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proper to be treated lightly any where. That there is a power to cure the evil, is certain; but that there is also a power able, at present, to prevent its cure is certain also, and how the matter will end, I believe that the very wisest man living would, if he had power to look every way, be greatly at a loss to guess.

But we had vowed to ourselves, that we would not leave Rome till we had visited the Coliseum; and we therefore allowed ourselves, on this occasion, but scanty time to look down from the internal galleries that thread the dome, or to examine the marvellous mosaics that line it. Every thing in St. Peter's is great, stupendous, wonderful, and the mind, during a first visit, at least, is kept so constantly and violently on the stretch, that the sensation at last becomes almost painful I look forward with exceeding pleasure to the idea of revisiting it more calmly.

Nothing but the fixedness of the arrangements, which made the necessity of our leaving Rome on the morrow imperative upon us, could in any degree excuse the impetuous folly of flying to the Coliseum, after having just paid a first visit to St. Peter's and nothing can give a stronger idea of what the Coliseum and its surrounding objects must be, in point of interest, than the fact that every feeling of fatigue of body and exhaus

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tion of spirits was forgotten, and that we gazed upon it with as much freshness of delight, as if we had never seen any thing beautiful and majestic before. How any building so completely in ruin can be so very full of grace and beauty, I know not. . . . neither will I pretend to say how much of the strong feeling excited is due to the imagination; but that there is a vast deal both of pleasure and wonder in it is very certain. What it must have been before the barbarous Barbarossa stripped it of its marble embellishments, it is not easy to imagine .. for the vastness of its size, and the exceeding beauty, so perceptible even in ruin, of its proportions, must have made it, when not only entire, but profusely embellished, one of the most glorious works that man ever reared.... though even then not so glorious as St. Peter's.

I was vexed at the painfully paltry effect produced by the twelve stations of our Saviour's passion, which are erected round the area of this majestic ruin. The neat trim little frames of masonry in which they are set forms a contrast that disgusts the eye, despite all that the heart can say to prevent it, between these deplorable little erections and the towering walls, so beautiful in their picturesque decay, which are crumbling around them. In the centre of the arena is a cross, with a step for passing penitents to kneel upon; and when I saw it thus employed, I became quite reconciled to the presence of the holy emblem,

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VALUE OF THE CROSS.

and even felt that it was well placed there. where every thing recalled the need of expiation. .... But the square little stations do not help this feeling; on the contrary, indeed, they greatly lessen it. If too, instead of the trumpery crucifix erected in the centre a simple cross were raised, somewhat like that upon the beach at Dieppe, I can fancy its producing an admirable effect, and one which every thought and every recollection would tend to render of good and holy influence.

saw,

and I

As to all the thrice precious region around this primal wonder, the Coliseum, I will not venture to say a word about it, till I have had better opportunity to look around me there, than was left us after our lingering examination of the especial object which took us to the spot. . I felt, that I was in the very centre of all that was left of the most beautiful amidst ancient Rome. . . . But knowing this, I actually shut my eyes as I reentered the carriage which conveyed us thither, determined not to see any thing, till I could see more than that hurried moment would permit.

It would be ungrateful to turn away from our excellent hôtel, the "Europe," in the Piazza di Spagni, without bearing testimony to its merits. I think it would be impossible to enter a house better calculated to make the traveller feel and rejoice in the difference between journeying to Rome, and finding himself there. In truth, I leave

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this delightful "Europe" in fear and trembling, lest the contrast between every thing there, and all I am to encounter between it and Naples, should prove even worse than we expect. But the thoughts of the BAY at the end of the journey must sustain our courage through all the evils of it.... .. Malaria and so forth included.

LETTER XI.

Star-light View of Naples.- A Morning Walk.-Perfection of Colouring. Theory respecting it.- Poverty and Filth of the Population.-Question as to what they might be under other Influences.

State of the Country between Rome and Naples.- Conduct of a Sentinel at the Gate of Capua.— Promised Pleasures at Naples. -Pæstum of Necessity abandoned.

Naples, Nov. 12th, 1841. HERE we are, my friend, established at the pleasant "Vittoria," the sea on the left hand, the commencement of the noble Chiaja on the right, and the umbrageous Villa Reale gardens in front of us. . . . We arrived late at night, and then of course saw nothing but the stars, which seemed to shine with equal brilliancy above and below us, the Mediterranean serving as a mirror that reflected both the light and the darkness. . . . But when we opened our eyes in the morning we felt that it was impossible to look upon any thing more beautiful than the scene before us. Though London November and Neapolitan November are as little alike as may be, there was nevertheless a brisk breeze, which made the little fishing craft dance as they approached the beach.... but this only added to the beauty, and when (at my usual early hour) I