of modern Italian Pictures are
Copies. Of modern Originals, Chevalier de Schmid at Flo-
rence, and Mr. Buchmer, Mr. Swinton and Mr. Williams, at
Rome, exhibit the best Specimens. . 304
LETTER XIX.
The Transfiguration.-The St. Jerome.-Great Length of
Time required by Rome for the Examination of Works of Art.
-Library of the Vatican. -Michael Angelo's Frescoes.—Col-
lections at the Capitol.- St. Paul's Church.-The English
Burial-ground.-Castle of St. Angelo.-Tomb of Adrian.-
Benvenuto Cellini. Theatrical Parties at Prince Tortonia's.
The Colonna.-Presentation of the Pope.-Examination of
St. Peter's. The under Church. Canova's Monument of
Clement XIII. Monument to the last Stuart.—Sir Walter
Scott. Mosaics.-Receiving the Black Veil.
319